New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[HopsAreGood]

New post from Scott Janish discussing in detail the "Survivables" concept that Yakima Chief talks about in their presentations: Survivables: Unpacking Hot-Side Hop Flavor - Scott Janish

Helps a lot in knowing which hops are more useful in whirlpool and mid ferm dry hop vs which hops should be used in the post ferm dry hop.

This is a bit independent from the discussions of to what extend whirlpool hops are useful, wherein I start to lean more towards moving more hops to the dry hop. But even then it's still nice to know which hops will give the most effect in the whirlpool.

Great read. Question...am I the only one that is seeing “CIT” on the survivables graph where he’s saying it’s columbus? I-7, mosaic, bravo, then it looks like Citra to me, but he’s saying Columbus.

 

[isomerization]

Great article. Well worth the read.

Fascinatingly complex subject. Couple that with studies that show that concentration can also effect quality of aroma (herbal/tea overpowering citrus at very high concentrations).

Impact of static dry-hopping rate on the sensory and analytical profiles of beer

I feel like a broken record on this subject, but note that the study you linked only used Cascade. As the very cool Yakima Chief study (summarized excellently by Janish) showed, there is quite a wide range in hop oil profiles across different hop cultivars!

 

[secretlevel]

My Imperial A24 dry hop has been over-attenuating lately. On the most recent batch I got:
OG: 1.071
FG: 1.010
85% attenuation
154F mash temp
A24 0.5L starter for 4 gallons, pitched at 68, fermented at 72-73F.

I'm planning on mashing at 160F so I can have a bit of body and end up at 1.020 FG next time, does anyone else do this? What's the highest FG that you guys have gotten?

I'm also getting a fresh pack of A24 to see if that makes a difference.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

My Imperial A24 dry hop has been over-attenuating lately. On the most recent batch I got:
OG: 1.071
FG: 1.010
85% attenuation
154F mash temp
A24 0.5L starter for 4 gallons, pitched at 68, fermented at 72-73F.

I'm planning on mashing at 160F so I can have a bit of body and end up at 1.020 FG next time, does anyone else do this? What's the highest FG that you guys have gotten?

I'm also getting a fresh pack of A24 to see if that makes a difference.

Interesting, when I was mashing at 152 with A24 as the yeast I was routinely finishing at 1.011-1.012. I upped the mash to 154 ever since and with an OG of 1.069-1.072 I always have been hitting 1.014 as the FG. Not sure whats the cause of this for you though. Are you confident of your mash temps hitting 154 and not a bit lower?

 

[Fergal]

My Imperial A24 dry hop has been over-attenuating lately. On the most recent batch I got:
OG: 1.071
FG: 1.010
85% attenuation
154F mash temp
A24 0.5L starter for 4 gallons, pitched at 68, fermented at 72-73F.

I'm planning on mashing at 160F so I can have a bit of body and end up at 1.020 FG next time, does anyone else do this? What's the highest FG that you guys have gotten?

I'm also getting a fresh pack of A24 to see if that makes a difference.

Hop Creep?

 

[Dgallo]

My Imperial A24 dry hop has been over-attenuating lately. On the most recent batch I got:
OG: 1.071
FG: 1.010
85% attenuation
154F mash temp
A24 0.5L starter for 4 gallons, pitched at 68, fermented at 72-73F.

I'm planning on mashing at 160F so I can have a bit of body and end up at 1.020 FG next time, does anyone else do this? What's the highest FG that you guys have gotten?

I'm also getting a fresh pack of A24 to see if that makes a difference.

i would say you’re experiencing hop creep. For reverence, I’ve used this A24 for easily 20+ batches and the max I’ve ever gotten was 79% at 150*f mash temp. At 154 I’m usually at 74 and haven’t been higher than 76%.

hop creep is the best answer. If it’s not hop creep, it could be an infection of a yeast that has the STA1 gene, wild or from a previous batch(could be in the fv or starter equipment) or a bacteria infection but you typically would’ve able to pick that out in the flavor. or it could be as easy as your thermometer failing. My thermometer actually just failed 2 days ago. I was using my wort chiller and kept checking the temp of the wort and it it wouldn’t fall below 93. After an hour I knew something was up so I check the prob in a Cup of ice water and it was reading 77. Just something to check

 

[Dgallo]

New post from Scott Janish discussing in detail the "Survivables" concept that Yakima Chief talks about in their presentations: Survivables: Unpacking Hot-Side Hop Flavor - Scott Janish

Helps a lot in knowing which hops are more useful in whirlpool and mid ferm dry hop vs which hops should be used in the post ferm dry hop.

This is a bit independent from the discussions of to what extend whirlpool hops are useful, wherein I start to lean more towards moving more hops to the dry hop. But even then it's still nice to know which hops will give the most effect in the whirlpool.

I don’t disagree with this info but take some of the big name breweries with some of the OG Alchemist, Lawson’s, and Russian River and now more relevant, Tree house (whom some consider the best) they are huge about using hotside hops. I read a quote from Kimmich recently where he said that heady topper is dryhopped with the equivalent of less than 4.5oz for a 5 gallon batch. I think hoping hotside vs. cold side has a lot to do with process and water chem verse blanket statesments of which is better, hit a cold hopping

 

[stickyfinger]

I was doing an extreme experiment with Dryhop trying for a very low abv neipa. Mashed at 170! 1.058 og. Fermented out and hit 1.035 for 2.9% abv! Chilled to 34F for two days. Warmed up to 70 to dry hop. Added dry hops and yeast kicked into overdrive due to massive hop creep. It actually started swirling currents of yeast and CO2 again like a fresh wort! Dropped it down to 1.010-1.011. I bet you have hop creep.

My Imperial A24 dry hop has been over-attenuating lately. On the most recent batch I got:
OG: 1.071
FG: 1.010
85% attenuation
154F mash temp
A24 0.5L starter for 4 gallons, pitched at 68, fermented at 72-73F.

I'm planning on mashing at 160F so I can have a bit of body and end up at 1.020 FG next time, does anyone else do this? What's the highest FG that you guys have gotten?

I'm also getting a fresh pack of A24 to see if that makes a difference.

 

[Rainy]

I don’t disagree with this info but take some of the big name breweries with some of the OG Alchemist, Lawson’s, and Russian River and now more relevant, Tree house (whom some consider the best) they are huge about using hotside hops. I read a quote from Kimmich recently where he said that heady topper is dryhopped with the equivalent of less than 4.5oz for a 5 gallon batch. I think hoping hotside vs. cold side has a lot to do with process and water chem verse blanket statesments of which is better, hit a cold hopping

I totally agree that it's not as clear cut as "more hops to the cold side" and that it's also depending on personal taste and the rest of your process.

Personally, I often find myself fighting with polyphenol astringency when adding too much hops in total to the beer. So I sort of have a maximum of hops I can put in total in the beer and then the question is how to divide those between whirlpool, mid ferm dry hop (which I stopped doing) and cold ferm dry hop.
I like more the raw hoppiness ("survivables" + less soluble non polar compounds ?) vs the generic fruitiness (coming from the "survivables" ?) of a hop addition, so moving the balance to more dry hop (and in general removing plant matter by using partly cryo) made sense to me.
To put things in perspective, I put around 1 pound per barrel or 4g/l in the whirlpool which is what a lot of professional brewers are doing. (1-2 pound per barrel in the whirlpool), My dryhop addition is then 2-3 times the amount from the whirlpool.

But I definitely agree that in the end it's all about the synergy of all your additions.

If you look at what's happening to the compounds, they indeed bring different things to the table
Whirlpool: non-polar compounds (e.g. myrcene) driven off + some hop compounds (e.g. geraniol) get biotransformed
=> survivables + biotransformation products from survivables (+polyphenols) stay in the beer
post ferm dry hop: mainly dissolving the original hop compounds into a mixture of water and alcohol
=> survivables + some of the non-soluble compounds (+polyphenols) stay in the beer

And indeed which compounds get extracted and stay in the final beer depends greatly on the specifics of both processes (whirlpool temp/time, dry hop temp/time, dry hop method (agitation vs no agitation), hop product (T90 vs cryo), soft crashing, conditioning time/temp) and what happened before the whirlpool (general recipe: protein content, ABV, yeast choice)

At least, that is how I understand it.

I read in an earlier post about your "all hops in dry hop" and "all hops in whirlpool" beers that you made to get a better idea of what both addition bring to the beer.
Did you see anything confirming the assumption that whirlpool hops bring a more generic fruitiness to the beer which is great as a base for the more raw hop character of the post ferm dry hop to interact with?

 

[Northern_Brewer]

My Imperial A24 dry hop has been over-attenuating lately. ....

I'm also getting a fresh pack of A24 to see if that makes a difference.

So you've been repitching A24? Given it's a blend of a Conan and A20 Citrus, which is their version of Sacc Trois, aren't you just seeing the blend skew with repitching? Imperial list the attenuation of A20 as 74-78%, but all the Sacc Trois are STA1+ and White Labs list the attenuation of WLP644 as 85-85%, so I suspect that's all you're seeing.

 

[secretlevel]

So you've been repitching A24? Given it's a blend of a Conan and A20 Citrus, which is their version of Sacc Trois, aren't you just seeing the blend skew with repitching? Imperial list the attenuation of A20 as 74-78%, but all the Sacc Trois are STA1+ and White Labs list the attenuation of WLP644 as 85-85%, so I suspect that's all you're seeing.

I have... I learned the lesson not to decant a while back, so I've just been setting aside a little from the stir plate and pitching the rest. The logic does make sense...

Thanks everyone. This could be a number of factors, I usually try to measure my gravity before the dry hop, but I think I slacked this time. Also my thermometer died last weekend on the next brew, so I'm curious if it was mis-calibrated even before that.

 

[Steven Barrett]

On the subject of bitterness, I was drinking a NEIPA that I wished had more “assertiveness” for lack of a better word. I know pillowy softness and crushability are hallmarks of the style but I personally found this beer lacking. Maybe it was bitterness or possibly body. Has anyone else experienced this?

 

[Homergah]

On the subject of bitterness, I was drinking a NEIPA that I wished had more “assertiveness” for lack of a better word. I know pillowy softness and crushability are hallmarks of the style but I personally found this beer lacking. Maybe it was bitterness or possibly body. Has anyone else experienced this?

Yes. On about 90 percent of the commercial NEIPA's that I get. Even well established commercial breweries struggle with the style.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

Ever have a particularly active/aggressive fermentation spill some krausen (might be using the wrong terminology here) into the dry hop keg? If not, would that be a concern were it to happen?

This doesn't typically happen to me but on my current fermentation with K-97(first time using it) it must've been hella aggressive because I see some krausen in the jumper going to dry hop keg. Doesn't concern me though. Don't see how it would adversely affect my dry hop and I'll be transferring again to a serving keg.

 

[aaronm13]

That's a real coincidence in relation to the topic of Imperial Dry Hop as I managed to get my hands on some today and was wondering how it behaved as I've never used it before. London Fog has been my house yeast for a lot of brews now but want to try something different. I know exactly what to expect with London Fog but this is interesting in the different performance in A24. I like all my DIPAs to finish around 1.020 and according to Beersmith if I mash at 154 I'll get a FG of 1.017. It's a bit low but don't really want to mash any higher till I get used to the strain.

Is 154 a safe bet to start off mashing with this strain? Also I usually overbuild my starters and pour into a mason jar. Will this be ok in relation to it being a blend? I did read somewhere before but cannot find it now where someone mailed Imperial and they replied saying this was ok to do. I slant all my strains but I take it slanting a blend is a waste as you don't know what strain and what proportion your're getting?

 

[secretlevel]

That's a real coincidence in relation to the topic of Imperial Dry Hop as I managed to get my hands on some today and was wondering how it behaved as I've never used it before. London Fog has been my house yeast for a lot of brews now but want to try something different. I know exactly what to expect with London Fog but this is interesting in the different performance in A24. I like all my DIPAs to finish around 1.020 and according to Beersmith if I mash at 154 I'll get a FG of 1.017. It's a bit low but don't really want to mash any higher till I get used to the strain.

Is 154 a safe bet to start off mashing with this strain? Also I usually overbuild my starters and pour into a mason jar. Will this be ok in relation to it being a blend? I did read somewhere before but cannot find it now where someone mailed Imperial and they replied saying this was ok to do. I slant all my strains but I take it slanting a blend is a waste as you don't know what strain and what proportion your're getting?

I think so, this yeast is similar to London Fog in attenuation so you should be safe doing what you were before. They both attenuate higher than London Ale III though, so I feel like I'm always pretty safe mashing 154-158. Then again, it all depends on what you like in your IPA's

 

[Willum]

​

I made a variation of the recipe in this post. It came out pretty good.

NEIPA V2

New England IPA
6.7% / 16.1 °P​

All Grain
BIAB (No sparge)

66% efficiency
Batch Volume: 2 gal
Boil Time: 60 min
Mash Water: 3.37 gal
Total Water: 3.37 gal
Boil Volume: 2.89 gal
Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.052​

Vitals

Original Gravity: 1.066
Final Gravity: 1.015
IBU (Tinseth): 53
Color: 4.8 SRM​

Mash

Temperature — 152 °F — 60 min​

Malts (5 lb 5.6 oz)

1 lb 13.1 oz (34%) — Simpsons Pale Ale Golden Promise — Grain — 2.4 °L
1 lb 13.1 oz (34%) — Viking Xtra Pale Malt — Grain — 1.8 °L
1 lb 1.1 oz (20%) — Rahr Wheat Malt White — Grain — 2.9 °L
8.6 oz (10%) — Briess Oats, Flaked — Grain — 1.6 °L
1.7 oz (2%) — Weyermann Acidulated — Grain — 1.9 °L​

Hops (4.97 oz)

0.16 oz (23 IBU) — Warrior 16.7% — Boil — 60 min
0.8 oz (9 IBU) — Citra 12.6% — Aroma — 20 min hopstand @ 170 °F
0.8 oz (12 IBU) — Galaxy 17% — Aroma — 20 min hopstand @ 170 °F
0.8 oz (8 IBU) — Mosaic 11.4% — Aroma — 20 min hopstand @ 170 °F
0.8 oz — Citra 12.6% — Dry Hop — 3 days
0.8 oz — Galaxy 17% — Dry Hop — 3 days
0.8 oz — Mosaic 11.4% — Dry Hop — 3 days

Hopstand at 170 °F​

Miscs

4 g — Calcium Chloride (CaCl2) — Mash
2 g — Gypsum (CaSO4) — Mash​

Yeast

1.3 pkg — Omega OYL-052 DIPA Ale​

Fermentation

Primary — 68 °F — 14 days
Carbonation: 2.4 CO2-vol​

Water Profile

Ca+2 104 Mg+2 0 Na+ 8 Cl- 131 SO4-2 75 HCO3- 16​

 

[Rob2010SS]

How fast do you guys turn this style out?

We're brewing one of these next. The original plan was to brew Friday (tomorrow) and have it ready to drink by 7/24. Running through the timeline, I felt it was pretty tight already. However, things have gotten screwed up and it would be better if I could brew on Saturday, with the goal of having it ready still by 7/24. The more I think about it, the more I think we COULD pull this off.

OG is 1.065, so not huge.

I'm fermenting in a unitank. I've never used the carb stone but I've read that you can carb in 24 hours or less using that. I'll have to do some more research on it.

I'm following the method of fermenting completely, soft crashing for 1-2 days, warm back up for dry hopping and do DH #1 (4) days before final cold crash and DH #2 (2) days before final cold crash.

So, my question:
Is it feasible to have this thing ready to drink by 7/24 if I brew on Saturday?

 

[Dgallo]

How fast do you guys turn this style out?

We're brewing one of these next. The original plan was to brew Friday (tomorrow) and have it ready to drink by 7/24. Running through the timeline, I felt it was pretty tight already. However, things have gotten screwed up and it would be better if I could brew on Saturday, with the goal of having it ready still by 7/24. The more I think about it, the more I think we COULD pull this off.

OG is 1.065, so not huge.

I'm fermenting in a unitank. I've never used the carb stone but I've read that you can carb in 24 hours or less using that. I'll have to do some more research on it.

I'm following the method of fermenting completely, soft crashing for 1-2 days, warm back up for dry hopping and do DH #1 (4) days before final cold crash and DH #2 (2) days before final cold crash.

So, my question:
Is it feasible to have this thing ready to drink by 7/24 if I brew on Saturday?

Yes. As long as you don’t get hop burn, you can easily be drinking it in 20 days.

 

[couchsending]

How fast do you guys turn this style out?

We're brewing one of these next. The original plan was to brew Friday (tomorrow) and have it ready to drink by 7/24. Running through the timeline, I felt it was pretty tight already. However, things have gotten screwed up and it would be better if I could brew on Saturday, with the goal of having it ready still by 7/24. The more I think about it, the more I think we COULD pull this off.

OG is 1.065, so not huge.

I'm fermenting in a unitank. I've never used the carb stone but I've read that you can carb in 24 hours or less using that. I'll have to do some more research on it.

I'm following the method of fermenting completely, soft crashing for 1-2 days, warm back up for dry hopping and do DH #1 (4) days before final cold crash and DH #2 (2) days before final cold crash.

So, my question:
Is it feasible to have this thing ready to drink by 7/24 if I brew on Saturday?

Depends on if you get any hop creep or not....

You can easily have this “ready” in 2 weeks if you’re using a Unitank and can carbonate in the tank. I’d dump as much as possible after 4 days, bring it down to 35 or lower if your chiller can handle it and continue to dump until you don’t get many solids. Then carbonate. If you do it correctly you should be able to carbonate in 24 hours no prob. Then just transfer to a keg.

 

[Rob2010SS]

Depends on if you get any hop creep or not....

You can easily have this “ready” in 2 weeks if you’re using a Unitank and can carbonate in the tank. I’d dump as much as possible after 4 days, bring it down to 35 or lower if your chiller can handle it and continue to dump until you don’t get many solids. Then carbonate. If you do it correctly you should be able to carbonate in 24 hours no prob. Then just transfer to a keg.

Yeah, so my plan was going to be...

- Brew Saturday
- Dump trub/sediment right around day 2 (usual process for me)
- As fermentation comes to a stop, dump trub again (usual process for me)
- Once ferm is complete, soft crash at 50*F for 1-2 days
- Dump yeast/sediment
- Warm back up to 60*F and do first dry hop for 2 days
- Add 2nd dry hop for 2 additional days
- Final cold crash at 35*F which I know the chiller can handle
- Carbonate using carb stone while crashing
- Keg

So, I think you and I are on the same page with dumping as much as possible and the chilling and the carbonating.

 

[couchsending]

I’d wait to carbonate until you’ve got as much solid matter out of the beer as possible. Not doing so is a sure fire way to get some burn.

 

[Rob2010SS]

I’d wait to carbonate until you’ve got as much solid matter out of the beer as possible. Not doing so is a sure fire way to get some burn.

And I should be able to. I'm hoping I'll have a spare couple of days in there where I can just let it crash and drop as much as possible.

 

[secretlevel]

Sorry if this was discussed somewhere way down the thread, but I've been curious to try a couple of yeasts that are somewhat outside of the realm of traditional NEIPA strains:

Imperial A38 Juice - seems that a few breweries use this strain to a good degree
Fermentis S-33 - estery English ale yeast from Fermentis

Has anyone experimented with these, how do they compare to the usual suspects like London Ale 3 or A24?

 

[Dgallo]

Sorry if this was discussed somewhere way down the thread, but I've been curious to try a couple of yeasts that are somewhat outside of the realm of traditional NEIPA strains:

Imperial A38 Juice - seems that a few breweries use this strain to a good degree
Fermentis S-33 - estery English ale yeast from Fermentis

Has anyone experimented with these, how do they compare to the usual suspects like London Ale 3 or A24?

Juice is imperials LAIII and fron my experience they are very similar. I personally can’t find much glaring differences. If you like LAIII then you’ll love a38 and it’s doubled cell count

S33 I’ve never used so I’m no help there.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Sorry if this was discussed somewhere way down the thread, but I've been curious to try a couple of yeasts that are somewhat outside of the realm of traditional NEIPA strains:

Imperial A38 Juice - seems that a few breweries use this strain to a good degree
Fermentis S-33 - estery English ale yeast from Fermentis

Has anyone experimented with these, how do they compare to the usual suspects like London Ale 3 or A24?

I have some S-33 myself but haven't used it yet. The isolated treehouse yeast thread has some on this yeast combined with S04. An example of this combo is here:

Isolated Yeast (Tree House): How to Identify and Characterize?

Seems interesting to me. Will prob try it sometime.

 

[Garmoni]

I brewed this last weekend. Air lock activity in the fermentation vessel stopped a few days ago. How long should I let this sit before I keg? Used 04 yeast and dry hopped 2.5 days into fermentation.

 

[DrGMG]

I brewed this last weekend. Air lock activity in the fermentation vessel stopped a few days ago. How long should I let this sit before I keg? Used 04 yeast and dry hopped 2.5 days into fermentation.

Check gravity to make sure it's really done fermenting.

 

[ScrewyBrewer]

I brewed this last weekend. Air lock activity in the fermentation vessel stopped a few days ago. How long should I let this sit before I keg? Used 04 yeast and dry hopped 2.5 days into fermentation.

I recently fermented a NEIPA batch and airlock activity, using US04, was just about done after 4 days. That's when I added some hops and let it sit another week before cold crashing for a few days.

 

[midegrou]

Question about soft-crashing. If I'm fermenting 2.2 gallons in a 3 gallon keg, would 5 psi at 66F be enough to safely crash to 50F and avoid any kind of vacuum?

 

[eugles]

After way too many oxidized neipas and ipas, I finally got one that doesn’t taste like butt. I used dgallo’s single hop recipe and spunded it for the first time. I want to now make an actual neipa using the same process I used last time. I’m looking for a recipe that is not 100% juice bomb, but has some dankness / earthiness / bitterness to it. Something like Bissell substance, lux, or heady. Seems they both share Apollo as a hop which I know is pretty dank. Would really appreciate a pointer here.

 

[SRJHops]

So... I brewed 18 straight NEIPA's over 2 years. They got better and better, thanks to Dgallo and so many others on this forum. Number 18 was better than most commercial versions I've had, but still not as good as the best (I'm drinking you, Weldworks Juicy Bits, Fair State Spirit Foul, Lupulin Blissful Ignorance, and pretty much anything from Toppling Goliath, Blackstack, and Barrel Theory). So, I took a break and made my first-ever Belgian Tripel. Nailed it. I like it better than Westmalle, seriously. So, two things:

1. NEIPA's - at least GREAT ONES -- are the hardest beers to brew.
2. Brewing NEIPA's makes you a better brewer.

My break will continue... next up is a Golden Strong, then a Saison and a Dubbel. But props and thanks to everyone on this forum. Keep up the challenge and brew that perfect NEIPA!

 

[Noob_Brewer]

After way too many oxidized neipas and ipas, I finally got one that doesn’t taste like butt. I used dgallo’s single hop recipe and spunded it for the first time. I want to now make an actual neipa using the same process I used last time. I’m looking for a recipe that is not 100% juice bomb, but has some dankness / earthiness / bitterness to it. Something like Bissell substance, lux, or heady. Seems they both share Apollo as a hop which I know is pretty dank. Would really appreciate a pointer here.

Ive never used apollo so cannot comment on that hop. But with NEIPAs I started using warrior for a more neutral bittering hop in the boil kettle. But now Im convinced that Columbus is my hop of choice for bittering in the boil. It brings a punchy dankness in my mind that plays a nice background to the rest of the hop bill. I typically do a 60min and a 5 or 10minute boil kettle addition. Works great with most any hops used for this style imo.

 

[anteater8]

After way too many oxidized neipas and ipas, I finally got one that doesn’t taste like butt. I used dgallo’s single hop recipe and spunded it for the first time. I want to now make an actual neipa using the same process I used last time. I’m looking for a recipe that is not 100% juice bomb, but has some dankness / earthiness / bitterness to it. Something like Bissell substance, lux, or heady. Seems they both share Apollo as a hop which I know is pretty dank. Would really appreciate a pointer here.

I usually go with the Trillium Melcher Street recipe when I'm looking for something a little more dank. I've brewed it exactly as is, and also replaced the mosaic with citra, vic secret, and mosaic/galaxy. They all turned out great, the citra version won a gold. I bet a simcoe and/or amarillo dry hop would be delicious too, and might even get you a little further from a juice bomb.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/trilium-melcher-street-clone.582962/

 

[JohnConnor]

I finally, finally had Edward over the holiday weekend. To say it lives up to the hype is an understatement, IMO. I was poking around a little to see if anyone had Ward's data on the finished profile and couldn't find anything. I was wondering if anyone here has and would be willing to share? I took a small sample and took a pH reading (mind you I didn't want to mess around with calibration but it was calibrated last weekend when I brewed). pH was 4.4. I'm really interested to see how it compares to the results of Julius Third Leap's blog posted. It was really soft so I'm wondering if Ca was really low. It wasn't overly drying to SO4 has to be pretty low. I kind of feel like they're using a water profile like trinity's Julius clone but with even lower Cl/SO4... like around 50 each?

 

[Beerdrinker85]

After way too many oxidized neipas and ipas, I finally got one that doesn’t taste like butt. I used dgallo’s single hop recipe and spunded it for the first time. I want to now make an actual neipa using the same process I used last time. I’m looking for a recipe that is not 100% juice bomb, but has some dankness / earthiness / bitterness to it. Something like Bissell substance, lux, or heady. Seems they both share Apollo as a hop which I know is pretty dank. Would really appreciate a pointer here.

What's the recipe?

 

[eugles]

I usually go with the Trillium Melcher Street recipe when I'm looking for something a little more dank. I've brewed it exactly as is, and also replaced the mosaic with citra, vic secret, and mosaic/galaxy. They all turned out great, the citra version won a gold. I bet a simcoe and/or amarillo dry hop would be delicious too, and might even get you a little further from a juice bomb.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/trilium-melcher-street-clone.582962/

Thanks much I will check it out!

 

[Rob2010SS]

Brewed up an attempt at the style this weekend! Color looks nice going to the fermenter! She took off very nicely. Pitched yeast at 230-3pm on Saturday, had activity start around 11pm based on readings from the tilt hydro. As of today, tilt hydro says it's at 1.030ish (1.066 to start).

I've been having some lag issues on the last few batches that I've done where I haven't seen any activity through the blowoff until 48 hours later or longer, so this was a nice and welcome change to see activity by 8-9 hour mark. Only thing I did differently was used whirlfloc and yeast nutrient in the boil. Not sure how much either of those would help...?

 

[Andre3000]

I'm about to double down on Janish's findings.

http://scottjanish.com/what-we-know-about-dry-hopping/
I'll be transferring the beer off after just over 24 hr contact time on a single DH charge on my latest creation. It's also cold crashing at 36F. I've never gone that short or that cold.

Has anyone else?

 

[Noob_Brewer]

I'm about to double down on Janish's findings.

http://scottjanish.com/what-we-know-about-dry-hopping/
I'll be transferring the beer off after just over 24 hr contact time on a single DH charge on my latest creation. It's also cold crashing at 36F. I've never gone that short or that cold.

Has anyone else?

I haven’t read it in a while but I thought the 24hr rule of thumb from his book applied to a higher temp for full extraction ie 60s. So cooler temps will take slightly longer for full extraction (without any agitation)