New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I’m not sure to be honest. I’ve never even looked into a mail forwarding service but I guess that’s something I could do. Thanks for the suggestion.
Good luck with it. The Irish post service has a really good one set up for the US, just expensive. Its an extra $20 to ship the hops from Jersey to Ireland. Then customs will have to get their cut too.
 
Ah sorry about that. I think both companies have tie ins with Haas so they always have those newer hop products.

New regulations came into effect within the EU last July about customs and vat so everything is more expensive now importing and exporting. Also Brexit in the UK has had a massive difference.

Is there any mail forwarding services you could use? This is how I order my hops from Yakima as they don't ship to Europe anymore. My latest Yakima arrived in Jersey today actually so should have them here in a week or so.
YVH is also associated with Haas. They sell all those products in the larger, brewery formats, but nothing in the homebrew size. They've said they are working on it, but it's been months to a year at this point.
 
New Thiol freeing yeast is available from Escarpment Labs. They are out of Canada and shipping to US is flat rated at $16 if IRC, so you might want to plan to order some of their other offering to make it effective. They are very well know for wild/Brett offering and kviek isolates/blends.
25FA0456-6B8A-422B-A345-C56883853AD0.png
 
Haven't seen too much Cosmic Punch discussion in a while, but have a dry hop question.

Are most of you doing an early dry hop for biotransformation + a later dry hop with this yeast or should I just follow the most common method on here of completing fermentation then soft crashing before one big dry hop? I'm about 24 hours into fermentation and don't know if this yeast has any magical biotrans abilities or if I would maximize this beer by doing a large dry hop at the end.
 
A fellow member here contacted me the other day about possibly doing the group bye for nectaron that I brought up. He’s a long time lurker and doesn’t really post. Anyway, he just messaged me and said Yakima valley hops currently has 2 ounce bags of Nectaron available. I just snagged 2 pounds for myself. I have no idea how long it will last, but figured I’d share it here.

https://yakimavalleyhops.com/products/nectaron-hop-pellets?_pos=1&_psq=Nect&_ss=e&_v=1.0
 
Haven't seen too much Cosmic Punch discussion in a while, but have a dry hop question.

Are most of you doing an early dry hop for biotransformation + a later dry hop with this yeast or should I just follow the most common method on here of completing fermentation then soft crashing before one big dry hop? I'm about 24 hours into fermentation and don't know if this yeast has any magical biotrans abilities or if I would maximize this beer by doing a large dry hop at the end.
I can't speak for most of us, but I have been only dry hopping (oxygen free) after a cold crash and found that to be enough to get the great aroma. Any oxygen sneaking in at any point will reduce the aroma in a few days in my experience. My last batch I knew I had gotten some some oxygen in due to me being out of CO2 and some hop clogging, but it was still drinkable.
 
Any oxygen sneaking in at any point will reduce the aroma in a few days in my experience.

Same here, for practically any beer. Try as a might, I can keep something better for far longer than in the past, but that taste from the first couple days never sticks around. Although to be fair some of it could be things like yeast settling out and other stuff not actually oxygen related. I don't make my own NEIPA's but this applies to any IPA of any sort, almost any beer at all really.

But - that's probably a whole different topic.
 
I can't speak for most of us, but I have been only dry hopping (oxygen free) after a cold crash and found that to be enough to get the great aroma. Any oxygen sneaking in at any point will reduce the aroma in a few days in my experience. My last batch I knew I had gotten some some oxygen in due to me being out of CO2 and some hop clogging, but it was still drinkable.
How do you execute an oxygen free dry hop post fermentation? The best I can come up with is opening the keg while running gas from a tank in the hopes that only a little O2 gets in.
 
How do you execute an oxygen free dry hop post fermentation? The best I can come up with is opening the keg while running gas from a tank in the hopes that only a little O2 gets in.
I have a Spike Flex+ now. I add hops to a 1.5" TC spool that I add hops to and the purge of oxygen (8 or 9 times) before dropping into the wort. With this setup I have 2 or 3 drops.
 

Attachments

  • dryhopper.jpg
    dryhopper.jpg
    46.8 KB · Views: 21
Last edited:
How do you execute an oxygen free dry hop post fermentation? The best I can come up with is opening the keg while running gas from a tank in the hopes that only a little O2 gets in.
You can pre-load a dry hop keg. Put your dry hop charge in the keg, close it up, and then run the fermentation Co2 through it. Do a closed transfer onto the dry hops, then once you are done with your dry hopping process jump it to a purged serving keg. Simple.
 
My last batch I knew I had gotten some some oxygen in due to me being out of CO2 and some hop clogging, but it was still drinkable.
Okay, I confess. My small CO2 ran out and I didn't feel like getting the big tank re-directed to transfer - alcohol may have been involved. So I pressurized my transfer when it slowed down to almost nothing, by mouth. Alcohol may have been involved and my first beer with the Flex+. Anyway I was initially disappointed that after 2 days the color and aroma had dropped. But then it stabilized, and often it was comparable in both aroma and color with decent canned NEIPAs I had purchased, but not the excellent that we're all going for.
 
A fellow member here contacted me the other day about possibly doing the group bye for nectaron that I brought up. He’s a long time lurker and doesn’t really post. Anyway, he just messaged me and said Yakima valley hops currently has 2 ounce bags of Nectaron available. I just snagged 2 pounds for myself. I have no idea how long it will last, but figured I’d share it here.

https://yakimavalleyhops.com/products/nectaron-hop-pellets?_pos=1&_psq=Nect&_ss=e&_v=1.0
Were 2021 available when you bought the 2oz bags or was it 2020?
 
I have a Spike Flex+ now. I add hops to a 1.5" TC spool that I add hops to and the purge of oxygen (8 or 9 times) before dropping into the wort. With this setup I have 2 or 3 drops.

That's really cool.

This is what I do, never had an issue with oxidation.

Yeah, its a pretty good method. I've been doing a lot of mental gymnastics over whether I can eliminate even that minimal o2 exposure.

You can pre-load a dry hop keg. Put your dry hop charge in the keg, close it up, and then run the fermentation Co2 through it. Do a closed transfer onto the dry hops, then once you are done with your dry hopping process jump it to a purged serving keg. Simple.

So you're using 3 vessels? Fermentation vessel, dry hop keg, serving keg? Purging all 3 with fermentation co2?


I was talking about this elsewhere but I've sort of gotten some analysis paralysis. If I could have my druthers, I would:

1. Dry hop without introducing o2.
2. Dry hop after fermentation ends.
3. Dry hop for only 2 days.
4. Dry hop loose.
5. Leave all debris in the fermenter
6. Spund.

But a lot of these goals conflict with one another. So as far as I can tell, the best 3 options are:

a) dry hop and spund with 10 or so points left, then cold crash to drop out yeast etc and transfer to fermentation purged serving keg with a floating dip tube. But this conflicts with 2 and probably 3.

b)Keg hop, either combined with spunding or with the hops placed prior to purge with fermentation gas. But this conflicts with 3 and 5.

c) what I understand to be @HopsAreGood 's 3 vessel system. I think this would only conflict with 6, and given the o2 free nature, 6 is less important. I'm a bit leery of 2 transfers being the best way to eliminate o2, but the logic is there.

So its everything has a trade off and we have to figure out how to balance those issues. Every time I decide on a method I change my mind shortly after, lol.
 
Only 2020. Which I thought was odd but bought anyway.
they must of been able to source it from someone or found it t in a cooler lol. Either way, as long as it was stored well , 2020 was the crop year that turned people on to nectron, so it should be solid
 
Yeah, its a pretty good method. I've been doing a lot of mental gymnastics over whether I can eliminate even that minimal o2 exposure.

Same here. My current processes, which seems to provide good results, is to pull off the stopper on my Fermonster, quickly pour the hops in using a small funnel, then seal it up. I have tried sticking a hose from my CO2 tank to flush the headspace, but I am not sure if that does more harm than good. I have tried adding in half a crushed Campden Tablet with the dry hops (and I recently picked up some Ascorbic Acid), but I cannot say if that helps with any potential oxidation.

I have tried the "dry hops with magnets" approach, and I am not sold. It seems like any approach to adding hops into the fermenter or a keg requires either some potential of oxygen or putting the hops into an oxygen rich environment. I am not convinced I need to invest the $ into a fancy hop dropper, and I am not convinced it would even make an improvement.

Honestly your "opening the keg while running gas from a tank" is probably pretty good. I have thought about adding a gas post to my Fermonster, so I could quickly dump in the hops while having a flow of CO2.
 
I'm no biologist but it seems to me dry hoping and spunding at the same time is the most o2 safe method. But the stuff I've read--mainly Janish--suggests that post-fermentation dry hopping after a soft craah is better. And as far as I know, those two methods mutually exclusive.
 
I do the magnet thing, hops are suspended from the top of the lid until it's time to drop them. I drop them after fermentation and let them sit for 3 days. I should mention this is a pale ale but I think the gist of keeping hop flavor is the same. I do closed transfers to water purged kegs and feel I'm good at it.

My hop flavors drop quite a bit for a couple days then settle out. They are still quite good after those few days, identifiable, and stick around for a month or more until the keg is gone. Unlike in the past before I did these things and the beer would become fizzy bitter yellow water. So that stability I have right now might mean I'm doing a great job. My beer's just as good or better than anything bottled with similar hops (i.e. Bells or Sierra Nevada).

But given the decline over the first few days, it still makes me wonder if I could hold onto that flavor, longer, the punch-you-in-the-face part of it. Or maybe it's all but impossible, I know I have never tasted it in a can, bottle, or even on tap (at a restaurant that is, haven't been to a brewery in quite a while, might be different there). I don't want to derail the thread here but - if anyone can keep hop flavors it's the NEIPA experts and perhaps others here can pick up a tip as well.
 
I'm no biologist but it seems to me dry hoping and spunding at the same time is the most o2 safe method. But the stuff I've read--mainly Janish--suggests that post-fermentation dry hopping after a soft craah is better. And as far as I know, those two methods mutually exclusive.

Going to leave this data from YCH lab analysis here. This is from one of the Dry Hopping webinars. Webinars

1645108049378.png


However! Couple of buddies and I are brewing 15 gallons to be split 3 ways and dry hopped with the same amounts, with the same yeast, but at 3 different time periods.
#1. Mid-ferm and post-ferm
#2. Post-ferm at 70F
#3. Post-ferm at 53F

Will report back in a month or two after we've had our club do a sensory.
 
Going to leave this data from YCH lab analysis here. This is from one of the Dry Hopping webinars. Webinars

View attachment 759866

However! Couple of buddies and I are brewing 15 gallons to be split 3 ways and dry hopped with the same amounts, with the same yeast, but at 3 different time periods.
#1. Mid-ferm and post-ferm
#2. Post-ferm at 70F
#3. Post-ferm at 53F

Will report back in a month or two after we've had our club do a sensory.

Very interesting, thanks for sharing this. I had no idea they put out all this info.
 
Last edited:
I've been doing all my dryhopping post fermentation, soft crash to 48f then dryhop at 56f. This time I split my dryhop into 2 separate additions 36 hours apart instead of one big dryhop. I will be cold crashing tomorrow and kegging on sunday, this round I used citra, galaxy, strata. 2,2,1 excited to see how it turns out.
 
A fellow member here contacted me the other day about possibly doing the group bye for nectaron that I brought up. He’s a long time lurker and doesn’t really post. Anyway, he just messaged me and said Yakima valley hops currently has 2 ounce bags of Nectaron available. I just snagged 2 pounds for myself. I have no idea how long it will last, but figured I’d share it here.

https://yakimavalleyhops.com/products/nectaron-hop-pellets?_pos=1&_psq=Nect&_ss=e&_v=1.0
You were quick off the mark there. Gone already. Glad you got some sourced in the end.
 
That's really cool.



Yeah, its a pretty good method. I've been doing a lot of mental gymnastics over whether I can eliminate even that minimal o2 exposure.



So you're using 3 vessels? Fermentation vessel, dry hop keg, serving keg? Purging all 3 with fermentation co2?


I was talking about this elsewhere but I've sort of gotten some analysis paralysis. If I could have my druthers, I would:

1. Dry hop without introducing o2.
2. Dry hop after fermentation ends.
3. Dry hop for only 2 days.
4. Dry hop loose.
5. Leave all debris in the fermenter
6. Spund.

But a lot of these goals conflict with one another. So as far as I can tell, the best 3 options are:

a) dry hop and spund with 10 or so points left, then cold crash to drop out yeast etc and transfer to fermentation purged serving keg with a floating dip tube. But this conflicts with 2 and probably 3.

b)Keg hop, either combined with spunding or with the hops placed prior to purge with fermentation gas. But this conflicts with 3 and 5.

c) what I understand to be @HopsAreGood 's 3 vessel system. I think this would only conflict with 6, and given the o2 free nature, 6 is less important. I'm a bit leery of 2 transfers being the best way to eliminate o2, but the logic is there.

So its everything has a trade off and we have to figure out how to balance those issues. Every time I decide on a method I change my mind shortly after, lol.
I've been doing Hops are Good method now for a while and I think it's an excellent process, probably the most O2 free environment I can hope for on a homebrew scale. I do have a slight concern that some aroma is been blown off from the fermentation as the smell in my fridge is incredible but maybe this is the trade off I need to just accept. I have toyed with just purging the empty keg during fermentation then when ready to dry hop I'd hook up the gas and run it while I open the keg to throw the hops in. I'll maybe try this on my next brew to see if I notice a difference.
 
I figured I would clutter up this thread with another...Thanks!...and "I brewed an NEIPA" post. :)

I think I have brewed 4 batches that I would label as NEIPAs. When I brewed the first one I did not understand the style so I incorporated too much of my American IPA experience. The second one was about 2 years ago and was quite nice. It was heavily influenced by Braufessor's recipe with lots of Citra and Mosaic. I brewed my third batch last month (picture at the end), and I brewed another one today.

I have been making my way through this thread. I am around early 2021 now. There are good ideas that I want to play around, but for today's batch I wanted to build on my prior batch, and fix some process errors. That last batch was 100% Centennial in the whirlpool (going heavy on the "survivables" concept) and Azacca and El Dorado in the dry hop. I had planned to soft crash then dry hop for 2 days, but for some reason I set my temp controller to 32F just after I added the dry hops and it did not occur to me until the next morning. I went ahead and just left the hops in for 4 days at 32F. Without a way to rouse the hops, I don't think I got the extraction I wanted. I also had planned to whirlpool at 180F, but the temp dropped to 172F before I got the hops in.

The last batch was good enough that I somehow drank it all in 16 days (just a 2.5 gal batch). It was just a little too sweet and the Azacca + El Dorado combo had too much of an overripe fruit vibe. I did not want to completely change the hops this time, so I just swapped in some Citra both in the Whirlpool and Dry Hops. Overall, I think the Centennial in the whirlpool worked well. I tweaked the grain bill to swap 1/4 lb of Honey Malt for 1/2 lb of Munich (also reduced the 2-Row by 1/4 lb).

Today's Recipe
• Batch Size: 2.60 gal
• OG: 1.068 SG
• SRM: 4.3
• IBU: 31.6
• Mash: 60 min @ 152F
• pH: 5.4
• Boil: 30 min

Grain Bill
• 69.3% - 4.75 lb - Rahr 2-Row
• 11.7% - 0.80 lb - Flaked Oats
• 11.7% - 0.80 lb - White Wheat Malt
• 7.3% - 0.50 lb - Munich Malt (6 SRM)

Hops Steep/Whirlpool 20 @ 180F
• 1.5 oz - Centennial
• 1.5 oz - Citra

Dry Hops
• 1 oz - Azacca
• 1 oz - El Dorado
• 1 oz - Citra

Yeast
• 1 pkg Lallemand Verdant

Water Profile
• Ca: 100 ppm
• Mg: 7 ppm
• Na: 25 ppm
• SO4: 67 ppm
• Cl: 137 ppm

Misc
• 1/2 Campden Tablet (Mash)
• 1.5 g Ascorbic Acid (Mash)
• 1 g Irish Moss (Boil 10.0 mins)

Pic of my prior batch (probably at around day 10 in the keg).

IMG_3745.JPG
 
I personally make all my adjustments in the mash/sparge. but its funny you mentioned that because our home-brew club is now meeting at The Warbler Brewery in Delmar, NY and we just discussed this exact topic with the Brewer/owner. we also discussed pre-dryhop ph adjustments. He believes you can be more consistent making adjustments in BK. So I think I am going to try to add them to the bk next brew. when it comes to ph, he said he will adjust to 4.2-4.3 pre-dryhopping if needed (he said targeting 5.1/5.2 at start of boil will get him there) because he wants to land right at 4.6 going into packaging. which I found interesting .

About this recent post...does adding Calcium salts into the boil impact the pH? I know it will lower the pH of the mash.

Over the past year or so I have started to add more Calcium to my American IPAs and Pale Ales because I feel like it makes a little better beer (though I am not sure if that is the boost in Calcium or the boost in Chloride, or just in my head) and it lowers the amount of acid I need to add to the mash to hit my target mash pH. Moving the salts to the boil kettle would mean I would need to add more acid to the mash, so I am not sure how that would impact the downstream beer pH. Or would I shoot for a higher mash pH (say 5.5 or 5.6)?
 
I figured I would clutter up this thread with another...Thanks!...and "I brewed an NEIPA" post. :)

I think I have brewed 4 batches that I would label as NEIPAs. When I brewed the first one I did not understand the style so I incorporated too much of my American IPA experience. The second one was about 2 years ago and was quite nice. It was heavily influenced by Braufessor's recipe with lots of Citra and Mosaic. I brewed my third batch last month (picture at the end), and I brewed another one today.

I have been making my way through this thread. I am around early 2021 now. There are good ideas that I want to play around, but for today's batch I wanted to build on my prior batch, and fix some process errors. That last batch was 100% Centennial in the whirlpool (going heavy on the "survivables" concept) and Azacca and El Dorado in the dry hop. I had planned to soft crash then dry hop for 2 days, but for some reason I set my temp controller to 32F just after I added the dry hops and it did not occur to me until the next morning. I went ahead and just left the hops in for 4 days at 32F. Without a way to rouse the hops, I don't think I got the extraction I wanted. I also had planned to whirlpool at 180F, but the temp dropped to 172F before I got the hops in.

The last batch was good enough that I somehow drank it all in 16 days (just a 2.5 gal batch). It was just a little too sweet and the Azacca + El Dorado combo had too much of an overripe fruit vibe. I did not want to completely change the hops this time, so I just swapped in some Citra both in the Whirlpool and Dry Hops. Overall, I think the Centennial in the whirlpool worked well. I tweaked the grain bill to swap 1/4 lb of Honey Malt for 1/2 lb of Munich (also reduced the 2-Row by 1/4 lb).

Today's Recipe
• Batch Size: 2.60 gal
• OG: 1.068 SG
• SRM: 4.3
• IBU: 31.6
• Mash: 60 min @ 152F
• pH: 5.4
• Boil: 30 min

Grain Bill
• 69.3% - 4.75 lb - Rahr 2-Row
• 11.7% - 0.80 lb - Flaked Oats
• 11.7% - 0.80 lb - White Wheat Malt
• 7.3% - 0.50 lb - Munich Malt (6 SRM)

Hops Steep/Whirlpool 20 @ 180F
• 1.5 oz - Centennial
• 1.5 oz - Citra

Dry Hops
• 1 oz - Azacca
• 1 oz - El Dorado
• 1 oz - Citra

Yeast
• 1 pkg Lallemand Verdant

Water Profile
• Ca: 100 ppm
• Mg: 7 ppm
• Na: 25 ppm
• SO4: 67 ppm
• Cl: 137 ppm

Misc
• 1/2 Campden Tablet (Mash)
• 1.5 g Ascorbic Acid (Mash)
• 1 g Irish Moss (Boil 10.0 mins)

Pic of my prior batch (probably at around day 10 in the keg).

View attachment 760241

That looks great! You may like adding more Centennial in the boil or a hop like Idaho 7 or CTZ in late boil or whirlpool to add a little more dankness to the brew. That way it's not as fruity and a little more balanced to your preference. I even like Idaho 7 in dry hop, personally. I will also say that my dry hop volumes are higher than yours - around 1.7 - 2oz/gal.

As for sweetness, Verdant and LA3 are both pretty poor attenuators so the beers usually finish pretty high. You may want to try Conan or Imperial A24, which is fantastic.
 
Thanks for the tips. Idaho 7 is on my list to pick up soon, but I have too many bags of hops in my freezer that I need to use up. I should be able to make some decent combos while I learn what I like in the style (have unopened bags of Citra, Simcoe, BRU-1, Sabro, Centennial...plus a lot of random hops). Funny, I drink a lot of hazies out and I feel I have breweries near me making good examples, but I have always paid more attention to the hops listed and not as much on the malt character, sweetness, etc.

As for sweetness, Verdant and LA3 are both pretty poor attenuators so the beers usually finish pretty high. You may want to try Conan or Imperial A24, which is fantastic.

I have been getting more into brewing with dry yeast, so I recently picked up 4 packs of Verdant. I am thinking if the current batch turns out too sweet I can play around with subbing in some sugar into the recipe. I am curious about some of the other dry yeasts or dry yeast combos. I was not crazy about a prior batch that I made with S-04, but it could have been the base recipe.
 
About this recent post...does adding Calcium salts into the boil impact the pH? I know it will lower the pH of the mash.

Over the past year or so I have started to add more Calcium to my American IPAs and Pale Ales because I feel like it makes a little better beer (though I am not sure if that is the boost in Calcium or the boost in Chloride, or just in my head) and it lowers the amount of acid I need to add to the mash to hit my target mash pH. Moving the salts to the boil kettle would mean I would need to add more acid to the mash, so I am not sure how that would impact the downstream beer pH. Or would I shoot for a higher mash pH (say 5.5 or 5.6)?
I personally wasn’t even worried about that but I would think it would have an impact on ph, but I’m not sure how much different it would be from mash adjustments. For example could you look in the calculator to see how much ph drop you’d get from adjusting your profile in the mash and then subtract that number from your ph in the kettle when you actually add your salts? I don’t know the answers to those questions but maybe someone here might
 
I kegged this one on Friday.
First time using spelt and I like it.
I didn't do a cold/soft crash and the dry hops were added in a nylon bag.
It's still a bit rough around the edges after only a few days in the keg but I'm looking forward to seeing/tasting how it develops.
FG was 1.014 and the yeast was actually a mixture of Verdant and LAIII.
I have no idea what ratios they are as I mixed both to make a starter a few beers back and have been top cropping since.



1645520438399.png


1645520490861.png
 
View attachment 759307
My latest batch is cold crashing and carbing but I couldn’t help myself. This bag of Idaho 7 I got from YVH is crazy strong. Super musty pineapple. I have 6 oz. of Lupomax Citra, 1 oz. of Citra Cryo, and 1.35 oz. of t90 Citra in the dry hop, while only having 3 oz. of Idaho 7 in there and it’s blowing the Citra away! The last batch I did was Citra, Mosaic, Galaxy, and Idaho 7 and they almost taste identical. Needless to say, I have figured out that Idaho 7 is super overpowering (not a bad thing). I’m going to do the same recipe next time keeping the Citra the same and just swap out the secondary hop every time I brew this recipe. Should be fun to see what different hops do when paired with Citra. I’m either going to do El Dorado or Sabro next. Leaning El Dorado as I love the fruit punch flavor it brings. Side note, I’m loving what Verdant IPA yeast has done to this beer. That apricot note is really shining and I’m picking up some cream/vanilla in there too. It finally helped me get a NEIPA down to 1.016 to help dry it out and cut out that cloying sweetness. Right at 8% ABV too which I’m not complaining about.
15A593D0-F1A4-4DFF-BBD0-0465FD8F35A0.jpeg029AACB3-303A-461D-AE7D-C2B727E3E33C.jpeg
Done and delicious! I can’t wait to try the next hop combo!
 
Haven't seen too much Cosmic Punch discussion in a while, but have a dry hop question.

Are most of you doing an early dry hop for biotransformation + a later dry hop with this yeast or should I just follow the most common method on here of completing fermentation then soft crashing before one big dry hop? I'm about 24 hours into fermentation and don't know if this yeast has any magical biotrans abilities or if I would maximize this beer by doing a large dry hop at the end.
I just did a starter with Cosmic Punch that I'm using for my next batch. Omega's website says mash hopping with hops high in precursor thiol compounds may do something so I'm going to do that but I'm sticking with my usual dry hopping SOP, after fermentation and cold crash/transfer off the yeast.
 
Hey all,

So a good friend of mine bought me 1lb of each mosaic, galaxy, simcoe. In hopes to maybe use them inside a NEIPA.

I got a pretty simple 5gal grain bill consisting of

2row
Golden promise
Carapils
White wheat
Flaked oats.


Will prob throw some ricehulls in for ease. Using 10.5 anvil.


Basically looking for suggestions on hop scheduling and additions and how much?

What you guys think??
 
Hey all,

So a good friend of mine bought me 1lb of each mosaic, galaxy, simcoe. In hopes to maybe use them inside a NEIPA.

I got a pretty simple 5gal grain bill consisting of

2row
Golden promise
Carapils
White wheat
Flaked oats.


Will prob throw some ricehulls in for ease. Using 10.5 anvil.


Basically looking for suggestions on hop scheduling and additions and how much?

What you guys think??
If I were you I’d go

Grains:
37.5% 2row
37.5% golden promise
12.5% wheat
12.5% oats
mash 152*f ph of 5.3

Yeast
- LAIII

hot side (60 min boil)
.5 oz simcoe @ 30 mins

1oz simcoe at 10 mins
1oz mosiac at 10 mins

whirlpool
2 oz simcoe
2 oz mosiac
1 oz Galaxy

Dryhop
1.5 oz simcoe.
2.5 oz mosiac
4 oz Galaxy

read up in this thread on ways to minimize o2 pickup in dryhop and transferring.

this is one of my most adjusted recipes(however I only use 2 row as a base and no golden promise) and it’s solid
 
Last edited:
If I were you I’d go

Grains:
37.5% 2row
37.5% golden promise
12.5% wheat
12.5% oats
mash 152*f ph of 5.3

Yeast
- LAIII

hot side (60 min boil)
.5 oz simcoe @ 30 mins

1oz simcoe at 10 mins
1oz mosiac at 10 mins

whirlpool
2 oz simcoe
2 oz mosiac
1 oz Galaxy

Dryhop
1.5 oz simcoe.
2.5 oz mosiac
4 oz Galaxy

read up in this thread on ways to minimize o2 pickup in dryhop and transferring.

this is one of my loft adjusted recipes(however I only use 2 row as a base and no golden promise) and it’s solid


Thanks!! So i pressure ferment in a fermzilla so i will purge... drop in hops.. and real seal as fast as I can, plus obviously a 02 free xfer to keg.
 
Thanks!! So i pressure ferment in a fermzilla so i will purge... drop in hops.. and real seal as fast as I can, plus obviously a 02 free xfer to keg.
Sounds good man. If you pressure ferment, I’d just use a cheap dry yeast like us05 since pressure greatly minimizes ester production
 
Back
Top