pid ssr and thermo package

[LKHA]

http://cgi.ebay.com/DUAL-DIGITAl-F-C-PID-TEMPERATURE-CONTROLLER-40A-SSR_W0QQitemZ290381856633QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item439c1b7f79

what do you all think about this package for a HLT project might need a heat sink

 

[wehumble]

I have the Tet612 and like it. The price seems ok with free shipping, but you're right about probably needing a heat sink.

 

[passedpawn]

Funny, I was looking at that just a while ago.

It does not appear to have a manual mode, but you don't need that for a HLT, only the BK. I'd say go for it.

 

[techrunner]

wouldn't it still work ok on a boil kettle? i was thinking you could just set the temp at 205 or whatever boiling temp is and let it go at that. probably could set it up to control a fermentation chamber too couldn't you? i was going to build an insulated box to run a fermentation chamber, just use guts from a fridge in the summer and get a little heater pad in the winter. anyone have experience with this item that it would work for those?

 

[Ohio-Ed]

wouldn't it still work ok on a boil kettle? i was thinking you could just set the temp at 205 or whatever boiling temp is and let it go at that. probably could set it up to control a fermentation chamber too couldn't you? i was going to build an insulated box to run a fermentation chamber, just use guts from a fridge in the summer and get a little heater pad in the winter. anyone have experience with this item that it would work for those?

Not really... Problem is the difference between almost boiling, rolling boil, hard boil and boil over, really have very little temp difference. For the most part... at sea level you cannot get water above 212f (yea, I know there are bunches of conditions under which it can happen), because above that it becomes vapor (steam) and really, below that is not boiling.

Bottom line... you would either not have a boil, or you would be boiling over constantly.

Ed

 

[Ricand]

I'm thinking of using one for the BK to prevent boil overs. I'd like to have one that beeps at me at 208 and cuts off the burner at 210. How many times have we all stared at that pot waiting for that boil over to start. You look away for a second and hear that nasty hssssss of wort on a hot burner and the slight splashing sound of it hitting the floor.

With a warning at 208 you could take over manual control for the last couple degrees, and if you were off measuring hops the burner would automatically stop the boil over till you got back in control.

 

[The Pol]

Not really... Problem is the difference between almost boiling, rolling boil, hard boil and boil over, really have very little temp difference. For the most part... at sea level you cannot get water above 212f (yea, I know there are bunches of conditions under which it can happen), because above that it becomes vapor (steam) and really, below that is not boiling.

Bottom line... you would either not have a boil, or you would be boiling over constantly.

Ed

Agreed...

Without manual mode, it will be horrible to maintain a decent boil. It will be FULL on until it hits boiling... then turn OFF... then wait for the wort to drop to 209 for instance, then turn FULL on again. This is why I pay $5 extra and get the SYL-2352

OR you set it for 212 and it never turns off... which you dont want either.

You need manual mode.

 

[passedpawn]

You need manual mode.

OP wanted it for HLT. Yes, I'd pay the extra too, regardless, because eventually you'd want to boil something in there.

Anyway, for the HLT, the original PID would be fine.

 

[The Pol]

OP wanted it for HLT. Yes, I'd pay the extra too, regardless, because eventually you'd want to boil something in there.

Anyway, for the HLT, the original PID would be fine.

I was commenting on the post that I quoted, which arose from a question about why it wouldnt work for boiling.

 

[LKHA]

ok one more ? 25 or 40 amp ssr

1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller (SSR control output)

$44.50

40 A SSR

$19.00

Heat Sink for 40A SSR

$18.50


Liquid tight RTD sensor, 4” probe, 1/4 NPT Thread

$32.55
Sub-Total: $114.55

 

[The Pol]

I generally go about 2x my actual draw... so, 40A SSR per element.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

ok one more ? 25 or 40 amp ssr

1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller (SSR control output)

$44.50

40 A SSR

$19.00

Heat Sink for 40A SSR

$18.50


Liquid tight RTD sensor, 4” probe, 1/4 NPT Thread

$32.55
Sub-Total: $114.55

Need one more piece of info... what element are you driving with the ssr?

I agree with Pol, about having more capacity than you need, but I'm not sure that you ever said what element you are planning to use.

You could run 1500-2000 on the 25 amp ssr, up to 5500 on the 40 amp. Of course you can use the 40 amp to run any of these.

I bought a 40amp and currently using it with a 1500 watt RIMs heater.

Ed

 

[LKHA]

I was going to set this up with a 5500 so I could always covert to a boil if I want to in future

 

[The Pol]

I was going to set this up with a 5500 so I could always covert to a boil if I want to in future

40A SSR and heatsink then...

 

[conpewter]

You'll want to use it to boil someday. Last brewday my boil kettle broke so I ended up completing the whole batch by boiling it in the HLT. Always good to have options in the system. Boil kettle is fixed now thankfully, gotta get back to brewing.

 

[95747brewer]

I am a complete PID/ssr noobie, but would this set of SSR and heat sinc work?http://cgi.ebay.com/Solid-State-Rel...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item56389ffc16

It is only 16 bucks with free shipping. Is it totally the wrong device or is it a you get what you pay for type of deal?

 

[95747brewer]

Oh wait, DC output. Nevermind.

 

[LKHA]

all ordered now just have to get all here and assemble and test thanks for all the help. the heat element is there a favorite brand model to use?

 

[The Pol]

all ordered now just have to get all here and assemble and test thanks for all the help. the heat element is there a favorite brand model to use?

I am using the CAMCO model 02583, they have a polished coating that makes them easy to clean, and they do not corrode like many others do.

 

[Walker]

dragging this thread back up.

I am also looking at that same deal on ebay for the PID. However, I am pretty sure that the thermocouple that comes with that thing will need to be replaced with a water-tight one or have some modifications made to it to make it water-tight.

I believe the thermocouple is just kind of loosely threaded through a drilled out bolt. He sells most of them with the listing indicating that it is for a kiln, so the package is meant for dry operation.

Still... $39 shipped is still a good deal for the PID, even if it does come with a thermocouple that is useless for my needs.

 

[andynaj]

i mantain a glassblowing studio, this is the unit i use for my kilns, i run it at 1050-1300 f, never had a problem, i love it!!! when i build my next kiln, or keezer im going to use it again, its easy to run and program