wyzazz
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Looks great! Have you used it in this configuration yet?
Pump In (Inside) a Toolbox - Stainless
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OP
OP
Yup. Used it for a Red last weekend and it worked great. Picked up some toggle switches that I'm going o place in the lid to the side of the PID for alarm, fan, and PID power cut.
I got sick of having to go into the PID settings to turn off the alarm - this way I can just cut the power. I also want to be able to turn off the cooling fan when I want, since right now it is always on as soon as the main switch is on. Figured it wouldn't hurt to be able to power down the PID if I am just pumping to....
OP
OP
Had the pump running for hours without issue. Used the RIMS to help me get the strike water up to temp, recirculated for over an hour, the sparged for about an hour. No overheating at all. Ran boiling wort for about 15 min before chilling and whirlpooling too. Works great and is nice and compact.
stratslinger
Well-Known Member
Very cool! I borrowed this design myself, and I'm strongly considering adding a RIMS setup sometime in the new year. You've got my gears turning with regards to how I might retrofit a PID and SSR into my current setup (I've already got the exhaust fan). Hmmm....
Thanks again for the great ideas!
Thanks again for the great ideas!
OP
OP
Do it! that was the whole point! however you end up doing it, the only thing that really matters is that you make a functional box that is very compact. That is the whole reason that I started this thread.
OP
OP
In general people use pumps for transferring hot liquids like the strike water and for chilling boiling wort. This becomes more important with larger batches where you don't want to be lifting 100 lbs of boiling liquid.
This design also now incorporates a RIMS system for even more.control during the mash. It allows me to constantly recirculate through the grainbed at a very specific temp for as long as I want. This creates a very clear wort preboil, and gives really good conversion consistency and replication of recipes. Search RIMS to learn more on that...
This design also now incorporates a RIMS system for even more.control during the mash. It allows me to constantly recirculate through the grainbed at a very specific temp for as long as I want. This creates a very clear wort preboil, and gives really good conversion consistency and replication of recipes. Search RIMS to learn more on that...
Mtn_Brewer
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I made a similar box last year. I used a steel tool box from Home Depot, an Auber 1/4 DIN PID, a 5 inch AC computer fan, 40 amp SSR with heat sink and a March pump. The pump was mounted through the box. It already had a ball valve for flow control and a Blichmann brewmometer, as it started as a direct fire RIMS system on my stove (see photo below). The return system also was repurposed. The fan blows air past the SSR heat sink and pump with the exhaust on the back. It's wired so the fan comes on with power up and the heater won't run unless the pump and PID are turned on. I use a RIMS tube from Brewers Hardware with a 4800 watt 240 volt element. It drops into a couple of u-bolts I attached to the side of my brewstand and is easily removed for a cleaning soak. The system has worked great once I started using 1/2 lb of rice hulls per batch and keep the flow rate to < 2 gpm.
jakwhite
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OCBrewin said:
Thankyou I still need to Learn what's what and more detail on things
Like step by step recipes I downloaded the beer alchemy thinking it would have that but it's confusing! I'm going to keep onto it though for when it will make sense!
stratslinger
Well-Known Member
Jak, when you're very first starting out, you're probably only doing extract, and moving large amounts of fluid from one vessel to another doesn't seem like something you'd do a lot on brew day - except maybe to siphon your chilled wort into your fermenter once you're done boiling and chilling...
But right now, on a brew day, I use my pump to transfer strike water and sparge water from my HLT into my Mash Tun (terms you'll become familiar with down the road if you choose to pursue all grain brewing). I also use my pump to recirculate boiling wort through my counter flow chiller to sanitize it, and then to push the hot wort through that chiller while actually going through the chilling process.
A bit down the road, I plan to add a RIMS tube like a couple of the guys above have. Basically, that's just a tube with a heating element in it that you constantly circulate the wort from your mash through - this helps maintain the correct mash temperature and the constant recirculation is supposed to add a bit to your mash efficiency. But you need to use your pump to circulate the fluid through that tube, so again, the pump comes into play!
But right now, on a brew day, I use my pump to transfer strike water and sparge water from my HLT into my Mash Tun (terms you'll become familiar with down the road if you choose to pursue all grain brewing). I also use my pump to recirculate boiling wort through my counter flow chiller to sanitize it, and then to push the hot wort through that chiller while actually going through the chilling process.
A bit down the road, I plan to add a RIMS tube like a couple of the guys above have. Basically, that's just a tube with a heating element in it that you constantly circulate the wort from your mash through - this helps maintain the correct mash temperature and the constant recirculation is supposed to add a bit to your mash efficiency. But you need to use your pump to circulate the fluid through that tube, so again, the pump comes into play!
I almost used that same toolbox but was worried about the diamond plate....did you have any issues mounting the pump head? Did you have to grind down any of the "diamonds"?
jakwhite
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Yeah your very correct, to me that is brew day putting it all into my fermentor then checking gravity etc then syphoning it from my fermentor to my barrel,
I've literally had a week of going through this forum I've not been able to stop looking at everybody's set ups etc and can't wait to start brewing with grains and everything
But love the tool box idea it looks great
I've literally had a week of going through this forum I've not been able to stop looking at everybody's set ups etc and can't wait to start brewing with grains and everything
But love the tool box idea it looks great
Mtn_Brewer
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BBQBrew01 said:
It wasn't a problem. All the components could be fit between the diamonds pretty easily, including the PID.
OP
OP
That box is very nice. Good job.
One thing that I want to point out is that the only really departure from all of the other boxes that I found on this site was the mounting of the pump head inside the box. That is really why I started this thread - with the plastic head on the outside of the box it is very susceptible to being struck and breaking, as many have done.
It looks like you have room inside the box to mount the pump backwards and plumb disconnects on the outside as I show in the original post and how others have done. Just my $0.02 if others are wanting to build a box following these ideas. I do have to say that your box looks a bit sturdier. The one from Harbor Freight is nice and shiny, but could be a bit heavier duty IMO. Cant beat the price though - I think I picked up the box for like $15.
That box is very nice. Good job.
One thing that I want to point out is that the only really departure from all of the other boxes that I found on this site was the mounting of the pump head inside the box. That is really why I started this thread - with the plastic head on the outside of the box it is very susceptible to being struck and breaking, as many have done.
It looks like you have room inside the box to mount the pump backwards and plumb disconnects on the outside as I show in the original post and how others have done. Just my $0.02 if others are wanting to build a box following these ideas. I do have to say that your box looks a bit sturdier. The one from Harbor Freight is nice and shiny, but could be a bit heavier duty IMO. Cant beat the price though - I think I picked up the box for like $15.
Do you have any priming issues with the pump mounted inside the box?
I currently have my Chugger pump with the head outside the box...but I'm thinking of converting to an inside the box design.
Mtn_Brewer
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OCBrewin said:That box is very nice. Good job.
One thing that I want to point out is that the only really departure from all of the other boxes that I found on this site was the mounting of the pump head inside the box. That is really why I started this thread - with the plastic head on the outside of the box it is very susceptible to being struck and breaking, as many have done.
It looks like you have room inside the box to mount the pump backwards and plumb disconnects on the outside as I show in the original post and how others have done. Just my $0.02 if others are wanting to build a box following these ideas. I do have to say that your box looks a bit sturdier. The one from Harbor Freight is nice and shiny, but could be a bit heavier duty IMO. Cant beat the price though - I think I picked up the box for like $15.
Nice build and I see your advantages but I like the access to my pump head as I have gotten my pump gummed up to the point I had to disassemble it to clean it out. Also, I could see a seal failing and all the electrical components getting soaked in sticky mash fluid and grains. If there was a way to get the pump inside but still walled off/isolated from the electrical stuff and yet easily removed for service issues then that may solve all concerns.
Somebody build one and post up.
OP
OP
Nope, no issues here. I think that once you get used to the mag drive pumps and how they work you learn how they like to work and how to properly prime them. For me, that just means flooding the pump and getting the air out before starting it, usually that's as easy as making sure that the inlet and outlet valves are cracked and having the pump well below the supply. I don't see how rotating the pump 180 degrees makes any difference in priming. It's still in the same orientation, just inside the box.
OP
OP
I hope that doesn't happen to me! I took it apart once, to check inside before mounting it in the box and it was squeeky clean! I always recirculate hot cleaner through it after each brew.
OP
OP
Just another update - used this box in its latest configuration (only difference being that I added kill switches for the alarm, PID and fan) for a Rye Pale this weekend and it worked perfectly. Mash started out a bit sticky, but I cleared that with a couple of stirs about half way through. Clearest wort to date. Here is the recipe in case anyone wants it - it details my steps and temps that I did with the box:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f70/ryans-rye-pale-373252/
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f70/ryans-rye-pale-373252/
Anyone concerned as there is water and electricity inside the same box? That just seems like an accident waiting to happen. You have a hose clamp that leaks and not good 
-Josh
-Josh
wyzazz
Well-Known Member
Nope, not concerned at all. That is what GFCI protection is for.
MyNameIsPaul
Well-Known Member
Which fittings are you guys using through the side of the box to have the pump IN the box with just the quick connect on the outside? It's hard to tell from the pictures.
OP
OP
Camlock fittings and high flow hose barbs. I also suggest reinforcing the wall with an additional plate or something because the stainless is pretty thin. I used a thin piece of hardwood board. You can either use camlock type A fittings with male threaded barbs, or type F fittings with female barbs - up to you.
MyNameIsPaul
Well-Known Member
Thank you!
OP
OP
Just FYI, I suggest the Type A fitting, male barbs, stainless washers and a hardwood plate. That's what I used. You can see them all in the original post.
MyNameIsPaul
Well-Known Member
OCB! I hope you're still around! I got all the parts for this today, save the pronged outlet (Dang you Radio Shack!) and I'd like to start cutting hold and wiring it up, but I was wondering if you (or anyone else reading this...) have a diagram for how it's supposed to be wired. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
wyzazz
Well-Known Member
I rarely ever need to re-prime my pump, but if you're using camlocks you could make an adapter to prime the pump fairly easily, kind of like I did for the ball valve to restrict the flow.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/pump-inside-toolbox-stainless-282011/index4.html#post3700635
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/pump-inside-toolbox-stainless-282011/index4.html#post3700635
MyNameIsPaul
Well-Known Member
OCBrewin-
Could I incorporate this Pump in a box to my rims with the following diagram? Would I have to rewire the outlet/switches that are currently on the tolbox? I'd like to have a self contained unit, like you did, but I'm not sure how to make it work with the current configuration.
Could I incorporate this Pump in a box to my rims with the following diagram? Would I have to rewire the outlet/switches that are currently on the tolbox? I'd like to have a self contained unit, like you did, but I'm not sure how to make it work with the current configuration.
OP
OP
Paul,
Here is the wiring diagram that I modified from where ever I found it online. It works well for me. It is crude, but useful. Note, I have added in a few items that make my pump a little more useful like a 120v fan directly over the pump an alarm buzzer and 3 toggle switches to kill the power to the fan, pid and alarm should I need to. These are all convenience items and can be added later, as I did. I think I posted an updated pic earlier in this thread, but if not I will snap another one. I've used this pump for about a year now and over 25 batches with no issues.
Here is the wiring diagram that I modified from where ever I found it online. It works well for me. It is crude, but useful. Note, I have added in a few items that make my pump a little more useful like a 120v fan directly over the pump an alarm buzzer and 3 toggle switches to kill the power to the fan, pid and alarm should I need to. These are all convenience items and can be added later, as I did. I think I posted an updated pic earlier in this thread, but if not I will snap another one. I've used this pump for about a year now and over 25 batches with no issues.
I do not use a ball valve on the pump outlet. Only one ball valve is needed in series to restrict the flow.
My pump box is on the bottom. I use the ball valves on the kettle returns to throttle the flow. Less parts, simpler layout. During hose changes, I just pinch the tubing while making the change to maintain my prime. Both ways work just fine.
What kind of tubing do you use...because the pressure rating for silicone tubing is extremely low. Also, I'm not coordinated enough to just pinch tubes without burning myself all to hell.
Glad your way works for you, but in the interest of safety, I wanted to share this blurb from brewhardware.com:
gx1400
Well-Known Member
I just built a very similar pump box, though not quite as clean (tried to jury-rig tools I had to do the job and ended up buying the tools I should have used after the fact... may rebuild one of these days).
Added a fan and vent and did not include an external GFCI because I plan to build a separate RIMS control box that this box will likely plug into. Also wanted to be able to carry my box over to a friends house to use without the added risk of the RIMS stuff being hurt by negligence.
Album: http://imgur.com/a/2PuYV
Exterior box front with output camlocked T attached. Front has push button switch and fan output..
Rear has fan vent and electrical inlet.
Two holes intentional. (Left to right): Left most lets the elbow from the pump output seat through the tray. Middle for the camlock T to fall through (see later). Right most for fuze holder to seat, should have mounted it lower... lesson learned.
Input power running through fuse, to switch, which switches GFCI outlet. Case grounded.
Pump and 120V fan are attached to GFCI. Everything is mounted to 1"x6" board scraps.
Attempting to whirlpool and circulate wort for faster cooling. Hop pellets clogged output screen, may have to try out hop bags.
Power cord and camlock T sit nicely in top tray.
Fits nicely in the hole. Try to make sure it's clean and dry before putting away. If it does leak, it's minimal and I attempted to insulate the electrical properly
Added a fan and vent and did not include an external GFCI because I plan to build a separate RIMS control box that this box will likely plug into. Also wanted to be able to carry my box over to a friends house to use without the added risk of the RIMS stuff being hurt by negligence.
Album: http://imgur.com/a/2PuYV
Exterior box front with output camlocked T attached. Front has push button switch and fan output..
Rear has fan vent and electrical inlet.
Two holes intentional. (Left to right): Left most lets the elbow from the pump output seat through the tray. Middle for the camlock T to fall through (see later). Right most for fuze holder to seat, should have mounted it lower... lesson learned.
Input power running through fuse, to switch, which switches GFCI outlet. Case grounded.
Pump and 120V fan are attached to GFCI. Everything is mounted to 1"x6" board scraps.
Attempting to whirlpool and circulate wort for faster cooling. Hop pellets clogged output screen, may have to try out hop bags.
Power cord and camlock T sit nicely in top tray.
Fits nicely in the hole. Try to make sure it's clean and dry before putting away. If it does leak, it's minimal and I attempted to insulate the electrical properly
andrhamm
Well-Known Member
I see all these lever action ball valves and can't help but think this would be the perfect application for mechanical/electrical ball valves... mount them inside the box, out of sight and add a couple more switches to the panel.
ChocolateMaltyBalls
Well-Known Member
Very nice! That's a tight space, how hot does she get with the fan on?
Cool enough to touch. I'll get my IR thermometer out next time I brew (tomorrow maybe) and check it out.
orangehero
Well-Known Member
I would recommend using high pressure reinforced silicone on the inside. The regular stuff will pop like a balloon with very little pressure, especially when it's hot.
Love your set up! Any wiring diagrams or build sheets?Thought I would share my take on this one. I mounted two chugger pumps inside my eHERMS control box. Happy how it turned out.
stratslinger
Well-Known Member
Ya know, I've read that several times before... But I've had regular 1/2" ID silicone in my box for a couple years now, and never had a problem. I'm curious if this is one of those pieces of common wisdom that gets passed down without any direct experience to back it up.
Full disclosure: the hose in my box is regular wall, not the thinner wall stuff that's come into vogue the past year or two...
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