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greenhaze

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Brewing an amber ale. Question is what's the optimum temp to take you pre boil at ?
At 140 degrees beersmith calculates 1.025 to be 1.044.
At 80 degrees it calculates 1.040 to be 1.042.
Any ideas ?
Slainte
 
You should cool it before you take the hydrometer reading. It's a lot less accurate if you take it hotter and adjust the reading. Also, I tried to take a reading after the mash once and it melted my sample tube.
 
Yea it's in the fridge, I think I read that 68 degrees is the optimum, but don't quote me on that.
Slainte
 
The most optimum temp is whatever temperature your hydrometer is calibrated for. I think most of them are calibrated to 60F. But I think some are 68F too. It should say on it or on the package if you still have it.
 
peterj said:
The most optimum temp is whatever temperature your hydrometer is calibrated for. I think most of them are calibrated to 60F. But I think some are 68F too. It should say on it or on the package if you still have it.

Just checked mine it's 60 degrees. Right now the sample is at 68, just have to wait a little bit longer.
Slainte
 
You should cool it before you take the hydrometer reading. It's a lot less accurate if you take it hotter and adjust the reading. Also, I tried to take a reading after the mash once and it melted my sample tube.

+1 on both (I melted my tube once, as well. :smack:)
 
Just checked mine it's 60 degrees. Right now the sample is at 68, just have to wait a little bit longer.
Slainte

You can take the reading now. The correction for a 7-8 degree difference is minimal- if you get 1.050 at 68 degrees, then the actual reading is 1.051. That's pretty negligible, and it's accurate as well.

I always cool mine to about 80 degrees or so, then use temperature correction tables to get the actual reading. Once you're below about 90 degrees, the correction tables are very accurate. Over 100, the readings are useless as they are very inaccurate.
 
You can take the reading now. The correction for a 7-8 degree difference is minimal- if you get 1.050 at 68 degrees, then the actual reading is 1.051. That's pretty negligible, and it's accurate as well.

I always cool mine to about 80 degrees or so, then use temperature correction tables to get the actual reading. Once you're below about 90 degrees, the correction tables are very accurate. Over 100, the readings are useless as they are very inaccurate.

amen! I quit trying to get a jump on my readings about 12 years ago & just take one at pitching temp.


edit: unless I'm brewing a lager.
 
Billy-Klubb said:
amen! I quit trying to get a jump on my readings about 12 years ago & just take one at pitching temp.

edit: unless I'm brewing a lager.

Yes I noticed that the reading at 68 was the same as at 60. And from 80 to 60 it was .001 difference
Second AG under my belt.
Slainte
 
Yes I noticed that the reading at 68 was the same as at 60. And from 80 to 60 it was .001 difference
Second AG under my belt.
Slainte

I've only been AG for a little over a year myself. been brewing since '99 though. alot of different techniques to learn, but worth it, eh? :mug:
 
Billy-Klubb said:
I've only been AG for a little over a year myself. been brewing since '99 though. alot of different techniques to learn, but worth it, eh? :mug:

Yea lots to learn. Have to say loads of fun sitting in side yard, mashing, sparging, boiling, chilling and drinking beer.
Fermenter now in temp controlled chest freezer, set at 64. Hurry up and ferment !!
Slainte
 
Yooper said:
You can take the reading now. The correction for a 7-8 degree difference is minimal- if you get 1.050 at 68 degrees, then the actual reading is 1.051. That's pretty negligible, and it's accurate as well.

I always cool mine to about 80 degrees or so, then use temperature correction tables to get the actual reading. Once you're below about 90 degrees, the correction tables are very accurate. Over 100, the readings are useless as they are very inaccurate.

+1 Yooper! I agree 100% with your statement
 
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