New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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I definitely find dry hopping at around 58 as I've been doing recently leaves a very smooth beer but takes longer to peak but once it does it hangs around till the keg kicks. Might try around 60-62 on the newest batch I brewed on Friday. It's fermenting away nicely now.
 
More malt...using more of a pale malt isn't going to make it darker

That’s not true at all. If you keep the final volume the same, your SRM will go up with increased OG. We aren’t talking yellow to copper, but it is noticeable, especially if low oxygen best practices aren’t employed on the cold side.
 
I use the Fermonster and have made my lid with the proper ball lock connections to pressure transfer with the floating dip tube. When I transfer from the fermonster to my keg, I see A LOT of tiny bubbles in the line. My transfer is very slow, 30 minutes to get 5 gallons in the keg. I also have to run about 8 psi, maybe a bit more. I think the hops may be slowing the transfer thru the ball lock. My hoses are all sealed with clamps and very tight, so I cannot see air getting in, but I could be wrong. Are these tiny bubbles C02? Anyone else have a lot of tiny bubbles in there beer line as they pressure transfer? Also how long does it take to transfer 5 gallons?
Not really a question for what was once the Premier NEIPA forum
Look for the answer in the "bubbles during transfer" forum
 
That’s not true at all. If you keep the final volume the same, your SRM will go up with increased OG. We aren’t talking yellow to copper, but it is noticeable, especially if low oxygen best practices aren’t employed on the cold side.

But he’s talking about getting to 8%, not making a 14% barleywine
 
Anyone played with Sabro and these recipes, finally got my hands on some?
I did a 2:2:2 WP and DH with Citra:Vic Secret:Sabro. I just kegged it and Sabro is def the star of the show. A lot of ppl on here use a smaller ratio as Sabro can get overpowering and cedar like.
 
But he’s talking about getting to 8%, not making a 14% barleywine

You said it wouldn’t make it darker, that is not correct. We can argue how perceptible the effect is, but the SRM absolutely increases.

Using Pilsner malt (best case scenario), going from 5% to 8% abv is still a change of 1 SRM.
 
I just noticed that most of the hops I've been using are 2018 packs that I got on the Fall sale from YVH. On top of that, most of the bags were previously opened, but I'm still making very enjoyable beers. Just wondering how much of an impact would fresh, 2019 sealed hops would make?
 
I just noticed that most of the hops I've been using are 2018 packs that I got on the Fall sale from YVH. On top of that, most of the bags were previously opened, but I'm still making very enjoyable beers. Just wondering how much of an impact would fresh, 2019 sealed hops would make?
It will make a very noticeable difference. Hop quality is one of the main reason why Breweries get hops from specific lots and rows on specific farms.
 
I just noticed that most of the hops I've been using are 2018 packs that I got on the Fall sale from YVH. On top of that, most of the bags were previously opened, but I'm still making very enjoyable beers. Just wondering how much of an impact would fresh, 2019 sealed hops would make?

I try to use previously opened bags in the kettle/whirlpool and save freshies for the dry hop.

It costs maybe a dollar more per pound to get 8oz bags instead of 16 oz at YVH.
 
I definitely find dry hopping at around 58 as I've been doing recently leaves a very smooth beer but takes longer to peak but once it does it hangs around till the keg kicks. Might try around 60-62 on the newest batch I brewed on Friday. It's fermenting away nicely now.

You know, it IS possible that my cold dry-hopped beer could be on that same trajectory... I noticed a taste improvement in the bottle I had last night. It was in the fermentor for two weeks, and has now been conditioning in bottles for 2 weeks. If the flavor keeps improving at 3 weeks in the bottle, we might have the winning process (for me at least).
 
Warm has always worked better for me for extraction and flavor/aroma. Eliminating fermentation dry hopping and getting the most yeast out of suspension before hand has greatly reduced the hopburn. It’s extremely rare that I get it anymore after doing these two things

Probably more than one way to skin the NEIPA cat! I was also experiencing some hop creep that led to over carbonation, so I like the idea of soft crashing after primary fermentation, but then dry hopping coldish. I bottle, of course, so my procedures may need to be different from those who keg...
 
You know, it IS possible that my cold dry-hopped beer could be on that same trajectory... I noticed a taste improvement in the bottle I had last night. It was in the fermentor for two weeks, and has now been conditioning in bottles for 2 weeks. If the flavor keeps improving at 3 weeks in the bottle, we might have the winning process (for me at least).
Report back your findings, will be curious to see. I keg so not sure how bottles behave with hop flavor.
 
I did a 2:2:2 WP and DH with Citra:Vic Secret:Sabro. I just kegged it and Sabro is def the star of the show. A lot of ppl on here use a smaller ratio as Sabro can get overpowering and cedar like.

I like the cedar note and wouldn’t be scared to use 3oz in a 5gal batch. I have done 2oz Sabro and want to try more in the future. I find it’s different than other NEIPA’s which I really enjoy.
 
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Report back your findings, will be curious to see. I keg so not sure how bottles behave with hop flavor.

Will do. I assume that NEIPA's in kegs also change over time. My bottled NEIPA's do seem to peak after at least a few weeks of conditioning. But a lot depends on how much "hop burn" they have. My latest has very little, which I believe is due to the cold dry hop. My previous one (dry hopped warm) was pretty spicy, though I got a lot of positive feedback on it.

I find it interesting that some of my favorite commercial examples have some hop burn, while others are pretty darn smooth.

One of my favs is Ectogasm by Drekker (Fargo, ND), and it has some pretty spicy burn. Great beer though!

But I had a really smooth and tasty all-Mosaic NEIPA last night from Drastic Measures (Wadena, MN -- smack in the middle of MN).
 
I kegged this tonight, followed the original recipe. It was my first time kegging, and first time doing closed transfer... It didn't go so well! Do you guys keep the exhaust valve of the keg open when transfering or just open it from time to time?

I had tied a hop bag on the end of my racking cane which i had to remove because it seemed to block the flow...then got to filling the second 2.5gal keg and the line blocked... I ended up opening the keg and transfering directly into it :( Hopefully it won't turn dark from oxidation.

On the upside the sample tasted awesome! Ill post some pics when all carbed up!
 
I like the cedar note and wouldn’t be scared to use 3oz in a 5gal batch. I have done 2oz SabroI and want to try more in the future. I find it’s different than other NEIPA’s which I really enjoy.
I just tried the first bottle from a recent batch. Not quire carbed all the way yet. Its a strawberry Milkshake IPA, Strawberry Milky Way i call it. It tastes very nice. No single hop really stands out.

10g Citra for 30 min boil. 40g Citra, 40g Mosaic, 32g Sabro in 170 degree hopstand for 10 minutes.
52g Citra, 52g Mosiac, 44g Sabro dryhop for 7 days added 2 days after the 3 lbs of strawberries. This was a batch with 3.5 gallons in the fermenter before the strawberries.
 
I kegged this tonight, followed the original recipe. It was my first time kegging, and first time doing closed transfer... It didn't go so well! Do you guys keep the exhaust valve of the keg open when transfering or just open it from time to time?

I had tied a hop bag on the end of my racking cane which i had to remove because it seemed to block the flow...then got to filling the second 2.5gal keg and the line blocked... I ended up opening the keg and transfering directly into it :( Hopefully it won't turn dark from oxidation.

On the upside the sample tasted awesome! Ill post some pics when all carbed up!

Run a line from the keg gas post to a bucket of starsan so you create an airlock.
 
I kegged this tonight, followed the original recipe. It was my first time kegging, and first time doing closed transfer... It didn't go so well! Do you guys keep the exhaust valve of the keg open when transfering or just open it from time to time?

I had tied a hop bag on the end of my racking cane which i had to remove because it seemed to block the flow...then got to filling the second 2.5gal keg and the line blocked... I ended up opening the keg and transfering directly into it :( Hopefully it won't turn dark from oxidation.

On the upside the sample tasted awesome! Ill post some pics when all carbed up!
What is your exact process? Typically using a racking cane would not be considered a closed transfer even if it’s connected to the liquid post. Unless it’s a special lid created that had one built in.

In regards to the pressure relief valve. Get the flow going into the keg first and once it’s started you can just leave the PRV open while you’re transfering. Don’t worry about any air entering the keg because as the beer fills the volume of the keg it will force air out of the PRV
 
What is your exact process? Typically using a racking cane would not be considered a closed transfer even if it’s connected to the liquid post. Unless it’s a special lid created that had one built in.

In regards to the pressure relief valve. Get the flow going into the keg first and once it’s started you can just leave the PRV open while you’re transfering. Don’t worry about any air entering the keg because as the beer fills the volume of the keg it will force air out of the PRV

Caution on leaving PRV open - if the beer is carbonated at all (aka spunded) it will foam during the transfer if the PRV is open. In my experience (I always spund) briefly venting the keg via PRV while filling minimizes the foam and allows me to get a full keg.
 
Caution on leaving PRV open - if the beer is carbonated at all (aka spunded) it will foam during the transfer if the PRV is open. In my experience (I always spund) briefly venting the keg via PRV while filling minimizes the foam and allows me to get a full keg.
I force carb so I have not experienced this issue
 
That’s not true at all. If you keep the final volume the same, your SRM will go up with increased OG. We aren’t talking yellow to copper, but it is noticeable, especially if low oxygen best practices aren’t employed on the cold side.
I have been using Pilsner Malt for NEIPA but suffering from oxidation.
 
What is your exact process? Typically using a racking cane would not be considered a closed transfer even if it’s connected to the liquid post. Unless it’s a special lid created that had one built in.

In regards to the pressure relief valve. Get the flow going into the keg first and once it’s started you can just leave the PRV open while you’re transfering. Don’t worry about any air entering the keg because as the beer fills the volume of the keg it will force air out of the PRV

I use an orange cap on my carboy so yes everything is closed transfer.
 
The results of my first keg pour!!

The beer is awesome. The only thing it lacks is maybe a bit more substance in backgrouns, but could be explained by my OG which was at 1.055 (still need to measure FG) and the fact that I didn't play at all with water chemistry this time around!

This is going to very easy to drink!
result_1584655148152.jpeg
 
I use an orange cap on my carboy so yes everything is closed transfer.
This one? If so just make sure you flush the cane and line with co2 first. You can do this by keeping the cane above the beer and hook up the co2 to the cap while having the line not connected to the balllock post yet and placed in a bucket of sanitizer solution. Run co2 through it for 20 seconds the place the balllock on with just the tip of the line submerged. This should eliminate all O2 from the transfer as long as the keg is completely purged too
https://www.morebeer.com/products/s...MIvOCEhtyn6AIVpP_jBx1lxQlpEAQYASABEgLUIvD_BwE
 
This one? If so just make sure you flush the cane and line with co2 first. You can do this by keeping the cane above the beer and hook up the co2 to the cap while having the line not connected to the balllock post yet and placed in a bucket of sanitizer solution. Run co2 through it for 20 seconds the place the balllock on with just the tip of the line submerged. This should eliminate all O2 from the transfer as long as the keg is completely purged too
https://www.morebeer.com/products/s...MIvOCEhtyn6AIVpP_jBx1lxQlpEAQYASABEgLUIvD_BwE
Yep! Duly noted for next time!
Do you use a hop bag or filter of some sort on the end of your racking cane?
 
I just tried the first bottle from a recent batch. Not quire carbed all the way yet. Its a strawberry Milkshake IPA, Strawberry Milky Way i call it. It tastes very nice. No single hop really stands out.

10g Citra for 30 min boil. 40g Citra, 40g Mosaic, 32g Sabro in 170 degree hopstand for 10 minutes.
52g Citra, 52g Mosiac, 44g Sabro dryhop for 7 days added 2 days after the 3 lbs of strawberries. This was a batch with 3.5 gallons in the fermenter before the strawberries.

I feel like this is the case with all Milkshake IPA's I've had - lots of sweetness but not much hops. You must find balance in the force!

The results of my first keg pour!!

The beer is awesome. The only thing it lacks is maybe a bit more substance in backgrouns, but could be explained by my OG which was at 1.055 (still need to measure FG) and the fact that I didn't play at all with water chemistry this time around!

This is going to very easy to drink!View attachment 671707

Love how hazy that is, sometimes you need an easy drinker! You always need something to learn from, if you never try then you'll never succeed :)
 
Caution on leaving PRV open - if the beer is carbonated at all (aka spunded) it will foam during the transfer if the PRV is open. In my experience (I always spund) briefly venting the keg via PRV while filling minimizes the foam and allows me to get a full keg.
I'd caution for another reason...clogs!

If the transfer stops at all (which is more likely to happen with this style than any other) you will let air in. Better bet is either run the gas post into a blowoff vessel or better yet use a spunding valve set to a few psi below your transfer pressure
 
Will do. I assume that NEIPA's in kegs also change over time. My bottled NEIPA's do seem to peak after at least a few weeks of conditioning. But a lot depends on how much "hop burn" they have. My latest has very little, which I believe is due to the cold dry hop. My previous one (dry hopped warm) was pretty spicy, though I got a lot of positive feedback on it.

I find it interesting that some of my favorite commercial examples have some hop burn, while others are pretty darn smooth.

One of my favs is Ectogasm by Drekker (Fargo, ND), and it has some pretty spicy burn. Great beer though!

But I had a really smooth and tasty all-Mosaic NEIPA last night from Drastic Measures (Wadena, MN -- smack in the middle of MN).

Reporting back... Well, sign me up for the cold dry hop for 48 hours. This is NEIPA #17 and it is my favorite so far. It took 4 weeks of conditioning, but it finally all came together. Low hop burn, but really good flavor. I have a few more tweaks, but for me, cold dry hopping is my new process...
 
It's really not clear at all. You can't see through it, it's just not opaque and milky looking. Here's a better picture of it. It's fairly hazy.

Ive attached a picture of my hopping schedule and yeast as well. View attachment 672205View attachment 672206
Thanks. Not trying to talk the beer down but it seems to me wheat can sometimes be counterproductive for haze.
At that dry hopping rate with oats in the mix I would expect more haze.
 
Thanks. Not trying to talk the beer down but it seems to me wheat can sometimes be counterproductive for haze.
At that dry hopping rate with oats in the mix I would expect more haze.
Yeah no worries! What I unintentionally left out of my initial description of the grain bill was the use of white wheat. The white wheat led to a decrease in the amount of flaked oats and wheat. I think this is the reason for reduced haze.
Screenshot_20200322-094027_Drive.jpeg
 
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