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Pump question - how to make this work?

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Joewalla88

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My stuff has always been gravity few before, but I recently acquired two used pumps. What attachments do I need to make these work? I'm not sure what goes in the larger threaded space.
20180618_214148.jpeg
 
Well... take your pump to home depot and test fit brass fittings. Its probably male 3/4 NTP on inlet and female 1/2 NPT on outlet...using brass is fine, but you can also test fit at Home Depot then buy same size in stainless online if you wish. On the outlet you will want a 1/2" ball valve to control flow. If the inlet is 3/4 then get a 1/2 female to 3/4 male adapter then you can add barbs or QD's to the pump. I prefer quick disconnects on everything.
 
Well... take your pump to home depot and test fit brass fittings. Its probably male 3/4 NTP on inlet and female 1/2 NPT on outlet...using brass is fine, but you can also test fit at Home Depot then buy same size in stainless online if you wish. On the outlet you will want a 1/2" ball valve to control flow. If the inlet is 3/4 then get a 1/2 female to 3/4 male adapter then you can add barbs or QD's to the pump. I prefer quick disconnects on everything.
Ha! I didn't even think of that. I thought it would require some special part or something. Thanks!
 
That looks like a March AC-5B-Md pump which takes a 1" FPT fitting for the center inlet. The outlet is 1/2" MPT. You can find relatively inexpensive cam lock and TC fittings at places like BrewHardware.
 
Sweet thanks. I have had them for a while. I got then for free, but just didn't know what parts I needed to get them to work. It just dawned on me the other day to ask.
 
Also check out CamLock Quick Disconnect fittings like these, especially the High Flow versions of them, with full 1/2" bore.

I made this mistake. I started with the QD fittings (not CAM lock) and realized that all of them were 3/8 ID... but it just doesn't seem reasonable to spend the 150 or more dollars to upgrade to the 5/8 version for full flow. I'm sure it would make for stronger whirlpools though if I had full bore fittings.
 
I made this mistake. I started with the QD fittings (not CAM lock) and realized that all of them were 3/8 ID... but it just doesn't seem reasonable to spend the 150 or more dollars to upgrade to the 5/8 version for full flow. I'm sure it would make for stronger whirlpools though if I had full bore fittings.

3/8" is not so bad, the original "low flow" Camlocks like the "C" and the "L" elbow had long narrow shafts (barbs), which were closer to 1/4" bore.

You may not see $150 worth of a stronger whirlpool going to 1/2", but it depends on many other factors as well. Like length of hoses, the whirlpool nozzle shape and size itself as well as its direction, height, obstructions, etc.
 
A few things about plastic heads. They can be fragile, threads can cross and strip easily, be careful when tightening, and you can't suspend the pump from it, the body (motor) needs to provide the support. Don't unscrew the fittings too often either. Let them be where they are, and CIP.
 
Found some aluminum and carbon steel camlocks for pretty cheap. Would either of these work for now? I'll probably invest in some stainless later, but thought I'd just get something a but cheaper for the time being, just to kinda test things out.
 
Found some aluminum and carbon steel camlocks for pretty cheap. Would either of these work for now? I'll probably invest in some stainless later, but thought I'd just get something a but cheaper for the time being, just to kinda test things out.

+1 to Bargain Fittings ^ and BrewHardware (our own Bobby).

I'd stay away from aluminum camlocks. You only need to buy them once, so buy proven SS ones. The only thing that may need replacing once in awhile is the 50 cent silicone washer/gasket, because it gets dark brown after a few years.
 

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