New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Dgallo]

Lol just wanted to share a picture of the next generation hop head admiring his dad’s homebrew

 

[secretlevel]

Just finished my first ever NEIPA, pretty similar to OPs updated/edited third version. I did my water profile slightly different and at times it tasted a little minerally (maybe chalky?). It was still fantastic and lasted less than two weeks in the keg. Hazy and VERY fruity. My daughter said the room smelled like mango juice when I was kegging it. Success! Exceeded my expectations, but to be honest I don't have access to very many of these. Mine came out a tiny bit darker than I had hoped but I am limited with my equipment, so still happy.

Here is a picture of it...

Well done. The only way from here is up!

Something that worked for me before closed transfers is using fermenters with a spigot. Cold crash, open once to dry hop and eventually transfer into a purged keg using that spigot. Crack the keg lid slightly, put the hose all the way to the bottom and transfer. Be sure to purge the keg a bunch after this.

Another thing you can do is use a mylar balloon on your airlock to prevent O2 ingress during cold crash but I never had issues without one. Finally, I've sometimes added a the dry hop to keg in a muslin bag + non-flavored floss.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Lol just wanted to share a picture of the next generation hop head admiring his dad’s homebrew View attachment 699253

I know kid, the glow is mesmerizing isn't it? Its like looking into a crystal ball for the answers to life. and when your daddy drinks enough "crystal balls" he does have all the answers to life! lol

 

[tld6008]

I know kid, the glow is mesmerizing isn't it? Its like looking into a crystal ball for the answers to life. and when your daddy drinks enough "crystal balls" he does have all the answers to life! lol

Mesmerized is exactly what came to my mind when I saw that photo....aside from the tasty looking beer.

 

[nebulabrewing]

Brewed my house hazy, but switched up the hop schedules.

Motueka, Columbus, Galaxy, and Sabro. London Ale iii.

 

[anteater8]

What would be your recommends for hop combinations for a crowd pleaser and local competition NEIPA award winner? (Boil, WP and DH)

1. OP's recipe
2. CTZ at 60 min to 30 IBU, 2 oz each Citra/Mosaic/Idaho 7 in the whirlpool and dry hop
3. CTZ at 60 min to 30 IBU, 3 oz each Citra/Mosaic in the whirlpool, 4 oz citra 3 oz amarillo and 1 oz galaxy dry hop
4. Trillium Melcher Street clone: American IPA - Trilium Melcher Street Clone

 

[wepeeler]

1. OP's recipe
2. CTZ at 60 min to 30 IBU, 2 oz each Citra/Mosaic/Idaho 7 in the whirlpool and dry hop
3. CTZ at 60 min to 30 IBU, 3 oz each Citra/Mosaic in the whirlpool, 4 oz citra 3 oz amarillo and 1 oz galaxy dry hop
4. Trillium Melcher Street clone: American IPA - Trilium Melcher Street Clone

Personally I think 30 IBU at 60 is a bit much. You can get more complex flavors by adding more hops throughout the boil.

A lot of people here have been skipping the 60 min addition with good success. I finally tried it with my last all Citra neipa and the bitterness is still there, but it's much softer. 30 min addition 15ish IBU, 15 min addition 9ish IBU, 5 min addition 7ish IBU. HUGE WP at 180 for 20 min 30ish IBU. All IBU calculated via Beersmith so take that how you want. BS says I'm getting 60.8 IBU total. It's definitely not a bitter bomb. Super soft and balanced. Loving it so far.

 

[ShaLaH]

I'm curious if anyone acidifies their wort post-boil? I've been doing Sours lately which require this and was wondering if there's an optimal wort ph prior to fermenting and dry hopping for NE IPA's.

 

[Dgallo]

I'm curious if anyone acidifies their wort post-boil? I've been doing Sours lately which require this and was wondering if there's an optimal wort ph prior to fermenting and dry hopping for NE IPA's.

I can’t fully speak on this but I’ve been trying to get my post boil ph down to 5.0-5.1.

the only time for sours I preacidify to 4.5-4.6 is when I’m using grain, stick, or anything like that. If I’m pitching proper pitch rate cultures I don’t bother

 

[ShaLaH]

I can’t fully speak on this but I’ve been trying to get my post boil ph down to 5.0-5.1.

the only time for sours I preacidify to 4.5-4.6 is when I’m using grain, stick, or anything like that. If I’m pitching proper pitch rate cultures I don’t bother

Are you doing Kettle Sours? I've been doing Co-Pitch Sours, so I add LAB before I add Sacch yeast. Lowering the ph to 4.5 prior to pitching LAB inhibits unwanted bacterial growth since it may be a couple days before I add my primary yeast.

Are you using lactic or phosphoric acid to get down to 5.0-5.1?

 

[Dgallo]

Are you doing Kettle Sours? I've been doing Co-Pitch Sours, so I add LAB before I add Sacch yeast. Lowering the ph to 4.5 prior to pitching LAB inhibits unwanted bacterial growth since it may be a couple days before I add my primary yeast.

Are you using lactic or phosphoric acid to get down to 5.0-5.1?

I personally use lactic acid but either will work. And no, I do not kettle sour, I also co pitch. If I’m using solely lacto tO sour I’ll actually Pitch my sac first so I can get some yeast character in the beer and will pitch the lacto 36-48 hours after. Lacto only typically eats less that 5 GU points on its own so I don’t find the need to pitch it first. Idk if you’ve followed this thread but it’s got some solid info Fast Souring - Modern Methods

 

[anteater8]

Personally I think 30 IBU at 60 is a bit much. You can get more complex flavors by adding more hops throughout the boil.

A lot of people here have been skipping the 60 min addition with good success. I finally tried it with my last all Citra neipa and the bitterness is still there, but it's much softer. 30 min addition 15ish IBU, 15 min addition 9ish IBU, 5 min addition 7ish IBU. HUGE WP at 180 for 20 min 30ish IBU. All IBU calculated via Beersmith so take that how you want. BS says I'm getting 60.8 IBU total. It's definitely not a bitter bomb. Super soft and balanced. Loving it so far.

View attachment 699489

Very good points, I shared those specific combos because they are the ones that have won me medals. I actually have since dialed my 60 min addition down to 20 IBU and I like the difference, although both have been good. I think there's definitely something to be said for layering hop flavor throughout the boil as well.

 

[ShaLaH]

I personally use lactic acid but either will work. And no, I do not kettle sour, I also co pitch. If I’m using solely lacto tO sour I’ll actually Pitch my sac first so I can get some yeast character in the beer and will pitch the lacto 36-48 hours after. Lacto only typically eats less that 5 GU points on its own so I don’t find the need to pitch it first. Idk if you’ve followed this thread but it’s got some solid info Fast Souring - Modern Methods

Yes, that thread is amazing. For my next sour, I'm gonna flip it as you suggest and pitch Sacch first then LAB.

 

[wepeeler]

Very good points, I shared those specific combos because they are the ones that have won me medals. I actually have since dialed my 60 min addition down to 20 IBU and I like the difference, although both have been good. I think there's definitely something to be said for layering hop flavor throughout the boil as well.

Gotcha. I used to shoot for 20 at 60 as well. I've been doing that for close to 4 years. After my last batch, I'm going to experiment with no 60 and more throughout the boil. The layers of flavors that come through are mindblowing.

 

[R.A.I.D]

I ferment in a keg and transfer the beer to another keg with dry hop after soft crash.

I have 2 approaches for preparing the dry hop keg:

1) Put the hops in the dry hop keg at fermentation start and attach the dry hop keg to the fermentation keg so all co2 from the fermentation is purging the dry hop keg completly. Closed transfer to dry hop keg. The system remains closed until the end of dry hopping. Disadvantage is that the dry hopping hops are stored at fermentation temperatures throughout the fermentation. With the risk of aroma evaporating from the hops.

2) Wait until the fermentation is complete. Prepare the dry hop keg by filling it with water or starsan and emptying it with co2. Then opening the keg and add the dry hops. This approach has the risk of introducing oxygen together with the dry hops. I can create a positive pressure with co2 while opening the keg, but the risk of introducing oxygen is still there as I see it. But this approach has the advantage that I can store the hops cold until I start dry hopping.

Thoughts?

 

[Fergal]

you’re now the 3rd person I’ve heard say good things about Ekuanot in a lager...

I find this interesting as Ekuanot always has this really strong green pepper/herbal/vegetal character that I don’t like.

Does it not present like that in lagers? Does lager yeast transform that compound I wonder?

Another data point for Ekuanot in a pilsner! It certainly does have a pepper note but it works very well. My wife reckons its kind of like the way rocket/arugula is peppery which lines up perfectly with what you said you don't like!

 

[R.A.I.D]

@ttuato and others that saw a post I made this past summer about a keg dropping completely clear. My first theory was using malted wheat verse my traditional bill. Then I started to think it was due to moving my keg in the car to the bev center to can, theory was that the proteins that flocced got resuspended and attracted more proteins to them and dropped more out. This theory seemed like a stretch but this weekend I moved a keg of a sour double ipa and just took my first pour from it since then and it is absolutely clear. Looks like resuspending trub can cause a beer to drop clear.

+1 for this theory. My last NEIPA (Trillium Street clone with S-04 yeast) stayed clear for weeks until I transported the keg. Then it started to clear.

 

[marjen]

So I have a question. It seems no matter what yeast I use I always finish around 1.007 to 1.010. Usually use WY 1318 but also used Kviek, lalbrew New England, imperial juice and dryhop. Maybe my tilt is a little off but seeing how others tend to end higher wondering what’s going on.

also for those that can pressurize their ferm tank. I let my fermentation go for 4 days. Went from 1.061 to 1.007. I then closed the valve as I raised temps from 68 to 72. About 36 hrs later it’s still reading 1.007 but pressure rose to 8 psi. I thought pressure only rose if gravity dropped?

 

[nebulabrewing]

So I have a question. It seems no matter what yeast I use I always finish around 1.007 to 1.010. Usually use WY 1318 but also used Kviek, lalbrew New England, imperial juice and dryhop. Maybe my tilt is a little off but seeing how others tend to end higher wondering what’s going on.

also for those that can pressurize their ferm tank. I let my fermentation go for 4 days. Went from 1.061 to 1.007. I then closed the valve as I raised temps from 68 to 72. About 36 hrs later it’s still reading 1.007 but pressure rose to 8 psi. I thought pressure only rose if gravity dropped?

What temps are you fermenting at? Are you verifying your readings with hydrometer readings alongside the Tilt?

 

[marjen]

I usually mash around 148-152.
I have not compared tilt to hydrometer recently but have in the past and they looked pretty good.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

I ferment in a keg and transfer the beer to another keg with dry hop after soft crash.

I have 2 approaches for preparing the dry hop keg:

1) Put the hops in the dry hop keg at fermentation start and attach the dry hop keg to the fermentation keg so all co2 from the fermentation is purging the dry hop keg completly. Closed transfer to dry hop keg. The system remains closed until the end of dry hopping. Disadvantage is that the dry hopping hops are stored at fermentation temperatures throughout the fermentation. With the risk of aroma evaporating from the hops.

2) Wait until the fermentation is complete. Prepare the dry hop keg by filling it with water or starsan and emptying it with co2. Then opening the keg and add the dry hops. This approach has the risk of introducing oxygen together with the dry hops. I can create a positive pressure with co2 while opening the keg, but the risk of introducing oxygen is still there as I see it. But this approach has the advantage that I can store the hops cold until I start dry hopping.

Thoughts?

I used to do method #2(and still do once in awhile when I don't have a free keg to dry hop), but now almost always do method #1. I think at least for ultra hopped beers the O2 minimization is worth having the hops sit at non-fridge temps for a week. I do the positive pressure thing on method #2, the problem with kegs is since they open inward you can't really turn the gas on until after you crack it. This probably works better on conicals with outward opening ports.

 

[R.A.I.D]

I thought pressure only rose if gravity dropped?

Heating a sealed container with liquid will also Increase the pressure inside the container.

 

[BeerFst]

I used to do method #2(and still do once in awhile when I don't have a free keg to dry hop), but now almost always do method #1. I think at least for ultra hopped beers the O2 minimization is worth having the hops sit at non-fridge temps for a week. I do the positive pressure thing on method #2, the problem with kegs is since they open inward you can't really turn the gas on until after you crack it. This probably works better on conicals with outward opening ports.

turn on gas, Pull PRV, rotate ring 90 degrees so that it stays open, push corny lid in. I only have ball locks, so if you have pin, perhaps this doesnt work

 

[VirginiaHops1]

turn on gas, Pull PRV, rotate ring 90 degrees so that it stays open, push corny lid in. I only have ball locks, so if you have pin, perhaps this doesnt work

Yeah I ferment in pin locks and use ball locks for my serving kegs. I have replaced a couple of the pin lock lids so they now have the manual PRV but back when I was doing it that way I didn't. Good suggestion though

 

[secretlevel]

I recently attended virtual YCH Sensory class on evaluating experimental hops and have a a few of various hops leftover. Has anyone brewed with these or have any good ideas for styles to use them in?

HBC 522 10.2% Alpha
HBC 472 9% Alpha - woody, earthy, vanilla flavors
HBC 630 13.4% Alpha - Cherry, mandarin flavors, maybe DH or WP addition?
HBC 692 7.3% aka Talus

 

[Dgallo]

Just wanted to inform everyone that Yakima Valley Hops has finally stocked 2020 Riwaka. If you haven’t used this hop yet, I highly suggest doing so. Adds some beautiful tropical, grapefruit and earthy notes. It really brings some great complexity to a beer.

 

[MrPowers]

Just wanted to inform everyone that Yakima Valley Hops has finally stocked 2020 Riwaka. If you haven’t used this hop yet, I highly suggest doing so. Adds some beautiful tropical, grapefruit and earthy notes. It really brings some great complexity to a beer.

Thanks for the heads up! I just ordered a pound along with some Citra. I've been wanting to give them a try.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Just wanted to inform everyone that Yakima Valley Hops has finally stocked 2020 Riwaka. If you haven’t used this hop yet, I highly suggest doing so. Adds some beautiful tropical, grapefruit and earthy notes. It really brings some great complexity to a beer.View attachment 699797

Yup I’m pretty pumped to finally get to try these. Was looking on YVH site yesterday and I saw 2020 Riwaka posted but showed “out of stock” so I knew it was getting close. Got some on the way

 

[Dgallo]

Yup I’m pretty pumped to finally get to try these. Was looking on YVH site yesterday and I saw 2020 Riwaka posted but showed “out of stock” so I knew it was getting close. Got some on the way

I think you’ll love it. It’s also great in a Pilsner

 

[crusader1612]

I recently attended virtual YCH Sensory class on evaluating experimental hops and have a a few of various hops leftover. Has anyone brewed with these or have any good ideas for styles to use them in?

HBC 522 10.2% Alpha
HBC 472 9% Alpha - woody, earthy, vanilla flavors
HBC 630 13.4% Alpha - Cherry, mandarin flavors, maybe DH or WP addition?
HBC 692 7.3% aka Talus

I brewed a porter with 472.
Great hop, tropical fruit and citrus with that vanilla and earthy woody note.