New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Dgallo]

Do you remove your WP hops when transferring the wort to the fermenter? Or do you let the WP hops into the fermenter?

I guess I am supposed to remove them, but then WP hopping with loose pellets it is hard to separate them completely from the wort before the transfer.

You should transfer as little of the hop material and trub to the fv as possible. This will greatly improve head retention and can help minimize any hopburn from the hotside additions. Also will help in stable haze

 

[nebulabrewing]

You should transfer as little of the hop material and trub to the fv as possible. This will greatly improve head retention and can help minimize any hopburn from the hotside additions. Also will help in stable haze

^ Good info as well.

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

I had one drop clear a couple months ago that had great haze to it for the first 3 weeks .. after reviewing my process I had to chalk it up to transferring to much trub, it wasn't oxidation and the beer was still good but no haze and poor head retention.

 

[BeerFst]

Do you remove your WP hops when transferring the wort to the fermenter? Or do you let the WP hops into the fermenter?

I guess I am supposed to remove them, but then WP hopping with loose pellets it is hard to separate them completely from the wort before the transfer.

I just let it settle out but i dont go to any lengths to remove them. Usually I'll get some when i first open the ball valve, then towards the end depending on how much trub i end up with ill probably allow some into then. the majority definitely stay in the kettle. Though I am doing that less to keep the hops out as i am worried about extra trub in the fermenter. I ferment in corny's so extra trub just means less beer in the end.

on the use of GP, I was always under the impression it wasnt ideal for NEIPA cause it (and most UK malts) had lower protein content than 2 row and pilsner (including continental). Now we add plenty of high protein malts so the smaller contribution from the base malt is probably near irrelevant. I tend to stick to 2row for simplicity sake

 

[wepeeler]

You should transfer as little of the hop material and trub to the fv as possible. This will greatly improve head retention and can help minimize any hopburn from the hotside additions. Also will help in stable haze

I dump almost everything into the fermentor. Never had issues with haze or head retention. Hop burn has subsided after soft crashing yeast before DHing...

 

[Dgallo]

I dump almost everything into the fermentor. Never had issues with haze or head retention. Hop burn has subsided after soft crashing yeast before DHing...

When was the last time you tried to leave it all out and compared

 

[R.A.I.D]

@Dgallo how was your raw neipa received in the club?

 

[wepeeler]

When was the last time you tried to leave it all out and compared

Touché

 

[Dgallo]

@Dgallo how was your raw neipa received in the club?

No one knew that there was anything different about that beer vs the typical NEIPA I make. When I did reveal it wasn’t boiled just pasteurized, they were surprised

 

[Dgallo]

Touché

Lol That was a genuine question though. Give it a shot sometime but remember to plan for atleast an extra 1/2 to 3/4 gallon of volume. I think you’ll be able to immediately notice the difference in the foam itself and how much tighter/lighter the head is.

 

[wepeeler]

Lol That was a genuine question though. Give it a shot sometime but remember to plan for atleast an extra 1/2 to 3/4 gallon of volume. I think you’ll be able to immediately notice the difference in the foam itself and how much tighter/lighter the head is.

I don't use the trub stopper in my kettle. I usually just pick up the kettle and dump most everything in. I'll have to try it again.

 

[Rob2010SS]

Lol That was a genuine question though. Give it a shot sometime but remember to plan for atleast an extra 1/2 to 3/4 gallon of volume. I think you’ll be able to immediately notice the difference in the foam itself and how much tighter/lighter the head is.

How do you separate it out in your system? Do you have a hop stopper in the bottom of your kettle?

I have a big hop spider. Thinking I could use that...

 

[wepeeler]

How do you separate it out in your system? Do you have a hop stopper in the bottom of your kettle?

I have a big hop spider. Thinking I could use that...

I hate my hop spider. It clogs with the hot break. Forget about anything more than an ounce or 2 of hops. Clogs if you look at it funny...

 

[Rob2010SS]

I hate my hop spider. It clogs with the hot break. Forget about anything more than an ounce or 2 of hops. Clogs if you look at it funny...

I've actually had fairly good luck with it. One of our hazies, we used it for the WP additions and it handled it quite well. I stopped using it because I wasn't sure if I was getting the full potential out of those hops being contained in that thing.

 

[wepeeler]

I've actually had fairly good luck with it. One of our hazies, we used it for the WP additions and it handled it quite well. I stopped using it because I wasn't sure if I was getting the full potential out of those hops being contained in that thing.

This is what I have. It sucks.

I was also worried about extraction, so it was an easy decision to stop using it. Glad you had good luck.

 

[Rob2010SS]

This is what I have. It sucks.

I was also worried about extraction, so it was an easy decision to stop using it. Glad you had good luck.

What do you use? Extraction is still a concern for me with using it...

 

[wepeeler]

What do you use? Extraction is still a concern for me with using it...

All my hops go into the kettle raw. My SSBrewtech kettle has a trub dam, but I don't use that anymore either. I typically just dump everything into the fermentor, except for the last 1/4 gallon or so.

 

[aaronm13]

Have to say, the false bottom/filter design on the Grainfather G40 is an incredible piece of engineering and love being able to throw hops in loose now. I've gone with around 7-8oz hot side hops and so far with no issues at all. Will be doing a Pliny clone next with a lot of hot side hops so that will really put it to the test. Hated using a spider but the G30 didn't like hops at all.

 

[tracer bullet]

This is what I have. It sucks.

Had one like it as well. Way too fine. I went to a 400 micron and that helped tremendously. It doesn't block everything but it takes care of a huge percentage of it and I'll take what I can get.

I've found for a reasonably trub-free transfer I just give it time. After cooldown and all else, I leave the wort and start working on cleaning things and putting them away. Then probably grab lunch (I'm a morning brewer). After an hour, especially say two hours, it's super settled and what I get off the top doesn't settle much more in the fermenter.

 

[beervoid]

I hate my hop spider. It clogs with the hot break. Forget about anything more than an ounce or 2 of hops. Clogs if you look at it funny...

I have the same experience, what has helped a bit for me is scooping the hotbreak out that floating on the top

 

[Dgallo]

How do you separate it out in your system? Do you have a hop stopper in the bottom of your kettle?

I have a big hop spider. Thinking I could use that...

With a good hot/cold break and whirlpool as it cools, pretty much everything cones inside of the immersion wort chiller and I rack off of the side. Probably leave about .50-.75 gallons behind and the wort it pretty clear.

 

[Jimmy_Hops]

I like to transfer as little trub as possible into my fermzilla, then I throw it in the fermentation fridge for like an hour and then remove the remaining trub that collected in the collection jar at the bottom. That usually takes care of most of it. Then I just sanitize the jar, put in the yeast, and put it back on and open it up and let her rip. I agree that hop spiders suck but I still use one as my anvil pump gets clogged so easily.

 

[murphyslaw]

Have to say, the false bottom/filter design on the Grainfather G40 is an incredible piece of engineering and love being able to throw hops in loose now. I've gone with around 7-8oz hot side hops and so far with no issues at all. Will be doing a Pliny clone next with a lot of hot side hops so that will really put it to the test. Hated using a spider but the G30 didn't like hops at all.

I’ve got an older Grainfather connect and this really has me thinking about upgrading to the g40

 

[aaronm13]

I’ve got an older Grainfather connect and this really has me thinking about upgrading to the g40

It really is a an excellent upgrade I have to say. I was constantly maxing out my G30 and having to make adjustments in grain bills to keep under the max volume so loving the extra capacity. As I said the filter is second to none. The new controller PID is so stable too. Was getting lots of fluctuations in temperature with the old controller. Still working out a few kinks in my process but overall really happy with it.

 

[murphyslaw]

It really is a an excellent upgrade I have to say. I was constantly maxing out my G30 and having to make adjustments in grain bills to keep under the max volume so loving the extra capacity. As I said the filter is second to none. The new controller PID is so stable too. Was getting lots of fluctuations in temperature with the old controller. Still working out a few kinks in my process but overall really happy with it.

better hop filtering would solve my biggest complaint. At that point my only hesitation really is that I’ve become lodo-curious and it’s difficult to achieve on an all in one. But the ease of use is probably worth that compromise

 

[aaronm13]

better hop filtering would solve my biggest complaint. At that point my only hesitation really is that I’ve become lodo-curious and it’s difficult to achieve on an all in one. But the ease of use is probably worth that compromise

There's trade off with every system unfortunately. None are perfect but the G40 ticks a lot of boxes for me.

 

[Fergal]

I noticed a huge difference with my hop spider getting blocked depending on my additions. Any early additions and it just gets clogged. For all late addition hazys it was fine as it was only in the boil for a short period. I don't use it anymore though, my brewzilla does a pretty decent job. Gets all the hops and whatever cold break gets into the fermenter I leave for the yeast. Apparently the newer version filters out way more break though.

 

[beervoid]

I noticed a huge difference with my hop spider getting blocked depending on my additions. Any early additions and it just gets clogged. For all late addition hazys it was fine as it was only in the boil for a short period. I don't use it anymore though, my brewzilla does a pretty decent job. Gets all the hops and whatever cold break gets into the fermenter I leave for the yeast. Apparently the newer version filters out way more break though.

You use the bottom plate to filter the hops?

 

[popquizkid]

There's trade off with every system unfortunately. None are perfect but the G40 ticks a lot of boxes for me.

Just curious -- what kind of efficiency are you getting with the g40? Have my eye on it and it looks like it might hit the sweet spot for what I am looking for in an electric brewing system.

 

[Jimmy_Hops]

So the pictured beer is my newest NEIPA which I mentioned earlier. It was one of my best batches as of 2 days ago, and even after testing it twice before kegging, it has developed diacetyl as of yesterday. Have any of you ever had success with Krausening? Does it effect aroma and flavor significantly? I mean losing some aroma and flavor is better than having a beer with diacetyl but I’m just curious if I should just consider it a loss. Man I’m annoyed! Also, have any of you used ALDC for preventing diacetyl creation yet? I know professional breweries have been using it and that More Beer now sells it at the home brewer scale. I’ll definitely be picking some up before brewing another NEIPA.

 

[BeerFst]

View attachment 764314
So the pictured beer is my newest NEIPA which I mentioned earlier. It was one of my best batches as of 2 days ago, and even after testing it twice before kegging, it has developed diacetyl as of yesterday. Have any of you ever had success with Krausening? Does it effect aroma and flavor significantly? I mean losing some aroma and flavor is better than having a beer with diacetyl but I’m just curious if I should just consider it a loss. Man I’m annoyed! Also, have any of you used ALDC for preventing diacetyl creation yet? I know professional breweries have been using it and that More Beer now sells it at the home brewer scale. I’ll definitely be picking some up before brewing another NEIPA.

I had to look back at notes as it has been a while, oct 2020 apparently. I did a small beer (1.5%ABV ish) with S04 and I definitely rushed it cause it was such a low ABV. I did pitch an entire yeast packet, but assumed cause it only needed to ferment 12 points or so, I could rush. It developed this really odd aroma that i described as "chobani yogurt" and I hate chobani. It wasn't so much a buttered popcorn aroma, but I decided it was diaetyl for some reason. I ended up adding some DME and let it ferment again. Notes say it got better.

This beer did have a 4oz dry hop (~1oz/gal) but i don't recall what it did to the hop aroma, if anything cause the chobani was so overwhelming. In the end i noted the beer tasted like "trix cereal milk" and had a little vanilla to it. No idea where that came from as the hops were NHZ107 and i dont think they should have vanilla notes to them.

 

[aaronm13]

Just curious -- what kind of efficiency are you getting with the g40? Have my eye on it and it looks like it might hit the sweet spot for what I am looking for in an electric brewing system.

At the moment it's around 72% for a hazy dipa brewhouse but I still haven't got the system fully dialed in yet. The losses through the boil are proving difficult to get. The default is 3.5L/h on the 220/230V system but I'm getting closer to 5L/h. Lost 11L on a boil for a barleywine over the weekend. My efficiency was only in the 60s on that.

 

[Jimmy_Hops]

I had to look back at notes as it has been a while, oct 2020 apparently. I did a small beer (1.5%ABV ish) with S04 and I definitely rushed it cause it was such a low ABV. I did pitch an entire yeast packet, but assumed cause it only needed to ferment 12 points or so, I could rush. It developed this really odd aroma that i described as "chobani yogurt" and I hate chobani. It wasn't so much a buttered popcorn aroma, but I decided it was diaetyl for some reason. I ended up adding some DME and let it ferment again. Notes say it got better.

This beer did have a 4oz dry hop (~1oz/gal) but i don't recall what it did to the hop aroma, if anything cause the chobani was so overwhelming. In the end i noted the beer tasted like "trix cereal milk" and had a little vanilla to it. No idea where that came from as the hops were NHZ107 and i dont think they should have vanilla notes to them.

Thanks for the info. This is definitely diacetyl. I’ve had it happen a couple of times in the past so I started doing diacetyl tests and thought this one was good, but it has that very distinct butterscotch aroma (the flavor hasn’t been too badly effected yet) that I can’t stand. Good to know that Krausening can work though. I’ll have to do some research on how to do it

 

[Dgallo]

View attachment 764314
So the pictured beer is my newest NEIPA which I mentioned earlier. It was one of my best batches as of 2 days ago, and even after testing it twice before kegging, it has developed diacetyl as of yesterday. Have any of you ever had success with Krausening? Does it effect aroma and flavor significantly? I mean losing some aroma and flavor is better than having a beer with diacetyl but I’m just curious if I should just consider it a loss. Man I’m annoyed! Also, have any of you used ALDC for preventing diacetyl creation yet? I know professional breweries have been using it and that More Beer now sells it at the home brewer scale. I’ll definitely be picking some up before brewing another NEIPA.

Have you done any forced diacetyl test? That’s the best way to know for sure if any VDK is in your beer before packaging

 

[Jimmy_Hops]

Have you done any forced diacetyl test? That’s the best way to know for sure if any VDK is in your beer before packaging

Yes, I did two on this batch as the first test failed. And I brought the beer down to 50F for 24 hours after passing the test and before dry hopping at 55. Not sure how this happened unless I was just dead wrong on the second test.

 

[VikeMan]

Yes, I did two on this batch as the first test failed. And I brought the beer down to 50F for 24 hours after passing the test and before dry hopping at 55. Not sure how this happened unless I was just dead wrong on the second test.

Dry hopping can also lead to more (new) diacetyl, because of hop creep.

 

[Jimmy_Hops]

Dry hopping can also lead to more diacetyl.

I know it can when dry hopping at fermentation temps, but I dropped out the yeast and did a soft crash before dry hopping at 55. I’ve done the same on my last two batches and didn’t have this issue. Even after passing a forced test.

 

[VikeMan]

I know it can when dry hopping at fermentation temps, but I dropped out the yeast and did a soft crash before dry hopping at 55. I’ve done the same on my last two batches and didn’t have this issue. Even after passing a forced test.

You didn't have this (hop creep driven diacetyl) issue before, but the fact that this beer passed a forced diacetyl test and later had diacetyl is evidence that you did this time. So, it's a botched test, or hop creep, or an unwanted microbe, like Lacto or Pedio.

Nothing short of filtration (or pasteurization) gets rid of all the yeast. And lots of yeast strains (maybe most) are quite happy to work at 55F, though more slowly.

Keep in mind that when you pass a forced diacetyl test, that doesn’t mean that there is no diacetyl (or precursor). It means that the amount is below your taste threshold. You can be right on the edge of perceptible, so that any additional diacetyl becomes noticeable.

 

[NJGeorge]

Hey guys! It’s been a while since I brewed; almost a year. Here is my recent batch hoppy pale ale 5.8% simple 50/50 grist of two row and pale wheat. Also threw in a little bit of flaked oats I had left over maybe a half pound. Almost 5 gallons in the keg. Added some talus and cascade in the boil around 15min and did a whirlpool with cascade, Amarillo and centennial. Fermented with one pack of s04 at 66 then raised to 68 for a day. Crashed to 50 for a day and dumped yeast from spike conical. Dry hopped at 58 with 8oz motueka and 2 oz riwaka for roughly 48 hours rousing from the bottom with c02 twice a day. Crashed to around 42 for a day and dumped all the hops. Then kegged. This pic is 16 days from grain to glass and it’s already good. Not as much dry hop pop as I wanted but that might get better in a few days. Could use a little more malt character but this is very crushable. I did kinda rush this brew a little. Oh well

 

[NJGeorge]

What dry hop temp and duration have you guys settled on? Is anyone rousing hops in a conical? Also, how much dry hops (oz) in a roughly 7 gallon batch in the fermenter are you using?