question on RIMS and a Cooler

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M25

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So I was thinking about slowly working my way towards RIMS. But i was going to try and do it as cheaply as possibly in an incremental fashion. Right now i'm batch sparging with a cube cooler mash tun. The acquisitions process was going to be pump (first to make it easier to brew), then a RIMS tube (just use a johnson controller at first which I already own), then a new igloo cooler and let my cube be the new HLT for fly sparging (gravity). I would circulate the mash by putting the tube into the top of the cooler and pumping out through the port. I was reading on AIH that it was not recommended to use their cooler MTs with a pump because it may result in flow problems. I was assuming i could just not open the valve on the pump all the way to decrease the flow.

I was curious if (1) anyone had tried this and had issues and (2) to get opinions form the braintrust on the setup.

Also, 5 gallon finished batches, 120V rims tube.

Thanks in advance
 
An issue I have with large grain bills (25 Pounds) in a 10 gallon Igloo is not enough water flow through the grainbed to keep the suction on the pump wet and the element cool. I think it maybe due to my crush but I am going to adjust my mill the next big beer I brew.
 
An issue I have with large grain bills (25 Pounds) in a 10 gallon Igloo is not enough water flow through the grainbed to keep the suction on the pump wet and the element cool. I think it maybe due to my crush but I am going to adjust my mill the next big beer I brew.

I wonder if adding a decent sized grant onto the input of the pump would resolve that?

You could add more water volume to the circuit that way..
 
With 25lbs of grain and 6-7 gallons of water its FULL. I mean absolutely no more water going in there haha. If I can't figure out my issue Im going to buy a Big Blichmann pot.
 
So I was thinking about slowly working my way towards RIMS. But i was going to try and do it as cheaply as possibly in an incremental fashion. Right now i'm batch sparging with a cube cooler mash tun. The acquisitions process was going to be pump (first to make it easier to brew), then a RIMS tube (just use a johnson controller at first which I already own), then a new igloo cooler and let my cube be the new HLT for fly sparging (gravity). I would circulate the mash by putting the tube into the top of the cooler and pumping out through the port. I was reading on AIH that it was not recommended to use their cooler MTs with a pump because it may result in flow problems. I was assuming i could just not open the valve on the pump all the way to decrease the flow.

I was curious if (1) anyone had tried this and had issues and (2) to get opinions form the braintrust on the setup.

Also, 5 gallon finished batches, 120V rims tube.

Thanks in advance

My 10 Gallon RIMS tube is 115v. It keeps 10 gallons warm with no issue.
 
I also use a 115v tube for 10g batches in a 10g round cooler. If the mash were too thick I could see issues maintaining flow. I've not gone over 22 lbs, if I want to do a big batch I just do 5 gallons rather than 10.
Make sure you put your pump valve on the output side. That way the pump always has fluid. You're on track, it will be nice when you piece it all together. Start thinking about the design now as you buy parts. Do you want quick disconnects, cam locks, hard plumbed with valves to redirect flow? Good luck.
 
With 25lbs of grain and 6-7 gallons of water its FULL. I mean absolutely no more water going in there haha. If I can't figure out my issue Im going to buy a Big Blichmann pot.

No, i understand... Adding a grant would give you more volume in addition to the volume in the mlt & provide greater buffering of the flow.

Also allows the pump to reprime because it isnt in a closed circuit.
 
I was reading on AIH that it was not recommended to use their cooler MTs with a pump because it may result in flow problems.

I'm having trouble understanding why a cooler would be any different from a kettle as a mlt. Maybe they are more specifically referring to bazooka tubes vs manifolds vs false bottoms?
 
Do you have a HLT? If so, I would recommend HERMS over RIMS. For me it was cheaper and easier to control (I've had both).
Also, I don't think you're going to have much success with a Johnson control for the RIMS.
 
Also, I don't think you're going to have much success with a Johnson control for the RIMS.

I'd be curious to see some tests. I've programmed an arduino to by my RIMS PID controller. After tweaking it in an effort to optimize the algorithm for my system it has been becoming more and more like a thermostat controller than a PID controller. A Johnson Control might work just fine, worth a shot anyway since OP already owns one. Maybe someone who's already tried it can chime in.
 
I'd be curious to see some tests. I've programmed an arduino to by my RIMS PID controller. After tweaking it in an effort to optimize the algorithm for my system it has been becoming more and more like a thermostat controller than a PID controller. A Johnson Control might work just fine, worth a shot anyway since OP already owns one. Maybe someone who's already tried it can chime in.

If temp swings of +/- 1 degree of your target are tolerable, the Johnson should work..

This is assuming minimal overrage from the on/off nature of the thermostat..

The overshoot could be more significant than + 1 degree though. There are obviously too many variables to list without knowing the specifics of the HERMS/RIMS system.

Having attempted to do it with a STC 1000, I much prefer a PID controller.
 
I'm having trouble understanding why a cooler would be any different from a kettle as a mlt. Maybe they are more specifically referring to bazooka tubes vs manifolds vs false bottoms?


Outside of lautering, I would think maybe just if someone was using the stock output spigot on a cooler and that was a small-ish diameter in comparison to what most people would run with a pump?


If OP wanted to test this part of it, they could hook up just the pump to recirc before having any RIMS tube come into play just to see if there's any issues. Possible minus being losing a degree or two just on the travel of the wort, plus being recirc / better lautering than hand-vorlaufing.
 
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