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Pitchable no starter white lab"packet"

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JONNYROTTEN

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Went to the LHBS today.I bought 2 "Packets" of wlp001,They said you no longer need to do a starter with the "new" White labs.Something about a new way white labs do things 100% viable yeast??? Is there any truth to this? Brewing tomorrow.Can post a pic of the "packet", not a vial, if it helps
 
I've had fantastic results using the PurePitch packet into a sub 1.060 wort. Love 'em. There's also a few newer yeast companies that have 200B cans and what not, enjoy thems as well.
 
Awesome.Havent seen any threads on a non starter liquid yeast.It took about an hour and a half to get on ice on a 60 deg day.Semi expanded packet.Hoping that's not an issue.The packet came from a fridge and was still coldish to the touch
 
The liquid yeast have always said that they are direct pitch in a wort of 1.060 or less. I haven't seen anything about what the cell count is supposed to be, but if it is still 100 billion that is still underpitching even if there are more viable yeast. It just means you will need a smaller starter.

I might push it a little by pitching into a little higher gravity wort but not by much. I do starters now for anything greater than 1.040, so I might stretch that to 1.050 or so before making a starter.
 
Just heard a podcast about it. They are made because they are propagated in the same package so there is zero handling.

Also, you never needed a starter with WL
 
For what its worth, I used the new packaging(wlp001) in an IPA I just brewed. I was worried because I didnt make a starter and the O.G was 1.080. The brew finished at 1.018. That being said I just bottled yesterday and have yet to taste the finished product.
 
One thing that is bugging me is their Q&A mentions 2.5 billion cells per ml. The pure pitch package contains 35ml. So how can it be over 100 billion cells as stated on the pure pitch package? What am I missing?
 
i emailed white labs regarding this and here's the reply...

white labs.png
 
The yeast is propagated in a giant sealed bag. Then the individual packs are cut out of the giant pack by heat sealing the edges. The yeast never sees the light of day until you cut it to pitch. It is supposed to double the shelf life but its still going to lose viability over time but at a much slower rate.

With that said, you will still benefit by making a starter for anything over a 1.030 OG.
 
Well then...I brewed yesterday, pitching this morning.1.061 OG.I didn't by any DME because I was told at LHBS I didn't need a starter with this yeast because its close to 100%viable.LHBS is closed today.Im Actually closer to 6 gallons..We'll see how it turns out.

Ill call WL when they open today and ask for Christina Porn.Im sure it will be a long hard answer that will be hard to swallow,but in the end she'll clean up this mess:ban::eek::ban::eek::ban:
 
I called WL.They said anything over 1.040 should have a starter or 2 packets.So there you go, givin mis information by LHBS.Ill pitch the 2 packets in one bucket and us05 in the other..Kills me to dump $18 dollars in yeast in one bucket.Will be reusing this slurry for a long time to come.
 
I Ended up pitching a WL packet wlp001 and a 1/2 packet us05 in each bucket.Its cranking away 36 hours later.I wanted to try wlp001 on its own but oh well...
 
I called WL.They said anything over 1.040 should have a starter or 2 packets.So there you go, givin mis information by LHBS.Ill pitch the 2 packets in one bucket and us05 in the other..Kills me to dump $18 dollars in yeast in one bucket.Will be reusing this slurry for a long time to come.


It has always boggled my mind that the yeast manufacturers all label their packages as direct pitch, enough to ferment a 5 gallon batch. Then if you search their websites or call them they will recommend making a starter for anything over 1.040 or so.

I rarely make a beer lower than 1.040 so I need to make a starter almost every time.

In answer to the do I need to make a starter I usually say that the yeast will ferment your beer, but if you want your beer to be the best it can be, make the starter.

Nitpickers: That is for most cases, so don't reply about purposely underpitching for certain flavor profiles...
 
It has always boggled my mind that the yeast manufacturers all label their packages as direct pitch, enough to ferment a 5 gallon batch. Then if you search their websites or call them they will recommend making a starter for anything over 1.040 or so.

I rarely make a beer lower than 1.040 so I need to make a starter almost every time.

In answer to the do I need to make a starter I usually say that the yeast will ferment your beer, but if you want your beer to be the best it can be, make the starter.

Nitpickers: That is for most cases, so don't reply about purposely underpitching for certain flavor profiles...

Gotta love the nitpickers, and the disclaimer.

I don't know why they can't just double the amount of yeast in the package. It's like getting a bag of potato chips and opening it to see that 2/3 of the bag is filled with air.
 
It has always boggled my mind that the yeast manufacturers all label their packages as direct pitch, enough to ferment a 5 gallon batch. Then if you search their websites or call them they will recommend making a starter for anything over 1.040 or so.

The same reason the dry yeast manufacturers put instructions to just sprinkle dry yeast direct. To make it user friendly for newbies. They probably figure if you stick with it and get more knowledgeable then you will research ways to make your beer better and find the proper way to get the most out of their product.

Unfortunately a good percentage see the instructions on the packs and think thats the best way to use it.
 
It has always boggled my mind that the yeast manufacturers all label their packages as direct pitch, enough to ferment a 5 gallon batch. Then if you search their websites or call them they will recommend making a starter for anything over 1.040 or so.

I rarely make a beer lower than 1.040 so I need to make a starter almost every time.

In answer to the do I need to make a starter I usually say that the yeast will ferment your beer, but if you want your beer to be the best it can be, make the starter.

Nitpickers: That is for most cases, so don't reply about purposely underpitching for certain flavor profiles...

The same reason the dry yeast manufacturers put instructions to just sprinkle dry yeast direct. To make it user friendly for newbies. They probably figure if you stick with it and get more knowledgeable then you will research ways to make your beer better and find the proper way to get the most out of their product.

Unfortunately a good percentage see the instructions on the packs and think thats the best way to use it.

Well my rant was not entirely accurate. I just read an old White Labs vial. It states: "If O.G. is over 1.070, if the yeast is past its "best before" date, or a faster start is desired, a 1-2 pint activator can be made.

They don't "recommend" making the starter, the O.G. limit seems high and the "activator" size seems small.......
 
Always make a starter. Its not just for yeast growth. It also gets them revitalized and ready to go again. Your beer will still ferment down with or without a starter, but it's going to be better with a starter. Aren't we all doing this to make the best possible beer? If it's too much work , just go to the gas station and pick up a 6 pack of Lite and be done with it.
 
Just finished brewing a Stone Enjoy By clone. Used three PurePitch packages of WLP007 Dry English Ale to make a 3L starter for an 11 gallon batch.
Threw it into the fermenter at 65 degrees and after about 7 hours it's getting after it! Estimated yeast count around 600B according to BeerSmith calcs.

2015-11-20 19.35.25.jpg
 

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