over foamed beer from keg?

[arborman]

Ok, so I put an IPA extract kit into a keg, and this is my first time ever doing a keg. Its only been in the keg for about 3-4 days. The refrig temp is about 36-38, and I set my keg pressure to 12. I rocked the keg a few minutes when I first hooked up the gas, and then the next few days I would give it a gentle rock once or twice a day. I noticed that in the morning on the first few days, the pressure would drop down to 10, so I would turn it back up to 12. It has since stabilized at 12. Well, last night I thought I would take a test of my beer. I hooked up the liquid line, and when I poured into a glass, it came out pretty quickly and built up a large head. The head was very creamy, and eventually shrank in half. The beer tasted good, lightly carbonated... But, is there a way to get this fast pour/large head to settle down? Should I bleed off the keg and crank the pressure down? Or, will this settle down in another weeks time?

Thanks!

 

[TopherM]

How long are your lines? The lines that typically come with a kegorator are good for commercial sanke kegs, but too short for corny kegs. You need somewhere around a 10-12 foot serving line. Here's the exact calculation:

http://beersmith.com/blog/2011/07/14/keg-line-length-balancing-the-science-of-draft-beer/

Also, note that the "shake the keg" method of force carbonating is far from reliable. It is very easy to overcarb a beer with that method. The best way to force carb a beer is to put it on the desired serving pressure and temperature and just leave it for 7-10 days.

One of those two (or the combo of both) is your issue.

Good luck!

 

[arborman]

Thanks for the reply.... I figured the lines where the proper size, since I bought them from a well known HB store. It came as a kit, corny, gas tank, reg and gas/beer line. I think the line is around 6' in length.

If I bleed off the tank will that help? Is my beer going to be foamed for the whole batch? I hope I didn't blow this...

 

[arborman]

I just measured my line, its actually 5' in length. It has the cobra head on it as well. Found this from and article:

12 PSI ÷ 2.2 PSI/ft = 5.45 ft

This means I will need about 5.5 feet of 3/16″ beer line for each line on my kegging system. The other thing that you need to take into account is the faucets you will be using. Beer faucets provide additional resistance to beer flow that make the above calculation come out correctly. However, if you use a cobra tap, this does not provide as much resistance and the beer will tend to flow out faster and foam more than if you are using a beer faucet. For this reason, add an extra foot of tubing if you plan to use the cobra tap."


Do you guys think if I get a longer line (6.5 feet w/cobra tap) it will solve my problem?

 

[TopherM]

It would certainly help to balance your tap lines, but if you are that close already, I would assume for this batch in particular, you overcarbed it.

That's the thing about the "shake" method, just a few extra shakes, or leaving it on high pressure for just a small time too much, and you overcarb. I would urge you to use the "set it and forget it" method in the future whenever possible.

You can bleed this one to tone down the carb. Pull the release valve to bleed completely (with the gas disconnected, of course), and repeat every hour until you get to your desired carb level. Put the gas back on at 8-12 PSI.

An easier thing for this time is just pour the foamy beer into a pitcher and let the pitcher settle when you want to drink it, then fix your procedure for the next keg.

 

[Yooper]

The lines might be "right" by the math, but I've experienced this same thing. I started with 6' lines, went to 8', and then finally settled for 10' lines.

Having a line "too long" will only mean pouring a beer takes two seconds longer, but there won't be excessive foaming or any other issues.

At 36 degrees, 12 psi is well carbed. See the chart: http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php

 

[gcdowd]

When I first got my kegerator, the lines were 5 feet and i was having foaming issues (3/16 ID line). I have my pressure set to 12 psi. I swapped the lines out and got 10 foot lines, same problem. However, after reading that article, I'm starting to think my lines are WAY too long. 3 psi reisistance per foot puts my line length at about 4 feet. How can you set the pressure to 12 and use 10 foot lines and not have problems? I'm asking in seriousness because I gotta solve this problem for myself.

Edit: My other thought was that somehow maybe the beer in the line is warmer and CO2 is escaping. Sometimes I do notice bubbles in the line. In that event, how would I fix it?

 

[Yooper]

When I first got my kegerator, the lines were 5 feet and i was having foaming issues (3/16 ID line). I have my pressure set to 12 psi. I swapped the lines out and got 10 foot lines, same problem. However, after reading that article, I'm starting to think my lines are WAY too long. 3 psi reisistance per foot puts my line length at about 4 feet. How can you set the pressure to 12 and use 10 foot lines and not have problems? I'm asking in seriousness because I gotta solve this problem for myself.

Edit: My other thought was that somehow maybe the beer in the line is warmer and CO2 is escaping. Sometimes I do notice bubbles in the line. In that event, how would I fix it?

A "too long" line wouldn't foam at all- it would be a slower pour. A "too short" line would foam like a fire hose leaving flat, but foamy, beer.

It does sound like you've got some issues, though, because you shouldn't have bubbles in the beer line. Is it possible that it's overcarbed? Turning the pressure down to serve can cause that bubbling, too.

 

[gcdowd]

A "too long" line wouldn't foam at all- it would be a slower pour. A "too short" line would foam like a fire hose leaving flat, but foamy, beer.

It does sound like you've got some issues, though, because you shouldn't have bubbles in the beer line. Is it possible that it's overcarbed? Turning the pressure down to serve can cause that bubbling, too.

I'm thinking not because I do the set and forget method. So it should be equalized at 12 psi right?

 

[Yooper]

I'm thinking not because I do the set and forget method. So it should be equalized at 12 psi right?

Yes.

Another reason for some foam is if the diptube or poppit gets some debris in it. Then it's sort of like pinching a garden hose. If it's not overcarbed, and the pour was previously good, that would be a decent bet. You could depressurize, and take off the post and eyeball the diptube (hold it up to the light) and check the poppit. I've had that happen occasionally.

 

[241]

I just kegged my first batch and did the set and forget method for 10+ days. I did notice that the beer off of the keg after 5 days was foamy, but settled down after the 10th day. I also noticed that with my picnic tap setup, you have to open it all the way as fast as possible.

 

[gcdowd]

Yes.

Another reason for some foam is if the diptube or poppit gets some debris in it. Then it's sort of like pinching a garden hose. If it's not overcarbed, and the pour was previously good, that would be a decent bet. You could depressurize, and take off the post and eyeball the diptube (hold it up to the light) and check the poppit. I've had that happen occasionally.

I'll definitely check but I think it's a bigger issue. It has persisted for a while. I'm wondering if it's temp differences in the line. Wondering is a fan in my kegerator would help

 

[rfavors]

I know there is some debate about it now, but I solved my foaming issues with the inserts mentioned in this thread :

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/cure-your-short-hose-troubles-100151/

I have about 5 foot lines and had foaming even at lower PSI levels. Now I get perfect pours even at higher PSI settings for hefes.

 

[b-boy]

I'll definitely check but I think it's a bigger issue. It has persisted for a while. I'm wondering if it's temp differences in the line. Wondering is a fan in my kegerator would help

I think a fan in a keezer is a must-have. It prevents temp stratification inside the unit. Temp differences usually result in a foamy first pour (after the keg has been sitting for awhile). If you get a foamy pour followed by normal pours, that could be your problem.

 

[gcdowd]

It's not just the first pour though, it's pretty much always. How would you rig up a fan and what kind of fan?

Edit: Sorry OP for the hijack btw

 

[pabloj13]

I think a fan in a keezer is a must-have. It prevents temp stratification inside the unit. Temp differences usually result in a foamy first pour (after the keg has been sitting for awhile). If you get a foamy pour followed by normal pours, that could be your problem.

Plus if you have a broken computer with a fan inside it and an old cell phone charger, it's free and easy to make.

 

[ThatGeekGuy]

Just Google 'kegerator tower cooler' and you'll find lots of DIY and off the shelf solutions. I built one myself and it works great.

 

[arborman]

Well guys, I got your advice and the problem seems to have been solved. I picked up a 10' length of line and it worked like a charm. I'm a little curious as to why my LHBS would sell a 5' long serving line with the kits. Don't they want to make you come back and shop by selling you the right gear to begin with?

Anyhow, thanks for the advice!

 

[Yooper]

Well guys, I got your advice and the problem seems to have been solved. I picked up a 10' length of line and it worked like a charm. I'm a little curious as to why my LHBS would sell a 5' long serving line with the kits. Don't they want to make you come back and shop by selling you the right gear to begin with?

Anyhow, thanks for the advice!

I don't have an answer for you on that- except that by the charts, it SHOULD work. It just doesn't seem to in real life.