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Question about False Bottom

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Thundercougarfalconbird

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So I got this mashtun for like $45 at my LHBS. I plan to replace the false bottom it came with in good time. But I'd like to use this one until I can afford a Jaybird one.
This bottom seems to have two slight flat sides and the holes are about 1/11 of an inch. (excuse my foot in the one pic =P)
False Bottom1.jpg

False Bottom2.jpg

False Bottom3.jpg

As you can see grain will obviously slip down the sides during a sparge, so I'm going to keep a braid in the bottom as well. But would this be acceptable for me to fly sparge? Or would the flat sides render the concept of a false bottom useless? And finally It didn't come with a stand like jaybirds. Is it ok for my false bottom to sit at an angle on the bottom?(if that's unacceptable, got any ideas for a stand?)
Edit: also doesn't a stand mess with the volumes of strike/sparge water needed since there would be dead space where water isn't touching grain?
 
thats a bit strange, i dont think i've ever seen a FB with sides cut out like that, i'd at least call the shop and see if they made a mistake on that one
 
oh, its used and second hand. The LHBS is just the middle man. I bought it simply because the cheapest cooler I could find was $47. This was $45 with brass fittings and a false bottom.
 
They cut the FB from a rectangular piece that was not wide enough to complete the circle. That is very poor workmanship on their part, and worthless if you asked me. I'd take it back, since essentially you paid $45 for a cooler.
 
Cheapest 10 gallon cooler I can find even without fittings =P
I suppose I'll just use a braid and batch sparge until I can get a real false bottom.
 
Why do you have to have the false bottom to fly sparge? Don't many fly sparge with just a braid or pvc constructed drain tubes?
 
I thought channeling was an issue with fly sparging. And braids can cause some channeling, but this is nullified with batch sparging. Manifolds reduce/remove channeling so they would be prefered with flysparging.
(I think)
 
I thought channeling was an issue with fly sparging. And braids can cause some channeling, but this is nullified with batch sparging. Manifolds reduce/remove channeling so they would be prefered with flysparging.
(I think)

yes.....

It's hard to see in the picture, but the false bottom is just flat, not domed? If it doesn't really match up on the sides, that's not a huge deal. You'd just have to vorlauf more, I'd think. Or try batch sparging.
 
yea its just a flat sheet. Are domed false bottoms prefered?(like the ones on morebeer)
I just figured since jaybird gets what seems like so much attention of the forum I'd order one of his bottoms(which appear to also be flat)
Will there be any impact of my bottom sitting at an angle?(half of it on the bottom of the cooler, the other half proped up on the coupling?
 
No, not really. The false bottom helps prevent channeling. For batch sparging the type of false bottom/manifold/braid/etc doesn't matter.

No what? No false bottom is required to fly sparge or No, you can't fly sparge without a false bottom.... never could understand UP'ers ;)

I fly sparge with a manifold, verry, verrry, verrrry slowly and only once have I seen evidence of channeling and that was because my first manifold wasn't tight enough fit and I knocked a piece loose.
 
I fly sparge with a SS braid in a circle and get 85% efficiency. The beers taste great. Ideally I would like a false bottom but I don't want to spend the money on one right now.
 
yea its just a flat sheet. Are domed false bottoms prefered?(like the ones on morebeer)
I just figured since jaybird gets what seems like so much attention of the forum I'd order one of his bottoms(which appear to also be flat)
Will there be any impact of my bottom sitting at an angle?(half of it on the bottom of the cooler, the other half proped up on the coupling?

Bump, to try and get my questions answered.
 
ideally you would want it domed and the dip tube drawing from under the dome, that is why most false bottoms have the hole in the middle because you want the edges of the false bottom (domed) to be flat on the bottom. I haven't looked a Jaybirds for a long time but if it's flat it will have stand-offs to keep it off the bottom, you want to be able to draw off the liquid with little grain as possible, then you just keep pouring that back into the mash until its clear of grain (vorlauf) then move the runnings to the brew kettle. you might be able to salvage what you have with little DIY.
 
you could drill bigger holes and attached 3-5 SS bolts to give it feet.
 
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