PID and Timer diagram

[jpmreno]

I'm building an oven guys. I have a PID and Timer for two heating elements. Does anybody know of a easy to understand diagram I can use. It would be much appreciated.

 

[doug293cz]

I'm building an oven guys. I have a PID and Timer for two heating elements. Does anybody know of a easy to understand diagram I can use. It would be much appreciated.

Need to know some more information:

• What model PID?
• What type of temperature probe?
• What model timer?
• Voltage and wattage rating for each heating element?
• How do you intend to connect the elements to the control panel?
• How will you get power to your control panel?
• Do you want bare bones or something a little more elegant?
• What will be in the oven?
• Where will the oven be located?

Brew on

 

[jpmreno]

Thank You for answering my call.
1. Sestos - D1S (Temp)
2. Sestos - B2E (Timer)
3.Not sure about probe it came with (temp) D1S

Elements
Electrolux Bake 3400 watt 8 pass "L" Bottom
Electrolux Broil 2750 watt 6 pass Top

220 Volt to bottom of box

Little more elegant

Gun Parts Cerakoting

Outside of garage

If you need anything else just ask.
Thanks John

 

[doug293cz]

Ok, conceptually this is a simple design, however, I'm not familiar with the specific components, so will have to find info on them.

Do you want the timer to just activate a light/buzzer when it times out, or do something more complex (like shut the heaters down)?

You will need to provide a 30A, 240V, GFCI protected power feed for this oven.

Brew on

 

[jpmreno]

Just tell me what you need and I'll get for you. I have the 30amp GFCI protected 240volt line installed already. Thanks

 

[doug293cz]

I can probably find the info I need about the PID and timer on-line. If not, I'll let you know.

What I really need from you is how you want to use the timer? Do you just want an alarm when it times out, or do you want something else to happen?

Brew on

 

[jpmreno]

let the timer sound off when time is reached. That sounds great

 

[jpmreno]

oh one more thing I have three elements not two. my bad.....

 

[doug293cz]

oh one more thing I have three elements not two. my bad.....

What are the individual wattages of the three elements?

Brew on

 

[jpmreno]

2750 for all three

 

[doug293cz]

Three elements at 2750W each is a total of 8250W, which will draw 34.4A @ 240V. This won't work on your existing 30A circuit. Your previous two element (3400 & 2750) only totaled 6150W and would draw about 25.6A max. Need to resolve this before finalizing the design.

Brew on

 

[jpmreno]

ok just make it two elements that still should be enough to heat it up to 450 degrees

 

[jpmreno]

Just wanted to say thank you for helping me out.

 

[jpmreno]

Hey good morning. Do you have an ETA on the diagram. Just trying to make sure all my ducks or in a row.....lol
Thanks

 

[doug293cz]

Hey good morning. Do you have an ETA on the diagram. Just trying to make sure all my ducks or in a row.....lol
Thanks

I would say, before Monday.

Brew on

 

[jpmreno]

thanks

 

[jpmreno]

Good morning. Are you making any head way?

 

[doug293cz]

Good morning. Are you making any head way?

I'm about a day behind schedule (hey wadda you want for free? ), but should have it done today. You said you got the temp probe with the PID. In order to create the best drawing, I need to know how many wire leads the temp probe has.

I have found the information needed to connect up the timer and PID. The timer has two alarms, and the PID has one. I thought I would wire all the alarms to a single light/buzzer, and have a enable/disable switch for each of the three alarms. When an alarm goes off, you would have to look at the timer and PID to determine which alarm was triggered. That ok with you? It's up to you to determine how you want to program the alarm functions.

Brew on

 

[doug293cz]

OK, here's the first pass at a design diagram. Let me know if you have any questions or comments.



Brew on

 

[jpmreno]

Doug that looks awesome. Hey my email is [email protected] please send me your address. I feel like I should make you something that I'm good at. I'll let you know when its on the way. Thank you my friend

 

[daveMN]

OK, here's the first pass at a design diagram. Let me know if you have any questions or comments.

View attachment 396189

Brew on

You do great work, Doug. PJ would be proud!

 

[doug293cz]

As with any design, the called out components can be substituted with any functionally equivalent part rated at least as high for voltage and current. I would recommend against using a Fotek SSR, as many of those available on the market are counterfeit, and use underrated components.

Brew on

 

[doug293cz]

You do great work, Doug. PJ would be proud!

Thanks for the kind words. P-J was my inspiration to get started doing designs.

Brew on

 

[jpmreno]

Hey Doug is it ok that I get rid of the receptacles and hard wire the elements. Also what are the three switches in the center of the diagram represent?

 

[jpmreno]

 

[doug293cz]

Hey Doug is it ok that I get rid of the receptacles and hard wire the elements. Also what are the three switches in the center of the diagram represent?

You can hardwire the panel to the elements, but you may find it inconvenient when it's time to clean or move things. As a minimum I recommend a breakable connection at either the panel or the kettle. Breaks at the kettles provide more convenience for the buck.

The three unlabeled switches are alarm enable/disable switches. The timer has two programmable alarms, and the PID has one. The switches allow you to enable or disable (connect or disconnect from the flasher/buzzer) the alarms individually, without having to go into the device to disable the alarms.

Brew on

 

[jpmreno]

what is "240v element firing"?

 

[doug293cz]

what is "240v element firing"?

That let's you know when the SSR is actually sending power to the element. The controller has a light that tells you when it is signalling the SSR to provide power, but if components fail, then the SSR might not send power when told to, or might send power all the time no matter what it's told (this is a common SSR failure mode.) The light can help you diagnose system failures. For example, if the light is on all the time when the element is enabled, then the SSR has failed in the "ON" state.

Brew on