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Middy

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Hello I’m very limited on my Supplies since I live in Japan . So I was wondering can I brew beer with only having normal sugar, soap, 2 25 liter buckets,1 20 liter kettle, filtered water, and star san sanitizer? I’m going to try and brew Morgan’s Royal Oak Amber Ale, since it was the easy for me to get .
 
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Are you asking about brewing an extract kit? If so, you should be able to do it with that equipment, as long as you have some way to package the finished beer.

Brew on :mug:
 
Can you brew? -Yes.

Will it be good? - Maybe.

Do the buckets have lids, and does that extract kit come with yeast? (If the answers are Yes, then you have a decent shot at it working).
 
Are you asking about brewing an extract kit? If so, you should be able to do it with that equipment, as long as you have some way to package the finished beer.

Brew on :mug:
Yes it’s an extract I have bottles , but I plan on doing brew in a bag eventually.
 
Can you brew? -Yes.

Will it be good? - Maybe.

Do the buckets have lids, and does that extract kit come with yeast? (If the answers are Yes, then you have a decent shot at it working).
Yes they both have lids and airlocks, and the ale came with its own yeast. I am hoping to move up to brew in a bag after a few good batches of beer.
 
You appear to have the basic tools needed.

You will find a lot of good advice on this forum.

To be very brief - You may only have so much control over the quality of the outcome using an extract kit. If the extract is too old, you may not be able to make 'great' beer from it.

Consider seeping a few fresh grains as well, and try to ferment within the lower end of the recommended range for that yeast/kit.
 
You appear to have the basic tools needed.

You will find a lot of good advice on this forum.

To be very brief - You may only have so much control over the quality of the outcome using an extract kit. If the extract is too old, you may not be able to make 'great' beer from it.

Consider seeping a few fresh grains as well, and try to ferment within the lower end of the recommended range for that yeast/kit.
What grains would you recommend? My apartment is very cold so I’ll be keeping the fermentation bucket wrapped in a heated blanket to try and keep the temperature consistent.
 
Just my opinion, I would steep 2 lbs of 2-row pale malt (just any basic pale malt to add some fresh grain flavor), .5 of carmel or crystal malt (anything from 20-90L), and .25 flaked oats (instant oatmeal) just to add some body and mouthfeel). Just crush those and steep in a bag while the water warms from up to 155F and then pull (or just 15 minutes at 155 if the water heats faster than that). -This just gives a layer of fresh grain flavor to work with whatever the extract is going to do.

Do you know what yeast you will use?
 
Just my opinion, I would steep 2 lbs of 2-row pale malt (just any basic pale malt to add some fresh grain flavor), .5 of carmel or crystal malt (anything from 20-90L), and .25 flaked oats (instant oatmeal) just to add some body and mouthfeel). Just crush those and steep in a bag while the water warms from up to 155F and then pull (or just 15 minutes at 155 if the water heats faster than that). -This just gives a layer of fresh grain flavor to work with whatever the extract is going to do.

Do you know what yeast you will use?
Thanks I’ll try that. Unfortunately I do not know the yeast.
 
FWIW, a 2-row pale malt needs to be mashed to convert starches into sugars. What is being proposed will add some fresh grain flavor (desired) but will also add additional starches (which may not be desired).

True. - But I wasn't suggesting it for the extra sugars (which the extract kit will already provide), just the flavor.
 
Hello I’m very limited on my Supplies since I live in Japan . So I was wondering can I brew beer with only having normal sugar, soap, 2 25 liter buckets,1 20 liter kettle, filtered water, and star san sanitizer? I’m going to try and brew Morgan’s Royal Oak Amber Ale, since it was the easy for me to get .
You should try to get a hydrometer, too. This will allow you to know when fermentation is done (final gravity - FG) so you can safely bottle. You'll also be able to get the ABV of your beer if interested.
 
Is this approach something you typically do when you brew extract kits?

Yes. One of the most common tips I've seen for improving extract kits is to just steep some fresh grains to add some depth of flavor. Even good extract can come off a bit one-note if you don't add anything. This kit specifically (online) advises adding 2 lbs of malt or grain and/or .5 dextrose or sugar.

I almost always incorporate some level of fresh grains into an extract batch. If nothing else, you can smell the difference.
 
One of the most common tips I've seen for improving extract kits is to just steep some fresh grains to add some depth of flavor. [...] I almost always incorporate some level of fresh grains into an extract batch
When I brewed kits, they always came with some amount of crystal/caramel/roasted malts. Since then, I've made a number of "hop focused" beers that are DME only.

A steep (for 15 minutes while the water warms up) of a base malt is unusual. :mug:
 
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@BrewnWKopperKat - In my experience, you don't need 30-60 minutes to get flavor from base malts, just the sugars. If you don't need the sugars, then 15-20 minutes warming up to or at 155F is sufficient to add flavor to an extra recipe.
I think BrewnKopperKat was referring to steeping a base malt VS a caramel, roasted or crystal. I agree that steeping a base malt is a different approach, but of course viable.
BrewnKopperKat correct me if I misinterpreted you.
 
Thanks man I really appreciate the help.
Middy, do you have all the ingredients and tools that the kit asks for?
Others have affirmed that you can use the equipment you have for the task.
But if you review the instructions is there anything that you have a question about?

If this is your first brew, I would be inclined to keep it simple and not deviate from the kit instructions if possible.
That's my opinion for what it's worth.
 
There are brewers here who would cringe at the idea of steeping base malts. I'm not one of them.

I'm adding it to my list of things to try. :mug:
I know I like the smell and taste of a fresh mash of base malt so I can see how it might bring something to the mix.
And there's nothing wrong with unique flavor if it's enjoyable.
 
@BrewnWKopperKat If you don't need the sugars, then 15-20 minutes warming up to or at 155F is sufficient to add flavor to an extra recipe.
I think there may be some additional sugars, maybe even a lot.
For well modified and milled malt the enzymes work pretty quickly.
If it takes 10 minutes to go from 148 - 155 that's a fair amount of time in enzyme world. And during that time you are well within the light body to medium body range. ;)

Heck the OP says he endeavors to do BIAB so a abbreviated partial mash is a pretty good practice session
@Middy, do you have iodine?
 
There are brewers here who would cringe at the idea of steeping base malts. I'm not one of them.

I'm adding it to my list of things to try. :mug:

was a "not" missing in that? honestly not sure....

I think there may be some additional sugars, maybe even a lot.

which is why most partial extract brewers would cringe at 'not' steeping the base malt?

am i at a loss at what temp steeping means? i mean hotter then room temp, but not boiling?

FWIW, a 2-row pale malt needs to be mashed to convert starches into sugars.

mashing is steeping though? is there where i lost track? steep and strain the liquid.....partial mashing usually uses a small kinda hop bag right?
 
I think the only real difference between mash and steep when brewing in a bag is mash usually means 140-170F for 30-90 minutes, steep usually means 100-150F for 10-30 minutes.

Some malts you only need to steep. But yes, base malts you usually mash. I just think you can steep base malts as well if you just want flavor and don't care as much about getting all the sugars from them.

Of course, I also enjoy piss flavored beer .....maybe I should have led with that. =c)
 
@BrewnWKopperKat - In my experience, you don't need 30-60 minutes to get flavor from base malts, just the sugars. If you don't need the sugars, then 15-20 minutes warming up to or at 155F is sufficient to add flavor to an extra recipe.

15-20 minutes at 155F is a mash that would normally be long enough for full conversion of starches into sugars and dextrins. It wouldn't be the most attenuable wort (high-ish temp, short time), but it would generally be a mash with complete conversion.

15-20 minutes "warming up to" 155? My guess would be that that's usually not going to spend enough time in/near the range for efficient saccharification to get full conversion done, so there will be some unconverted starches along with the flavor. But just maybe an ideal combination of very high diastatic power malt, fine grind, pH, and even the water's calcium level could get it done. But this option isn't one I'd bet a paycheck on (for full conversion).
 
Well, I've spent a lot of paychecks to make just homebrew.


i haven't? it's really not that serious to me.

in fact i've helped a buddy once brew a 1 gallon batch in his appt ...just used a 1 gallon cooler..dumpped the malt into a colander over a 2 gallon cheap pot...boiled...cooled in the sink, and into a carlo rosi bottle it went....it was really good, because his heater didn't work, and i told him to use lager yeast or it won't ferment..... lol, it was fun....


edit: i forgot the pouring hot water over the grains also.....
 
@VikeMan - but that was the point, you don't need saccharification and full conversion if you don't need the sugar from the base malt. It's just being used to add flavor.

I'm not sure we're saying the same thing, so to amplify/clarify...

With 15-20 minutes at 155F, you are likely to get full conversion. Full conversion is simply conversion of all the starches into things that are not starch... glucose, fructose, sucrose, maltose, maltotriose, and higher (unfermentable) dextrins. Regardless of the mix of these sugars/dextrins, if the starch is gone, full conversion happened.

Regarding saccharification, you'll get that too. You won't get as many fermentable sugars as with a longer/cooler mash, but the amount won't be insignificant either. If by saccharification you mean conversion of starches into just fermentable sugars, with no higher (unfermentable) dextrins left over, that doesn't happen in any mash. If it did, our beers' final gravities would routinely be below 1.000.
 
I think the only real difference between mash and steep when brewing in a bag is mash usually means 140-170F for 30-90 minutes, steep usually means 100-150F for 10-30 minutes.
With a mash you have a water to grain ratio that is much different from and less than a steep. Most of the steeping instructions (at least used to) say put a couple gallons of water in a pot and heat it then steep a small amount of grain, usually 2 pounds of grains or less. Steep is a little grain in a lot of water. Mash is a lot of grain in a little water. Makes a difference.
 
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