Questions about the Dry Yeast FAQ

[orangehero]

I haven't really seen any brainwashing that you need liquid yeast to make the best beer (for certain styles). For American beer styles that require flavor neutral yeast then US-05/WLP001 are essentially interchangable...all else being equal there's no issue with using US-05. There are plenty of commercial breweries that use dry yeast. I don't know that it necessarily costs much less to do so.

You don't need to buy liquid yeast and make a starter if you're making similar styles that require the same yeast...then you can just repitch from one batch to another.

 

[boydster]

You'll notice slight differences between 001 and 05. 05 has a bit of a narrower temperature window for my taste, for instance, but if you keep it in the 65-68 range it tastes very clean. If you can control temps lower, Nottingham is also great for clean ales, but you want to ferment at 60 or even a few degrees cooler to keep it neutral.

Great beer can be, and is, made using dry yeast. Liquid yeast offers a huge benefit in terms of variety. I don't hold one in any higher regard than the other. They are both tools to have in your toolbelt so you can use whichever makes the most sense for the beer you want to make.

 

[aking]

Thanks for the replies. I pitched a rehydrated pack of US-05 in 5 gallons of 1.067 O.G. wort as a test batch on Saturday. Its been going nutzo at 66f and took of in less than 10 hrs. If all goes well I will have a nice alternative to $7 liquid vials and starters when brewing American ales.

***UPDATE*** The US-05 took the wort down do 1.015 which is good considering the fact that the mash was at 153-154. I used it in a batch of my West Coast Imperial Red and I am very satisfied with the taste as well. I am not sure if it was random or not, but the yeast seemed to create a cake that was much more compact, solid, and sticky compared to WLP001. The cake made it much easier to rack off of and maximize the volume going into in the keg.

 

[Boots1216]

How bad did I mess up by not cooling my rehydrated yeast slurry to match the wort temperature? I do not know what the yeast slurry temp was but the wort temp was about 64f. I used 100f water to rehydrate the yeast, and followed all other instructions. So the slurry had sat for about 1/2 hour at room temp prior to pitching.

 

[sweetcell]

How bad did I mess up by not cooling my rehydrated yeast slurry to match the wort temperature?

don't worry about it. i've done this without issue. it's better to acclimatize the yeast, but they'll rally.

 

[Titleist3]

I'm a noob. I've only brewed two beers so far. First one used a package of Danstar Nottingham, and the second one used Fermentis US-05. The Nottingham package was very firm, but the US-05 package was rather soft, especially compared to the Nottingham. When looking at the Fermentis web site for instructions on rehydrating, I noticed in their FAQ and in other places that they say to not use soft sachets. Concerned that I had a 'soft sachet', I ran out to my LHBS to pick up a new packet of US-05. The new packet was only slightly firmer than the one that came with my beer kit. The LHBS employee told me that the Fermentis packes were always like this. Both US-05 packets had use-by dates sometime in 2016, so both were rather fresh. I pitched the one frm the LHBS and saved the one from my kit.

I'm hoping the worst cases is that I spent 45 min driving back and forth to the LHBS and $3.69 on an extra package of yeast, and got some peace of mind in the process.

So, how do you tell if you have a 'soft sachet' of Fermentis dry yeast? It seems that it's generally softer than a packet on Danstar Nottingham, but how soft is too soft? Adding this to the FAQ here might same some other noob from a long drive to their LHBS on brew day.

 

[boydster]

I'm a noob. I've only brewed two beers so far. First one used a package of Danstar Nottingham, and the second one used Fermentis US-05. The Nottingham package was very firm, but the US-05 package was rather soft, especially compared to the Nottingham. When looking at the Fermentis web site for instructions on rehydrating, I noticed in their FAQ and in other places that they say to not use soft sachets. Concerned that I had a 'soft sachet', I ran out to my LHBS to pick up a new packet of US-05. The new packet was only slightly firmer than the one that came with my beer kit. The LHBS employee told me that the Fermentis packes were always like this. Both US-05 packets had use-by dates sometime in 2016, so both were rather fresh. I pitched the one frm the LHBS and saved the one from my kit.

I'm hoping the worst cases is that I spent 45 min driving back and forth to the LHBS and $3.69 on an extra package of yeast, and got some peace of mind in the process.

So, how do you tell if you have a 'soft sachet' of Fermentis dry yeast? It seems that it's generally softer than a packet on Danstar Nottingham, but how soft is too soft? Adding this to the FAQ here might same some other noob from a long drive to their LHBS on brew day.

Danstar yeast comes vacuum sealed, and as you noticed, always feels firmer. For Fermentis yeast, as long as the yeast looks like dry granules when you open the packet, it should be unspoiled.

 

[Smewood]

What if the kit instructions specifically say "do not rehydrate?"

 

[ncbrewer]

What if the kit instructions specifically say "do not rehydrate?"

I feel that the yeast manufacturer is the expert when it comes to their yeast.

 

[sweetcell]

What if the kit instructions specifically say "do not rehydrate?"

i would call/email the kit maker and ask them why they gave that instruction. maybe there is a legit reason.

any chance this is for a small batch kit? if you're only making a gallon or two, a whole rehydrated pack would be too much.

 

[eadavis80]

I think kit instructions say do not rehydrate because there is room for human error in the rehydration process and they want to lessen the chances their product will be deemed "bad" because a home brewer could not properly rehydrate. Properly rehydrating dried yeast is a simple and good practice and I've never read anywhere (besides kit instructions) that say don't do it. Sure, you can sprinkle your dried yeast on wort and make good beer, but you will lose yeast cells. Best practice is to rehydrate, which is a simple process. If you can brew a batch of beer, you can surely rehydrate a dried yeast packet.

 

[Smewood]

I think kit instructions say do not rehydrate because there is room for human error in the rehydration process and they want to lessen the chances their product will be deemed "bad" because a home brewer could not properly rehydrate. Properly rehydrating dried yeast is a simple and good practice and I've never read anywhere (besides kit instructions) that say don't do it. Sure, you can sprinkle your dried yeast on wort and make good beer, but you will lose yeast cells. Best practice is to rehydrate, which is a simple process. If you can brew a batch of beer, you can surely rehydrate a dried yeast packet.

It has yet to be determined if I can brew a batch of beer! I'll contact the manufacturer and see what they have to say, but I'm definitely leaning towards rehydrating.

 

[Smewood]

It has yet to be determined if I can brew a batch of beer! I'll contact the manufacturer and see what they have to say, but I'm definitely leaning towards rehydrating.

 

[Smewood]

Manufacturer responded within minutes. As suggested above, instructions say not to rehydrate only to keep it simple for new brewers.

 

[banjo-guy]

I'm going to brew mainly 2.5 gallon batches because I can't drink 5 gallons of beer and brew frequently enough. I've been rehydrating and eye balling half of the amount of slurry that is in my Pyrex measuring cup.

I've read a lot about the negative effects of under pitching but what about over pitching?
How much do you have to over pitch before it becomes an issue?

If I were to only rehydrate 1/2 of the pack I would love to save the second half but worry about contamination setting in to the opened package.

 

[drumuglyknuckles]

I practice exactly what you just described with no ill effects.just spilt the pack

 

[TxBigHops]

Great Sticky! Here is a question that I did not see discussed in the sticky or the posts following: Is there any reason not to use dry yeast in BIG beers?

I've got about 5 batches under my belt and I'm pretty happy with dry yeast. But all the recipes for the really big Imperial stouts, IPAs and Barleywines call for pitching a HUGE starter. I don't have the equipment (flask, stir plate) to tackle starters yet, so why not just pitch two hydrated packs of dry yeast? Specifically I'm planning to brew an RIS with OG of about 1.100 using SafAle 04.

Thanks!

 

[boydster]

Great Sticky! Here is a question that I did not see discussed in the sticky or the posts following: Is there any reason not to use dry yeast in BIG beers?

I've got about 5 batches under my belt and I'm pretty happy with dry yeast. But all the recipes for the really big Imperial stouts, IPAs and Barleywines call for pitching a HUGE starter. I don't have the equipment (flask, stir plate) to tackle starters yet, so why not just pitch two hydrated packs of dry yeast? Specifically I'm planning to brew an RIS with OG of about 1.100 using SafAle 04.

Thanks!

There is no reason not to use dry yeast for big beers. Liquid or dry, the thing to focus on is pitching the right number of healthy cells to do the job. Your best bet is to use a pitch rate calculator like Mr. Malty or Brewer's Friend to see how many yeast cells you want to target for your batch. If you hydrate an 11.5g sachet of yeast properly, you should be able to plan on having 150-220 billion cells to pitch.

04 is a good choice for a stout, especially if you can keep the temp around 62-64 for the vigorous part of the fermentation. Once it slows down, ramp the temp up a few degrees to help keep the yeast active to hit your FG.

Good luck!

 

[hawktrio]

TX I did exactly this with my last batch. It is a Christmas Ale with OG 1.091. Rehydrated 2 packs of Notty and it motored down to 1.016 in 2 weeks. I love the convenience and results from dry yeast as liquid does require more effort.

 

[lolznrofls]

1.091???hell yeah..i would probably double pitch also..i do when i brew big beers..i dont have the stuff to make starters yet

 

[Chris_Primavera]

Its been quite a while since I used US-05 but it seems to me the last time I did the package instructions simply called for a direct dry pitch into the wort. A visit to their website gives that as an option, but also provides very precise rehydrating instructions:

I am confused.

My BB Double IPA (O.G. 1.082) instructions said pitch the 05 directly into the wort. I did, and the end result was pretty good.

The Dead Ringer (1.064) instructions recommend a starter, but they are not specific as to application (Wyeast or the 05 option).

Safale instructions say pitch dry or rehydrate.

When I bake, I usually add some sugar to the warm water for the yeast to "wake up" to. Remarks in this thread seem to indicate freshly rehydrated yeast is not ready for sugars right away.

It sounds like rehydration is the best option.

 

[lolznrofls]

The owner of lhbs told me of an article in zymurgy about recommending to rehydrate all dry yeast.

 

[Puddlethumper]

I am confused.

My BB Double IPA (O.G. 1.082) instructions said pitch the 05 directly into the wort. I did, and the end result was pretty good.

The Dead Ringer (1.064) instructions recommend a starter, but they are not specific as to application (Wyeast or the 05 option).

Safale instructions say pitch dry or rehydrate.

When I bake, I usually add some sugar to the warm water for the yeast to "wake up" to. Remarks in this thread seem to indicate freshly rehydrated yeast is not ready for sugars right away.

It sounds like rehydration is the best option.

I've come to the conclusion that it is always better to rehydrate dry yeast. Although the package says you "can" sprinkle it dry into the wort, a closer examination of the manufacturer's instructions always tell you it is better to rehydrate. It is a difference between what you "may" do as opposed to what you probably "should" do.

You are correct in that simply rehydrating dry yeast in warm water is best. The lab-coats working for Safale, Llamand, etc. make a living working with this stuff. I think we are well advised to avoid second-guessing their instructions.

Liquid yeast is another matter but we find a similar situation. The package says you "may" add it directly to the cooled wort. Closer examination shows that it is almost always a better practice to make a starter when using liquid yeast. Again we find that we "may" do one thing but we "should" do another.

Will these decisions make a big difference in how our beer turns out? Who really knows? I just prefer to try to follow "best practices" once I know what they are. But many brewers pitch dry yeast dry and liquid yeast right out of the package and they make very good beer. In the end it is your call.

Cheers!

 

[Chris_Primavera]

Just finished a batch and I understand why recipe kit instructions say to pitch dry yeast directly into the wort. There are a lot of opportunities to introduce bugs into the wort at this stage and making certain everything is sanitized requires attention to detail. So much easier to just sprinkle the yeast onto the top of the wort.

 

[sweetcell]

So much easier to just sprinkle the yeast onto the top of the wort.

absolutely, and this is precisely why some sources instruct you to just sprinkle: they want it to be easy so you're willing to do it again (and buy their yeast again). brewing is easy! anyone can do it! use our dry yeast, much easier than liquid!

however, i'm of the opinion that lowest effort doesn't lead to the best beer... just because you can do something doesn't mean that you should

 

[blackgatebrewery]

My first two brews I simply followed the kit and pitched the dry yeast straight in. This last brew I've followed the advice given here, rehydrated the yeast as instructed, and sorted myself out a fridge with an external thermostat to control temperature.

I checked on it this morning (brewed yesterday), and the yeast looks incredibly healthy and active. Thanks for the advice! Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.

 

[ballsy]

Just finished a batch and I understand why recipe kit instructions say to pitch dry yeast directly into the wort. There are a lot of opportunities to introduce bugs into the wort at this stage and making certain everything is sanitized requires attention to detail. So much easier to just sprinkle the yeast onto the top of the wort.

I rehydrate my dry yeast every batch prior to pitching. I put 4oz tap water per packet (8oz if double pitching) in Pyrex, microwave for about 10 seconds, gets it to right around 90deg F. Sprinkle yeast on, stir in at some point beyond 15 min, And pitch in to wort once cooled to the 60's. Notice at no point do I "sanitize" anything re: rehydration process. I have yet to get an infection. rehydration is really not increasing chance of infection vs pitching directly on wort. Your more likely to infect by t-fer to secondary vessel.....

 

[Greatbreweh]

I've come to the conclusion that it is always better to rehydrate dry yeast. Although the package says you "can" sprinkle it dry into the wort, a closer examination of the manufacturer's instructions always tell you it is better to rehydrate. It is a difference between what you "may" do as opposed to what you probably "should" do.

You are correct in that simply rehydrating dry yeast in warm water is best. The lab-coats working for Safale, Llamand, etc. make a living working with this stuff. I think we are well advised to avoid second-guessing their instructions.

Liquid yeast is another matter but we find a similar situation. The package says you "may" add it directly to the cooled wort. Closer examination shows that it is almost always a better practice to make a starter when using liquid yeast. Again we find that we "may" do one thing but we "should" do another.

Will these decisions make a big difference in how our beer turns out? Who really knows? I just prefer to try to follow "best practices" once I know what they are. But many brewers pitch dry yeast dry and liquid yeast right out of the package and they make very good beer. In the end it is your call.

Cheers!

I have been making 10 Gal batches and pitch 1 pack 05 into fermenter which to all my recopies is under pitching and i get vigorous fermentation for 4 days and beer is great every time.

I am using SS conical and fermentation chamber if it makes a difference.

 

[Puddlethumper]

Your more likely to infect by t-fer to secondary vessel.....

And only then if you are really sloppy with your sanitation.

I've heard all kinds of talk about infections due to transfers and to date have never had one (although I often use a "secondary" or brite tank) and don't know anyone who has. Barring very bad sanitation practices infections from transfers turns out to be one of those "boogey men" that evaporates when exposed to the light of day.

 

[ifearnothing0]

After reading this my question seem redundant , but ... Are there any benefits to making a yeast starter for US - 05 when working on an ipa above 7.0 abv ?

 

[ncbrewer]

I haven't tried making a starter for dry yeast but have read many times that it's not generally recommended. From Mr. Malty http://www.mrmalty.com/starter_faq.php
"Another case where you generally don't want to make a starter is with dry yeast. It is usually cheaper and easier to just buy more dry yeast than it would be to make a starter large enough for most dry yeast packs. Many experts suggest that placing dry yeasts in a starter would just deplete the reserves that the yeast manufacturer worked so hard to build into their product. For dry yeasts, just do a proper rehydration in tap water, do not make a starter."

 

[slym2none]

"For dry yeasts, just do a proper rehydration in tap water, do not make a starter."

*applause*

 

[LJvermonster]

And only then if you are really sloppy with your sanitation.

I've heard all kinds of talk about infections due to transfers and to date have never had one (although I often use a "secondary" or brite tank) and don't know anyone who has. Barring very bad sanitation practices infections from transfers turns out to be one of those "boogey men" that evaporates when exposed to the light of day.

I think the biggest problem here is oxygen, not sanitation. This is just another way to expose to the air and also all the bubbles from racking. Especially if you're making an IPA, I've yet to rack without causing oxidation.

My new method, which is working very well, is I added a spigot to a fermentation bucket at .75 gallons and I ferment in that bucket for three weeks with a sanitized bag rubber banded over the spigot. After three weeks, transfer to a keg, done..

Note, I've hit 8-8.5% ABV so many times with pitching dry yeast without a starter (not wanting too). US05 works TOO well! Mash high 154 and DO NOT add sugars if you want anything more than a 1.008 FG.

Cheers!

 

[Finlandbrews]

The funny thing is that on the safale packages it says "sprinkle straight on the wort" but in their instructions on the yeast they explain how to dehydrate it.

 

[slym2none]

The funny thing is that on the safale packages it says "sprinkle straight on the wort" but in their instructions on the yeast they explain how to dehydrate it.

In other words, either way works.

 

[Finlandbrews]

In other words, either way works.

I was not very clear sorry. They recommend to dehydrate the yeast on their instructions for each strain while on their packages they recommend sprinkling the yeast straight on top.

 

[Talgrath]

A suggestion for an addition to the FAQ: something along the lines of

"Why aren't there more dry yeast varieties?"
Because dry yeast must be made in large batches, so only very popular yeast styles are made into dry yeast because otherwise they would spoil. Additionally, some strains of yeast do not do well with being dehydrated and rehydrated.

 

[BeavStu]

So I definitely wish I would have read this thread about three days ago. I just brewed a stout yesterday and had made a yeast starter with s-04, because I thought that's what I was supposed to do. This morning my beer was bubbling nicely. Capped it at approx 4 pm yesterday. Was bubbling when I woke up at 7. What will this do to my beer if anything?

 

[slym2none]

Nothing. A starter doesn't need to made for dry yeasts, but you aren't hurting anything by making one with them, as long as you aren't massively over-pitching. Sounds like you are fine.

Congrats on making beer!

 

[TxBigHops]

So I definitely wish I would have read this thread about three days ago. I just brewed a stout yesterday and had made a yeast starter with s-04, because I thought that's what I was supposed to do. This morning my beer was bubbling nicely. Capped it at approx 4 pm yesterday. Was bubbling when I woke up at 7. What will this do to my beer if anything?

If fermentation has started as you said, then you should be fine.