Question on wiring for 2-stage Inkbird in Collar

[UT-Alex]

I'm in beginning of a keezer build and I've decided I'd like to do some more DIY work with the temp. controller and I'd like to have this knockoff STC-1000 in the collar mostly for aesthetics and I like the idea of having it within the keezer versus a separate project box.

So question 1: Does anyone have anything negative to say about the 2-stage Inkbird controller? I plan to use this keezer as a fermentation chamber as well and the main reason I am wanting to purchase the Inkbird over the STC-1000 is the Fahrenheit display.

Question 2: I'm not super handy with electrical work, so I was wondering if 2 electrical outlets are required for a 2 stage? I've seen a lot of project boxes with 2 electrical outlets like this.

I understand I'll need a heater inside of the keezer to kick on and I'm trying to figure the best set up for this. Here's what I currently have in mind:

Can I plug the heater into the same outlet or will I need 2 electrical outlets and have a cord running back in through the collar to the heater?

The inside should look like this. And the back should look like this but potentially 2 electrical outlets? That's my main question.

 

[aces-n-eights]

I recently wired up an Inkbird controller and it works great. I too, like the F display and that's why i went with the Inkbird.

I wired the Inkbird to a regular dual outlet. There is a tab between the two outlets and you must break that tab. Wire one outlet for heat and the other one for cool.

Another alternative would be to wire an outlet on the outside of your keezer for the cooling function - plug the freezer in here, and then wire another outlet inside the keezer for your heater. This will minimize the number of wires you have to pass thru the collar of your keezer.

There are several youtube vids on basic wiring of an STC1000 that helped me a lot.

Good luck!

 

[augiedoggy]

Have you guys heard of the stc 1000+? it has F display too and unlike the many over stc clones it has the abilities to store and use different times profile ramps and hold fermenters at different temps for different time periods... they blow away anything in the pricerange for functionality since you can buy them for $15-18 a piece and program them yourself or buy them preprogrammed for like $30...

 

[UT-Alex]

Have you guys heard of the stc 1000+? it has F display too and unlike the many over stc clones it has the abilities to store and use different times profile ramps and hold fermenters at different temps for different time periods... they blow away anything in the pricerange for functionality since you can buy them for $15-18 a piece and program them yourself or buy them preprogrammed for like $30...

My google skills seem to be lacking right now, I can't find a link to purchase one with the new firmware. Is it not normally loaded with that firmware?

 

[augiedoggy]

My google skills seem to be lacking right now, I can't find a link to purchase one with the new firmware. Is it not normally loaded with that firmware?

http://www.blackboxbrew.com/

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=464348

 

[UT-Alex]

All sold out. I'll just go with the Inkbird. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[UT-Alex]

Can someone check my wiring on this?

The red is live, neutral is gray and ground is green. Maybe I'm not using those terms correctly because the confusing part to me is there isn't a red going to the outlet that will be mounted on the collar.

 

[raouliii]

That top blue wirenut looks suspect. The switched hots need to be independently fed back to the heat and cool receptacle hot terminals. The only neutral to the controller is for AC to the controller.

 

[UT-Alex]

That top blue wirenut looks suspect. The switched hots need to be independently fed back to the heat and cool receptacle hot terminals. The only neutral to the controller is for AC to the controller.

That was another concern. When you say switched hots you mean line 5 and 6 right (heating and cool powers)? And line 2 would be fine to be ran this way?

I guess that means longer single wires that I manually group together versus just using stripped wire from an extension cord for lines 5 and 6.

 

[TexasWine]

All sold out. I'll just go with the Inkbird. Thanks for the suggestion.

In stock, ready to ship.

http://www.boostbysmith.com/diy.html

 

[augiedoggy]

In stock, ready to ship.

http://www.boostbysmith.com/diy.html

I was looking for that link and couldnt find it.

 

[raouliii]

That was another concern. When you say switched hots you mean line 5 and 6 right (heating and cool powers)? And line 2 would be fine to be ran this way?

I guess that means longer single wires that I manually group together versus just using stripped wire from an extension cord for lines 5 and 6.

Internal to the controller, between the HEAT terminals 5 & 6, is essentially a switch contact. This switch contact closes when HEAT is on. A HOT wire should be connected to one terminal and the other terminal would be considered a "Switched HOT" which is then wired to the HOT terminal of the HEAT receptacle. The same discussion applies to the COOL terminals, 7 & 8.

The legend in the upper right is incorrect. This would be more accurate: 5. Heater (Switched HOT) & 7. Cooling (Switched HOT)

The only neutral at the controller is 2. Neutral

An additional word of warning. If you wire the controller per your diagram, it will likely be damaged the first time the controller calls for heat or cool.

 

[UT-Alex]

Internal to the controller, between the HEAT terminals 5 & 6, is essentially a switch contact. This switch contact closes when HEAT is on. A HOT wire should be connected to one terminal and the other terminal would be considered a "Switched HOT" which is then wired to the HOT terminal of the HEAT receptacle. The same discussion applies to the COOL terminals, 7 & 8.

The legend in the upper right is incorrect. This would be more accurate: 5. Heater (Switched HOT) & 7. Cooling (Switched HOT)

The only neutral at the controller is 2. Neutral

An additional word of warning. If you wire the controller per your diagram, it will likely be damaged the first time the controller calls for heat or cool.

I think I finally have it sorted it out, if my legend is now correct. Thanks for your help!