I noticed that some people are posting that they got the wrong PID, doesn't have manual mode, what is manual mode used for? Don't you just set the temp and let the PID do the rest? Guessing it's to override the set temp? Just curious as I'm looking at PIDs.
PID manual mode?
- Thread starter theck
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Manual mode allows you to bypass the automatic control of the output of the controller. In auto mode, the controller adjusts the output to maintain the process variable at the desired set point.
In manual mode, you adjust the output percentage and the controller ignores the set point. This is typically used to manually control the element power of the boil element.
In manual mode, you adjust the output percentage and the controller ignores the set point. This is typically used to manually control the element power of the boil element.
You should use the auto mode when maintaining a temp less than boiling. If you want to maintain say 152 degrees, you set the controller to auto and use 152 as the set point.
If you want to boil, you have to set the controller to manual and adjust the output percentage to a value that maintains a good boil. It's hard to keep a good boil running in auto mode because once a liquid reaches boiling, it doesn't get any hotter and the controller has a hard time adjusting the output properly.
If you want to boil, you have to set the controller to manual and adjust the output percentage to a value that maintains a good boil. It's hard to keep a good boil running in auto mode because once a liquid reaches boiling, it doesn't get any hotter and the controller has a hard time adjusting the output properly.
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
Yes you get a boil on and off with the element condition...
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theck
Well-Known Member
Cool thanks, think I got it now... I'm guessing the SYL-2352 has manual mode but does any of the cheaper myPins or ? have manual mode as well?
Maybe this one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091I50BG/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Ah now I see that the SYL-2352 is worth the cost because it just functions better.
Maybe this one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091I50BG/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Ah now I see that the SYL-2352 is worth the cost because it just functions better.
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augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
Yes correct... I found out the hard way as I have both but use three td4s now
JONNYROTTEN
Well-Known Member
Only used mine once so far but yes the 2352(same as mine) has manual.I used the manual function during the boil.Worked out very well
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theck
Well-Known Member
From what I'm reading they are a bugger to set in manual? What's your take on em?
JONNYROTTEN
Well-Known Member
If your concidering the 2352 is not difficult. I added a switch to kill the element for that very reason thinking I could turn off the element If I had trouble setting it and prevent a boilover.I don't see myself ever using the switch.
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theck
Well-Known Member
Not sure yet which I'm leaning towards. The 2352 is a bit more but from what I'm reading easier to maintain?
JONNYROTTEN
Well-Known Member
I read somewhere here that someone took the aubrins apart and it was a jumbled mess of cheap china parts.He didn't seem to think it was any more quatily than the cheaper pid's.the nice things about the aubins is if you need help with something just give them a call and someone picks up on the third ring ad gets you on your way.
I agree that aubins has great customer service. Also, many people on HBT are using them, so you have another source to ask questions.
That being said, I went with some used Cal Controls that I purchased on ebay. I haven't used them for anything more that a thermometer (build stalled, so it is connected to the temp probe and nothing else), so I can't give a strong opinion.
That being said, I went with some used Cal Controls that I purchased on ebay. I haven't used them for anything more that a thermometer (build stalled, so it is connected to the temp probe and nothing else), so I can't give a strong opinion.
