Please Help-IIPA Overly Sweet

[tarcrarc]

Recently brewed a IIPA. The problem is that it tastes overly sweet for my liking. What is confusing is that it fermented down to 1.009 and I went way high on the bittering! Can't figure it out. The bitterness ratio is 1.821. One thing I can say is that I use a SS hop spider as is shown below. Didn't think it would throw off my numbers that bad. Any thoughts out there?

Here is the recipe

 

[JimRausch]

Based on what I can read of your recipe, it shouldn't be sweet. No crystal and a chit load of hops. OK FG, maybe not as dry as some, but not high enough to be sweet. Depending on how long it's been packaged, perhaps not enough time for the CO2 to give you enough carbonic acid bite yet? You could always hit her with more dry hops, but I think I would wait a bit.

 

[day_trippr]

Four ounces of Magnum @60 for a 4.25 gallon batch (!) should result in a palette peeling beer.
Looking at the pic I'm betting that hop spider was waaaaay undersize for that big a hop charge and the hop utilization was wicked low.

The beer can be fixed with a cup or two of hop tea...

Cheers!

 

[tarcrarc]

Four ounces of Magnum @60 for a 4.25 gallon batch (!) should result in a palette peeling beer.
Looking at the pic I'm betting that hop spider was waaaaay undersize for that big a hop charge and the hop utilization was wicked low.

The beer can be fixed with a cup or two of hop tea...

Cheers!

That must be what it is. Nothing else makes sense. Never had that problem before. I use a Grainfather so I need to find a good way to use that much hops and not clog.

 

[day_trippr]

If the ibu punch from 4 ounces of magnum is something you do often you might consider hop extract...

Cheers!

 

[snowtiger1987]

That spider appears to small for the boil. Next time use bags or get a bigger diameter one.

 

[couchsending]

You can use that many hops in the Grainfather and not have it clog. In fact I think the more hops the merrier
In the Grainfather. They act as a better filter and if you recirculate for a little while into the GF you’ll end up with much cleaner wort going into the FV. The flow might be rather slow but to me the clarity of wort is worth it. I’ve got a hop spider I used twice, commando since then. Over 100 batches of hoppy beers probably.

 

[tarcrarc]

You can use that many hops in the Grainfather and not have it clog. In fact I think the more hops the merrier
In the Grainfather. They act as a better filter and if you recirculate for a little while into the GF you’ll end up with much cleaner wort going into the FV. The flow might be rather slow but to me the clarity of wort is worth it. I’ve got a hop spider I used twice, commando since then. Over 100 batches of hoppy beers probably.

I use pellets. My guess is you are referring to whole hop?

 

[Bostrows128]

I use pellets. My guess is you are referring to whole hop?

Watch David Heath on YT, He does hoppy beers and he brews on a GrainFather... He has no problems.

 

[couchsending]

I use pellets. My guess is you are referring to whole hop?

Nope pellets... I think I’ve done 8oz of pellets commando with no issue.. yes sometimes it will slow the flow but never a complete clog. More hops always equals cleaner wort too.

I also don’t use the CFC anymore either.

 

[Comfort_Zone]

Hop utilization definitely. FG won't tell you much about perceived sweetness or body. Also at that amount you're getting diminishing returns, you could cut the magnum down quite a bit.

 

[tarcrarc]

Nope pellets... I think I’ve done 8oz of pellets commando with no issue.. yes sometimes it will slow the flow but never a complete clog. More hops always equals cleaner wort too.

I also don’t use the CFC anymore either.

Sorry, what is commando?

 

[couchsending]

Sorry, what is commando?

Sorry, American slang...

No hop spider, no bag, just throw em in the kettle.

 

[Metalchef1]

Nope pellets... I think I’ve done 8oz of pellets commando with no issue.. yes sometimes it will slow the flow but never a complete clog. More hops always equals cleaner wort too.

I also don’t use the CFC anymore either.

What do you mean by that? Aren't neipa cloudy? And aren't they cloudy because of all the hops that go into them?

 

[tarcrarc]

Sorry, American slang...

No hop spider, no bag, just throw em in the kettle.

Okay-cool! I’ll give it (commando) a try. One less thing to clean. Probably help my aroma as well. Thanks!

 

[tarcrarc]

Okay-cool! I’ll give it (commando) a try. One less thing to clean. Probably help my aroma as well. Thanks!

Do you remove your ball valve on the grainfather right where the flow control knob is to clean it after a brew day?

 

[couchsending]

I completely removed
that check valve or whatever it’s called (the ball and the spring) It’s very prone to clogging. Removed it before the first batch.

 

[couchsending]

What do you mean by that? Aren't neipa cloudy? And aren't they cloudy because of all the hops that go into them?

The cleaner the wort the better your beer will taste for longer IMHO. You can make permanently hazy beer that is crystal clear at the start of fermentation, even rather clear at the end of fermentation. Haze will last longer, beer will be more aromatic, and you will notice much less degradation over time, not to mention taste better and be more pleasurable to drink.

 

[Metalchef1]

The cleaner the wort the better your beer will taste for longer IMHO. You can make permanently hazy beer that is crystal clear at the start of fermentation, even rather clear at the end of fermentation. Haze will last longer, beer will be more aromatic, and you will notice much less degradation over time, not to mention taste better and be more pleasurable to drink.

http://scottjanish.com/researching-new-england-ipa-neipa-haze/

Interesting article...

I'm still confused..
Chill haze itself which it sounds like you are talking about as you mention clear wort and clear ferments but haze later?? Doesn't have any flavor or any effect on flavor.
Chill haze is if I'm not mistaken usually or is always caused by oxygen interacting with polyphenols and tannins to create the haze and oxygen in beer is considered bad as it is a spoilage medium (that being said it's also considered good in sours and aged beers).

And this is just a personal preference for me.... I like my beers to be crystal clear... I prefer KrystalWeiss over hefe etc... I go through multiple additions of various items for fining as well as cold crashing. Always been a thing with me to have perfectly clear beer..

 

[couchsending]

http://scottjanish.com/researching-new-england-ipa-neipa-haze/

Interesting article...

I'm still confused..
Chill haze itself which it sounds like you are talking about as you mention clear wort and clear ferments but haze later?? Doesn't have any flavor or any effect on flavor.
Chill haze is if I'm not mistaken usually or is always caused by oxygen interacting with polyphenols and tannins to create the haze and oxygen in beer is considered bad as it is a spoilage medium (that being said it's also considered good in sours and aged beers).

And this is just a personal preference for me.... I like my beers to be crystal clear... I prefer KrystalWeiss over hefe etc... I go through multiple additions of various items for fining as well as cold crashing. Always been a thing with me to have perfectly clear beer..

Nope not talking about chill haze. Talking about hop oil / protein haze.

I use kettle finings and will cold crash in the fermenter to as low as I can go while maintaining head pressure and not wasting Co2. If I’m force carbing it will be slowly at 32-35 for as long as it needs. I don’t fine in the FV for hoppy beers but will for some other styles.

I don’t personally agree with a lot of Scott Janish’s methods. I’ve explored them all and find high protein adjuncts, lots of CaCl, and dry hopping early to produce subpar hoppy/hazy beer.

 

[Metalchef1]

Nope not talking about chill haze. Talking about hop oil / protein haze.

I use kettle finings and will cold crash in the fermenter to as low as I can go while maintaining head pressure and not wasting Co2. If I’m force carbing it will be slowly at 32-35 for as long as it needs. I don’t fine in the FV for hoppy beers but will for some other styles.

I don’t personally agree with a lot of Scott Janish’s methods. I’ve explored them all and find high protein adjuncts, lots of CaCl, and dry hopping early to produce subpar hoppy/hazy beer.

Alright so permanent haze from hopping... But isn't that by definition not a "clean" beer? As hazy is not "clean"? Or do clean and clear here mean 2 different things?

 

[Metalchef1]

You are taking about clean of flavor not clear in appearance?

 

[couchsending]

I was referring to clean wort going into the fermenter... free of hot and cold break. Depending on the oil and polyphenol content of the hops you’re using some worts will be clearer than others. Also depending on the yeast you’re using you might even have relatively clear beer after fermentation is complete. Purposely trying to create haze at every step generally won’t turn out clean, smooth, bright enjoyable to drink beer in the long run. (Yes hazy can be clean) You end up with astringent, muddy beer that oxidizes much faster.

Use kettle finings
Keep as much trub out of the fermenter as possible
Get as much yeast out of the beer before packaging as possible without damaging the flavor/aroma. (Cold crash and/or light fining)

 

[Metalchef1]

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