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JimX

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Hello all, I am wondering if there is a program out there that can tell you possible recipes based on the ingredients you have in stock. For instance if I input my...

Grains in stock as: 2row, German Pilsner Malt, White Wheat Malt, Roasted Barley, and Flaked Barley.

Hops as: Fuggles, Hallertau, Kent Goldings, US Golding, Tettanger, Cascade, Columbus, Centennial, Northern Brewer, tiny bit of Chinook and Simcoe.

Yeast as Safale s-04, Safale us-05, and Safbrew wb-06.

Then it basically reduces my results to available recipes utilizing any combo of these specific ingredients that I have left in inventory.

Please let me know what you guys think, any and all replies would be welcome and greatly appreciated.
 
Beersmith has support for this kind of a search.

Although I would say, that with so many easy substitutions on ingredients, sometimes you are best searching based upon your most limited ingredient, and subbing those others in that recipe.

Good luck,
--LexusChris
 
Thank you LexusChris and GilSwillBasementBrews....but what do I do or better yet how do I build some sort of a recipe out of the specific ingredients I have on hand. The reason I ask is because this is ALL we have available to us where we are located there are no other options. :(
 
As a general rule the yeast is most often going to determine the kind of beer you can make. You are not, for example, going to be able to make any lagers or Belgian beers (though I suppose you could do a pseudo-lager or hybrid with the 05). So pretty much you're talking English ales, American ales, and German hefeweizen if I understand the description of 06 correctly. The base malts and hops you have available would get you through a range of those styles. With the roasted and flaked barley you can make a dry stout. You could toast some 2-row for an additional character malt, which I understand is a little like biscuit/victory. The main concern is you not having access to any crystal malts. There is an article here that describes how to make something that would be similar in flavor. Can't comment on how close it gets you to actual crystal, but at least it's something.
 
Ok so basically I am simply limited to mainly English ales, American ales, and German hef's then, ok that's not too bad, still a pretty good selection then. And yes you are correct chickypad at assuming the 06, that was my mistake in typing quickly, didn't spell it out.

The main problem in moving out here to South America is only having the 3 yeast for now. The Safale s-04, Safale us-05, and Safbrew wb-06
 
I am not the best recipe builder but, heres a brown ale. Alot depends on SRM of Roasted Barley you have.

10 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US Rahr (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 96.4 %
6.0 oz Roasted Barley (Crisp) (695.0 SRM) Grain 2 3.6 %
1.00 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 3 18.1 IBUs
0.50 oz Cascade [5.50 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 4 4.9 IBUs
1.0 pkg SafAle English Ale (DCL/Fermentis #S-04) or #S-05

You could make a pale ale or IPA, but you need some crystal malts. Check out how to roast them.
 
Right on thank you Brewsncrabs I think I am going to try that out just for fun, see how it turns out.
 
You could make literally anything with those options. Except maybe a kolsch or saison where the yeast is the biggest factor. What do you want to make? IPA? Barleywine? Blonde?

I'd be happy to help once I have an idea of what you're looking for with style, strength, srm, etc... :)
 
Thank you theheadonthedoor, in fact I have been dying to make a barleywine but don't have any crystal malts or maris otter and thought I needed at least one of those.
 
I'd be happy to help once I have an idea of what you're looking for with style, strength, srm, etc... :)

Well I guess I have narrowed it down to (although still very broad range) simple ales, reds, light browns, I'd say in the 4-22 SRM range, with ABV of 5-7% and IBU between 15-45. Like I said....broad range haha
 
Although I see the benefit of crystal malt in a barleywine, that's not to say you couldn't make a damn tasty barleywine out of some 2 row, roasted barley, and a little wheat. :)

And what do you for sure want to make? It won't be hard to make a recipe of any style so long as you know what you want. Answer these other questions and I'll do what I can.


How bitter do you want it?
What is your efficiency?
How do you want your body/mouthfeel?
How important is aroma?
What sort of flavors would you like? (i.e. malty, citrusy, boozy, spicy, and whatnot)
And what is your setup as far as mashtun, boil pot, fermenter, etc.?
 
No crystal malts here so you got me curious, if you care to elaborate on this bobbrews.

Well, crystal malts add sweetness, richer malt flavor, and color. They can help to contribute balance and complexity in some styles. However, for an inherently simple dry-bitter-pale style of beer like the AIPA (or even the APA in some cases), you do not necessarily need the added sweetness, maltiness, or color. The hops are the star and you don't want to muddle them. Of course you don't want to brew hop juice either so you really have to know what you are doing. Some people might enjoy what the added crystal malt brings to the table, but I know many enthusiasts who totally nix crystal from their brewdays and brew damn fine hop forward beers. I personally use a tiny bit of crystal for my APAs, but most of my IPAs have zero crystal malt. If you're a true fan of the AIPA then you probably won't miss the crystal. If you still enjoy some of that added malt complexity, but don't want the sweetness or color per se, then just incorporate something like Munich Malt.
 
Like bob I tend to use very little if any crystal in my APA/IPA's. What will be trickier are things like ambers and more complex browns/porters/stouts. You can get the colors by adjusting the roasted barley amounts, but without the different L crystals and malts like munich/vienna you're not going to get the same range of flavors. I would play around with those techniques for toasting your own and see what you can come up with to add some complexity. You're still out of luck as far as many styles with specific yeast requirements, but you should still have a range of good beers you can make.
 
Thanks bobbrews and chikypad with the inputs, I am definitely considering all options.
 
How bitter do you want it?
What is your efficiency?
How do you want your body/mouthfeel?
How important is aroma?
What sort of flavors would you like? (i.e. malty, citrusy, boozy, spicy, and whatnot)
And what is your setup as far as mashtun, boil pot, fermenter, etc.?

I will try to answer these in short direct answers and to the best of my knowledge so please bare with me if something sounds off or incorrect. I say we go for it and brew up a decent barleywine.


-bitter: between 40-45 IBU sounds good.

-my current efficiency seems to be all over the place but I'm going to say avg of 70% perhaps I can post a couple screenshots below.

-body/mouthfeel: is a tough one for me to explain but I guess a rich full flavored not too hoppy but not overwhelmingly malty either, between 7-9% abv

-aroma: on a scale of 1-10 can be around 4 of importance.

-flavors: in our barleywine scenario I would like to say maybe boozy, thick, malty, not citrusy or spicy

-setup: 10Gal HLT and mash tun, 30Gal Kettle and conical. I'll try to include a couple pics.
 
Below is the brewstand and 2nd pic is my cold room kept at a constant 65-66°

20140622_215423.jpg


2014-07-01 11.15.25.jpg
 
Here's a screenshot of the last 2 brewed in regards to efficiency. The 9 gallon is a hefe and the 13 gallons a medium brown ale.

2014-07-16 09.01.50.jpg


2014-07-16 09.24.37.jpg
 
Thank you GilSwillBasementBrews to be honest it had crossed my mind but never really gave it much consideration or looked into it in attempts to avoid more steps to my brew process. But it seems it is an option I might need to consider and would definitely make an impact, so I might try at least a pound like he says in the video which by the way was pretty informative, thanks again for the link.
 
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