Panel Breaker/On-Off Switch Question

[ChrisfromAbby]

I'm building a simple panel to control my pumps and automate my HLT. It'll run at 110VAC max. 10A

I'd like to have a master switch to turn the panel on and off. I ran across these http://www.mcmaster.com/#push-button-circuit-breaker-switches/=zfu2v9
Which I thought might be a nice way to incorporate a circuit breaker at the same time. But I noted that they are rated for 240VAC. Does this matter for this purpose? - The problem is I know a little about the inverse-square law... I am correct that the fact that I'm only running 110vac (ie just one hot wire) through the breaker will not affect the amperage required to blow the circuit? Or would a 10A breaker in essence become a 40A breaker (not good!)

The alternative was to have an ON / OFF button - but I was having a hard time finding a "maintained" action switch at least at a reasonable price. And I'd still need a breaker.
Looking for suggestions and advice.

Chris

 

[itsnotrequired]

nah, no inverse rules when rating a circuit breaker. amps are amps. if your system only draws 10 amps, you'll be fine with one of those 15 amp breakers.

 

[FuzzeWuzze]

I'm building a simple panel to control my pumps and automate my HLT. It'll run at 110VAC max. 10A

I'd like to have a master switch to turn the panel on and off. I ran across these http://www.mcmaster.com/#push-button-circuit-breaker-switches/=zfu2v9
Which I thought might be a nice way to incorporate a circuit breaker at the same time. But I noted that they are rated for 240VAC. Does this matter for this purpose? - The problem is I know a little about the inverse-square law... I am correct that the fact that I'm only running 110vac (ie just one hot wire) through the breaker will not affect the amperage required to blow the circuit? Or would a 10A breaker in essence become a 40A breaker (not good!)

The alternative was to have an ON / OFF button - but I was having a hard time finding a "maintained" action switch at least at a reasonable price. And I'd still need a breaker.
Looking for suggestions and advice.

Chris

Have you looked at Amazon? You can buy a 2 way position toggle switch for like $6.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VG9GGUM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009IPEB8A/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Having a breaker in the switch wont really add anything above what your normal GFCI breaker will give you. Dont think you can just install that and not need a GFCI breaker.
If your worrying about the current on the switch, dont. If wired properly you are not actually passing much current at all through the switch. The switch is usually just a means to control a contactor whose coils only take a few milliamps usually to trigger. You should never wire high current through your switches for safety reasons. If that doesnt make sense, ask lots of questions so you dont hurt yourself and get your wiring done right

 

[jeffmeh]

And remember that you must size your breaker to trip based upon the lowest current rating of your wiring and components, or use additional breakers or fuses to protect lower rated circuits.

 

[iijakii]

What's your outlets up there in Canadia? If you have typical 15 or 20A circuits like we do here in the US I'd just use standard outlet for your power-in/out, some of those 2-pole toggle switches and correct gauge (12, 14) wire for the circuit. That way you dont have to dick around with stepdown breakers or fuses.

 

[ChrisfromAbby]

We are 120v/15A for standard household circuits here. And yes, the outlet I'm using as power supply is GFCI protected.
The reason I was was wanting that particular switch was that IS built to handle the full current AND will have a lower amperage setting (10A) to protect my panel.

Back to the old drawing board though, McMaster won't ship it to me as I'm not a business due to export licencing. :-(

Chris

 

[ChrisfromAbby]

The switch is usually just a means to control a contactor whose coils only take a few milliamps usually to trigger. You should never wire high current through your switches for safety reasons. If that doesnt make sense, ask lots of questions so you dont hurt yourself and get your wiring done right

Oh, I see what you were talking about now. Sorry, I rambled.

Any suggestions on a good contactor to work with this switch http://www.amazon.ca/Locking-2-Posi...160564-20&ie=UTF8&refRID=1A59DZCW7M5E0FJED3DB that you suggested?

Chris

 

[Brumateur]

http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001KGSJ74/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[ChrisfromAbby]

And would you go so far as to run a 120v Chugger pump through a contactor as well,or is simply running it through a switch sufficient?

Chris

 

[ChrisfromAbby]

http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001KGSJ74/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Nice. I guess it doesn't matter if the contactor is rated for 30A on a 15A circuit right, as it's not acting as a breaker?

 

[Brumateur]

Sure. You can use higher rated elements with no problem.

 

[ChrisfromAbby]

Here's a question. At what point do you decide to use a contactor? I mean I understand that they are used for switching high voltage or current under load. I'm thinking of the chugger pumps (single phase 110VAC motors) for example - they will be under load the moment they turn on and at 1.4A each are the heaviest draws in my panel. Does that still warrant a contactor? Or is wiring them directly through a switch "safe"? What is the cutoff?
I ask because I have run them directly through a simple switch for the last few years and would like to know of this is considered unsafe.
Chris

 

[jeffmeh]

Here's a question. At what point do you decide to use a contactor? I mean I understand that they are used for switching high voltage or current under load. I'm thinking of the chugger pumps (single phase 110VAC motors) for example - they will be under load the moment they turn on and at 1.4A each are the heaviest draws in my panel. Does that still warrant a contactor? Or is wiring them directly through a switch "safe"? What is the cutoff?
I ask because I have run them directly through a simple switch for the last few years and would like to know of this is considered unsafe.
Chris

No need for a contactor for the pump. Actually, not absolutely required if you have a suitably rated switch for your application. That said, there are advantages beyond safety, e.g, reducing the footprint of the operator interface components.

 

[ChrisfromAbby]

I'd like to have a master switch to turn the panel on and off. I ran across these http://www.mcmaster.com/#push-button-circuit-breaker-switches/=zfu2v9

Chris

Turns out, they won't ship it to me anyhow. Only to business addresses outside of the USA due to export licensing issues. Have ordered a contactor and a switch to control it. Thanks for all the help guys!

Chris

 

[ChrisfromAbby]

I picked up this contactor but I have some questions!

This model doesn't come marked, but can I assume; the silver contact in the center is one side of the coil which matches the other silver contact on the other side not visible? And, that the brass contacts are the line and load contacts with the cicuits running from side to side ( not back to front)?

Lastly, maybe a newb question, but can I assume most contractors or in particular this contactor, operate under sustained actuation not momentary? That is, it requires a sustained action switch?

Chris

 

[ChrisfromAbby]

Sorry image didn't load first time around.

 

[iijakii]

Yes,

The sides have the spade terminals and that is your coil. When energized it closes the circuit between the left and right side. You need maintained switches for that, as once you remove power they open up once again.

The big brass lugs are for your line and load, yes. There's no left/right in out orientation, doesn't matter which way your power flows through it.

Can't see your pictures.

 

[ChrisfromAbby]

You did a great description! Although the image got rotated from what I had planned, it seems to match your explanation.

Chris

 

[FuzzeWuzze]

Yup, your hot and neutral off your main power input go through it, controlled through a switch hooked up via the hot and Neutral coming in from the same power input. When you flip the switch and enable the contactor it lets the main power into the rest of your box.

 

[ChrisfromAbby]

Once again HBT rocks!