Irish Red Ale Raging Red Irish Red Ale

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
So my whole foray into agave started because of stupid high cost of honey. So anyone following these tracks, agave is a good substitute for the honey in the as written recipe, but be aware high ABV may occur. lol
Eric
Using table sugar would reduce the costs even more and you probably wont even taste the difference.
 
Using table sugar would reduce the costs even more and you probably wont even taste the difference.
Or you could invert it pretty easily. If you darken the invert some of the flavor will also get into the beer. Most added sugar is basically to thin the body, or add abv. :mug:
 
I'll be brewing this recipe for the first time tomorrow. I was going to brew it as it's written with the exception of swapping mittelfrueh for the 60 min crystal ( don't have crystal) . My brewfather inventory told me that I had melanoidin malt, but I just weighed it grain, and i really don't. I don't have time for decoction, so my substitution attempt includes a mix of aromatic, caramunich 1, and Munich 2.

Either way, it'll be beer and beer is good.

First time using honey too.
 
What are you guys typically getting as an FG when using US-05?
The OP says 1.010 but that seems a bit low for that malt bill or does the honey really dry it out?

I did brew it in 2013 but I still need to find my notes. :ghostly:
 
What are you guys typically getting as an FG when using US-05?
The OP says 1.010 but that seems a bit low for that malt bill or does the honey really dry it out?

I did brew it in 2013 but I still need to find my notes. :ghostly:
I've made this recipe four times, twice with US-05. Both times it finished at 1.013.
 
What are you guys typically getting as an FG when using US-05?
The OP says 1.010 but that seems a bit low for that malt bill or does the honey really dry it out?

I did brew it in 2013 but I still need to find my notes. :ghostly:
Mine have been estimating to finish at 1.012 in Beersmith especially with the 154° mash temp.

I have a batch in the fermenter right now and FG looks like it's going to be right at 1.012 but will have to confirm with the analog hydrometer. I've been getting 1.011-1.012 for FG's with this. OG on this I actually hit on the nose at 1.058 the tilt just got bumped around as Krausen was forming.


Screenshot_20221206-160725.png
 
Wow guys, thanks for all the answers.
Confirms that 1.010 is not the typical FG.

I actually bottled a version of this 4 days ago mashed for 60 min at 154F and fermented with US-05.
It ended up with an FG of 1.019 but I messed up when weighing out the grains.
I was drinking and preparing 4 different beers :rolleyes:
So I dont know exactly what ended up in there but it was along the lines of #4 more base malt and probably a bit of brown malt.
I decided to leave out the honey as it would be too strong with all that additional malt.
I bumped the IBUs up to about 40 to balance it out as I thought it would end up with a high FG.
The OG ended up being 1.067 making it about 6.3% Abv.
It's also a very deep (but still) red.

Tastes good so far :rock:
 
I have all the malt for this...but the damn online store (whom I won't mention by name here...) crushed it, despite the fact that I didn't pay for them to do that. They refunded the entire order after I told them they screwed up...so good on them.

It has been sitting in a food safe bucket w/gamma lid since April. It did get pretty damn hot this summer tho, and that bucket has been in the garage the whole time.

Should I resign it to chicken feed for the lady down the street?
 
I’m excited about this brew, to say the least. I didn’t read through the whole thread but is there a special water profile for this? I plan to brew this soon with my local water to see how it comes out. Then the second time I brew , I’ll use water that I brought back from a 450 ft limestone well from my brother in laws ranch in west Texas. I’ll send out for a water analysis soon so I have a profile to compare. Thanks
 
I’m excited about this brew, to say the least. I didn’t read through the whole thread but is there a special water profile for this? I plan to brew this soon with my local water to see how it comes out. Then the second time I brew , I’ll use water that I brought back from a 450 ft limestone well from my brother in laws ranch in west Texas. I’ll send out for a water analysis soon so I have a profile to compare. Thanks

I've been using the amber balanced profile with this beer with great results.

Here's one of my previous posts in this thread below. Cheers!

I'm sure others will chime in but I'm using the Amber Balanced profile in Beersmith 3. I've really enjoyed the brews I've made using this recipe and water profile.

Calcium - 50ppm
Magnesium - 10ppm
Sodium - 15ppm
Sulfate - 75ppm
Chloride - 63ppm
 
I have all the malt for this...but the damn online store (whom I won't mention by name here...) crushed it, despite the fact that I didn't pay for them to do that. They refunded the entire order after I told them they screwed up...so good on them.

It has been sitting in a food safe bucket w/gamma lid since April. It did get pretty damn hot this summer tho, and that bucket has been in the garage the whole time.

Should I resign it to chicken feed for the lady down the street?

Taste it. If it's mushy and stale or off, then the bok-boks will still love it.
If it was not at extreme temperature, I would think there would be a much higher chance of it being OK.
Also depends how picky you are with beer. The more "effort" it is to brew, and the more discerning you are about the end product, the less worth it it is to try brewing with the old grain.
 
Taste it. If it's mushy and stale or off, then the bok-boks will still love it.
If it was not at extreme temperature, I would think there would be a much higher chance of it being OK.
Also depends how picky you are with beer. The more "effort" it is to brew, and the more discerning you are about the end product, the less worth it it is to try brewing with the old grain.

Didn't even dawn on me to taste it. I took these grains out of the sealed bucket yesterday to place the grains I'm using to brew today into my Ferm chamber. They smelled great. Upon opening that to prep placing my kegs about 10 minutes ago, it smelled great.

I am picky tho, so thanks for the tip.
 
I entered this in the 2011 Peach State Brew Off taking 1st place. Thhis has a DEEEEEP red color and is big on the malt flavor. Enjoy

Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Boil Size: 5.72 gal
Estimated OG: 1.059 SG
Estimated Color: 15.9 SRM
Estimated IBU: 29.0 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 72.00 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:

Amount Item
8.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)
1.00 lb Caraaroma (130.0 SRM)
0.50 lb Carafoam (2.0 SRM)
0.50 lb Melanoiden Malt (20.0 SRM)
1.00 oz Crystal [3.50 %] (60 min) (First Wort Hop)
1.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (30 min)
1.00 lb Honey (1.0 SRM) (add at flame out)
1 Pkgs California Ale (White Labs #WLP001)
This sounds like a recipe I would like to brew. I once brewed an extract red ale that turned out pretty good, but this one sounds much better! I really liked the red color and the malt profile, but the one I brewed used Cascade hops and they were a bit overpowering for an Irish ale. I'm not a big fan of a resiny taste and a toned-down hop profile is right up my alley. I just retired this last December and am ready to put the Sabco to work. This is going to be my first old-man brew.
 
This sounds like a recipe I would like to brew. I once brewed an extract red ale that turned out pretty good, but this one sounds much better! I really liked the red color and the malt profile, but the one I brewed used Cascade hops and they were a bit overpowering for an Irish ale. I'm not a big fan of a resiny taste and a toned-down hop profile is right up my alley. I just retired this last December and am ready to put the Sabco to work. This is going to be my first old-man brew.
It's really good, the hops definitely aren't overpowering. I think you'll really like it, it's one of my favorite recipes I've brewed from this site.
 
I entered this in the 2011 Peach State Brew Off taking 1st place. Thhis has a DEEEEEP red color and is big on the malt flavor. Enjoy

Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Boil Size: 5.72 gal
Estimated OG: 1.059 SG
Estimated Color: 15.9 SRM
Estimated IBU: 29.0 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 72.00 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:

Amount Item
8.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)
1.00 lb Caraaroma (130.0 SRM)
0.50 lb Carafoam (2.0 SRM)
0.50 lb Melanoiden Malt (20.0 SRM)
1.00 oz Crystal [3.50 %] (60 min) (First Wort Hop)
1.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (30 min)
1.00 lb Honey (1.0 SRM) (add at flame out)
1 Pkgs California Ale (White Labs #WLP001)
Is there a way to change the recipe and make it so I plan to have 6g Into fermenter so I can basically hoping to keg 5.5g? Not sure how to do this. New to all this
 
Is there a way to change the recipe and make it so I plan to have 6g Into fermenter so I can basically hoping to keg 5.5g? Not sure how to do this. New to all this
The right way to do it is to input the recipe into a brewing recipe software and scale it that way, because hops don't scale linearly. But withsuch a small gap between the original recipe and your target, just using 10% more of everything will probably work just as well. The differences between your system and the author's will likely result in you being off by that much in some respect anyway. Brewing software will help you to learn how your system works (boiloff rates, mash efficiency, etc) and to adjust for how your individual system works so you can come closer to a recipes intended result. But whatever you do, it'll still be beer, so relax, don't worry and have a homebrew.
 
The right way to do it is to input the recipe into a brewing recipe software and scale it that way, because hops don't scale linearly. But withsuch a small gap between the original recipe and your target, just using 10% more of everything will probably work just as well. The differences between your system and the author's will likely result in you being off by that much in some respect anyway. Brewing software will help you to learn how your system works (boiloff rates, mash efficiency, etc) and to adjust for how your individual system works so you can come closer to a recipes intended result. But whatever you do, it'll still be beer, so relax, don't worry and have a homebrew.
What software do you recommend. I'll have to buy/download one and look it over.
 
New and got brewfather app. Trying to put this recipe in as it's written 5g batch. The grains and hops. I'm getting 18srm. What the heck am I doing wrong lol

I got it to be closer 14.5SRM if i edit the color of the grains to what was posted in app. problem with that if i look at my local store morebeer. the options for grain got me at 18. looking for a nice bright red color. not a brownish....
 
Last edited:
I'm getting super close to having all my equipment. I want to have this recipe on hand. Where is the best place online to order all the grains and hops. When I try to learn brewfather app it shows this recipe as way darker in color. But I want a nice red color. So wondering where everybody orders the grains. So I can have it all here.
 
I'm getting super close to having all my equipment. I want to have this recipe on hand. Where is the best place online to order all the grains and hops. When I try to learn brewfather app it shows this recipe as way darker in color. But I want a nice red color. So wondering where everybody orders the grains. So I can have it all here.
This is a great recipe and makes a delicious beer. I would recommend you support your local shop if you have one nearby, especially for the liquid yeast. But if you don't have one close by then MoreBeer or Williams (both are in California), offer decent prices and fast and free shipping if you hit their minimums - at least $59 for MoreBeer and at least $99 for Williams.

How dark are you talking about? I've brewed this a number of times, often tweaking the recipe to see what different ingredients bring to it. My SRM (per Beersmith, and depending on my tweaks) has varied between 14-19, but always looks quite red without looking too dark. Given time to clear it's a beautiful looking beer. Also, through my tweaking of this recipe I've learned I can still make a good tasting beer, but it's never as good as when I follow the OP's recipe, but just scaled to my set up.
 
Last edited:
This is a great recipe and makes a delicious beer. I would recommend you support your local shop if you have one nearby, especially for the liquid yeast. But if you don't have one close by then MoreBeer or Williams (both are in California), offer decent prices and fast and free shipping if you hit their minimums - at least $59 for MoreBeer and at least $99 for Williams.

How dark are you talking about? I've brewed this a number of times, often tweaking the recipe to see what different ingredients bring to it. My SRM (per Beersmith, and depending on my tweaks) has varied between 14-19, but always looks quite red without looking too dark. Given time to clear it's a beautiful looking beer. Also, through my tweaking I've learned I can make a good tasting beer, but never as good as when I follow the original recipe, but scaled to my set up.
morebeer is 20 min from me... Shopping online if i remember correctly Brewfather app according whats on morebeers site had the SRM at 18-19 i think the recipe he posted said 15? i dont remember..
 
Personally I wouldn't be overly concerned with a difference of 3 SRM (original recipe by the OP is listed as 16 SRM). But if you want to I suppose you can always take a closer at the different maltsters grains. For instance Briess lists their 2-Row SRM as 5.3 while Rahr list theirs with a range between 1.5 - 2.0. Just don't get into the trap of paralysis by overanalysis. Just brew it. If you like how it turns out, great. If you brew it again and want to change it up a bit, do it, see which one you like better. In the end this hobby should be fun, not stressful.
 
and the lb of store honey is poured in right at flame out. or after 60 min when element is turned off..
I pour mine after I cut the flame so it doesn't sink to the bottom and scorch my kettle. Give it a stir and you're good to go. But I think some have even added the honey to the fermenter instead. I just find it easier to add it to hot wort.
 
I pour mine after I cut the flame so it doesn't sink to the bottom and scorch my kettle. Give it a stir and you're good to go. But I think some have even added the honey to the fermenter instead. I just find it easier to add it to hot wort.
thanks.. hopefully whirlpooling it will help mix it for 10 min before I cool it through CFC into fermenter.. or i can whirlpool as i put it through CFC and once cool pump to fermenter. I guess two ways. I always planned or pictured myself going through CFC and right into fermenter instead of cooling through CFC and back into kettle until pitching temp then pumping to fermenter.....
 
I pour mine after I cut the flame so it doesn't sink to the bottom and scorch my kettle. Give it a stir and you're good to go. But I think some have even added the honey to the fermenter instead. I just find it easier to add it to hot wort.
Also is this batch for 5g into fermenter or 5.5g and 5g kegged or finished? Trying to fill out the brewfather app to see what it inputs for me.

I plan to have 5.5 in fermenter so after testing gravity and sampling I can keg a full 5g in my new kegs
 
Last edited:
The OP lists his batch size as 5.5 gallons, which would be the amount into the fermenter. This should give you approximately 5 gallons into the keg. Over several batches you'll be able to tweak all your measurements along the way to account for your particular system and preferences.
 
Back
Top