• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Plastic vs Stainless Mash Tun

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
because I dislike the way misinformation like yours spreads on the internet.
.

You asked the reasons I like my stainless tun. I gave those reasons. I don't suggest that you or anyone else has to agree with me. But it does seem that a lot of professional quality setups sold by major distributors use stainless for all 3 pots, so perhaps there are some other people who are perfectly willing to spend the bucks to go that route.

In your response to my opinion you seem to be saying that there is only one right way. And unless everyone else does things the same way you do, they are wrong. Perhaps differing opinions threaten you?

Ever think of trying a prescription for xanax?
 
You asked the reasons I like my stainless tun. I gave those reasons. I don't suggest that you or anyone else has to agree with me. But it does seem that a lot of professional quality setups sold by major distributors use stainless for all 3 pots, so perhaps there are some other people who are perfectly willing to spend the bucks to go that route.

In your response to my opinion you seem to be saying that there is only one right way. And unless everyone else does things the same way you do, they are wrong. Perhaps differing opinions threaten you?

Ever think of trying a prescription for xanax?

I asked for your reasoning because you stated objectively that stainless steel mash tuns are better than coolers. I then responded to your reasons point-by-point to show why they are not valid reasons for preferring one over the other. My goal is to not lead new brewers (this is the beginners forum, after all) into spending $175 on a brand new stainless steel tun because of your faulty reasoning.

I have said repeatedly that I don't even have a preference of stainless steel vs. coolers. I use both at different times and in different situations. However, none of the reasons you cited for preferring a SS mash tun actually make sense (except maybe the thermometer even though you can install one in a cooler), and they were stated as objective facts even though they were not. You were actually spreading disinformation to new brewers who don't know better, which is what I sought to counteract.

If you think using a stainless steel mash tun improves your efficiency, well--I suppose great for you. It doesn't, though, and you shouldn't go around telling other people the choice of construction materials makes a difference in efficiency.
 
Pratzie makes a lot of good points and I agree with virtually everything in his post. But I think the key in this discussion is in where you see yourself going with your brewing.

As for me, I want to be able to experiment with stepped mashes and that is what drove my decision to go with a stainless mash tun. It is very difficult to step the mash temp up from 110 to 160 over several steps without using heat applied from a burner. If you don't see yourself wanting to mess with that then a cooler mash tun will serve you very well for much less money than stainless. However, if you think you are likely to want to fiddle around with stepped mashes, then stainless may be your best choice.

On the subject of holding heat, I have found my stainless mash tun holds the mash at close to optimum temps really well. I do usually move it onto the burner on very low heat at about the 30 minute mark to keep the mash at 150 or above. Once it comes back up to about 152-153 I turn the heat off and it holds just fine until it is time to drain it. A 90 minute mash would require a couple more shots from the burner. I've been doing this with one burner. But I still prefer to add heat rather than adding more hot water and ending up with a really soupy mash. Generally I have found the stainless tun to be superior to the picnic cooler I was using before. (But this may simply be due to the quality of cooler I was using.)

I find myself in the same boat. I've been brewing English ales and so far have not needed more than a stainless steel hot water tun, a 5 gallon Home Depot plastic insulated mash tun, and a 10 gallon stainless steel boil kettle. I tricked out the mash tun with a thermometer, so I could monitor the mash temperature, and my system has worked very well: I only lose about a degree or two over a 90 minute mash.

I've been thinking about brewing higher gravity beers and thought that I might do the same thing to a ten gallon plastic cooler, so that I could brew American ales, as well as porters, and stouts. I've also been researching how to do step mashes and decoction mashes for German beers - and that's what led me to decide to get a stainless steel mash tun and use direct heat to adjust mash temperatures. I can also use my hot water tun as a decoction pot, at this point, because there is a thermometer attached.

It really does depend on what you want to do. I could do the above using hot water infusions in a plastic tun, but using a stainless pot with direct heat achieves the same results and just seems easier, insofar as there is one less step vis-a-vis adding hot or cold to achieve a temperature step.

As far as cost goes, the metal pot is about twice as much as the plastic tun - but I can heat my heat my strike water in the pot and use my hot water tun both for sparging and as a decoction mash pot - so I figure it's about even.
 
I find myself in the same boat. .

It really does depend on what you want to do. I could do the above using hot water infusions in a plastic tun, but using a stainless pot with direct heat achieves the same results and just seems easier, insofar as there is one less step vis-a-vis adding hot or cold to achieve a temperature step.

As far as cost goes, the metal pot is about twice as much as the plastic tun - but I can heat my heat my strike water in the pot and use my hot water tun both for sparging and as a decoction mash pot - so I figure it's about even.

Just put up an Irish red within the last hour using my stainless mash tun. My beers have been good but as my skills have advanced I've also found some flaws in my system. I have found that my stainless steel tun works OK as long as outside temps are fairly warm. Since the weather has turned cooler I've had more trouble holding mash temps steady. Also, I've added a domed false bottom and that seems to inhibit heat transfer from the burner.

To hold the heat better I have decided to wrap the mash tun with insulation. I am also looking at perhaps buying a pump so I can move the wort through coil in the hot liquor tank (RIMS) to get better temperature control.

The bottom line? You can do anything you need to do with a cooler tun if it is big enough to meet your batch sizes. Stepped mashes will most likely require either a pump and some plumbing or the decision to go with decoction.
 
Agreed. The main reason I decided on a stainless steel tun is that I'd like to try some decoction mashes this spring and summer. I'll probably keep and use my insulated cooler for single infusion mashes. It only lost 2 degrees over 90 minutes the last time that I used it in cold weather.
 
Agreed. The main reason I decided on a stainless steel tun is that I'd like to try some decoction mashes this spring and summer. I'll probably keep and use my insulated cooler for single infusion mashes. It only lost 2 degrees over 90 minutes the last time that I used it in cold weather.

Sounds like that is a good piece of equipment. I'd hang on to that one too!

Cheers! :mug:
 
Some prefer SS for the capability of direct heating. I wanted a bottom draining tun so I could use a grant so I went with a Cooler and RIMs tube....I could never bottom drain a direct fired tun.
 
what about plastic seeping into mash at such temperatures?


I know coolers have thicker plastic inside than plastic water bottles but I am sure there must be some seepage at 150F for an hour long mash.

Study Details

• 16 plastic water bottles were exposed to different temperatures: 39°F (4°C), 77°F (25°C), and 158°F (70°C).
• Levels of BPA and antimony were checked after one, two, and four weeks.
• Antimony concentrations in the water from plastic water-bottles averaged 3.18 ng/L at 39.2°F (4°C), and 6.88ng/L at 77°F (25°C).
• At 158°F (70°C) (about the temperature in a car on a hot summer day), levels of antimony in water increased significantly to 38.5 ng /L.
• Levels of antimony in one of the sixteen water bottles increased to 2604 ng/L.
 
what about plastic seeping into mash at such temperatures?


I know coolers have thicker plastic inside than plastic water bottles but I am sure there must be some seepage at 150F for an hour long mash.

Study Details

• 16 plastic water bottles were exposed to different temperatures: 39°F (4°C), 77°F (25°C), and 158°F (70°C).
• Levels of BPA and antimony were checked after one, two, and four weeks.
• Antimony concentrations in the water from plastic water-bottles averaged 3.18 ng/L at 39.2°F (4°C), and 6.88ng/L at 77°F (25°C).
• At 158°F (70°C) (about the temperature in a car on a hot summer day), levels of antimony in water increased significantly to 38.5 ng /L.
• Levels of antimony in one of the sixteen water bottles increased to 2604 ng/L.

There are lots of different plastics used for different purposes. Your water bottle study is from one type of plastic but coolers use a completely different plastic so your study does not apply. Try to find a study that uses the same type of plastic.
 
There are lots of different plastics used for different purposes. Your water bottle study is from one type of plastic but coolers use a completely different plastic so your study does not apply. Try to find a study that uses the same type of plastic.

And has anyone mashed for 1, 2 or 4 weeks?
 
Back
Top