PicoBrew Pico users

[Oleary]

Has anyone tried krausening their batches? I'm contemplating to do so with a freestyle pak. It helps since I will know the F.G (how do you find the O.G and F.G of paks?) and can calculate the amount of fermenting wort to add to the conditioned keg. I plan on aging it for something like 6 months.

For anyone who did it, was it worth it? Would krausening benefit of a oak cask with a breather?

A few of the packs list the OG/FG (Annie's London Ale for one) on the labels but if not I use the ABV to give me a target FG. Not very accurate since you don't know if you hit their numbers, but if ABV is close, I 'assume' I came close to their numbers.

 

[Lbarouf]

A few of the packs list the OG/FG (Annie's London Ale for one) on the labels but if not I use the ABV to give me a target FG. Not very accurate since you don't know if you hit their numbers, but if ABV is close, I 'assume' I came close to their numbers.

Thanks. I find it too much of a moving target with 2 unknown. Unless I misunderstand something here, the ABV relies on you hitting the right O.G to beging with. With krausening, I understand that I need to have the right amount (at least close enough) of fermenting wort added to the one done fermenting. Without the real known expected F.G I have to assume 2 variables which could swing either way. I rather not try krausening until I brew at least 3 batches in a row with known variables and good results. Once it would be done, then I know that keeping everything equal, I will get so and so specific gravities.

It would be so much easier if we had the details of each pack, the right oz of each grain and hops so we can calculate everything out of the recipe instead. Anyhow.

 

[Lbarouf]

@Denny and anyone who brewed Denny's vanilla and bourbon porter: do you add the vanilla and bourbon AFTER the carbonation, or immediately after racking but BEFORE carbonation? What if I decide to naturally carbonate, would it affect the taste of the final product? Thanks for any input.

Cheers.

 

[PeteSeattle]

@Denny and anyone who brewed Denny's vanilla and bourbon porter: do you add the vanilla and bourbon AFTER the carbonation, or immediately after racking but BEFORE carbonation? What if I decide to naturally carbonate, would it affect the taste of the final product? Thanks for any input.

Cheers.

I added after racking and before carbonation. Came out fine.

 

[Lbarouf]

I added after racking and before carbonation. Came out fine.

Great, thanks!

 

[Oleary]

Thanks. I find it too much of a moving target with 2 unknown. Unless I misunderstand something here, the ABV relies on you hitting the right O.G to beging with. With krausening, I understand that I need to have the right amount (at least close enough) of fermenting wort added to the one done fermenting. Without the real known expected F.G I have to assume 2 variables which could swing either way. I rather not try krausening until I brew at least 3 batches in a row with known variables and good results. Once it would be done, then I know that keeping everything equal, I will get so and so specific gravities.

It would be so much easier if we had the details of each pack, the right oz of each grain and hops so we can calculate everything out of the recipe instead. Anyhow.

The ABV doesn't rely on you hitting the right OG (it's just the difference between the actual OG and the actual FG). If you know the actual OG (refractometer, tilt, etc) you can find the expected FG. I have a feeling we're talking about the same thing and I'm just missing the point.

 

[JRod JRod]

Brand new to home brewing - my Pico C arrives today and I can’t wait to brew my first batch (Elysian Dragonstooth Stout - came with the machine). I’ve read every post on this massive thread and feel much more prepared now. Thanks to the group for all the amazing insights!!!

Question - I want to control the temp of the keg during fermentation. I have a basement that’s in the mid 50s. I was going to wrap the keg in a seedling mat and the cozie and use a thermostat to try and keep the keg at 68 or so. Would there be any benefit in dropping the keg and mat into a 10-gallon water cooler? It’s insulated fairly well so the seedling mat won’t have to work so hard and it might help smooth out the temperature highs and lows. My only worry is that it will be too insulated and it will just get progressively hotter and hotter due to the fermentation process and I won’t be able to stay at 68. Any advice?

Thanks!!!

 

[Lbarouf]

Hey JRod, welcome to the forum.
Insulated environment means it won't drop in temperature as fast. A seedling mat's thermometer will stop heating the keg once 68 is reached. Don't expect the fermentation to bring the temperature that much higher, it's not thermonuclear brewing! ;-)

So once reached, or exceeded, it will take longer for it to drop again and the seedling pad to kick in again. If you use the fast ferment adapter, it will keep the pressure to a "safe" level, and I doubt your temperature will ever reach the upper limit of 84 degrees. So you're safe and it should mean less temperature fluctuations.

The only part I don't know, is how your water cooler will smell. Off gases will escape from the pressure relief valve. Not sure about using it for water after. Just a thought....

 

[Lbarouf]

My fridge kicked the can I guess. Thermostat is screwed and froze my beer that was cold crashing. Any chance I can salvage a brew that froze?

 

[jrb03]

Thaw it and drink it. No problem. I’ve froze a keg or two before lol.

 

[Lbarouf]

Never happened to me before. Done... is thawed and waiting a bit more before racking and carbing. Crossing fingers.

 

[PeteSeattle]

Never happened to me before. Done... is thawed and waiting a bit more before racking and carbing. Crossing fingers.

Extreme cold crashing!

 

[macgyuver]

Pico S for 279

https://www.homedepot.com/p/PicoBre...=9c329c463f2f11e8a2e0ee2e757ac07b0INT&cj=true

 

[ptmpls]

Pico S for 279

https://www.homedepot.com/p/PicoBre...=9c329c463f2f11e8a2e0ee2e757ac07b0INT&cj=true

Wow... that’s cheap. Have been brewing with Pico past 3 years and glad it got me back into brewing. Now i just built an induction BIAB system so looking to unload my Pico Pro but if someone can get a brand new system for $279 unlikely i can get more than half that for a used system!

 

[Lbarouf]

Wow... that’s cheap. Have been brewing with Pico past 3 years and glad it got me back into brewing. Now i just built an induction BIAB system so looking to unload my Pico Pro but if someone can get a brand new system for $279 unlikely i can get more than half that for a used system!

Yeah, but they ran out of that one. It's still $600 most of the time. But I hear you. I would just keep it if I was you. Or trade it to Pico for a Z.

 

[Lax coach]

I need a couple more kegs to get my pipeline going more consistently. Currently have three of the little 1.75 cornys and the much-unloved (including by me) serving keg. But I'm actually thinking about getting a couple of Pico C kegs (plus the adapter kit) instead of more of the standard ball-lock ones My thought is to do the brewing and primary fermentation in the C kegs, then rack to the ball-locks for carbonation and serving.

Since the C kegs come completely apart and are dishwasher safe, that seemed like a good place to let all the krausen and trub build up. The kegs I serve from typically don't require much scrubbing at all. I also have two PicoFerms, which are natively compatible with the C kegs, so I don't lose anything there. And of course, they're a bit cheaper. It'd be $140 for two C kegs and the adapter kit, vs. $200 for a pair of the standard cornys.

Am I missing anything? Can somebody poke holes in my strategy?

 

[Moe Howard]

Made my first batch and have a question on fermenting. The brew keg dropped about 8-9 degrees after about 24 hours which I would expect but I'm confused how long I should ferment based on the chart in the manual. I'm doing a 6.6% beer, Dead Man Rogue. The keg is sitting in my basement at about 63 degrees. So how long should I ferment this? Appreciate any feedback

 

[Lbarouf]

I need a couple more kegs to get my pipeline going more consistently. Currently have three of the little 1.75 cornys and the much-unloved (including by me) serving keg. But I'm actually thinking about getting a couple of Pico C kegs (plus the adapter kit) instead of more of the standard ball-lock ones My thought is to do the brewing and primary fermentation in the C kegs, then rack to the ball-locks for carbonation and serving.

Since the C kegs come completely apart and are dishwasher safe, that seemed like a good place to let all the krausen and trub build up. The kegs I serve from typically don't require much scrubbing at all. I also have two PicoFerms, which are natively compatible with the C kegs, so I don't lose anything there. And of course, they're a bit cheaper. It'd be $140 for two C kegs and the adapter kit, vs. $200 for a pair of the standard cornys.

Am I missing anything? Can somebody poke holes in my strategy?

I just finished 2 batches using these for the first time. I have to say, I was impressed with the ease of use/cleaning. It's a good idea, if you want to ferment 1 batch at a time. If you want to scale in the multi batch of the same batch, I'd say get a fermenter. A small 7.5Gal would be perfect for 3 or 4 batches, and cost less than 4 pico C kegs. But the idea of using Pico C kegs for fermenting is great. I have 6 kegs today, and do double batches of 3 styles over the week-ends. My serving kegs are 3gal from AEB. My only regret is not having space to place my batches in a conical, this way I could have a pipeline, when kegs would be filled, I could be fermenting the next batches.

Hope it can inspire something frothy, cold and great. ;-)

 

[Lbarouf]

Made my first batch and have a question on fermenting. The brew keg dropped about 8-9 degrees after about 24 hours which I would expect but I'm confused how long I should ferment based on the chart in the manual. I'm doing a 6.6% beer, Dead Man Rogue. The keg is sitting in my basement at about 63 degrees. So how long should I ferment this? Appreciate any feedback

I would wait 2 weeks. I just finished this beer on the fast ferment schedule, it was supposedly done after 9 days at 83F, but it was clearly not done, so I left it 14 days, it's carbing now and the first sip to see how it was, was just fine. Without a tilt or another type of monitor other than the picoferm, i don't see a way to know precisely when it is done.

If you want to test the PicoBrew theory, keep the keg in the fast ferment temp range, use the pico C keg or corny keg with the red pressure relief valve, and wait 10 days. See if it is done. I just wait 14 days personally and not worry about the temperature, as long as it's not extreme of course, and as constant as possible.

 

[Lax coach]

I just finished 2 batches using these for the first time. I have to say, I was impressed with the ease of use/cleaning. It's a good idea, if you want to ferment 1 batch at a time. If you want to scale in the multi batch of the same batch, I'd say get a fermenter. A small 7.5Gal would be perfect for 3 or 4 batches, and cost less than 4 pico C kegs. But the idea of using Pico C kegs for fermenting is great. I have 6 kegs today, and do double batches of 3 styles over the week-ends. My serving kegs are 3gal from AEB. My only regret is not having space to place my batches in a conical, this way I could have a pipeline, when kegs would be filled, I could be fermenting the next batches.

Hope it can inspire something frothy, cold and great. ;-)

Thanks for the info, that's really helpful!

 

[CRTLMB]

make / manufacturer: Picobrew
model name / number: Pico S

Selling my Pico S System. $500 Included with it is:

5 Serving Kegs
4 Brew Kegs
Picoferm
Helles Lager Picopak
Habitus Double Ipa Picopak
Kombucha Picopak
Co2 Cartridges
Star San

I dont have time to bre anymore. I have brewed three
Picopaks with this machine.

Carl 772-708-1506

 

[BrewingBrian]

Hey Guys - Brewed my first two beers recently in the Pico Pro.

1st one is a Brown Ale targeted at 5.8% ABV and is fast fermenting and has been about 8 days there. How do I know when it's "done?" Do I just pull the red valve to see if pressure is still releasing? I read it somewhere, but can't seem to find it again. If air escapes, wait another day and try again?

2nd one is a Double IPA targeted at 8.8% ABV and is standard fermenting with vodka in the bubbler. Bubbled pretty well the first couple days. I took a peak in there after 3 days because I need to add the dry hop, but it still had a little foam floating, so checking again tonight (4th day) to see if I should throw that in. That's what I saw in a PicoBrew video (wait until foam has cleared). Then, how will I know when it's "done?"


Thanks!

 

[Lbarouf]

Hey Guys - Brewed my first two beers recently in the Pico Pro.

1st one is a Brown Ale targeted at 5.8% ABV and is fast fermenting and has been about 8 days there. How do I know when it's "done?" Do I just pull the red valve to see if pressure is still releasing? I read it somewhere, but can't seem to find it again. If air escapes, wait another day and try again?

2nd one is a Double IPA targeted at 8.8% ABV and is standard fermenting with vodka in the bubbler. Bubbled pretty well the first couple days. I took a peak in there after 3 days because I need to add the dry hop, but it still had a little foam floating, so checking again tonight (4th day) to see if I should throw that in. That's what I saw in a PicoBrew video (wait until foam has cleared). Then, how will I know when it's "done?"


Thanks!

Hello Brian,

Since you have a Pico Pro, you will be serving from a corny keg as well, right? In all cases, I wait 14 days for the fermentation to complete, I don't rush it. Only once, it was the Belle of the Ball I think, that took 16 days. If you really want to know, the Tilt is a good instrument. The picoferm is ok to give you an idea. It monitors the pressure and temperature of the brew. Kind of like what you do when checking the air lock (I heard people call the carboy a bubbler, but never the airlock). The tilt measures gravity and temperature. The picoferm stops recording after the pre-determined schedule PicoBrew has calculated for your pack. It's a cheaper alternative to the Tilt, but can't confirm if the schedule is correct. Someone with both, Tilt and PicoFerm could chime in.

As for dry hopping, once cold crashed, and racked, that's when I add my dry hops. I usually carb the beer over a few days, and the keg kicks in a few days after day, if it lasts a day. I don't dry hop during the fermentation myself.

So in short, unless you have a tool that monitors the fermentation, stick to a value like 14.

Good luck and enjoy brewing.

 

[BrewingBrian]

Thanks, Lbarouf. Sorry, I'm no expert, so "bubbler" probably wasn't the right term, but that's what it does. So, 14 days no matter what? I thought "fast" fermentation would be quicker than "standard", plus different types of beers ferment different lengths?

Also, I won't always serve from the keg. Going to bottle the first batch with the Cooper tablets after cold crashing when fermentation done. So, that's the point I'm trying to figure out right now.

I'll look into those monitoring tools. Sounds neat!

 

[Lbarouf]

Thanks, Lbarouf. Sorry, I'm no expert, so "bubbler" probably wasn't the right term, but that's what it does. So, 14 days no matter what? I thought "fast" fermentation would be quicker than "standard", plus different types of beers ferment different lengths?

Also, I won't always serve from the keg. Going to bottle the first batch with the Cooper tablets after cold crashing when fermentation done. So, that's the point I'm trying to figure out right now.

I'll look into those monitoring tools. Sounds neat!

My pleasure.
We all had the idea that FastFerment meant faster. I did not see any real difference in time, but I did see a difference in the temperature range that I was able to ferment. That meant a lot to me. I prefer to call it WarmFerment.

So I would recommend to stay on the safe side and wait 14 days for all the beer styles you would brew. Use the liquid crystal temperature gauge to keep the temp steady and within range. Use the red fast ferment pressure release valve if you want to benefit from the higher temperature range and not bother with the airlock ("bubbler").

Before pitching, aerating the wort is a good idea. I whisk it for a good 15 minutes. It creates a froth on top. I move the froth then pitch. The yeast will be grateful for the oxygen. Alternatively, you could invest in a aerating stone with a pump. I'm thinking about one myself.

Also, pitching less than a pack of yeast is a good idea. For a 1.5G size, you will see 1 tsp, some say 1tbsp, other half the pouch.... 1 tsp works well for me.

A good 3-4 days of cold crashing after this (I crash mine in the low 30s), then rack to the serving keg. I see little to none sediment in my serving keg. Now is also a good time to add the dry hops.

If you prefer to try a natural carbonation, cold crash at a higher temperature, like 40 some, then bring back up to 65-70F after 3-4 days, rack then pitch in your sugar, wait another 2 weeks. You will still need CO2 to push the beer out the tap/faucet. I have seen few newer home brewers who taught that once the beer was carbonated, it was going to come out the keg on its own. Carbonation and draught are 2 things. Still need some co2 to push the beer out of the keg. Just saying in case thought otherwise.

Experiment and enjoy. I did some of my own. 2 batches, 1 naturally carbed, the other forced carbed. Another 2 batch with fast fermentation and the other natural fermentation. To each its own. I like the fast ferment method as it's more compact and is good at higher temp, so I can store the keg away and let it do its thing in a dark corner. I take my time fermenting and cold crashing. Then for carbing, I use a carbonation stone. Increase the pressure 1 psi at a time sloooowly. And I have seen a pico keg ready overnight. 2 days for my 3 gal. But if you are in no hurry, you can still use the carbing stone and wait when it's time to tap.

Typically expect from brew to drink, 3-4 weeks.

Oh, and one great thing about this machine. Once you have your process down pat, and you find a great pack. You can make it again and again, and everyone can enjoy it overtime, without tasting awfully different from one time to another.

Give the freestyle a go as well. There's not much tweaking you can do, but I was able to "clone" a recipe I was doing manually into a great one. The keg was emptied in a record 30 min!

Enjoy the hobby!

 

[Goodgrapes]

Links for everything I used are listed at the end of the post.

I’d like to convert my ball lock mini regulator to be able to also work with a serving Keg. Any idea where I can locate the fitting or what it’s called?

1/8” NPT to 1/2 ??? barb?

Any insight?

Thx

 

[Lbarouf]

?!? What are you looking for? Where will it go, between the bottle and the regulator? What connector size will the bottle have?

 

[Goodgrapes]

I’m lookimg for this part.

 

[Buck*49]

View attachment 566852 I’m lookimg for this part.

My 2 cents:
I would stick with ball lock regulator and corny keg. The regulator shown is designed to push in rubber bung with hole to fit the fitting circled. I used it but could never get it to stop leaking, even using bung lube
Due to issue, I just got done converting regulator to ball locks and 20 oz paintball CO2 tank and purchased corny kegs.

 

[Lbarouf]

View attachment 566852 I’m lookimg for this part.

Oh, you want to do the opposite of what we have done? Darn, I threw mine out, I would have shipped them to you for free.

As Buck is saying, many of us didn't use those kegs much. While the format is convenient, it does a terrible job at serving in my opinion.

If you really want to continue using it, a Party Star Deluxe tap system may be a better alternative. Someone here has been using it. I have not, but it seems it has a better seal and keeps the beer carbonated longer.

As to answer precisely what you asked, the regulator port side is standard 1/4" MFL, but the other end I have never seen anywhere else. Probably made in China, possibly just for them? Wecomatic is not offering anything like this. The O.D is 1/2", correct. The style of that nipple is similar to barb but I think it's called inlet bottle fitting nipple. So it would be a 1/4" MFL to (1/2" O.D, 1/8" I.D nipple) or something along those lines. Good luck finding that somewhere.

EDIT: Looking for mini keg bung plug adapter bottle nipple and similar did not turn anything. Regular barb end would likely be easier to find than that nipple.

P.S: bung not bong... you find way different stuff with the wrong spelling. ;-)

Not worth it in my opinion.