New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
If I were you I’d go

Grains:
37.5% 2row
37.5% golden promise
12.5% wheat
12.5% oats
mash 152*f ph of 5.3

Yeast
- LAIII

hot side (60 min boil)
.5 oz simcoe @ 30 mins

1oz simcoe at 10 mins
1oz mosiac at 10 mins

whirlpool
2 oz simcoe
2 oz mosiac
1 oz Galaxy

Dryhop
1.5 oz simcoe.
2.5 oz mosiac
4 oz Galaxy

read up in this thread on ways to minimize o2 pickup in dryhop and transferring.

this is one of my loft adjusted recipes(however I only use 2 row as a base and no golden promise) and it’s solid
I just wanted to ask are you experimenting with no boil hops and just whirlpool and dry hop I have found that I prefer to keep some boil hops but it seems like the brewing world is going the other way.
 
I just wanted to ask are you experimenting with no boil hops and just whirlpool and dry hop I have found that I prefer to keep some boil hops but it seems like the brewing world is going the other way.
My last beer was not boiled at all. I wouldn’t call it an experiment per say, I was just clearing out some homegrown hops and since theres no way to know the alphas I didn’t want to risk using them in boil. In the recipe I provided to sully, it would be reminiscent of a traditional NEIPA with around 40-50 ibus. He could cut those 10 minute additions to flame out or drop them both in half if he wanted

I wouldn’t say the brewing world is going the otherway either, but I will say the perceived ibus are getting lower with this style but that could also be a water chemistry thing and not just using less boil hops or no boil hops at all
 
Last edited:
Same im not against boil additions just not very experienced with NEIPAs so I wanted to ask the group. I do like the hop schedule he provided, but again am open to other suggestions or hops to add during boil as well. Something clean to add some IBUs
 
That is a very similar recipe to what I would call my base neipa .. I start with a small simcoe addition at 60 min, then do a 10 min addition and a whirlpool addition, usually consisting of citra or mosaic or both along with another hop. The hops vary but I have brewed an almost identical neipa as what @Dgallo has mentioned with fantastic results.
 
That is a very similar recipe to what I would call my base neipa .. I start with a small simcoe addition at 60 min, then do a 10 min addition and a whirlpool addition, usually consisting of citra or mosaic or both along with another hop. The hops vary but I have brewed an almost identical neipa as what @Dgallo has mentioned with fantastic results.

Already adjusted my beersmith to match his. Thinking im going to take his advice on the dry yeast US05 since im going to pressure ferment.

Thoughts anyone?

I was thinking of using Juice. Ive used before, and had decent results was thinking of trying again.
 
I like juice, it is a low attenuator so I usually add a little us05 when the juice starts to taper off to get my FG where I want it. I do 15 gallon batches and I dont pressure ferment, atleast not yet. For your situation, either one would be fine, if you go with juice maybe dont spund right away, let it ride for the first couple days then pressure ferment after that... just a thought, I have no experience with it personally.
 
Well I just poured the first glass of my latest neipa, and its excellent. First time using white labs coastal haze and I'll let the picture do the talking.

65% 2row
15% white wheat
8% malted oats
5% carapils
5% dextrose
2% honey malt

Hot side hops
Simcoe, citra, mosaic
Dry hops
Citra, galaxy, strata

Not even a good picture but ya get the idea. Coastal haze will be my new go to for this style.

20220223_174918.jpg
 
I guess my question now is the dry hop?

I planned on doing it at 3-4 days in.. whenever i test fg and get fg i want. Using a hop sock. Im just going to slowly let spunding purge c02 and drop in. My plan was to leave for 3-4 days as well.

After this should i remove hops or just package in keg and let settle in there?

What are everyone elses styles or practices. Sorry for questions relatively new to brewing Neipas with big dry hops.
 
I really like to do a small dry hop during active fermentation I think it really increases haze. Then I try to time my second dry hop so that I will be cold crashing within 2 days and getting it out of that vessel in no more than 4 days. I don’t like to let the beer sit on a large amount of hops for more than that. Here’s my last brew.
10DAF126-3A11-45FE-96F0-2ACFF7ADC7BC.jpeg
 
I agree, I usually plan my dry hop 2 days before cold crash and packaging. I also soft crash for a 36 hours before dryhopping and then hop it at 58f. Here's my latest. This one I split my dry hop into 2 stages, did the first one 3 days before cold crash and the second one the next day, I feel this helped with hop saturation, I also use a conical and rouse the hops a few times.
20220224_180320.jpg
 
Both of those loook amazing. Again im new to this style kinda as i drink it alot. Just never brewed. We will see how it turns out. Cant wait. Fermentation is super active already and its making my mini fridge smell incredible.
 
I guess my question now is the dry hop?

I planned on doing it at 3-4 days in.. whenever i test fg and get fg i want. Using a hop sock. Im just going to slowly let spunding purge c02 and drop in. My plan was to leave for 3-4 days as well.

After this should i remove hops or just package in keg and let settle in there?

What are everyone elses styles or practices. Sorry for questions relatively new to brewing Neipas with big dry hops.
I don’t think there’s any benefit to dry hopping early in fermentation. And more haze certainly isn‘t equivalent to better beer. You can make a really hazy beer that looks cool but tastes like $h!t and you can make an amazing ipa with light haze. If you really want to DH during fermentation do it at the tail end and go off gravity. I‘ve never understood the people who give advice to DH at day X - there’s way to many variable for that to be good advice.
 
I don’t think there’s any benefit to dry hopping early in fermentation. And more haze certainly isn‘t equivalent to better beer. You can make a really hazy beer that looks cool but tastes like $h!t and you can make an amazing ipa with light haze. If you really want to DH during fermentation do it at the tail end and go off gravity. I‘ve never understood the people who give advice to DH at day X - there’s way to many variable for that to be good advice.
Thanks! I planned to go off gravity for sure. If its still super far away from my fg im gonna wait. I have a party tap setup to pull a sample and test gravity
 
I don’t think there’s any benefit to dry hopping early in fermentation. And more haze certainly isn‘t equivalent to better beer. You can make a really hazy beer that looks cool but tastes like $h!t and you can make an amazing ipa with light haze. If you really want to DH during fermentation do it at the tail end and go off gravity. I‘ve never understood the people who give advice to DH at day X - there’s way to many variable for that to be good advice.

Yep, quite the contrary actually, if you DH early in the fermentation then your haze is more likely to drop out. I've had this happen.
 
Yep, quite the contrary actually, if you DH early in the fermentation then your haze is more likely to drop out. I've had this happen.
Think of it like this: your yeast is going to drop out of suspension at some point. Some are faster than others but they’ll all drop eventually. When you dry hop during active fermentation, some of the hop oils are going to bond with the yeast cells, which as stated are going to drop. Ideally, in my opinion, you want to get as much yeast out of the way as possible before introducing your dry hop. This way there is nothing to pull those precious hop oils out of suspension in your finished beer. It really just doesn’t make any sense to dry hop during fermentation if your goal is a very hoppy beer in the end.

That being said a small addition during fermentation can add some complexity and depth, but don’t expect a big dry hop during to give you the same impact of a large dry hop post fermentation, after dropping your yeast.
 
Last edited:
Yep, quite the contrary actually, if you DH early in the fermentation then your haze is more likely to drop out. I've had this happen.
the grain protein chain size has a big thing to do with if fermentation hoping will cause additional clearing as well. Grains with larger protein chains, specifically flaked grains since their unmalted, the malting process doesn’t alter their protein chains. Since these chain are larger to start, they have more weight. During fermentation, yeast will bind proteins and polyphenols together. As you dryhop during that time with larger loads, you get more polyphenol in the mix, so it makes these molecular chains larger and larger, causing them to be heavier, which leads to additional clearing
 
Last edited:
How are you guys dry hopping at the tail end of fermentation? Any time I have done that, I end up with a diacetyl bomb. I have just been soft crashing then dry hopping at about 55 for a couple of days with rousing and that has worked well enough, but I want to try doing a warmer dry hop on my next batch I’m brewing on Thursday. I assume that I would add the hops with a few points left so the yeast can ferment out the sugar in the hops and then do a diacetyl rest? I have started doing forced diacetyl tests on all of my batches and that works, but I feel like the dry hops would have to be in the beer for like 4+ days for the yeast to clean everything up using this method.

Edit: I’m thinking of doing half warm and the rest after a soft crash to see if this adds a layer of flavor in the finished beer btw.
 
Yep, quite the contrary actually, if you DH early in the fermentation then your haze is more likely to drop out. I've had this happen.

A little back there was a BruLab Podcast that touched on this topic: Episode 044 | Yeast Dependent Haze w/ Dr. Laura Burns

I am not sure if the supporting paper or presentation material is public. I would be interested in reading the details. There is this link but all I can see is the overview: Investigations into Yeast-Dependent Colloidal Haze - Details

They discussed that some yeast were "Haze Positive" (London Ale III and Voss were mentioned) and some were "Haze Neutral" (I recall them mentioning Conan and Chico).

They also touched on dry hopping time (though I recall them using the term "at knockout" and I was not clear what temp they were adding the hops):

Dry hop timing at the start of fermentation is inhibitory to yeast-dependent haze development, where mid-late fermentation dry hopping maximizes haze specifically in the "haze-positive" strains.

Note there is also a recent BruLab episode "Episode 050 | The Cause Of Haze In Hazy IPA w/ Scott Janish". I did not get a lot of new info out of that episode. It covers some of the info that is in "The New IPA" (and maybe getting a little dated). There is some useful info from Scott on his processes at Sapwood Cellars, but it was stuff I heard heard before.
 
Well i checked in on an fg sample last nite. Started at 1.074 og. Down to about 1.022. Gon a give it a day or 2 more than a diactyl rest, Dry hop for 3 days then cold crash and keg.

Pic for color reference. Took a taste sample to and its coming along great and really happy with color.
 

Attachments

  • 20220301_200520.jpg
    20220301_200520.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 20
2021 Citra flash sale, $14/lb

How would people rate their luck with the 2021 Citra from YVH? Has it been consistent?

I am not sure how long ago it was, but I picked up two 1 lb bags of 2019 Citra from a YVH Flash Friday sale. I am just about done with the first bag (with the second one still to open). These 2019 Citra were not the greatest. Lacking the "bright" citrus flavors of the previous bag (from a different vendor and year). They have more of a citrus pith character. I am too cheap to dump hops, so I have been using them but more as a "better Cascade" than as a showcase hop.

The Experimental Hop Variety Pack seems fun to play with
https://yakimavalleyhops.com/products/experimental-hop-variety-pack
 
How would people rate their luck with the 2021 Citra from YVH? Has it been consistent?

I am not sure how long ago it was, but I picked up two 1 lb bags of 2019 Citra from a YVH Flash Friday sale. I am just about done with the first bag (with the second one still to open). These 2019 Citra were not the greatest. Lacking the "bright" citrus flavors of the previous bag (from a different vendor and year). They have more of a citrus pith character. I am too cheap to dump hops, so I have been using them but more as a "better Cascade" than as a showcase hop.

The Experimental Hop Variety Pack seems fun to play with
https://yakimavalleyhops.com/products/experimental-hop-variety-pack
I'm on the fence as well. I think a thread for reporting what people thought of specific hops from a specific year from a specific place would be extremely helpful to gauge if jumping on something like this would be beneficial.
 
I'm on the fence as well. I think a thread for reporting what people thought of specific hops from a specific year from a specific place would be extremely helpful to gauge if jumping on something like this would be beneficial.
That only can only really be done with places such as BSG who gives specific lot numbers of their hops. That said I feel that If you go from a place like YVH, you can base it off the AA% to get them to the same bale/lot they got in. That said, You don’t have an option to buy their hops and ask for packages with specific AA%

How would people rate their luck with the 2021 Citra from YVH? Has it been consistent?

I am not sure how long ago it was, but I picked up two 1 lb bags of 2019 Citra from a YVH Flash Friday sale. I am just about done with the first bag (with the second one still to open). These 2019 Citra were not the greatest. Lacking the "bright" citrus flavors of the previous bag (from a different vendor and year). They have more of a citrus pith character. I am too cheap to dump hops, so I have been using them but more as a "better Cascade" than as a showcase hop.

The Experimental Hop Variety Pack seems fun to play with
https://yakimavalleyhops.com/products/experimental-hop-variety-pack
I’ve really enjoyed the 2021 Citra I used so far. Only used 4 oz but it was solid. The 2021 LUPOMAX I got was fantastic though.
 
Well I just poured the first glass of my latest neipa, and its excellent. First time using white labs coastal haze and I'll let the picture do the talking.

65% 2row
15% white wheat
8% malted oats
5% carapils
5% dextrose
2% honey malt

Hot side hops
Simcoe, citra, mosaic
Dry hops
Citra, galaxy, strata

Not even a good picture but ya get the idea. Coastal haze will be my new go to for this style.

View attachment 760576
Looks great! Have you tried Imperial Dry Hop A24? I'm curious how they compare since they are both blends. (I cannot find any details on what is in coastal haze)

Man, I love this hobby. So much fun to experiment!
 
Looks great! Have you tried Imperial Dry Hop A24? I'm curious how they compare since they are both blends. (I cannot find any details on what is in coastal haze)

Man, I love this hobby. So much fun to experiment!
I have used a24, great yeast dont get me wrong, but this coastal haze has impressed me bigtime.. first time using it and it has quickly became my favorite.
 
I have used a24, great yeast dont get me wrong, but this coastal haze has impressed me bigtime.. first time using it and it has quickly became my favorite.
Coastal haze is likely a blend of LA3, Conan, and Sach Trois. (The white labs versions) I don’t know this for a fact, but someone posted this assumption a while ago, and the description of the yeast is on par with this. I used it once and wasn’t impressed, but that was probably more my fault than the yeast itself. Maybe I’ll revisit it at some point.

Here:

4A9D17A7-6BF1-4A3A-81C7-50E1107DF1CF.png
 
Coastal haze is likely a blend of LA3, Conan, and Sach Trois. (The white labs versions) I don’t know this for a fact, but someone posted this assumption a while ago, and the description of the yeast is on par with this. I used it once and wasn’t impressed, but that was probably more my fault than the yeast itself. Maybe I’ll revisit it at some point.

Here:

View attachment 761471
I'm curious how they compare since they are both blends. (I cannot find any details on what is in coastal haze
I was actually just replying to @BoilerInSoCal about the same thing, regarding the sta1 gene. I believe it is London Fog (LAIII) and 644 (Imperial a20). I don’t see Conan being a part of the blend personally, that said @Northern_Brewer is the most knowledgeable person on yeast genetics that I know of so it certainly possible it’s in there.

Fun fact, Imperial does blend Juice and Citrus together for commercial pitches as well as blends of Juice and Barbarian.
 
Last edited:
Well I just poured the first glass of my latest neipa, and its excellent. First time using white labs coastal haze and I'll let the picture do the talking.

65% 2row
15% white wheat
8% malted oats
5% carapils
5% dextrose
2% honey malt

Hot side hops
Simcoe, citra, mosaic
Dry hops
Citra, galaxy, strata

Not even a good picture but ya get the idea. Coastal haze will be my new go to for this style.

View attachment 760576
It's my go to for this style as well. I've used about 8 different yeasts, and CH has been my favorite so far. No hop burn, harshness etc. Such a great yeast. CHUGS.
I really like to do a small dry hop during active fermentation I think it really increases haze. Then I try to time my second dry hop so that I will be cold crashing within 2 days and getting it out of that vessel in no more than 4 days. I don’t like to let the beer sit on a large amount of hops for more than that. Here’s my last brew.View attachment 760977
Skip the DH during fermentation. You'll get better results dropping the yeast and DHing. I found my beer cleared immensely when DHing during ferm. And you'll get brighter hop character after dropping the yeast first. Seems to be the consensus around here, and I used to be a big fan of biotransformation. Beer is drinkable almost immediately after kegging DHing post ferm.
 
I believe it is Burlington Ale (LAIII) and 644 (Imperial a20). I don’t see Conan being a part of the blend personally, that said @Northern_Brewer is the most knowledgeable person on yeast genetics that I know of so it certainly possible it’s in there.

You're too kind, but that reputation is far from justified. Assuming you're talking about WLP095 Burlington, that's the White Labs version of Conan, but it's got a reputation for being a rather bland member of the Conan family compared to eg the Yeast Bay version.

Don't think of Conan as being a single strain that is the same between different yeast labs, it varies quite a bit - presumably because it's mostly been harvested in different degrees of stressed semi-death from Heady cans.
 
How would people rate their luck with the 2021 Citra from YVH? Has it been consistent?

I am not sure how long ago it was, but I picked up two 1 lb bags of 2019 Citra from a YVH Flash Friday sale. I am just about done with the first bag (with the second one still to open). These 2019 Citra were not the greatest. Lacking the "bright" citrus flavors of the previous bag (from a different vendor and year). They have more of a citrus pith character. I am too cheap to dump hops, so I have been using them but more as a "better Cascade" than as a showcase hop.

The Experimental Hop Variety Pack seems fun to play with
https://yakimavalleyhops.com/products/experimental-hop-variety-pack

A little late to this - just used 8oz of '21 Citra in Whirlpool and the beer is fantastic. I've rarely gotten bad Citra from YVH though. Simcoe and Mosaic have been spotty much more often.
 
How are you guys dry hopping at the tail end of fermentation? Any time I have done that, I end up with a diacetyl bomb. I have just been soft crashing then dry hopping at about 55 for a couple of days with rousing and that has worked well enough, but I want to try doing a warmer dry hop on my next batch I’m brewing on Thursday. I assume that I would add the hops with a few points left so the yeast can ferment out the sugar in the hops and then do a diacetyl rest? I have started doing forced diacetyl tests on all of my batches and that works, but I feel like the dry hops would have to be in the beer for like 4+ days for the yeast to clean everything up using this method.

Edit: I’m thinking of doing half warm and the rest after a soft crash to see if this adds a layer of flavor in the finished beer btw.
Any info for me guys? Do you dry hop after passing a forced diacetyl test? Do you have to do another forced diacetyl test after dry hopping too? Any help on this question would be greatly appreciated!
 
I'm on the fence as well. I think a thread for reporting what people thought of specific hops from a specific year from a specific place would be extremely helpful to gauge if jumping on something like this would be beneficial.

Hop Quality is probably one area that I need to step up my game. I tend to get sucked into ordering 4 to 6 one lb bags that are on sale without any specific plans to use them. All these new hops and $14/lb sale prices so tempting. Often it will be a year before I even get to opening up a bag, and likely another year or more before I end up using them up. I often notice significant differences from bag to bag (hops like Amarillo, Citra, Simcoe, etc.) but since my last bag might have been purchased 2 years ago from a different vendor, so I don't have enough data points for a pattern (crop year? lot? vendor?).

I latest NEIPA batch is about ready to be dry hopped this evening. I dropped it down to 45F last night and will let it warm back up to 60F to 65F today.
 
Back
Top