Questions on fast forced carbing

[marx102]

I legged two beers on Sunday and hooked them up to co2. Usually I set the psi pretty high 30ish in order to speed up carbonation. When I got home Monday from work I realized that I had run out of co2. Unfortunately I am unable to get more co2 until after work today and my home brew meeting is tomorrow.
So I was thinking about doing the "roll on the floor" technique to speed in carbonation. I plan on setting the psi to the proper pressure so that when they are done they are close to right on as opposed to possibly over carbonated.
I have never done this before. Does anyone have any pointers, suggestions or things to look out for.
Any help is greatly appreciated.


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[reinstone]

Be careful not to get the pressure up too high. I've had bad results from fast carbing.....an astringency if you will. If you are in a hurry....add the co2 through the liquid side and shake That's the easiest way I've found.

 

[duboman]

Put the cold keg on gas at serving pressure until you no longer hear gas going in, disconnect and roll on the floor for several minutes, reconnect, repeat 3-4 times and then leave it on gas in kegerator for 2-4 days, it should be just about ready at that point.


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[Natdavis777]

Best was IMO is to purge your keg, then put your OUT fitting on the gas, and hook up at 30-35 psi for 24 hours. This allows CO2 to travel down the dip tube and contact more of the beer. I didn't like the results of the keg rolling, and was told by a local brewer that can have adverse effects on the beer.


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[Owly055]

Best was IMO is to purge your keg, then put your OUT fitting on the gas, and hook up at 30-35 psi for 24 hours. This allows CO2 to travel down the dip tube and contact more of the beer. I didn't like the results of the keg rolling, and was told by a local brewer that can have adverse effects on the beer.


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I'm curious as to the adverse effects and the results you didn't like............ I'd appreciate it if you would elaborate a bit on that............... Thanks


H.W.

 

[billl]

If you need it tomorrow, burst carbing is the only way to go.

An easy way to avoid overcarbing is to set it to 20 psi, and roll it back and forth until the bubbles start to slow. At that point, it will still be under carbed. Vent and test to make sure. Pressurize, roll for another 15 seconds. Vent and sample. Repeat until you get to the level you want. Depending on how full the keg is, you might have to let it rest between steps. It isn't going to be perfect, but you should be able to get pretty close.

 

[Natdavis777]

I'm curious as to the adverse effects and the results you didn't like............ I'd appreciate it if you would elaborate a bit on that............... Thanks





H.W.

The beer produced way too much head even after letting it settle for over a day. It has done that both times that I tried that technique. Maybe I was doing it wrong... It also felt my aroma lacked after that. Just my opinion though. I am biased to my reverse hook-up 24hr method. Always get the results I like


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[billl]

"Maybe I was doing it wrong."

Not wrong per se, just too much. If you overcarb the beer with the shaking method, it is not going to "settle" over a day or even weeks. You would need to vent it over a period of days to reduce the CO2 in solution.

It is really easy to overshoot with this method, so most people prefer to use slower methods where you have more predictability. I wouldn't recommend it unless you are really in a bind in terms of time.

 

[kombat]

Best was IMO is to purge your keg, then put your OUT fitting on the gas

If you're talking about ball-lock Corny kegs, note that the posts and quick-disconnect fittings are NOT interchangeable. If you connect your gas QD to the liquid post of the keg, you will have a hell of a time getting it off, and will very likely damage one or the other in the process.

 

[Natdavis777]

If you're talking about ball-lock Corny kegs, note that the posts and quick-disconnect fittings are NOT interchangeable. If you connect your gas QD to the liquid post of the keg, you will have a hell of a time getting it off, and will very likely damage one or the other in the process.

I have to unscrew the grey disconnect and screw on a black disconnect for this method. Def not trying to force the wrong QD on the wrong side.


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