Questions about March Pumps answered by the Factory!

[nbolmer]

Any chance for a self priming reservoir for an 809? I see the 750 reservoir, but the pdf doesn't list the 809 as a compatible model. Also, I bet an integrated reservoir for a high-temp, self-priming solution would be great for the homebrew market.

Cheers!

 

[Jhenjum]

My AC-3C-MD seized on me so I took it apart and cleaned it up. It seems the impeller still doesn't want to spin without some resistance in the magnet housing. I put it back together and not the motor runs and fluid floods the head but there is not fluid movement. I suspect the impeller is slipping. Is there and easy fix for this? Is a replacement head recommended?

 

[FredTheNuke]

the march 809 with the upgraded impeller primes MUCH better!!! Tested it today...

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

should the 815 impeller be drilled out to 17/64" to increase the fluid between them also?

Its really on a case by case basis. It wont hurt anything if you want to take that step. The issues most people have that would require drilling the impeller out are usually from not cleaning the pump out after brewing properly.....or they happen to get a pump with a shaft on the max side of tolerance and an impeller with a bore on the min side of tolerance. In a water application it would never be a problem...but with beer you have a sugar in the liquid and it can crystalize between the two and cause it to bind up. Opening up the clearances will help keep it clean of those sugars and help it clean out better.

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

My AC-3C-MD seized on me so I took it apart and cleaned it up. It seems the impeller still doesn't want to spin without some resistance in the magnet housing. I put it back together and not the motor runs and fluid floods the head but there is not fluid movement. I suspect the impeller is slipping. Is there and easy fix for this? Is a replacement head recommended?

If it spins freely on the shaft, but not when its inside the rear housing, then you probably have some damage to the impeller and the rear housing....you can replace just those two items and be back in business....

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

Any chance for a self priming reservoir for an 809? I see the 750 reservoir, but the pdf doesn't list the 809 as a compatible model. Also, I bet an integrated reservoir for a high-temp, self-priming solution would be great for the homebrew market.

Cheers!

That 750 priming chamber you could adapt to the 809 if you wanted to but the issues would be the chamber itself as it really has no temp rating. Its a LDPE plastic...its been OK'd for potable water use but that's only at room temps...i have no specs on it for anything else temp wise.
What you can do if you wanted to create your own priming chamber is to find a stainless canister you can seal off. Then get two fittings installed on it on the top and bottom sides like ours is. You hook up the pump tot he bottom inlet and prefill the chamber with liquid and seal it up. As the pump draws the liquid out of the chamber it will create a vacuum inside and will pump liquid into itself. Depending on how big the chamber is will dictate how much lift it will pull. In our case the chamber holds about 1 gallon of liquid and through a 1" line will give you 10' of suction lift.

 

[FrizzleFry]

Just won an ebay auction for a pump. My intention is to use it for cooling wort by pumping through a plate chiller. So the question is, which is better:

Kettle->Chiller->Pump->

or

Kettle->Pump->Chiller->

I would be recirculating it back into the kettle until the temp got down. My first thought is to have the chiller first to spare the pump from higher temps. But I could be wrong.

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

Kettle--> Pump--> Chiller-->

you want the least bit of restriction on the inlet side of the pump as possible...

 

[Irrenarzt]

Yep, that's how I do it with great success.

 

[milldoggy]

Kettle--> Pump--> Chiller-->

you want the least bit of restriction on the inlet side of the pump as possible...

Also, this let's you slow your flow through the chiller by controling the output valve of the pump. If the other way around, you would be restricting flow to the pump and that would not be good.

 

[DFP51]

I am putting my stand together, and my pump mounts directly below the kettle. So realistically, my mounting choices come down to Inlet South and Outlet North with two elbows making a u bend from the kettle to the inlet or, choice two, Inlet to the East and Outlet to the West. The pump is mounted approximately 18 inches below the kettle drain and both the Inlet and Outlet will be fed from 1/2 in silicone hose through Bargain Fittings QD fittingss. Before I cut all the hoses, etc, can you give me an idea what would be the better configuration?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Jhenjum]

If it spins freely on the shaft, but not when its inside the rear housing, then you probably have some damage to the impeller and the rear housing....you can replace just those two items and be back in business....

It didn't spin freely on the shaft. I figured WTH and drilled out the impeller shaft to 17/64 and it is functioning again. I first drilled out 1/4 but still had sticking. I now have perhaps too much clearance and it rattles a little. Any danger in that?

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

I am putting my stand together, and my pump mounts directly below the kettle. So realistically, my mounting choices come down to Inlet South and Outlet North with two elbows making a u bend from the kettle to the inlet or, choice two, Inlet to the East and Outlet to the West. The pump is mounted approximately 18 inches below the kettle drain and both the Inlet and Outlet will be fed from 1/2 in silicone hose through Bargain Fittings QD fittingss. Before I cut all the hoses, etc, can you give me an idea what would be the better configuration?

Thanks in advance.

If you have the room then do it with the outlet on top (North) and with the 90* fittings and your U-Bends i would step it up to 3/4" plumbing for that U-bend and just put adapters to hook up your hose and to the pump head....this way the U-bend is not posing much of any restriction....

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

It didn't spin freely on the shaft. I figured WTH and drilled out the impeller shaft to 17/64 and it is functioning again. I first drilled out 1/4 but still had sticking. I now have perhaps too much clearance and it rattles a little. Any danger in that?

If it didnt spin frely on the shaft then it may have been run dry...either from thermal expansion from running it too hot or with no liquid....drillig it out will fix your issue and the noise wont hurt anything...other then annoying you of anything

 

[Jhenjum]

Thanks brother !

 

[Golddiggie]

Walter, I scored a new 809 pump with the stainless head (center inlet, 3/4" in, 1/2" out)... I didn't see the same white 'washer' between the impeller and the plate that goes to the pump body. Does the stainless pump not use the washer? I also see that the bore of the outlet of the pump is smaller than I would have thought it would be. Would that create an issue down the road, or am I just worried about nothing? Also, if I picked up an impeller for the 815 pump, will that work just as well as it does in my standard 809 pump? The new impeller in my older pump turned it into a BEAST of a pump.

Now I need to get a new toolbox to house the new pump. Since I no longer need to worry about the inlet pointing down, below the pump motor, it opens up the possibility of what I can use for a toolbox. :rockin:

 

[DFP51]

If you have the room then do it with the outlet on top (North) and with the 90* fittings and your U-Bends i would step it up to 3/4" plumbing for that U-bend and just put adapters to hook up your hose and to the pump head....this way the U-bend is not posing much of any restriction....

Thanks Walter.

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

Walter, I scored a new 809 pump with the stainless head (center inlet, 3/4" in, 1/2" out)... I didn't see the same white 'washer' between the impeller and the plate that goes to the pump body. Does the stainless pump not use the washer?

Depending on how old the pump is, it may have a black washer instead of a white.....either way there should be one there....if not give me a call and i will send you one out.

I also see that the bore of the outlet of the pump is smaller than I would have thought it would be. Would that create an issue down the road, or am I just worried about nothing?

Nothing to worry about....Its a little smaller then it can be....but if you bore it out you wont get enough of a change to warrant expanding it. It mainly there to balance the pump out when people use smaller plumbing then they should on the inlet side of the pump.


Also, if I picked up an impeller for the 815 pump, will that work just as well as it does in my standard 809 pump? The new impeller in my older pump turned it into a BEAST of a pump.

Yes it will work the same way in the SS Head

Now I need to get a new toolbox to house the new pump. Since I no longer need to worry about the inlet pointing down, below the pump motor, it opens up the possibility of what I can use for a toolbox. :rockin:

 

[BrewWorm]

I'm thinking of drilling out the 3/8" female threads of my 809 center inlet. I'm thinking it might help reduce cavitation, with a smooth inlet surface. I would think this was a common practice, but haven't found much mention of it.

Would this greatly reduced the structural integrity of the inlet? What would be the best size bit for this, or is it just not recommended?

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

The threads wont cause cavitation....they may cause turbulance but thats about it. If you were to actually measure them you will see the smooth part inside the pump past the threads is ever so slightly smaller then the threads. Drilling them out will only help if you had some clening issues and got "stuff" in the threads that wasnt cleaned out. If you wanted to drill them out, i would first start with a 5/8" drill bit and move up to the 11/16" if that doesnt clear them out completely.

 

[ekjohns]

Walter,

I am looking to mount my pump in a tool box and was wondering about exactly the best way to do this. I have seen people do it different ways:

1. the connecting bracket (part 11 on diagram below) is bolted to the toolbox wall between the bracket and motor,

2. The pump head is free floating in the hole and the base of the motor is mounted to the floor of the tool box.

3. The connecting bracket is mounted to the toolbox between the bracket and the pump head.

1 and 3 would require moving the drive magnet (14) further from the motor. Is this fine and what is the best way of doing it? Also if I choose 1 or 3 would it be fine to leave the motor not secured, or would the weight of the motor put strain on the system?

 

[motobrewer]

Walter, I scored a new 809 pump with the stainless head (center inlet, 3/4" in, 1/2" out)... I didn't see the same white 'washer' between the impeller and the plate that goes to the pump body. Does the stainless pump not use the washer? I also see that the bore of the outlet of the pump is smaller than I would have thought it would be. Would that create an issue down the road, or am I just worried about nothing? Also, if I picked up an impeller for the 815 pump, will that work just as well as it does in my standard 809 pump? The new impeller in my older pump turned it into a BEAST of a pump.

Now I need to get a new toolbox to house the new pump. Since I no longer need to worry about the inlet pointing down, below the pump motor, it opens up the possibility of what I can use for a toolbox. :rockin:

damn, did you get one of the ones from Eric??

i was emailing him, then i left for the weekend. when i got back they were gone.

In the pics he sent me, it showed an EPDM o-ring. might be your issue.

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

Walter, I scored a new 809 pump with the stainless head (center inlet, 3/4" in, 1/2" out)... I didn't see the same white 'washer' between the impeller and the plate that goes to the pump body. Does the stainless pump not use the washer? I also see that the bore of the outlet of the pump is smaller than I would have thought it would be. Would that create an issue down the road, or am I just worried about nothing? Also, if I picked up an impeller for the 815 pump, will that work just as well as it does in my standard 809 pump? The new impeller in my older pump turned it into a BEAST of a pump.

Now I need to get a new toolbox to house the new pump. Since I no longer need to worry about the inlet pointing down, below the pump motor, it opens up the possibility of what I can use for a toolbox. :rockin:

I just re-read you posting and there is no washer between the impeller and the stainless plate...the washer is between the impeller and the main pump housing....it sits on the shaft...and its usually white...may be black if older unit..

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

Walter,

I am looking to mount my pump in a tool box and was wondering about exactly the best way to do this. I have seen people do it different ways:

1. the connecting bracket (part 11 on diagram below) is bolted to the toolbox wall between the bracket and motor,

2. The pump head is free floating in the hole and the base of the motor is mounted to the floor of the tool box.

3. The connecting bracket is mounted to the toolbox between the bracket and the pump head.

1 and 3 would require moving the drive magnet (14) further from the motor. Is this fine and what is the best way of doing it? Also if I choose 1 or 3 would it be fine to leave the motor not secured, or would the weight of the motor put strain on the system?

I think the easiest way would be to take the pump head off the motor bracket (the 4 philips screws) and place the motor/bracket inside the box and line it up against the box side and mark where it hits. From that point i would cut a 3" hole and you should be able to get the first half of the motor bracket in and through that hole. The bracket is actually 3-9/32" in dia but the main bracket body is closer to 2-3/4".....so you should be able to get the mounting ears through.......you will have a gap around it but that would be cosmetic at that point.
If you wanted to make it look perfect, as i'm sure some people do, you would need to take the motor bracket off and remove the drive magnet. Just note how it sits on the shaft of the motor. Place the motor into the box and mark there the shaft hit the side. At that point you drill a hole 1/4" pilot hole....then print out the attachment below and drill the restof the holes.....you need a 2-1/8" hole saw and then 4 9/64" holes for the screws. When you have it all done you put the magnet back on the shaft and offset it by how thick your plastic box is. Then assemble the bracket back on the motor and eyeball the magnet as close to center as possible. Put the pump head back on and plumb it up with some water. Turn it on ans see if you get any rubbing. If you do then loosen the flat haed screws and tap the bracket around till its nice and quiet again. And you should be in business.

I made this template for you guys...it should be full size so you should be able just to tape it on the box and drill away

View attachment 809 Box Template Model (1).pdf

 

[ekjohns]

THANKS WALTER! So you would recommend attaching the pump between the bracket and motor, and not between the head and the bracket? I will more than likely just drill a hole and stick the pump through it without any mounting. It will not be fully water proof but it would take quite a stream to get all the way into the motor. still something to think about

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

its up to you as to how much you want to mess with it. Here at the factory we use a jig to center up the motor bracket and set the depth of the drive magnet. You would need to just play with it a little bit to center it back up again....and you can set the magnet dept 1/16" below the face of the motor bracket before the pump housing goes back on....it would take some time of back fourth but you can do if you have the paitence. If your not concerned about the looks of it then i would just drill the 3" hole and stuff the motor bracket through the hole and out...yes you will a gap around it but unless you go and spill the entire batch on the floor an it hits the box i dont think there will be enough splashing to get to the motor and affect it.

 

[beardedirishman]

If you wanted to make it look perfect, as i'm sure some people do, you would need to take the motor bracket off and remove the drive magnet. Just note how it sits on the shaft of the motor. Place the motor into the box and mark there the shaft hit the side. At that point you drill a hole 1/4" pilot hole....then print out the attachment below and drill the restof the holes.....you need a 2-1/8" hole saw and then 4 9/64" holes for the screws. When you have it all done you put the magnet back on the shaft and offset it by how thick your plastic box is. Then assemble the bracket back on the motor and eyeball the magnet as close to center as possible. Put the pump head back on and plumb it up with some water. Turn it on ans see if you get any rubbing. If you do then loosen the flat haed screws and tap the bracket around till its nice and quiet again. And you should be in business.

I made this template for you guys...it should be full size so you should be able just to tape it on the box and drill away

Walter, could this be done with the AC-5B-MD? I like the new mounting plates I've seen that go between the drive magnet and the motor on some 809's out there. With the AC5B the mount on the motor is a little flimsy, and I'm always worried that something's going to break on it.

 

[passedpawn]

I made this template for you guys...it should be full size so you should be able just to tape it on the box and drill away

I wish I had that template when I did mine! I made a very similar one the hard way. Thanks though for others attempting to do this.

 

[jkarp]

Hey Walter - I've got a quick question. I'd like to convert my 809-HS from side to center input. Do I need anything but the housing (0809-0179-0100)?

Cheers!

 

[Golddiggie]

I just re-read you posting and there is no washer between the impeller and the stainless plate...the washer is between the impeller and the main pump housing....it sits on the shaft...and its usually white...may be black if older unit..

I found that out between when I posted that and your reply... I now have two 'spare' washers on hand, in case I need them. Cheap enough to not worry about that.

Looking at the template, if we do a 3" hole, ~2" from the bottom of the toolbox (offsetting for the bottom thickness) there won't be all that much of a gap around the pump. Talking about just over 1/16" here... Personally, I can live with that small of a gap.