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not sure how I missed this back in spring, that is really slick! Would also love some details if your willing at some point....
Thank you!

Sure. I'll try to draw it out. Basically the leds have a 12+DC and R-G-B terminals. The relay basically flip flops the DC negative between the R-B terminals. When the pressure switch energizes the SPDT relay, it makes the LED action happen. Make sense?
 
Thank you!

Sure. I'll try to draw it out. Basically the leds have a 12+DC and R-G-B terminals. The relay basically flip flops the DC negative between the R-B terminals. When the pressure switch energizes the SPDT relay, it makes the LED action happen. Make sense?
Absolutely, thanks! I’ve got some strip lights around, looks like I have some experimenting to do!
 
Absolutely, thanks! I’ve got some strip lights around, looks like I have some experimenting to do!
Def. Good luck! FYI The pressure switch has a Common, Normally Open, and Normally closed. The pump is connected to the normally closed side on the positive rail, same goes for the SPDT relay that does the LED flipping.

EDIT

The pump is running when the line pressure is less than 15psi, and the SPDT relay is energized. Once the pressure reaches 15psi, the pressure switch opens the circuit deenergizing the pump and SPDT.

Red LED is connected to NC terminal
Blue LED is connected to NO terminal


Hope this makes sense
 
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Wouldn’t that be to the NO? Closing only when pressure switch is depressed?

It had never occurred to me to manipulate RGB lights like that. I can think of multiple applications. Nice work!

Nope, the NC. You want the pump to shut off when the pressure switch is pressurized. Seals on the glass rinser cannot handle more than 15psi. The pump OEM shuts off at 35PSI but thats too much.

Oh yes, many applications. I did the same thing with my bilge fan and light setup, except instead of a pressure switch, i used a magnetic reed switch.
 
Nope, the NC. You want the pump to shut off when the pressure switch is pressurized. Seals on the glass rinser cannot handle more than 15psi. The pump OEM shuts off at 35PSI but thats too much.


I see now. I was confusing your pressure switch for the plunger of the rinser. Makes sense now.
 
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Lol, actually thinking about using that for the signage on my 2 door True fridge in the garage. Either change color as you did, or simply turn lights on when I walk in. I’ll use this for a little trial and error, and work through my learning curve. The end mission will be to source an adjustable inductive proximity sensor for my kegerator. I have RGBW lights on it that I’d like to change from “a“ color to white while standing in front and change back when you walk away. I use mine camping and such outdoors, and don’t like white lights on all the time, but it's nice for seeing what your doing while pouring.
 
Hey everyone!!

Its been a long time since updating my build thread. I actually did this video update a year ago talking about the various things I've run into and what I would change etc.

The bilge fan failed after a bit over two years. It is a brush motor and yup the brushes failed. Still it is the best fan for the given application.

When finances allow I will be adding a 3rd and final 20cu/ft pure nitro tank for cold brew coffees along with a primary and secondary regulator for dual pressures. Currently the 5lb co2 and 20cu/ft beergas (75n2/25co2) has been amazing for stouts.

Another extra feature for the future is installing a TV over the back wall of the keezer and running taplist.io on it so others can see what is available on tap.

I really love this setup. Only thing that is a PITA is line cleaning. What I do now is with a set of 4 couplers I can clean 4 lines at once with my 12vdc diaphragm pump. Makes for a much quicker process.

Any questions let me know!


 
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