Pilot light leaks. Please help.

[lexingtondover]

I was hoping someone can help me fix a pilot light leak on my Brutus 10. The flame doesn't actually engulf the unit, but the leak shows when I spray soapy water on the connection. I am using a Honeywell Q314A pilot. So a few questions:

1. Is this as good as it gets? or do I need to eliminate all leakage? I feel like with this tube, orifice and compression nut, I don't see how this will ever be air tight.
2. If this does need to be airtight, any tips on how to re-install it? The manufacturer instructions aren't working for me.
3. The directions say to "cut off old compression fitting" and replace it with a new one every time you retry. The compression fitting that came with the pilot is attached to a threaded nut - how to I cut that? Pipe cutter?
4. Do I then use a small compression fitting from Lowes with the remaining threaded part?
5. Do I really only turn the nut 1 full rotation after finger tight like the directions say?

If anyone has knowledge on this, please share. I cannot find anything regarding this particular problem. Thanks!

JL

 

[Stealthcruiser]

Pics?
You already have a leak, so turn it some more, but don't get crazy on it.

 

[lexingtondover]

Okay, I put in a new compression ring, followed the directions and it still leaked. So I kept turning it 1/4 turn increments and checked for leaks every time. After about 2 1/2 total rotations, it finally stopped leaking. I guess the finger-tight portion of the directions are different for weaklings like me.

I was also confused by the old compression ring being stuck to the threaded piece as if they were one solid unit. I tried to pull it off, but my pliers were just scratching everything, so I gave it a soft squeeze and it popped right off.

JL

 

[lexingtondover]

Oh, and thanks Stealthcruiser!

 

[Stealthcruiser]

Groovy!
For future reference, and from my compression fitting experiences: Snug it, and loosen it, snug it and loosen it, each time tightening a little further.
Repeat as needed, ( within reason! They are soft brass fittings!)

 

[day_trippr]

That's the thing - brass flare gas couplers actually need to be "deformed" through pressure to achieve a seal. If you've never hooked up a hard-plumbed NG or propane run you pretty much need to go through the motions once to figure out how many "turns" the coupler requires to seal...

Cheers!

 

[lexingtondover]

Thanks everyone, I was able to successfully install my other pilot light without a leak, but the flame is so small on this one that it's not touching the thermocouple. Hopefully all I need to do adjust the pilot adjustment screw on the gas valve.

If not, I'll be trying to install again. Fingers crossed. I'm running out of tube length.

JL