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make / manufacturer: Picobrew
model name / number: Pico S

Selling my Pico S System. $500 Included with it is:

5 Serving Kegs
4 Brew Kegs
Picoferm
Helles Lager Picopak
Habitus Double Ipa Picopak
Kombucha Picopak
Co2 Cartridges
Star San

I dont have time to bre anymore. I have brewed three
Picopaks with this machine.

Carl 772-708-1506
 
Hey Guys - Brewed my first two beers recently in the Pico Pro.

1st one is a Brown Ale targeted at 5.8% ABV and is fast fermenting and has been about 8 days there. How do I know when it's "done?" Do I just pull the red valve to see if pressure is still releasing? I read it somewhere, but can't seem to find it again. If air escapes, wait another day and try again?

2nd one is a Double IPA targeted at 8.8% ABV and is standard fermenting with vodka in the bubbler. Bubbled pretty well the first couple days. I took a peak in there after 3 days because I need to add the dry hop, but it still had a little foam floating, so checking again tonight (4th day) to see if I should throw that in. That's what I saw in a PicoBrew video (wait until foam has cleared). Then, how will I know when it's "done?"


Thanks!
 
Hey Guys - Brewed my first two beers recently in the Pico Pro.

1st one is a Brown Ale targeted at 5.8% ABV and is fast fermenting and has been about 8 days there. How do I know when it's "done?" Do I just pull the red valve to see if pressure is still releasing? I read it somewhere, but can't seem to find it again. If air escapes, wait another day and try again?

2nd one is a Double IPA targeted at 8.8% ABV and is standard fermenting with vodka in the bubbler. Bubbled pretty well the first couple days. I took a peak in there after 3 days because I need to add the dry hop, but it still had a little foam floating, so checking again tonight (4th day) to see if I should throw that in. That's what I saw in a PicoBrew video (wait until foam has cleared). Then, how will I know when it's "done?"


Thanks!

Hello Brian,

Since you have a Pico Pro, you will be serving from a corny keg as well, right? In all cases, I wait 14 days for the fermentation to complete, I don't rush it. Only once, it was the Belle of the Ball I think, that took 16 days. If you really want to know, the Tilt is a good instrument. The picoferm is ok to give you an idea. It monitors the pressure and temperature of the brew. Kind of like what you do when checking the air lock (I heard people call the carboy a bubbler, but never the airlock). The tilt measures gravity and temperature. The picoferm stops recording after the pre-determined schedule PicoBrew has calculated for your pack. It's a cheaper alternative to the Tilt, but can't confirm if the schedule is correct. Someone with both, Tilt and PicoFerm could chime in.

As for dry hopping, once cold crashed, and racked, that's when I add my dry hops. I usually carb the beer over a few days, and the keg kicks in a few days after day, if it lasts a day. I don't dry hop during the fermentation myself.

So in short, unless you have a tool that monitors the fermentation, stick to a value like 14.

Good luck and enjoy brewing.
 
Thanks, Lbarouf. Sorry, I'm no expert, so "bubbler" probably wasn't the right term, but that's what it does. So, 14 days no matter what? I thought "fast" fermentation would be quicker than "standard", plus different types of beers ferment different lengths?

Also, I won't always serve from the keg. Going to bottle the first batch with the Cooper tablets after cold crashing when fermentation done. So, that's the point I'm trying to figure out right now.

I'll look into those monitoring tools. Sounds neat!
 
Thanks, Lbarouf. Sorry, I'm no expert, so "bubbler" probably wasn't the right term, but that's what it does. So, 14 days no matter what? I thought "fast" fermentation would be quicker than "standard", plus different types of beers ferment different lengths?

Also, I won't always serve from the keg. Going to bottle the first batch with the Cooper tablets after cold crashing when fermentation done. So, that's the point I'm trying to figure out right now.

I'll look into those monitoring tools. Sounds neat!

My pleasure.
We all had the idea that FastFerment meant faster. I did not see any real difference in time, but I did see a difference in the temperature range that I was able to ferment. That meant a lot to me. I prefer to call it WarmFerment.

So I would recommend to stay on the safe side and wait 14 days for all the beer styles you would brew. Use the liquid crystal temperature gauge to keep the temp steady and within range. Use the red fast ferment pressure release valve if you want to benefit from the higher temperature range and not bother with the airlock ("bubbler").

Before pitching, aerating the wort is a good idea. I whisk it for a good 15 minutes. It creates a froth on top. I move the froth then pitch. The yeast will be grateful for the oxygen. Alternatively, you could invest in a aerating stone with a pump. I'm thinking about one myself.

Also, pitching less than a pack of yeast is a good idea. For a 1.5G size, you will see 1 tsp, some say 1tbsp, other half the pouch.... 1 tsp works well for me.

A good 3-4 days of cold crashing after this (I crash mine in the low 30s), then rack to the serving keg. I see little to none sediment in my serving keg. Now is also a good time to add the dry hops.

If you prefer to try a natural carbonation, cold crash at a higher temperature, like 40 some, then bring back up to 65-70F after 3-4 days, rack then pitch in your sugar, wait another 2 weeks. You will still need CO2 to push the beer out the tap/faucet. I have seen few newer home brewers who taught that once the beer was carbonated, it was going to come out the keg on its own. Carbonation and draught are 2 things. Still need some co2 to push the beer out of the keg. Just saying in case thought otherwise.

Experiment and enjoy. I did some of my own. 2 batches, 1 naturally carbed, the other forced carbed. Another 2 batch with fast fermentation and the other natural fermentation. To each its own. I like the fast ferment method as it's more compact and is good at higher temp, so I can store the keg away and let it do its thing in a dark corner. I take my time fermenting and cold crashing. Then for carbing, I use a carbonation stone. Increase the pressure 1 psi at a time sloooowly. And I have seen a pico keg ready overnight. 2 days for my 3 gal. But if you are in no hurry, you can still use the carbing stone and wait when it's time to tap.

Typically expect from brew to drink, 3-4 weeks.

Oh, and one great thing about this machine. Once you have your process down pat, and you find a great pack. You can make it again and again, and everyone can enjoy it overtime, without tasting awfully different from one time to another.

Give the freestyle a go as well. There's not much tweaking you can do, but I was able to "clone" a recipe I was doing manually into a great one. The keg was emptied in a record 30 min!

Enjoy the hobby!
 
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Links for everything I used are listed at the end of the post.

I’d like to convert my ball lock mini regulator to be able to also work with a serving Keg. Any idea where I can locate the fitting or what it’s called?

1/8” NPT to 1/2 ??? barb?

Any insight?

Thx
 
?!? What are you looking for? Where will it go, between the bottle and the regulator? What connector size will the bottle have?
 
6A33E432-B5DE-41C3-8AB4-884CAA4FD255.jpeg
I’m lookimg for this part.
 
View attachment 566852 I’m lookimg for this part.
My 2 cents:
I would stick with ball lock regulator and corny keg. The regulator shown is designed to push in rubber bung with hole to fit the fitting circled. I used it but could never get it to stop leaking, even using bung lube
Due to issue, I just got done converting regulator to ball locks and 20 oz paintball CO2 tank and purchased corny kegs.
 
View attachment 566852 I’m lookimg for this part.
Oh, you want to do the opposite of what we have done? Darn, I threw mine out, I would have shipped them to you for free.

As Buck is saying, many of us didn't use those kegs much. While the format is convenient, it does a terrible job at serving in my opinion.

If you really want to continue using it, a Party Star Deluxe tap system may be a better alternative. Someone here has been using it. I have not, but it seems it has a better seal and keeps the beer carbonated longer.

As to answer precisely what you asked, the regulator port side is standard 1/4" MFL, but the other end I have never seen anywhere else. Probably made in China, possibly just for them? Wecomatic is not offering anything like this. The O.D is 1/2", correct. The style of that nipple is similar to barb but I think it's called inlet bottle fitting nipple. So it would be a 1/4" MFL to (1/2" O.D, 1/8" I.D nipple) or something along those lines. Good luck finding that somewhere.

EDIT: Looking for mini keg bung plug adapter bottle nipple and similar did not turn anything. Regular barb end would likely be easier to find than that nipple.

P.S: bung not bong... you find way different stuff with the wrong spelling. ;-)

Not worth it in my opinion.
 
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Hello! This has been a great resource for me in the past but i made a big error in my last brew and was curious if anyone had ever done this? I accidentally used tap water in the reservoir without thinking so my water would've been 50 50 or so RO vs tap water. The water in town is pretty hard and I know your not supposed to do this with the machine but had a huge brain fart. I rinsed the measuring bucket and instead of getting distilled I filled it up .
 
@dkilday2 It's not the end of the world. Of course, it would be best not to, but the Pico has a descaling cycle as well. Get some descaler liquid for coffee machines and follow the instructions found on page 139 of the instructions. Just don't use hard water in the keg for the brewing, this will likely throw off the flavour. Hope this helps and reassures you.
 
Not the end of the world. Buy a bottle of the descaling liquid:

https://www.picobrew.com/store/products/Product.cshtml?id=597

Or equivalent, and follow the descaling instructions in the manual:

1. Pour 14 ounces of Descaling Liquid into the Water Reservoir. Fill the rest of the Water Reservoir with clean tap water (approximately 3.5 liters).
2. Connect the hoses of the Pico by firmly connecting the OUT hose connector into the IN hose connector.
3. Insert the Step Filter with lid into the Pico. Turn Pico on. Click Utilities and select RUN DESCALER.
4 . Once the descaling cycle begins, it will take roughly 30 minutes to complete. When the Water Reservoir is empty press the Control Knob to end the cycle.
5. Once the descaling cycle finishes, carefully empty all liquid from the Step Filter. Fill the Water Reservoir with 3.5 liters of clean tap water. Insert the Step Filter with lid back into the Pico until it clicks into place. Press the Control Knob to continue. When the Water Reservoir is empty (after approximately 30 minutes) press the Control Knob to end the cycle.
6. Run a Deep Clean on your Pico by following the Deep Clean instructions in the manual.
 
Thanks for the feedback guys! I will order some of the descaling liquid. Glad to hear it want affect the taste in the beer. I am one brew shy of the deep clean cycle so does it matter if I do another brew before I run the descaling liquid and deep clean?
Thanks again
 
(My Repost from another thread)

I need some help on my PicoPro.

EVERYTIME I brew, the keg overflows with foam. A LOT of foam. This started in Febuary and I have been in conversation with Pico about it but am getting no where. The last thing they suggested was weighing the step filter. At the end of my last brew, I heard a LOUD sucking noise. Here are a few of the emails I received:

1)

What kind of water are you using while brewing? (I'm using Arrowhead Distilled)

Some foaming from the keg seal during brewing will happen occasionally, often it is with darker heavy beers such as imperial stouts, or beers with a high protein content. It shouldn't get to the point where it's spilling over the side though.

Are you sanitizing the kegs with StarSan before brewing?

I'm not seeing anything concerning in your data though. Disassemble and check your ball lock fittings, and make sure that the in-line filter is clear and the cap is screwed on tightly.

-Kevin

2)

You're certain that it's Arrowhead Distilled, and not 'Distilled with minerals added'? (yep certain. I emailed a photo to him)

Check the ribbed gasket around the drain port in the step filter.

Check the gasket where the short dip tube is.

Let me know when you have a free keg available.

-Kevin

3)

Do you have a scale that can weigh about 10 lbs? (nope)

-Kevin

4)

I want to check the flow rate of the keg pump. We need to be able to weigh the step filter to do this.

-Kevin

Here is the most recent photo I have :
 

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Do you think this will ruin the brew? If anyone has seen this before and resolved it PLEASE let me know what you did. This is driving me nuts. I am asking Pico to replace it. I will let you know if they do.
 
It's not even beer-colored. Usually the foam that comes out of mine (not that much, obviously) is some shade of brown. I suspect detergent of some sort, or starsan. If it's soap, the brew is absolutely ruined. Starsan could go either way.

Tell us everything that happened between the end of your last successful brew, and the start of the first bad one in February.
 
Each one since Jan. (when I started) has had this issue. I use very little Starsan and when I do it's only on the posts. I am switching over to PWB as a just-in-case measure. The last batch (Citrus Saison) was the only one with very little foam. I cleaned everything the same way as I always do. Just got an email from Pico:

It sounds like what you heard was the steam generator, this is a normal noise for the end of the session.

Was the volume of water that you saw in the reservoir for the cleaning session at the end of the cycle?

Between the foam, jumpy temps, and slightly longer heat temps the most likely culprit is going to be an issue on the intake side. Either something is reducing the intake flow, or air is getting into the line somewhere.

Do you have anything like a large graduated pitcher? What we'll want to do is check the intake flow rate, then eliminate components until we find the issue.

-Kevin
 
Hi all, I am just looking for some support. I recently started brewing my first PICOPAK (Belle of the Ball). It has been fermenting for 11 days and the bubbling has nearly stopped altogether now. My concern is that there is a small brown discoloration in the airlock of the fermenter. Is this normal.. no spillage or anything it is just at the base.
 
It just means you have had pretty active fermentation, and some krausen has climbed out the vent hole. Don't worry about it. I've had a few where the airlock completely filled with krausen, and I had to remove, clean, sterilize, refill and reattach the airlock. The beer turned out fine.

I haven't had that occur since I stopped throwing an entire packet of yeast. The ones that Pico provides are sized for 5G batches.
 
Thanks for the response. Unfortunately I found this forum a little late and put all of the yeast in a couple of weeks ago. I hope my first batch isn't terrible. Thanks again!
 
Thanks for the response. Unfortunately I found this forum a little late and put all of the yeast in a couple of weeks ago. I hope my first batch isn't terrible. Thanks again!

It shouldn't be too bad. But let it sit a good 14 days. This is the longest fermenting pak I had by far.

Next brew, consider all of the tips in here. I use 1 tsp personally, and I aerate the hell out of the wort before fermenting. Make sure everything is always squeaky clean and sanitize before touching water, brew, wort or beer.

I loved my Bell of the Ball, it's a great pak. Just be patient... let it sit 14 even 16 days if you can, while in the right temperature zone of course.
 
(My Repost from another thread)

I need some help on my PicoPro.

EVERYTIME I brew, the keg overflows with foam. A LOT of foam. This started in Febuary and I have been in conversation with Pico about it but am getting no where. The last thing they suggested was weighing the step filter. At the end of my last brew, I heard a LOUD sucking noise. Here are a few of the emails I received:

1)

What kind of water are you using while brewing? (I'm using Arrowhead Distilled)

Some foaming from the keg seal during brewing will happen occasionally, often it is with darker heavy beers such as imperial stouts, or beers with a high protein content. It shouldn't get to the point where it's spilling over the side though.

Are you sanitizing the kegs with StarSan before brewing?

I'm not seeing anything concerning in your data though. Disassemble and check your ball lock fittings, and make sure that the in-line filter is clear and the cap is screwed on tightly.

-Kevin

2)

You're certain that it's Arrowhead Distilled, and not 'Distilled with minerals added'? (yep certain. I emailed a photo to him)

Check the ribbed gasket around the drain port in the step filter.

Check the gasket where the short dip tube is.

Let me know when you have a free keg available.

-Kevin

3)

Do you have a scale that can weigh about 10 lbs? (nope)

-Kevin

4)

I want to check the flow rate of the keg pump. We need to be able to weigh the step filter to do this.

-Kevin

Here is the most recent photo I have :

I brew some heavier beer, and this krausen looks normal to me. I often sit neat the pico when brewing, I go and wipe the krausen off 3-4 times during the brew.

You can also use anti foaming agents if you want and this really bothers you. Fermcap-s is an option, or so Fermcap-AT.

Personally I would worry too much about it, unless at the end of the brew, you are left with a keg half empty, them too much get out for sure.
 
Thanks for this tip. I had just put in fridge for that cold crash but took it out and noticed I’m still within the range for (almost too cold but not yet) I will let it go a few more days. Might be ready for a Sunday taster.
 
Would 2.5 us gal. kegs be good serving vessels for 2 packs? I'd think of making my brewing day duals. Small 4.4 cu ft kegerators should be able to handle 2 of those 2.5G puppies, no?
Hi I found this back on page 20 and was wondering if people do this? Does it work to do two batches of same beer and then add all to one bigger keg?
 
Hi I found this back on page 20 and was wondering if people do this? Does it work to do two batches of same beer and then add all to one bigger keg?

It does work, but take careful note that the post said serving vessels. What you shouldn't do is brew two 1.25 gallon batches, put them in a single 2.5G keg and then throw your yeast. You want to rack them together into the larger keg after fermentation is complete.

I intend to do something similar with my PicoBrew Z on the occasions that I do 5G of the same beer. Each 2.5G batch will ferment in its own 5G keg, and then be racked together into a 3rd 5G keg for carbonation and serving.
 
Is it OK to naturally carbonate in the serving keg? I have two mini kegs and 8 serving kegs (I like hard cider) and would like to make up a few batches of beer but have no place to naturally carbonate them. I'm not going to buy a mini keg for $100 (which is a ridiculous price) just to carbonate something.
 
Is it OK to naturally carbonate in the serving keg? I have two mini kegs and 8 serving kegs (I like hard cider) and would like to make up a few batches of beer but have no place to naturally carbonate them. I'm not going to buy a mini keg for $100 (which is a ridiculous price) just to carbonate something.
Yes, but you will get some sediment in your first few pours. As long as you’re ok with that, you’re good!
 
Each one since Jan. (when I started) has had this issue. I use very little Starsan and when I do it's only on the posts. I am switching over to PWB as a just-in-case measure. The last batch (Citrus Saison) was the only one with very little foam. I cleaned everything the same way as I always do. Just got an email from Pico:

It sounds like what you heard was the steam generator, this is a normal noise for the end of the session.

Was the volume of water that you saw in the reservoir for the cleaning session at the end of the cycle?

Between the foam, jumpy temps, and slightly longer heat temps the most likely culprit is going to be an issue on the intake side. Either something is reducing the intake flow, or air is getting into the line somewhere.

Do you have anything like a large graduated pitcher? What we'll want to do is check the intake flow rate, then eliminate components until we find the issue.

-Kevin

I'm not sure this is related to your foaming issue, but PBW and StarSan are not interchangeable. You need to clean your equipment with something like PBW and then sanitize it with something like StarSan. You want to clean everything pre-boil and then sanitize anything that touches the wort post-boil. There isn't any reason to use StarSan pre-boil (the boil sanitizes). I'm probably preaching to the choir, but it sounded to me like you were using StarSan to clean.

I've had that foaming issue with the 1724 ESB and the ORB Red. I've started using a couple of drops of Fermcap in the keg pre-boil. Haven't had the issue since.

I hope they find out what's wrong with your machine. I went through a couple so I know your frustration. The good news is they're very committed to making things right.
 
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Hi again everyone. This may be a shot in the dark but I am wondering if there are any other fellow Canadian Pico Brewers here that have figured a way to get the Picopacks without paying the 40$ shipping per pack? I get the international shipping but its hard to justify buying a 20$ pack and paying 40$ in shipping.. ughh.. need a better way.
 
Is that true even when you buy multiple paks? In the states shipping is free if you order two or more. Even if it's not free, it might be dramatically cheaper.
 
Is that true even when you buy multiple paks? In the states shipping is free if you order two or more. Even if it's not free, it might be dramatically cheaper.
I know that it becomes a little less that 40/ pack if i go more than one, but it still comes to well over 100$ for me to order two packs... I think i need a friend in the northeast US that i can order multiple packs to and then he can ship in one box for much cheaper than that. lol
 
Question about carbonation. I started the force carb my belle of the ball last night and even with the regulator all the way to high it only got to about 22% and it’s been in fridge overnight and now it’s only about 20%. Is it normal that the PSI goes down. Or is that the point. Will PSI go down until it’s empty. Sorry for easy question
 
It is normal to go down somewhat. 20psi is plenty. Careful you don't over-carbonate like I did to the Dragonstooth Oatmeal Stout I have on tap now. :)
 
It is normal to go down somewhat. 20psi is plenty. Careful you don't over-carbonate like I did to the Dragonstooth Oatmeal Stout I have on tap now. :)
Ok thanks for the tip. So would you say a full 36 hours or can I drink tonight after 24 hours.
 
Hi I found this back on page 20 and was wondering if people do this? Does it work to do two batches of same beer and then add all to one bigger keg?

I do this pretty much all the time. Most beers I like, I will do double batches. Ferment separately, then rack them to a 3Gal AEB keg. I keep the smaller kegs for brewing/fermenting, and in some cases, a single pak, that I am either trying or that I won't drink as much of.
 
It does work, but take careful note that the post said serving vessels. What you shouldn't do is brew two 1.25 gallon batches, put them in a single 2.5G keg and then throw your yeast. You want to rack them together into the larger keg after fermentation is complete.

I intend to do something similar with my PicoBrew Z on the occasions that I do 5G of the same beer. Each 2.5G batch will ferment in its own 5G keg, and then be racked together into a 3rd 5G keg for carbonation and serving.
Yep, or you can combine batches and ferment in a conical. for more than 2 paks, I find the cost of the conical to be better than buying fermenting kegs. You need the space though.

And BTW, 3Gal kegs don't fit in anything less than 5 cu ft I found. All the 4.x cu ft fridges I have tried, the door won't close. So either get a try bar fridge where the door is solid, without any storage, or go 5+ cu ft. and if you don't own one, and if space permits, look at making a keezer/kegarator. My 5.x cu ft keezer hold 6 paks (2 double batches in 3Gal kegs, and 2 singles) and is barely bigger than the bar fridge I had but became unreliable after freezing a batch that was cold crashing. It turned fine BTW. thawed over 4 days, and carbed it.
 
I know that it becomes a little less that 40/ pack if i go more than one, but it still comes to well over 100$ for me to order two packs... I think i need a friend in the northeast US that i can order multiple packs to and then he can ship in one box for much cheaper than that. lol

Upstate NY, VT, NH and ME there is often a border town with a rental address. They typically charge per delivery. It can make a huge difference. If UPS was more reliable and not trying to gauge me, I'd stick to that, but no other choice really. Fortunately enough, I live 45min away from the border, so getting something from either country is never a huge deal. I just need to figure out which is cheaper.
 
This is a very long thread so if this question has been answered, please excuse me for not being able to find the answer.
Can you add adjuncts to the picopaks once you receive it? Like coriander and orange peel, etc.?
 
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