• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Racked too soon?

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

petdocvmd

Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
6
Reaction score
1
Location
Reading
Well, it's been 15 years sonce I last brewed, but I finally got things together and started again. After a decent but nondescript extrtact brew, I dove back into all grain. I started with a simple book recipe for aa 5 gallon batch of an American Amber Ale, using 2-row as base, some home-toasted malt, and a single infusion mash. My water is high in bicarbonate, so I lime-slaked, decanted, and added enough CaSO4 and CaCl2 to bring calcium back up to ~ 50ppm.

The mash was supposed to be at 154F for 60 min, but after strike it leveled at about 148 despite pre-heating the tun (5 gallon Gott cooler). I added boiling water to the limit of the tun and got it to 152F. After an hour, I vorlaufed then fly-sparged. The pH was consistently below 6, and I stopped sparging when SG hit 1.010. My post-boil total gravity points were a bit low – should have had 5 gallons of 1.054 (270 points) and got 4.25 gallons of 1.060 (255). I added ½ gallon of distilled water into the fermenter to achieve receipe OSG of 1.054.

Yeast was California Ale – a 1L starter at high krausen. I pitched with both wort and starter at 70F (room temp), aerated, then (per recipe directions) placed in my fermentation chamber at 65F. Within 24 hours it was cranking – blew through the airlock, etc. This continued for a few days, slowed, and by a week it was barely bubbling and the krausen had disappeared. At this point the recipe called for the fermentation temp to be increased to 68-70F and held for another week.

Here's where I made a mistake. I somehow interpreted this to mean that I should also rack to secondary. I did so through a pre-boiled grain bag to filter, and the beer looked great (and tasted pretty good, too). However the gravity was 1.024, far above the expected FG of 1.014. Of course I should have checked it several days in a row and racked only when it stabilized, so I have no way of knowing if it was stopped or still progressing slowly.

I peeked in on it this morning (12 hrs post secondary and at 69F) and there is a teeny bit of stuff collecting on the surface, and the sanitizer levels in the airlock have changed – but no real bubbling in the few minutes I observed.

Guess I am looking for a little “hand holding” here. Is this just par for the course, and should I just sit tight and monitor gravity this week? Or did I screw up enough to warrant being proactive: try to rouse the yeast (higher temp, shaking, DME)? Try Beano? Yeast nutrient? More yeast?

Thoughts on whether my issues with mashing temp could be causing reduced attenuation because of incomplete conversion? I'm building a 50 QT rectangular cooler mash tun for future batches so that I have more leeway for step infusions, and coupled with experience it should allow me to hit my mash temps more accurately.

Your thoughts and comments are appreciated.

Scott
 
There should be enoughb yeast in suspension to continue fermenting. Just might take a bit to get their numbers back up. I find the airlock levels usually change when the yeast starts to do its thing. It always creates negative pressure before the CO2 starts spilling out. I would advise to just skip secondaries from here on out
 
sounds like you moved it too soon. A lot of us do not use secondaries for most of our beers, but i think that has been covered.

While your mash temp was a bit low for the beginning of the mash you did get it back up to a more appropriate level for the style. Your mash temps shouldn't cause issue with fermentation, in fact with the lower temps you should get a slightly lower FG than expected.

As for the post boil gravity it looks like your mash efficiency was a bit lower than the recipe was designed for. This is something that you will get a better feel for as you do a few more AG batches and can start to adjust the recipes to fit your system.

I think I would let it ride for a few days and then take a reading. If it has dropped let it sit, if it is stable you could pitch some more yeast and let them finish it out. I would think there would be enough yeast in there to finish it off a few more points.
 
I appreciate the replies. This is actually the first beer I've ever racked to a secondary. I did it because I was fretting about having poorly transferred the wort from the kettle to the fermenter. I'd decided to use a steel scouring pad at the inlet of my keggle, but apparently during whirlpooling I dislodged it. A fair bit of crud flowed in before I realized what had happened, and I ended up (slowly ugh) straining the remainder through a funnel/strainer. I should have not worried, but instead had a homebrew :drunk:

Yes, my efficiency calculated to 65%. I'm going to try batch sparging with the new 50 qt Coleman cooler next batch. The other major variable is my water - if efficiency remains low I might try R.O. water with salt additions. I've also added a pH meter and refractometer to my wish list :D

Airlock levels this morning did seem to indicate a negative change in pressure, and I do think I was seeing activity on the surface, so fingers crossed. I'll check gravity over this week and try not to worry ;-)

Thanks,

Scott
 
Update:

I sampled the beer tonight and the SG had dropped from 1.024 to 1.020 over the 24 hrs since racking :mug:

FG is actually supposed to be 1.012. We'll see what a week brings.

Thanks again for your help!

Scott
 
I would leave it for at least a week before checking it. Stop opening up and messing with it. Let it be for a while, otherwise you invite infection.

When I transfer from the kettle to my primary, I dump the whole shooting match. I've said this a number of times... trub is not poison!
It's ok to add that cold break material into your fermenter. I have not heard or observed any reduction in flavor as a result of trub in the fermenter for 3-4 weeks. I do add hops in a strain bag so it will be removed before transferring. After 3 weeks, that trub forms a nice compact cake at the bottom and is easily left behind when racking.
 
Cider, I hear you. Just can't help I'm impetuous often[emoji5]️. I am planning on waiting a week before checking again. Thanks!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top