Paging RO system/push-connect fitting experts

[RyPA]

I found a very slow leak at a check valve fitting, I tried snugging up the tube into the fitting, but it still leaks very slowly -- a few drops over the span of say 5 hours.

1. Should I just try cutting the end of the tube and re-seating it, or do these fittings deteriorate and need replacement. My system is around 2 years old.
2. If I end up replacing the fitting, is it worth buying the John Guest brand fittings, or should I just buy whatever has solid reviews on Amazon? I was thinking as parts go, replacing with better so the entire system gets better parts I'm fairly certain that everything in my setup is from China.

The John Guest brand valve alone is like $15, while I can instead buy an off-brand 30-piece kit of mixed fittings, including 5 check valves, for the same price.

Thanks

 

[Knightshade]

My RO system has what I'm thinking are colored Evabarrier and John Guest fittings by looking at them, but I've never taken it apart so it hasn't ever given me any problems.

However, on the beer side with Duotight and a intermixing of JG fittings for some reason, when I do have a leak it is usually because I disconnected a line, ignored that it had creases in it, was discolored, etc., so it is my own fault. Cutting off the "damaged" part of the line and putting it back together again always fixes the problem.

Don't have any experience with liquid push fittings other than the 2 brands I've mentioned above, but I've had to deal with significant water damage in my house before so I'm paranoid as hell about doing whatever I can to ensure I don't have to deal with that again. A couple extra bucks up front is worth the couple of thousand or more a water leak could introduce into your life.

 

[Deadalus]

A lot of the kits on Amazon are 1/4",6mm, so make sure you are looking at the right size (5/16, 8mm or 3/8", 9mm).

Did you try Freshwater Systems? Generally inexpensive but you will have to pay shipping. I just wait usually for when I have to order online for ingredients and add in Duotights. Brewhardware has some of the least expensive prices for Duotights. I keep a couple spares, the 1/4 flarex8mm adapter is good to have an extra of.

 

[Deadalus]

Duotights don't do well with long soaking in Starsan and I follow not doing that for other brands too.

 

[RyPA]

@Deadalus I used a caliper to check the OD of my lines and they are 1/4”.

I am going to replace the check valve with the John Guest brand part. I am with you @Knightshade, I am paranoid about this setup in my kitchen and anything water/plumbing in general, and have debated removing the unit from under my kitchen sink and connecting it only when needed.

I am planning to put the unit in a 2 foot tall tub, with a water sensing alarm, so if it does spring a leak, its contained and I will be alerted to it.

 

[Deadalus]

@Deadalus I used a caliper to check the OD of my lines and they are 1/4”.

I am going to replace the check valve with the John Guest brand part. I am with you @Knightshade, I am paranoid about this setup in my kitchen and anything water/plumbing in general, and have debated removing the unit from under my kitchen sink and connecting it only when needed.

I am planning to put the unit in a 2 foot tall tub, with a water sensing alarm, so if it does spring a leak, its contained and I will be alerted to it.

My bad, I was focused on the push to connect and didn't pay attention to the RO in the title. I happened to have spent a lot of time looking for check valves for 8mm a little ways back, it's what drives up the price if one is building a ptc manifold vs the rail type. It's not integral on the valve like the metal shutoffs. Amazon does have a lot of 6mm fittings in sets and that size is a little less common in LHBS but Freshwater Systems does have a lot of 1/4" ptc fittings.

You could probably put a good valve on the feed to the RO. I have my system mounted to my brew stand as I felt the filter on the fridge supply was decent enough to not need it in the kitchen. But others use RO water a little more extensively so user preference.

 

[Buckeye_Hydro]

You may be able to find what you need here: https://www.buckeyehydro.com/fittings/

If you have a leak where the tube enters the quick connect fitting (rather than from where the fitting screws in), then the likely cause is:
1. Tube not cut cleanly and squarely
2. Tube not inserted into the fitting all the way (pushed through the oring)
3. Tube torqued to the side right after it comes out of the fitting.
4. Tube damaged/scratched where it contacts the oring.

 

[RyPA]

You may be able to find what you need here: https://www.buckeyehydro.com/fittings/

If you have a leak where the tube enters the quick connect fitting (rather than from where the fitting screws in), then the likely cause is:
1. Tube not cut cleanly and squarely
2. Tube not inserted into the fitting all the way (pushed through the oring)
3. Tube torqued to the side right after it comes out of the fitting.
4. Tube damaged/scratched where it contacts the oring.

View attachment 868420

I already ordered the new part and it arrives tomorrow so I’m just going to roll with it. It has been sealed fine for 2 years and many many gallons of water, maybe the rubber seat is deteriorating and/or there is some mineral build up. Thanks for responding.