New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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I've actually used Sabro on day 5 of fermentation in my recent batch and I can't say that I was impressed. I got a bunch of hop burn and really not much coconut. Maybe that's too soon in fermentation though, I want to try it on day 8 or so.

I think this piece is really interesting and am planning to experiment with in the next batch:


This is something that I've seen @couchsending suggest and have seen on Simple's blog. He swears by it! 9% Nelson Hazy IPA – Post Boil pH Adjustments?
How much oz in how big batch?
 
How much oz in how big batch?

Day 5: 2oz Sabro and 1oz Citra in a 5 gal batch.
Day 14: 5oz Citra, 2oz Mosaic and 1oz Azacca after a soft crash to 58F and those hops are much more evident. Maybe they just overshadow the Sabro...

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Disappointed in my third batch based on the OPs recipe. The first one I did as a single IPA, the second I turned into a double IPA. Both of those were excellent. This last one I went back to a single IPA and actually hit my numbers damn near perfectly. Granted, I brewed it right about 2 weeks ago, but have tasted it twice and am so far really unimpressed. By unimpressed I mean like almost none of the flavor hops are coming thru. Really the only thing I did different was add in some Clarity Ferm as I am trying it out on all my beers as my wife is gluten sensitive. I do closed transfers from fermenter to keg. Here is my recipe. Really no idea aside from maybe it just needs more time to mature in the keg?
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I find the beer needs to sit in the keg for 2 weeks minimum to condition. Over these 2 weeks flavors and aroma will develop. Give it time and then come back to it. If you still feel its lacking that certain something you could always add more dry hops to the serving keg.
 
Used Citra Lupomax hops for the first time, and I have to say, I'm a BIG fan. I dry hopped post fermentation after soft crashing to 55F, and I'm getting straight juice from the fermenter. Currently carbing right now, so I'll have more feedback next week, but I can definitely see myself using these more in the future. Only a few more bucks per pound! Might have to grab some Mosaic...
 
My first NEIPA. Need to up the carbonation(i gave it about a 25 psi shot when I kegged it so time to put on a steady CO2 supply) Grapefruit is overpowering the other flavors but I like grapefruit. Also, I over shot the attenuation so it’s lacking what I think should be more mouth feel.

At 7.4% ABV it tastes more like a well hopped session IPA. I’m not perceiving any hop bite and it’s only been a few days since being kegged as far as aging goes.

At this point I’m pleased and looking forward to another shot at brewing this style taking what I learned and cleaning up a few of the hiccups.

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You’re simply running The CO2 through two kegs instead of one, so theoretically if you believe there is enough CO2 to purge one keg you could purge a bunch of kegs. It doesn’t really make a difference. The tubing in the picture is 3/16 but I’d imagine anything similar will work the same. This is the first time I’m trying the SMB and a AA So I don’t have any actual experience with it. I’ve read some pretty positive things about it though which prompted me to give it a try.
how did this SMB+AA experiment go? curious to try myself
 
how did this SMB+AA experiment go? curious to try myself
Is SMB normal used post fermentation? I use it sometimes in the mash water in low dissolved oxygen brewing. But the only time I used it post fermentation (in a pilsner) it tasted awful. Instead I use Ascorbic Acid and maybe also some Citric Acid since it increase the antioxidant effect of the Ascorbic Acid.
 
Is SMB normal used post fermentation? I use it sometimes in the mash water in low dissolved oxygen brewing. But the only time I used it post fermentation (in a pilsner) it tasted awful. Instead I use Ascorbic Acid and maybe also some Citric Acid since it increase the antioxidant effect of the Ascorbic Acid.
i definitely encountered that last i tried it post fermentation. i assume the dose would have to be very small.

interesting about citric acid and AA. what dosage do you use for the two of them?
 
I wonder why he recommends phosphoric acid. I do a post fermentation addition of ascorbic acid and citric acid because of its antioxidants properties. This does also lower the pH. But I havn't measured the pH of the final beer.
He recommends specifically Phosphorus acid because it is flavorless. Lactic and citric acid both can impart flavor
 
Terrible. Smelled like disgusting rhino farts and sulfur. I’ve purged the keg numerous times and it goes away for a bit but then keeps coming back. I’m on the verge of dumping the keg. I will not be doing this again.
Do you have any copper wire? If you open the keg with your co2 connected to your liquid post and lightly swirl the beer with something of pure Copper should release the sulfur and co2 will help force out the sulfur while minimizing oxidation risk
 
Do you have any copper wire? If you open the keg with your co2 connected to your liquid post and lightly swirl the beer with something of pure Copper should release the sulfur and co2 will help force out the sulfur while minimizing oxidation risk
Interesting...I don’t have any copper wire but I could definitely get some. Perhaps I’ll give it a shot because it’s an otherwise pretty good beer. How long do you think I should swirl it?
 
Terrible. Smelled like disgusting rhino farts and sulfur. I’ve purged the keg numerous times and it goes away for a bit but then keeps coming back. I’m on the verge of dumping the keg. I will not be doing this again.
Thats good to know. I had both in my cart for an order I was going to place this week. WIll take both out now.
 
Thats good to know. I had both in my cart for an order I was going to place this week. WIll take both out now.
To be fair, other people have had great success using them. For whatever reason though it didn’t work for me. I read somewhere that if there is no oxygen present to be scavenged by the smb, then the sulfur smell is definitely going to happen. I am not sure if this is at all correct, but it would make sense as to why it happened to me as I am pretty meticulous about oxygen ingress in my processes.
 
Interesting...I don’t have any copper wire but I could definitely get some. Perhaps I’ll give it a shot because it’s an otherwise pretty good beer. How long do you think I should swirl it?
I’m not sure exactly how long but 30 seconds or so should be sufficient
 
interesting about citric acid and AA. what dosage do you use for the two of them?

I use 0.5g ascorbic acid per 10L.
That is the recommended dosage on the package.

I use 0.25g citric acid per 10L. That is just my own guess. I might adjust this later.

Thats good to know. I had both in my cart for an order I was going to place this week. WIll take both out now.

I will definitely recommend you to try at least the ascorbic acid. It is very effective against oxygen. And the taste blends fine into a neipa. It is just vitamin C and the dosage is low.
 
I use 0.5g ascorbic acid per 10L.
That is the recommended dosage on the package.

I use 0.25g citric acid per 10L. That is just my own guess. I might adjust this later.



I will definitely recommend you to try at least the ascorbic acid. It is very effective against oxygen. And the taste blends fine into a neipa. It is just vitamin C and the dosage is low.
Cool, I'll try that at least. I'm like yourself being pretty meticulous about o2 pick up. I could do without the sulphur smell.
 
I’m currently enjoying a piña colada neipa. I usually do a first DH around day 5/tail end of ferm with 2 oz of cryo hops to reduce polyphenol interactions with the yeast over the next 8 days or so and not scrub off too much hop aromatics. I then do another 3-4 oz pellet hop/cryo after a soft crash to 56F at day 13, then cold crash to 32F for a week. The TDH is usually 1oz cryo and 2oz pellets in the keg and I bring the keg up to 56F for 24hrs, flipping the keg once in a while. My goal is roughly a 50:50 cryo:pellet ratio and it’s really solved my issues with hop bite on heavily dry hopped IPAs by reducing the amount of vegetative matter/polyphenols.
I started adding 0.3g Ascorbic Acid and 0.2g Sodium MetabiSulfate to all my beers after a weird scenario where a split batch had one ipa turn out fine and the other keg oxidized quickly following seemingly similar protocols. On 13 batches since using AA/SMS of IPAs, stouts, and ciders I’ve never detected a sulfur smell. I’m also meticulous about limiting cold side O2 ingress with flooding, purging, closed loop transfers, etc.
My IPAs last about 1-2 months in the keg and the last pour has the same color, aroma, and flavor. Maybe even a little hop boost since my floating filter is pulling beer right off the bed of hops.
My process is almost always a 2 week ferment(Kviek is 1 week) followed by a 1 week cold crash, then about 5 days to carbonate. My IPAs typically hit their stride with optimal flavor and aroma about 10 days to 2 weeks in the keg.
 

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To be fair, other people have had great success using them. For whatever reason though it didn’t work for me. I read somewhere that if there is no oxygen present to be scavenged by the smb, then the sulfur smell is definitely going to happen. I am not sure if this is at all correct, but it would make sense as to why it happened to me as I am pretty meticulous about oxygen ingress in my processes.

How much did you add?
 
0.3 grams

I have heard not to add SMB post fermentation typically. I am also pretty careful about oxygen ingress, but in a homebrew setting it is really tough to avoid.

But with all the talk about it I decided to try it with my last dry hop and there was no detrimental affect. The beer is actually quite good. But I used very small amounts as I was really concerned about turning it into a sulfur fart bomb :)

.07g SMB
.07g Ascorbic Acid

This was added to 6 gallons of beer in the fermenter with the dry hop.
 
I am just making first NEIPA, quite a palaver (all my own fault), . But wondering when to do first dry hop using Kveik at 35 celsius under 4 psi now and SG is 1.006 approx according to ispindel 42 hours in. Not much surface bubbling to be seen.
Of note this is based on the Fitbits recipe so I'm using glucoamylase in the fermenter so expecting to go to 1.000.
They suggest first dry hop at 1.005 but that's for a 20 celsius ferment using london III.
I'm thinking the hopping schedule will be a bit shorter with these temps?
But should I still drop the first lot in, let it get to 1.000 and then chill to 16 celsius and drop the next hops for another 4 days then cold crash. I'm going to let the pressure rise to 25 psi if it will get there at this stage with the remaining ferment.
It'll need a bit more CO2 once crashed and after transfer.
 
I just brewed my first Kviek NEIPA and it turned out great. Fermenting at 95F I reached 1-2 P from terminal gravity in two days and added my first DH with some moderate yeast activity. I did a a soft crash to 56F at day 6 and DDH for 24 hrs. You don’t need to go longer and in fact you will reach max polyphenol extraction at 72 hrs or less. So to avoid that hop “bite” shoot for a shorter DH time. That’s why I use mostly cryo hops for the initial DH to minimize the polyphenol load.
Check this out.
http://scottjanish.com/a-case-for-short-and-cool-dry-hopping/This guy’s book, The New IPA, was a game changer for how I DH and the resultant smooth hop flavors with stand out aromas.
 
@CrookedElbowBrewing
Thanks I have added the first hops and will let it naturally fall over the next few days, should get those final gravity points with the enzyme and the diastase in the hops.
I'll cool it if it hasn't made it on day 6 and then do the next hops.

Fingers crossed.
 
Question for you. Is your goal of a terminal gravity of 1.000 based on a beer recipe/clone you’re trying to brew? It just seems really dry for a neipa. Lots of brewers mash high or add lactose to create additional mouthfeel in their NEIPAs. 1.000 seems more like a Brut IPA TG. Just curious.
 
@CrookedElbowBrewing

It's a variation of Weldwerks Fitbits that is brewed dry and then back sweetened with Monk fruit extract to " regain " the body. So yes without that it would be a hazy Brut IPA I suppose.
Just fancied the challenge really. Start hard and learn quickly.
Have done a Brut IPA about 18 months ago and that was interesting. Just citra and Sauvin hops. Was deadly stuff really came out very alcoholic and changed a lot. On draft was really good but after about 3 months in the bottle it nearly tasted like sparkling Sauvignon Blanc.
Might have a go at one of those again in the future but we're heading into colder times down here so probably get some winter ales and big stouts as my next challenge.
 
My goal is roughly a 50:50 cryo : pellet ratio and it’s really solved my issues with hop bite on heavily dry hopped IPAs by reducing the amount of vegetative matter/polyphenols.

I am still new to Cryo. Do we expect anything gained from mixing Cryo and T90? Compared to pure Cryo?
 
I am still new to Cryo. Do we expect anything gained from mixing Cryo and T90? Compared to pure Cryo?
I'd say so. All of the pure cryo beers I have had have been lacking, and they were made by very good producers of haze. They lacked body, and depth of hop character. I have had some exceptional beers that utilise both formats in combination.
 
Brewed up a batch this weekend as mentioned in an earlier post, I do 15gal batches and despite a couple minor setbacks I have high hopes for this one. Put my water together friday night and woke up at 6am to turn the kettles on (spike eherms system) then went back to bed due to slightly hungover... ooops. I knew I had a good hour though. So I get back up and we are approaching mash in temps so I start crushing grains, forgot to change out my bucket under my mill, homemade motorized mill that will hold about 20lb in the hopper which fills the bucket to the top, made a mess as I was crushing a total of 38lbs, ughh, moving on. Got that straightened out and started mashing in, PH was 5.28 @ 70f about 15 to 20 minutes into the mash. My head started to clear around mash out and I had all my ducks in a row, preboil gravity was within .002 of target so all that went well. Hops were simcoe, mosaic, and azacca, with mosaic taking the lead. Fermenting with a built up 2nd gen of imperial A38 plus a pack of us05 to help with attenuation, my first time doing this so its a bit of an experiment. Fermentation kicked off within a couple hours and has been ripping since.
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Cheers!
 
I have an extra CO2 line in my keezer for purging bottles before filling them off of my flow control taps. Basically when you get a crowler fill at a taproom you can see them purge/flood the can with CO2 prior to filling off the tap, then they cap on the foam. There was a research study referred to in Scott Janish’s book I believe that showed flooding your fermenter from the top with CO2 after dry hopping helped reduce oxidation of IPAs. I’ve also bubbled CO2 into my fermenter from the bottom port and then out the blow off tube but flooding from the top is easier. If there’s still yeast activity it’s value is debatable but if you’re opening up at the end of fermentation you need to purge the O2 out.
The drop in freezer I ferment in is full to the rim with CO2 a few days into fermentation so opening my lid to add hops has minimal O2 ingress, but I still flood the headspace anyway.
 
Cryo hop use is covered thoroughly by Janish. The brewers that he interviewed that experimented with it’s use generally agreed that 100% cryo hopped beers were one dimensional with aroma being the prominent factor. They also complained of a grittiness in the 100% cryo-hopped beer that could only be resolved with a centrifuge. The T90 pellets brought in another dimension of hop flavor/juiciness that cryo alone lacked. They found that around a 50/50 ratio of cryo/T90 provided the best balance of hop aroma and flavor. Just remember that the cryo hops are concentrated so you’ll use 1/2 as much compared to T90 pellets. I’ve been trying to hit a 50/50 ratio on all of my IPAs for the past year and it’s not always possible because not everything is available in cryo pellets but it has made a significant difference in flavor /aroma and eliminated my issues with hop bite on the finish. I typically TDH with a total of 10-12oz pellet equivalents for 6G, with the last 3-4oz in the keg. The keg TDH is always 1oz cryo with 1-2 oz T90 pellets.
 
Jumping back to the ascorbic acid, I am interested in giving this a go. Am I ok to add it when I dry hop?Typically 3 days before kegging and around say 50f to 55f.
I’ve only read about it being used at bottling/kegging so that’s where I’ve used it. I think adding it with your DH just a few days before kegging should be fine.
 
Just an update on my now becoming a Brute of a NEIPA, noticed the ispindel had stopped sending signals. Went and had a look and the damm thing had sunk.
Now it's acting as a nice little partial obstruction to the outflow on the fermentasaurus and making it difficult to get the yeast out.

Must find a 3d printed solid lid for the petlings to prevent this problem and mitigate the changes that occur with pressure. Think that the hot temps of kveik ferment at 35 celsius might not have helped.
 
I have heard not to add SMB post fermentation typically. I am also pretty careful about oxygen ingress, but in a homebrew setting it is really tough to avoid.

But with all the talk about it I decided to try it with my last dry hop and there was no detrimental affect. The beer is actually quite good. But I used very small amounts as I was really concerned about turning it into a sulfur fart bomb :)

.07g SMB
.07g Ascorbic Acid

This was added to 6 gallons of beer in the fermenter with the dry hop.
OK Im curious about these SMB and ascorbic acid additions for the cold side. Ive noted, after brewing for a little over a year, that my IPAs generally last 1-3 months in the keg. They peak at around 10-21 days on average, depending on ABV it seems, and then maintain very well until around the 2 month mark. After 2 months, I generally start noticing aroma fading but the color and flavor are still solid. Then closer toward the 2.5-3month mark I notice the flavor not as bright, but again still pretty good. So Im pretty happy with the shelf life of my kegged IPAs, but I know that oxidation at any rate does occur even with best practices in minimizing O2 ingress. So can anyone here comment on whether these SMB and ascorbic acid contributions on the cold side actually extend the shelf life and/or allow for the "peak" flavors or aromas to last longer than 2 months? Again, after 2 months is when I definitely notice some changes to start, but even at 3 months the beers are still pretty good, not blatantly oxidized/brown, but clearly past their peak. If there are any links to this cold side practice, Id love to read them. Might have to revisit Jannish's book if theres anything in that book on this topic.
 
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