NOT boiling DME for full 60min

[mobilecabinworks]

If your doing a grain bag you want to steep that @ 152 for 30-40 min. Then bring to boil and slowly add all extract while stirring. You didn't talk about your hops but at boil is when you put in your bittering hops also. Then aroma hops at about 50 min into the 60 min boil.

As far as the hot break I've never understood the science. I need to hear from someone with tons of experience to splain this to me.

I've done 20 or so batches and have many recipes of my own and always wanted one at 175-180 to see what happens.

Mike

Hopefully this will help explain it
http://brianbeer.blogspot.com/2008/03/importance-of-full-wort-boil.html

 

[jtrux]

Thanks for the reply.

Hop schedule I am planning on is as follows.

1 oz magnum (14%) @ 60min
1 oz perle (8%) @ 30min
1 oz Sterling (7.5%) @ 10min
1 oz perle & 1 oz sterling dry for 7 days

Est ABV 7.2%
Bitterness 38.2
Color 6.5
Est OG 1.074
Est FG 1.019

US 05 yeast

This is my first attempt at formulating my own recipe so I am sorta shooting from the hip. Trying a very loose interpatation of Abita's SOS.
http://abita.com/brews/sos.php

I know I should be using a lager yeast, but temp here in gulf coast are all over the place with some days still in the 80's. and I don't have a chest freezer yet. Any thoughts or suggestions would be welcome

Thanks again.
Jeremy

 

[hoppybrewster]

Hopefully this will help explain it
http://brianbeer.blogspot.com/2008/03/importance-of-full-wort-boil.html

Thanks for the link. I digested it with my turkey dinner. Following the method above by adding extract at flame-out then all I'm boiling is the grain bag tea and my hop additions at flame out, correct?

Mike

Sent from my iPod touch using HB Talk

 

[mobilecabinworks]

Not entirely correct. You have to have some extract in the boil in order to correctly isomerize your hops. I always kinda figure about 1 lb per gallon. But for me on smaller recipes with around 6lbs of extract I just add it all in the beginning to simplify it. But if you want to do the late addition, put your DME in first. About 3 lbs of it for a 5 gal batch. And then put LME as the late addition rather than vis versa.

 

[ArcLight]

>.Not entirely correct. You have to have some extract in the boil in order to correctly isomerize your hops.

Is this true? I thought this was disproven, and that hops utilization was based on time of boil and volume of water - meaning utilization is higher in a 5 gallon boil than a 2.5 gallon boil.


I typically add my half my LME half way thriugh, and the rest in the last 10-15 minutes.


Next LME I brew I will try adding it all at flame out, just make sure I mix it well.

With DME I will mix it in during the boil.

 

[cincybrewer]

I brewed two batches this past week. For the first one I added 1 lb DME at the beginning of the boil and 6 lbs LME w/ 15 minutes remaining. For the second I added 1 lb DME at beginning and 6 lbs LME at flameout. After various discussions in other threads about this I just decided to wing it and hope for the best. The first beer I just kept the hop additions the same as called for but for the second I reduced the 60 minute and 45 minute additions by 25%....we'll see how it turns out.

 

[Bierenliefhebber]

About using lower-than-boiling temperatures: This should work, but it'll take longer. The rate of isomerization, as with any chemical reaction, will roughly double for each 10 deg Celsius that you raise the temperature. So, if you lower the "boil" temperature to 195 deg Fahrenheit, you'll need to double the time to get the same degree of isomerization; 175, and you'll need to quadruple the time, etc. Of course, other factors, such as extraction rates, are in play here, too, so the results won't be exactly equivalent. It also makes me wonder if one could achieve a "quick boil" by carrying out the process inside of a large pressure cooker.