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Nottingham attentuation of 83%?

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soupfist

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Brewed Biermuncher's famous Centennial Blonde recently, which I've done many times before but for the 1st time as all-grain instead of partial mash.

By my hydrometer measurements, I had a 1.043 OG and ended with a 1.007 FG, for an attenuation of 83%. I didn't keep great records back in the partial-mash days, but I'm pretty sure that's a lot higher than usual, and while I'm not complaining (yay, more alcohol!:drunk:), I know for a fact either my pre-boil or post-boil hydrometer sample measurement was incorrect, because the gravity was stronger after boil-off than the pre-boil calculation said it would be. My assumption was the pre-boil measurement was off, because it was kind of foamy and still a little on the hot side even after cooling it off, whereas I measured post-boil after cooling and it was nice and clear. But if Notty isn't likely to attenuate past about 75% and the 1.007 FG is accurate, maybe it was my post-boil sample that was incorrect and thus this beer will be weaker than expected (and my efficiency not as high as I thought it was).

Either way I just bought a refractometer so I'm done with hydro samples now (for all except FG measurements, of course). Just trying to properly learn from my mistakes. What do you think - did I really get 83% or is it more likely I'm off somewhere?
 
It's certainly possible to hit 83% attenuation with Nottingham, there's no reason to doubt your measurements. Are you sure your thermometer is accurate and you didn't mash lower than intended? Mash thickness and duration can also impact fermentability.
 
I think 83 is certainly possible. Also, a refractometer is only good before you pitch the yeast.
 
Your volume measurements could be off and not your hydro reads. You say your pre-boil gravity was warm, did you do a temp correction?

You prob got more attenuation because of your mash. Even if hit your strike temp. Did it drop during the mash? How long did it take to sparge and what temp was the sparge water? All things to consider.

There is nothing wrong with your hydrometer. I don't think accuracy of hydro reads is a reason to switch to refractometer.


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I just brewed a black IPA where I mashed at 148. The was supposed to clock in at about 8.7% . The Notty attenuated to 83% and I got a 10% black IPA haha.
 
I've brewed the centennial blonde twice now. First batch started at 1.040, second at 1.039. Both have finished at 1.006 with nottingham.
I'm still having a temp loss issue during mash so maybe that's part of the problem. Both batches turned out better than store bought beer, at least to me anyway.
Definitely one I'll keep on hand as often as possible


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