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New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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I've been getting away with using gravity for transfers since I don't have a pressure-rated fermenter quite yet. Keg posts always end up getting clogged if I ferment in those, even with a filter over my dip tube. Thing is, most pressure-rated fermenters are absolutely gigantic and won't fit into my fermentation fridge (kegerator). Well, except for Dgallo's fermonster setup. Maybe it's time …
Doesn't take much pressure to effect a transfer unless you are going uphill. I use 2 psi and none of my gear is pressure rated. I use glass carboys for fermenting and 2 psi won't even blow the 2 hole carboy cap off
 
I am going to try DH on top of the yeast cake this time. Like you used to do, @Dgallo. You have earlier considered coffie grinding a large part of the DH. Can you recommend this practice?
Also do you think the hop flavor is more intense after you switched to racking to a separate dry hop fermenter?
I only ended up doing the grinding one time. It turned out good but can’t say with actually made it better but they definitely floated better.

but yea dryhoping off the yeast definitely made a better beer as I can agitate the dryhops without resuspending yeast and trub
 
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Some background earth, but honestly almost thinking need more earthiness to keep the depth of this beer because the passionfruit/tropical vibe is HUGE.

That looks awesome, I gotta order Motuere and finally give it a shot. Those NZ hops are on fire these days!

In regards to earthiness, this is going back to the subject of adding some CTZ in boil. I'm definitely going to be experimenting with that myself, but this is also what I love about Idaho 7. I actually got really nice black tea/dank weed character out of Idaho 7 just in whirlpool and dry hop. I scored well on that one in a comp because I think the judges really enjoyed a hint of something more familiar in an otherwise super tropical NEIPA.

PS. I did Hop Sensory training with Yakima Chief Hops yesterday and holy crap, Talus smelled like pure heaven. Big time navel orange, cherries and pineapple. Absolutely explosive.
 
That looks awesome, I gotta order Motuere and finally give it a shot. Those NZ hops are on fire these days!

In regards to earthiness, this is going back to the subject of adding some CTZ in boil. I'm definitely going to be experimenting with that myself, but this is also what I love about Idaho 7. I actually got really nice black tea/dank weed character out of Idaho 7 just in whirlpool and dry hop. I scored well on that one in a comp because I think the judges really enjoyed a hint of something more familiar in an otherwise super tropical NEIPA.

PS. I did Hop Sensory training with Yakima Chief Hops yesterday and holy crap, Talus smelled like pure heaven. Big time navel orange, cherries and pineapple. Absolutely explosive.

I just tasted mine (recipe a couple pages back, lots of I7) last night and its super dank, but also orangy. I'm excited to see how it matures after a couple weeks cold!
 
So today was keg day for my first NEIPA using cosmic punch. Columbus and cascade only on hot side (3oz cascade also used in the mash hops) and DH with the following schedule:

DH1: 1oz Citra LUPOMAX, 1oz Galaxy, 2oz moutere
DH2: 1oz Citra LUPOMAX, 3oz Nectaron

The hydro sample (tasting just the effect of hot side hops and cosmic punch) was very citrus and tropical. The citrus was more or less grapefruitiness. It also had some nice earthiness but was more complimentary after the citrus/tropical vibe. Assuming that was the Columbus which I love. Pitched at 68 and after 24hrs let it rise to ~71, then after about 3.5 days as it was slowing down I pushed it to 73. Finished by day 5 but let it sit at that temp till the hydro sample at day 7. FG was 1.015 (one of the few times my TILT was deadly accurate compared to hydrometer lol). Started soft crash day 8 to 50 and held for 36 hrs@50 degrees before letting it rise to ~53-54 for dry hopping. This was intended on just being citra, galaxy, moutere and the first DH was planned. All DH1 hops smelled fantastic, especially moutere. 24hrs later for the second dry hop, and the new pack of galaxy just smelled "OK" at best, so I decided to switch course given one of my fav combos thus far was exclusively Moutere and Nectaron. I ONLY had 13oz nectaron left and its out of stock but decided to use some anyways lol. Glad I did!

The pics are the force carbed sample from leftovers after kegging (need better lighting I know), but in general - I am stunned how fruity this is and aroma of force carbed sample is fantastic. Was wanting to make sure I get the passionfruit/tropical vibe for this and this nailed it. Some background earth, but honestly almost thinking need more earthiness to keep the depth of this beer because the passionfruit/tropical vibe is HUGE. For those who haven't used nectaron, its prob my fav hop these days and has awesome peach and tropical vibes with a lower NZ diesel character compared to Nelson or other "edgy" NZ hops. But it still has the NZ character. Its really a refined hop IMO. This beer is ready to drink NOW with zero conditioning needed to enjoy it, although I will take the week to carb it up and allow for some conditioning/aromas to work its magic anyways lol.

I do agree with @secretlevel in that I don't think that cosmic punch changes or gets in the way of the hop profile/flavor but it really seems to amplify the profile in general. In my case - its the passionfruit/tropical vibe. Definitely going to keep experimenting with the cosmic punch. I am a fan.

Poor indoor lighting, but will try to get a proper beer porn pic uploaded in about 7-10days when the keg is tapped.
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Looks great man! Don’t be afraid to send some my way lol
 
That looks awesome, I gotta order Motuere and finally give it a shot. Those NZ hops are on fire these days!

In regards to earthiness, this is going back to the subject of adding some CTZ in boil. I'm definitely going to be experimenting with that myself, but this is also what I love about Idaho 7. I actually got really nice black tea/dank weed character out of Idaho 7 just in whirlpool and dry hop. I scored well on that one in a comp because I think the judges really enjoyed a hint of something more familiar in an otherwise super tropical NEIPA.

PS. I did Hop Sensory training with Yakima Chief Hops yesterday and holy crap, Talus smelled like pure heaven. Big time navel orange, cherries and pineapple. Absolutely explosive.
Thanks man and yeah I really like Moutere. And its relatively cheap for a NZ hop. Just checked YVH and the 2020 variety is actually cheaper than 2019? Not sure why. Its also super high Alpha acids so great on the hot side too and has nice pungent hop character. I completely agree though that I7 is great! I primarily have been using it as a hot side hop. I did one of @Dgallo single hop pale ales with I7 and it was surprisingly orangey (2019 lot) with little black tea/herbalness. BUT I think it really depends on how you pair it as well. I have done a Moutere/Nectaron combo (mostly moutere hot side, and then flip-flopped ratio on DH to favor nectaron) that was straight awesome fruit with some background smooth NZ diesel and was awesome. They really balanced well and it wasn't just a "one-note" combo, nice and had great depth. then when I went to repeat it and didn't have enough of both hops, I decided to use I7 on hot side with moutere and a dash of nectaron to compensate thinking I would get some of the orange and the earthiness/tea/woodiness descriptors were MUCH greater than with Moutere/Nectaron alone. It was still a very nice beer but not as fruity and had more complex earth/etc that time around. So I7 really depends on how you pair it to determine what will come out IMO. Great hop for sure.

As for Columbus? Its great. Nice true hop out of the bag type character, grapefruit citrus to me. Great hot side hop for depth of character.
 
Looks great man! Don’t be afraid to send some my way lol
lol... yeah, will this beer see nation-wide distribution?
Lol, when I got into brewing 1.5yrs ago, I started with kegging and don't even own any bottling equipment so distro to friends/peeps only occurs when I can borrow my home brew clubs canner. Will prob purchase some bottling equipment at some point though as Id like to age some beers like a stout and/or actually enter a competition or two. Until then, I consider my posts here on HBT to be my way to visually "nation-wide distribute" lol :yes:
 
Lol, when I got into brewing 1.5yrs ago, I started with kegging and don't even own any bottling equipment so distro to friends/peeps only occurs when I can borrow my home brew clubs canner. Will prob purchase some bottling equipment at some point though as Id like to age some beers like a stout and/or actually enter a competition or two. Until then, I consider my posts here on HBT to be my way to visually "nation-wide distribute" lol :yes:
Get a Tapcooler. Bottling a few off the tap (or the whole keg) is a snap.
 
Lol, when I got into brewing 1.5yrs ago, I started with kegging and don't even own any bottling equipment so distro to friends/peeps only occurs when I can borrow my home brew clubs canner. Will prob purchase some bottling equipment at some point though as Id like to age some beers like a stout and/or actually enter a competition or two. Until then, I consider my posts here on HBT to be my way to visually "nation-wide distribute" lol :yes:

Haha, no worries at all! If one day you do decide to bottle, check out the "We no need no stinking beer gun" method. I've sent bottles to friends and comps and it's always worked out well. I just top them off to make sure that the foam pushes out all of O2. Bonus is that I sold my BeerGun and made a few bucks back!
 
I seen a few in here say they are messing with Cosmic Punch. I am also going to experiment with it too but put a big emphasis on the wine character from it as it was described. The recipe is still going to be up in the air until I brew it Sunday. I want to push some IBUs in the boil to give it a little life as I am getting hazied out.

I want something crispy, not too sweet, good body and a decent bitterness. (drank too many alchemist beers over the weekend and made me miss them)
End around 1.015 per Brewfather to plan for it to attenuate more like @secretlevel said. Hopefully to stay above 1.012.

85% Pilsner
6.5% Flaked Wheat
5% GNO
3.5% Carafoam

or

65.5% Pilsner
13% Vienna
10% Flaked Wheat
6.5% White Wheat
5% GNO

Cascade in the mash.

Warrior to bitter to 35 IBU (about 50 IBU when all done with the mash hops)

Citra, Nelson Sauvin and Mosaic in the whirlpool 150 degrees

Then the same three for 2 dry hops


The grain bill might end up on a dartboard and it will pick what I use. I am leaning towards the bottom one a little due to the malt balance to the bitterness but I like the simplicity of the top one to let the fermentation and hops shine.


edit: 1.066 OG or so and 152 mash temp


I think this one is in my top 5 IPAs that I have made. It is very soft, delicate and dry. I will be using this yeast again to try other techniques to get the most out of it. Full write up @ Instagram

I ended up doing:

75% Pilsner
10% Flaked Wheat
10% White Wheat
3.4% GNO
1.6% Acid Malt

152 Mash
175 Cl : 125 SO4

Motueka, Nelson Sauvin and Citra


20210827_165430.jpg
 
I know most everyone here does closed transfers, but for those who don't, have you heard of adding Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) to the mash or when kegging? I researched a little, and there's definitely people who are doing this. Most claim it's magic, even if it is science...
 
I know most everyone here does closed transfers, but for those who don't, have you heard of adding Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) to the mash or when kegging? I researched a little, and there's definitely people who are doing this. Most claim it's magic, even if it is science...
I am using it. Every time. It is an antioxidant. Works great. But it breaks down when heated up, so you should add it after the yeast is done fermenting. E.g. together with your DH. 0.5g/10L.
 
I know most everyone here does closed transfers, but for those who don't, have you heard of adding Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) to the mash or when kegging? I researched a little, and there's definitely people who are doing this. Most claim it's magic, even if it is science...
I went pretty far down the rabbit hole of vitamin C and SMB in an effort to completely eradicate any oxygen. I read a few reliable brewers stating that vitamin C alone can actually have the opposite effect you are looking for. They said that adding SMB with it would prevent that from happening and work synergistically together.

I tried it one time adding both vitamin C and SMB to the serving keg, and had a horrible sulfur/rotten egg smell that I could not get rid of. I posted on here all about it asking for advice and I tried everything that was recommended to no avail. After weeks I simply could not get rid of it and haven’t tried using either of these again.

I am 100% certain that the sulfur smell came from the SMB so perhaps I will try using vitamin C again (alone) to see what it may bring to the table.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/ascorbic-acid-as-an-oxygen-scavenger-for-beer.628158/
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/campden-tablets-sulfites-and-brewing-water.361073/
7A8CF307-A43A-4F30-9721-F2B83902B597.png
 
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I went pretty far down the rabbit hole of vitamin C and SMB in an effort to completely eradicate any oxygen. I read a few reliable brewers stating that vitamin C alone can actually have the opposite effect you are looking for. They said that adding SMB with it would prevent that from happening and work synergistically together.

I tried it one time adding both vitamin C and SMB to the serving keg, and had a horrible sulfur/rotten egg smell that I could not get rid of. I posted on here all about it asking for advice and I tried everything that was recommended to no avail. After weeks I simply could not get rid of it and haven’t tried using either of these again.

I am 100% certain that the sulfur smell came from the SMB so perhaps I will try using vitamin C again (alone) to see what it may bring to the table.
Yeah, I read the C and SMB together thing too, but seems like everyone has settled on just C. I haven't had noticeable oxidation, but I'm sure it's happening to some degree.
 
Sodium metabisulfite taste awful in beer. I tried is once. When I wanted to kill the yeast. I won't use it again.

I recommend using only ascorbic acid. 1g to 5 gal is enough.
 
Sodium metabisulfite taste awful in beer. I tried is once. When I wanted to kill the yeast. I won't use it again.

I recommend using only ascorbic acid. 1g to 5 gal is enough.
Do you just dump the powder in or dissolve it some kind of liquid?
 
Sodium metabisulfite taste awful in beer. I tried is once. When I wanted to kill the yeast. I won't use it again.

I recommend using only ascorbic acid. 1g to 5 gal is enough.
a while back you mentioned using citric acid in addition to ascorbic. are you still doing that as well?
 
a while back you mentioned using citric acid in addition to ascorbic. are you still doing that as well?
I have tried both with and without citric acid in addition. Citric acid should increase the effect of the other antioxidants. And if you ask me, it doesn't hurt adding a tiny bit. The taste of citric acid blends fine in a NEIPA.
But still ascorbic acid also works just fine alone.
 
I am going to invest in a new PET fermenter with pressure fermentation capability.
Should I go with a two fermenter set up and do a closed transfer away from the yeast and into a fermenter with dry hops? Or should I go with a conical fermenter with a 2" butterfly valve in the bottom for dumping the yeast and then add dry hops through the top through a co2 flow?

Is it possible to dump the yeast completely through a valve? Or is a closed transfer the safest way to get rid of all the yeast?
 
I am going to invest in a new PET fermenter with pressure fermentation capability.
Should I go with a two fermenter set up and do a closed transfer away from the yeast and into a fermenter with dry hops? Or should I go with a conical fermenter with a 2" butterfly valve in the bottom for dumping the yeast and then add dry hops through the top through a co2 flow?

Is it possible to dump the yeast completely through a valve? Or is a closed transfer the safest way to get rid of all the yeast?
I think this really would depend on your setup. How would you plan on temp controlling the fermenter? For example if you use a chest freezer, then the conical design would seem to be a PITA because you can't reach the dump valve. So your solution for what you are putting the fermenter in might help here to decide. I have never done any sort of secondary for fruit or dry hopping purposes. I know you can purge the second vessel for DHing, but how well can you actually purge it truly to have the environment totally devoid of O2? Looking at @doug293cz previous graphs and comments here on HBT, even when you purge a keg that was once full of star san from a CO2 tank (not natural fermentation gas), you still need ~8 additional purges of CO2 at 30psi afterwards to get that keg (or any second vessel) down to acceptable O2 ppm ranges if I remember correctly. So with that in mind, a PET grade conical fermenter makes more sense as it removes the need to DH in a second vessel that you need to go to great lengths to make sure its devoid of O2 as much as possible. Just a thought as I am just thinking that minimizing O2 is more important than getting the beer of the yeast/trub prior to DHing.

Excited to see what you decide on regardless!
 
Absorbic Acid can actually be a super oxidizer if not paired with something else. I don’t feel like looking up the exact reaction but I believe in the presence of certain metals it will actually speed up the oxidative reaction. Those metals are often found in Flaked adjuncts.

I believe pairing it with something like Brewtan B helps.

Been a while since I looked this stuff up but I wouldn’t go adding Vitamin C on its own to any beers.
 
Absorbic Acid can actually be a super oxidizer if not paired with something else. I don’t feel like looking up the exact reaction but I believe in the presence of certain metals it will actually speed up the oxidative reaction. Those metals are often found in Flaked adjuncts.

I believe pairing it with something like Brewtan B helps.

Been a while since I looked this stuff up but I wouldn’t go adding Vitamin C on its own to any beers.
I think it’s manganese if I recall correctly. Something about the malting process of grain denatures or uses it up.
 
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