I would recommend wiping down the keg with acetone in between each stage. This helps remove a lot of the excess gunk still on the keg. This helped a lot with mine and I followed Bobby's instructions View attachment 186493View attachment 186494View attachment 186495View attachment 186496View attachment 186497
Thanks! I've got two more to do so I'm sure they will come out better than the first one did.
I often hear about people having trouble but I haven't been able to troubleshoot. How much pressure are you using? You should push hard enough that the grinder slows down a bit. Keep in mind that the coarse polish is used to remove the light scratches from the finishing pad. It's not going to be shiny. If you skipped to the fine polish, you'd be there forever making the cut. Trust the process.
Sorry if this has been asked before, but bobby_m's website doesnt load anymore, are there instructions somewhere else without reading the 50+ pages? I will if i have too though!
I got a grinder, back plate, and the gator fine pads, but no one here stocks the polishing pads and i cant even find them on amazon or anywhere really...they are still on Gators site but nothing..
Checked Home Depot and Lowes...lowes only had some other 4" and 8" polishing wheels by another company...
I also dont know what polishing compound to get, a lot of people seem to use the Mibro stuff but again no one here sells it and neither does amazon...since a lot of these articles were written many years ago i wonder if its even still around?
I think a once over with gator mediums would be a good choice then fine. You can try the fine pad on a scratched area and see how long it takes to erase the t.v scratches from a 2" x 2" area. If it's more than 5 seconds, back out to the medium.
...so i ran over it with the 50 grit and some water/goo gone for lube and it came out looking way better, quite a few tiny scratches but i figure thats expected with 50 grit.
After running over a bit of it with the Gator fine pads, im still seeing some of these scratches...they aren't entirely obvious looking straight on but they are there and you can catch them in the light.
My question is, because i started with such coarse paper, should i get some more medium grit paper over it to bring these scratches down further before i move onto the fine gator pads? I'd hate to waste my time and gator pads. Or is it expected to still see a bit of marking after using the fine?
This looks to me like you're moving over the area too quickly. It takes a quite a while to get the pads to polish, rather than scratch. I found that moving too quickly left similar marks, and that the whole process took over an hour per corny keg to get them looking good.
Also, I found some metal polish "sticks" at Lowes that work for me. They are in the tool section near the welding supplies as I recall.
.i think the 50 grit sandpaper i used was what caused a lot of the scratching, its some pretty course stuff.
It looks pretty good to me. One reason you wouldn't want to put any of the polishing compounds on the fine finishing pad is that the pad itself has embedded grit that is much coarser than the grit in the polish. I suppose if that pad is sufficiently warn out, the primary abrasive is the polishing compound so it's a way to save a little money in felt polishing pads. However, we're already spending premium money on something unnecessary so what's another $5?
Finally finished my last keg I needed for my E-Herms build. I posted pic's of the first two a little over a year ago. I forgot or maybe blocked it out of my memory of how much work this was. I don't think I will be doing this again in the near future. Thanks again Bobby for the original post and instructions.
That's a rather large turbo on top of that rather blue redblock you have there...
Finally finished, well mostly..theres a few spots that need a touch up but overall it came out good following various instructions. Because i did so many earlier passes I followed another guide similar to bobby_M's except it had you apply your rough polish with the fine gator pad and then the smooth polish with the buffing pad.
There are still some scratches from the initial 50 grit sand paper that you can see if you get up close, but honestly at this point i dont care..its too hard to see them when sanding and they dont even really pop out until i start polishing so getting them all would take forever...lesson learned not to do that on the next one if there is ever one
Its amazing how the polish makes the other areas that i thought look good look like crap.
Finished polish
I used the same gator pads, but had to used Porter Cable #2 and #5 polish because thats all my Lowes has.
How will polishing look with a keggle that has this "stamping" effect on it to remove/cover the old branding? I'm at work so I can't post a pic of my keg, but this pic I found on google sort of shows what it looks like...I'm sure you guys have seen this before.
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