Hi,
Is it possible to use the same PID for both the Mash Turn and Kettle? Basically How could I wire somesort of Switch between the 2 Elements+thermocouple probe combination?
Is this event duable?
Thanks!
My CP is set up so that the power to any element has a dedicated cutoff using a DP contactor. The switch on the CP for each element controls the contactor for that element. This means that even if the SSR is telling the element to turn on, unless the contactor is switched on the element won't be powered. To add an element to my BK, all I have to do is add another contactor and SSR, and replace the switch on my CP with a 3-way. Switch left, and it activates the contactor to supply power to my RIMS element. Switch center, and both contactors are off. Switch right, and the contactor for the BK is active. Controlling it this way, I don't care what the PID or SSR's are doing. I will just need to make sure to remember to activate manual mode on the PID when switching to the boiler, but the nice thing is that once I have the percentage dialled in to maintain a good boil, I'll never have to set it again.
MrH
"They" are suggesting a 40A SSR, or at least that is what every one is using on 4500 W or greater. You also need a heat sync. Over building means the SSR and heat sync will not get overworked (stay cool). It is not like the system will be in use 24/7 so maybe a 25A will not be a huge issue, but if an SSR fails I believe it does closed, meaning powered on.
I have square electrical box on the back of my control panel. I run the power to the outlet through a 240V/30A 2-pole switch that runs to a 20A/240v outlet. I plug in the element to this outlet and can turn off the power to the element to the switch. With this setup you could also plug in another element to the outlet.
I have seen a thread asking about switching between thermocouplers but it was not possible. The thermocoupler sends its reading via resistance. Any switch would alter this info rendering it inaccurate. Auber has a plug that you can attach to the back of your control box that you can use to input thermocouplers so you can detach them. It could be used to change from one thermocoupler to the other. Auber carries one for both the RTD and K-type probes you will have to order the right one maybe two of them for two different couplers. Here is one for the k-type sensor. http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=119
So could I put a three way switche on both elements (after the SSR right?). Then I would manualy switch the probes. It's quite easy with plugged end K type probes.
And voila! ... My house burns down ...
Seriously thought would that work? I would have to do the manual switch. Both go off, then one on.
Would you see this as too much of a risk for human error?
"They" are suggesting a 40A SSR, or at least that is what every one is using on 4500 W or greater. You also need a heat sync. Over building means the SSR and heat sync will not get overworked (stay cool). It is not like the system will be in use 24/7 so maybe a 25A will not be a huge issue, but if an SSR fails I believe it does closed, meaning powered on.
I use old CPU heatsinks for my SSRs. On my 40A SSR switching a 6000W element, my heatsink gets up to about 120F after 30 minutes. 40A heatsinks don't cost that much more than 25s...
Boils need duty cycle, not temp. control. Does the Love have manual mode for duty cycle?
Yes. I don't like having manual switches for high-amperage circuits, especially where risks are increased (proximity to liquid).
My solution is rather inexpensive and is based on standard industrial control principles. It takes out as much of the human error factor as possible. Contactors run about $10. SSRs about $25. I used my own heatsinks. The industrial-style switches cost a bit more than toggles, but they give the CP a much more professional look and feel.
You'll never get a good boil without a modulated manual control on your PID. Love controllers won't work either and are more expensive. PIDs with manual are about $40. I will reiterate that you don't need a temp probe in a BK if you use a PID in manual mode.
MrH
Thanks for all your input MrH. I liked the rotary switch and contactor ideas from your previous post and intend to use it if when I move to a more complex system with two heating elements. Would you please clarify the limitations of the Love Controller, why won't it work for a boil? I intend to have my PID control the BK, and the Love Controller for HLT and MLT. It does not need to heat water over 180 degrees.
That's just lovely! I bought the tet612. I does not seam to have a manual override. It seams that I have bougt everything needed for a rims!
i'll just bite the bullet and purchase a manual allowed PID and 40A for the bk and keep what i have for the rims.
how well that's life. Thank you for the help I think I'll post my schemas and purchase list for review on here
I'm not sure how you intend to control your MT. RIMS?
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