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Poorman NEIPA

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matzou

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2016
Messages
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Location
Spain
Hello everyone,

I just finally had the pleasure to try this style of beer (not that easy in spain :p) or at least inspired by it and would like to give it a go.
Based on the website we can find the grain bill and hops used, I just wanted to double check with you guys and see what you were thinking.

For the water I aim for a ratio of 1:1 @around 100CA 100So4 100Cl and mash PH 5.3

Est Original Gravity: 1,065 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1,012 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 7,0 %
Bitterness: 55,7 IBUs
Est Color: 8,8 EBC
9,50L
Efficiency 65%

Mashed at 152f/67c

Grain:
2,50 kg Maris otter (Simpsons) (5,0 EBC) Grain 1 79,9 %
0,35 kg Flaked oats 11,2 %
0,15 kg white wheat malt 4,8 %
0,13 kg sucrose 4,2%

Hops :
7,00 g Magnum [10,50 %] - First Wort 60,0 min Hop 4 17,4 IBUs
30,00 g Galaxy [12,70 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 20,0 min Hop 6 24,9 IBUs
30,00 g Motueka [6,80 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 20,0 min Hop 7 13,3 IBUs

Dry-hop:
30,00 g Motueka [6,80 %] - Dry Hop 5,0 Days Hop 9 0,0 IBUs
30,00 g Galaxy [12,72 %] - Dry Hop 0,0 Days Hop 10 0,0 IBUs

Yeast:
Safale us-05

Now the question is do this recipe look correct to you ?
Iam having too many doubts.

Thanks :tank:
 
Drop the sugar. Part of these is not drying them out too much so they have a bit of body. The flaked/wheat being close to 20% is good. Otherwise, looks decent.

Edit: use whatever yeast you like. You can make a good NEIPA with a whole slew of different yeast. Plenty of people have used 05 and been happy.
 
Drop the sugar. Part of these is not drying them out too much so they have a bit of body.

I have not found this to be true. I have done them with and without sugar, and if everything else is right, it just does not make much difference. They can both be delicious, juicy NE IPAs with great mouthfeel either way. I have had these beers finish down to 1.006 and still be amazing. Sugar or no sugar is not what makes these beers. I also like around 20% flaked oats.

I would double your total hops and put more in the dry hop than the whirlpool.
 
Thanks everyone.
So yeah the us05 is because 1318 is almost impossible to find there. And I had a commercial example from UK with us05 Which was delicious.

I just wonder if I should drop the wheat and go full MO/oats.

And for the hops and bitterness. I forgot to add this is a 2.5gal recipe
 
Thanks everyone.
So yeah the us05 is because 1318 is almost impossible to find there. And I had a commercial example from UK with us05 Which was delicious.

I just wonder if I should drop the wheat and go full MO/oats.

And for the hops and bitterness. I forgot to add this is a 2.5gal recipe

I know, I would still double them. Had it been a 5 gal batch, I would say quadruple them. Don't increase your bitterness, though. You don't really know how bitter it's going to be since there are different ways of calculating IBUs, so you will have to dial it in over a few batches.
 
Thanks everyone.
So yeah the us05 is because 1318 is almost impossible to find there. And I had a commercial example from UK with us05 Which was delicious.

I just wonder if I should drop the wheat and go full MO/oats.

And for the hops and bitterness. I forgot to add this is a 2.5gal recipe

Can you find any other less flocculant english ale strain?
 
I just did a 1.052 OG session IPA that was Gambrinus ESB with 10% GNO and 5% Victory. A healthy amount of Centennial/Simcoe/Chinook in the whirlpool and dry hop (although still only 4.5 oz total late hops so nowhere near some other NEIPA recipes). Skipped the whirlfloc (this makes a big contribution) and just used US-05. It still came out very juicy with that NEIPA mouthfeel I have had using the more common recipe formulations and Conan.

If that's all you can get don't sweat it. I know there are a lot of theories out there as to what makes an NEIPA such and to me its:
Inclusion of some raw oats/wheat/barley or GNO, etc.
Hop variety selection
Large whirlpool hop addition (I only do a small bittering addition then everything else is knockout onwards).
Dryhop towards the end of fermentation while its still somewhat active.
Skip the whirlfloc.
 
And... your recipe looks fine to me. Since it's a bit bigger beer you could add more late hops... especially the dry hop... up to double what you have listed. A lot of people like to do a 2 stage dry hop with 1/2 of the total going in before the end of fermentation and the other half going in a few days later.
 
I have done a neipa 3 times now and changed it a bit each time but what i like and will continue to do is FWH to about 15IBU, so your 7g in a 2.5g batch is about right.

Then 4 additions of equal amounts @fo @wp 180 and dh at 4 days and at 8 days for 4 days each. I like about 90 g total at each addition for a 5g batch.

For the grains i keep it stupid simple. 75% 2 row, i think MO would be great and 25% red wheat.

For the yeast i have used 1318 which is london ale iii. If you have and want to use 05 than it should be fine but i would look into finding a similar yeast to 1318, i mean the yanks took it from the brits in the first place so i doubt they took all of it.
 
Can you find any other less flocculant english ale strain?

Yeast doesn't matter in these. The haze should not be coming from a bunch of yeast still in the beer. Go back and read the thread you linked again, people have made these using a huge range of yeast. US-05 will work just fine if that's what they have.
 
Yeast doesn't matter in these. The haze should not be coming from a bunch of yeast still in the beer. Go back and read the thread you linked again, people have made these using a huge range of yeast. US-05 will work just fine if that's what they have.

And if the OP wants to make a "just fine" beer, he should go ahead with US-05. I've made IPAs with WLP001 that have just as many hops in the hopstand, big dry hops at the end of fermentation, and then a second round, that come out crystal clear and bitter like a typical west coast IPA. So I don't think its just the amount of hops or the timing of the additions. My best guess is that there is some interaction between the flaked additions, the less floculating estery yeasts, and the type/amount of hop.
 
Hi everyone and thanks for the advices.

I finally backed up as it was my 2 batch and was scared to brew something that big.

I did a 82%MO 18%Flaked oats following the NEIPA clone of aleoftheriverwards in the end. :)

I finish with a correct gravity but way less wort than expected from the oats I guess. As well the Ph seems to be inaccurate when entering huge amount of Oats in brun water or ez water spreadsheet.

Thanks again, and i'll try to brew that with s05 as soon as I'am feeling more confident :)
 
And if the OP wants to make a "just fine" beer, he should go ahead with US-05. I've made IPAs with WLP001 that have just as many hops in the hopstand, big dry hops at the end of fermentation, and then a second round, that come out crystal clear and bitter like a typical west coast IPA. So I don't think its just the amount of hops or the timing of the additions. My best guess is that there is some interaction between the flaked additions, the less floculating estery yeasts, and the type/amount of hop.

1318 is a high floculation yeast and does very well for NEIPA's (in fact, it's probably the most frequently recommended).
 
1318 is a high floculation yeast and does very well for NEIPA's (in fact, it's probably the most frequently recommended).

Yeah, that's a good point. I think it still has an estery profile that US05 doesn't, which may be part of it too. At least that's something 1318 has in common with Conan. But I would expect that to contribute flavor and aroma, not haze.

It really doesn't make much sense to me. The only difference between the NE IPA i've made and my west coast IPAs are the flaked additions, yeast, and types (not amounts) of hops.

I don't fine my NE IPA with gelatin as I do my other IPAs, but I've seen experiments that show gelatin makes no difference in NE IPAs.
 
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