Pliny the Younger Clone

[ten80]

I still disagree. DME and LME contain substantial FAN, therefore a starter is equivalent to brewing a small beer, not proofing (with sugar). A starter provides the proper medium for cell replication whereas proofing leaves yeast with depleted nutrient reserves and no sugars to ferment, leading to the shift of cells from an active to dormant (i.e., difficult to rouse, sub-optimal) state.

This is certainly the case for liquid yeast and dry yeast, although prepared in a different manner, is capable of cell replication in the proper medium.

I did not state it, but assume you understood that I'm saying that hydrated dry yeast should be pitched into a starter. I also add nutrients (DAP) to my starters to encourage cell growth under aerobic conditions (stir plate). Pitching hydrated yeast into wort doesn't contravene any manufacturer's instructions .


I won't delve into this further as I respectfully understand you have the right to disagree.

cheers,
Christophe

Edit: in response to your comment below, I simply say that this has digressed far enough and I'd be happy to discuss via private message or a thread in the yeast forum.

 

[crazyirishman34]

So you are telling me you would rather pitch spent yeast that has flocced then yeast at its prime? Dry yeast is harvested at full krausen when it is most active.

 

[trimixdiver1]

Any water chemistry tweaks?

 

[smagic14]

So I brewed this about 2 weeks ago and my fg is at 1.030 (started at 1.095 using wlp001) since I wanted this to end at 1 010 or around there I added more yeast thinking to was us05. Turns out it was montrachet wine yeast...

What should I expect with adding this yeast

 

[Ruckusz28]

She's going to be VERY dry. I've use that wine yeast and finished around 1.000 after 4-6 months of conditioning. By the time the yeast fully attenuates, the hop aroma may be subdued or gone all together. You may have a very nice 12% or higher barley wine on your hands. It might not be bad, but it won't be like PTY.

I'd chalk it up for experience and let it sit in a carboy until the gravity stabilizes. You don't want to bottle too early or you'll face some over-carbonation or bottle bombs ruining your day.

 

[kal]

FWIW, adding more yeast near the end of fermentation rarely works as expected given that the oxygen has been depleted (and you don't want to add any at this point) and most of the short chain sugars will be gone. The new yeast just isn't going to be very happy about what you're asking them to do, and will likely not do what you want them to do.

Working yeast has "momentum". You need to get it started working under ideal conditions and then not have it stall near the end or you can get stuck for good. Think of it like a car driving through thick mud in the road and the mud's getting deeper as you go along: If you hit that mud with forward momentum you'll be able to drive farther than if you just plunk a car down in the middle of where the mud's it's already thick and deep (you'll just spin your tires if you hit the gas from a standstill). Yeast is the same way (yeast = car, wort = mud).

You can try adding new yeast (you already did), but it's rarely ever a working solution. You need to look at what you did wrong the first time and fix for next time. Usually it's (a) underpitching, (b) not oxygenating enough (~120 seconds of pure O2 at 1 Lpm for this beer works well, followed by another 60-120 second dose 12-18 hours after pitching).

Temperature stability is also important. You want it stable in the mid 60's for about a week and then raise it to ~70F for another week or so to finish out. Don't be afraid to go to 72F or even 74F towards the end as you're getting those last few points. Again, temp stability is important. You don't want night/day swings as the yeast may just fall out / go to sleep if the temp drops.

Kal

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

So I brewed this about 2 weeks ago and my fg is at 1.030 (started at 1.095 using wlp001) since I wanted this to end at 1 010 or around there I added more yeast thinking to was us05. Turns out it was montrachet wine yeast...

What should I expect with adding this yeast

I've tried doing this a few times, including reoxygenating the chit out of the now beer. Never worked. With that said, not with wine yeast.

 

[user 229637]

Is the PTY 2.0 recipe a 10 gal or 5 gal batch? Thanks

 

[kal]

Is the PTY 2.0 recipe a 10 gal or 5 gal batch? Thanks

Most definitely a ~5 gallon batch. It would be impossible to get a 1.089 beer out of the ~19 pounds of grain in the recipe.

(You'll still need to adjust the amounts based on the efficiency of your specific setup to hit 1.089)

Good luck!

Kal

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

Attenuation low. My fault. But I used Imperial Yeast 'Citus' so the tangerine and citrus flavors go better with a maltier ipa, imho. Hop resins are removing my enamel. 1st dry hop in..

View attachment 1480203477096.jpg

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

Awesome beer! Couple weeks bottled now...needed to slightly age.

View attachment 1482959604972.jpg

 

[kwoodsetup]

Hey guys. I'm looking to scale this up to an ~10gallon (40L) recipe. I've based it on the 6 gallon recipe from Bertus. Everything was input into beersmith, scale recipe tool used and then adjustments made to get the percentages adjusted. The main thing I'm wondering about is if the AAU from the HopShots and other hop additions seem about right or if there are any other things I should look at.

Dextrose planned to be added during fermentation. Potentially as two staged additions. My efficiency has been quite low on the last few beers but I'm planning this as the first brew on a new larger rims setup I've been building so hoping my efficiency will be better.

Any commentary would be appreciated if I overlooked or didn't search through the thread in the right place. Thanks!

Batch Size: 40L
Est OG: 1.090
Est FG: 1.017
Est Mash Efficiency: 70%
Boil: 90 min
Mash: 75 min - 75 min @ 145F - 10min @ 155F
Yeast: WLP001 - Big Starter ~650b cells needed

13.50 kg Pale Malt - 86.7 %
0.60 kg Cara-Pils - 3.9 %
0.32 kg C40L - 2.1 %
1.15 kg Dextrose - 7.4 % - Added to fermentation

55.00 ml HopShot - Boil 90.0 min
17.00 g CTZ [15.50 %] - Boil 45.0 min
8.00 ml HopShot - Boil 45.0 min
71.00 g Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 30.0 min
125.00 g Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 0.0 min
75.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 0.0 min
50.00 g Amarillo [9.20 %] - Boil 0.0 min
25.00 g Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 0.0 min

Dry Hop:

25.00 g Amarillo [9.20 %] - Dry Hop 1.0 Days
25.00 g Simcoe [13.00 %] - Dry Hop 1.0 Days
25.00 g Warrior [15.00 %] - Dry Hop 1.0 Days
50.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Dry Hop 2.0 Days
50.00 g CTZ [15.50 %] - Dry Hop 2.0 Days
25.00 g Chinook [13.00 %] - Dry Hop 3.0 Days
25.00 g Simcoe [13.00 %] - Dry Hop 3.0 Days
12.00 g Warrior [15.00 %] - Dry Hop 3.0 Days
50.00 g Amarillo - Dry Hop 4.0 Days
50.00 g Simcoe [13.00 %] - Dry Hop 4.0 Days

 

[chrilr]

Hey guys. I'm looking to scale this up to an ~10gallon (40L) recipe. I've based it on the 6 gallon recipe from Bertus. Everything was input into beersmith, scale recipe tool used and then adjustments made to get the percentages adjusted. The main thing I'm wondering about is if the AAU from the HopShots and other hop additions seem about right or if there are any other things I should look at.

Dextrose planned to be added during fermentation. Potentially as two staged additions. My efficiency has been quite low on the last few beers but I'm planning this as the first brew on a new larger rims setup I've been building so hoping my efficiency will be better.

Any commentary would be appreciated if I overlooked or didn't search through the thread in the right place. Thanks!

Batch Size: 40L
Est OG: 1.090
Est FG: 1.017
Est Mash Efficiency: 70%
Boil: 90 min
Mash: 75 min - 75 min @ 145F - 10min @ 155F
Yeast: WLP001 - Big Starter ~650b cells needed

13.50 kg Pale Malt - 86.7 %
0.60 kg Cara-Pils - 3.9 %
0.32 kg C40L - 2.1 %
1.15 kg Dextrose - 7.4 % - Added to fermentation

55.00 ml HopShot - Boil 90.0 min
17.00 g CTZ [15.50 %] - Boil 45.0 min
8.00 ml HopShot - Boil 45.0 min
71.00 g Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 30.0 min
125.00 g Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 0.0 min
75.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 0.0 min
50.00 g Amarillo [9.20 %] - Boil 0.0 min
25.00 g Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 0.0 min

Dry Hop:

25.00 g Amarillo [9.20 %] - Dry Hop 1.0 Days
25.00 g Simcoe [13.00 %] - Dry Hop 1.0 Days
25.00 g Warrior [15.00 %] - Dry Hop 1.0 Days
50.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Dry Hop 2.0 Days
50.00 g CTZ [15.50 %] - Dry Hop 2.0 Days
25.00 g Chinook [13.00 %] - Dry Hop 3.0 Days
25.00 g Simcoe [13.00 %] - Dry Hop 3.0 Days
12.00 g Warrior [15.00 %] - Dry Hop 3.0 Days
50.00 g Amarillo - Dry Hop 4.0 Days
50.00 g Simcoe [13.00 %] - Dry Hop 4.0 Days

Do you have an update? What was your fg

Looking to make this soon

 

[Tyler B]

Just saw a story in my Google recommended stories about this beer being release in bottles soon so I decided to do a quick search here and sure enough... You guys are brewing this one too. Anyone try this recently?

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

https://beerstreetjournal.com/russian-river-pliny-the-younger-bottles-2020/

 

[Tyler B]

That's the article!

 

[kal]

Haven't brewed this one recently but when I did it turned out great! Required a lot of hopshots:

More pics here: https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/pages/russian-river-pliny-the-younger-triple-ipa

Kal