New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Hannabrew]

First time using whole hops in a neipa dry hop. What is the current recommendation for extraction time?

 

[ihavenonickname]

I can only speak from my personal experience - I think 3-4 days at room temp does it. I’ll usually do 2 days for pellets. I think the bigger thing is getting them incorporated, the suckers won’t sink. If I’m using whole cones/leaf I definitely dry hop in the keg so I can purge and then roll it around/shake it a few times a day

 

[ttuato]

I'm curious about this as I use floating dip tubes with silicon tubing and have also noticed it doesn't get clear after a PBW soak (not that any silicon really does). I've also had some issues with my NEIPAs not being up to my standard lately but nothing has changed process-wise so I wonder... However, I use the floating dip tubes for all my beers and have served plenty of clean lagers with them and didn't notice any weird hop flavors coming through so find it hard to believe that could be the cause. Anybody else think this is an issue?

Option 1: Change the hoses every few months. It is cheap if bought from amazon.

Option 2: More general recommendation. Yes it happened to me too I have floating diptubes in all 10 kegs. I never determined the cause. I did the following and it went away. In my opinion - PBW needs more "oomph" to clean non-stainless surfaces (i.e. hoses and plastic fermentors). PBW is mostly just oxiclean with a boost agent (Sodium Metasilicate). I started using a true caustic agent every couple of months or so to deep clean. I have a 15gal BK - fill to 12gal add 4tbsp PBW & 4tbsp Lye, I throw in all of my silicone hoses and attachments heat temp to 175 for 20mins. The silicone hoses get squeaky clean, the amount of biofilm (?) that ends up floating in the water is shocking - even though I use PBW after every brew. Coincidentally this is why I also stopped using a CFC chiller and switched to Jaded Hydra.... I then pour the hot water into my fermentors to sit for 20-30min. After rinsing good, spray all SS with super strength StarSan, air dry over night

Caution: Use chemical resistant gloves, rubber boots, goggles and other protective gear. DO NOT allow contact with skin

 

[couchsending]

First time using whole hops in a neipa dry hop. What is the current recommendation for extraction time?

I’d be real hesitant to dry hop with whole hops personally... what will be your process?

 

[Dgallo]

Agreed. Lots of pockets in the hops to trap o2, poorer extraction rates, more green material, and the additional loss

 

[kevink]

I totally agree. I would definitely use pellets instead.

 

[couchsending]

The interesting thing about whole leaf hops is that a lot of the compounds associated with bio transformation are located in the leaf matter itself, not in the lupulin. I’ve started using leaf hops in a hop back and have toyed around with the idea of adding some leaf hops to the fermenter either before yeast pitch or during fermentation. Ideally some form of low alpha hop.

Looking forward to the “American noble” hop releases from YCH which hopefully will finally be available to homebrewers this fall. The leaf matter from Citra/Mosaic/Amarillo/etc without all the alpha acids could be really interesting to play with. Potentially some positive biotransformation flavors/aromas without the negative aspects of adding a ton of hops during fermentation.

 

[Hannabrew]

I was going to add them to a SS dry hop canister and purge as best as possible. Only reason I was going to use them was to get idaho7 in the DH and that's the only form I have them in. Maybe I just skip it or suck it up and buy some pellets even though I have a 12oz of whole leaf. It's good for WP at least.

 

[Hannabrew]

Option 1: Change the hoses every few months. It is cheap if bought from amazon.

Option 2: More general recommendation. Yes it happened to me too I have floating diptubes in all 10 kegs. I never determined the cause. I did the following and it went away. In my opinion - PBW needs more "oomph" to clean non-stainless surfaces (i.e. hoses and plastic fermentors). PBW is mostly just oxiclean with a boost agent (Sodium Metasilicate). I started using a true caustic agent every couple of months or so to deep clean. I have a 15gal BK - fill to 12gal add 4tbsp PBW & 4tbsp Lye, I throw in all of my silicone hoses and attachments heat temp to 175 for 20mins. The silicone hoses get squeaky clean, the amount of biofilm (?) that ends up floating in the water is shocking - even though I use PBW after every brew. Coincidentally this is why I also stopped using a CFC chiller and switched to Jaded Hydra.... I then pour the hot water into my fermentors to sit for 20-30min. After rinsing good, spray all SS with super strength StarSan, air dry over night

Caution: Use chemical resistant gloves, rubber boots, goggles and other protective gear. DO NOT allow contact with skin

So something like this would work? And by super strength Star San are you just not dilluting it as much? What is the purpose of super-strengthing it?

https://www.amazon.com/Sodium-Hydro...la-492676623295&ref=&adgrpid=62022137216&th=1

 

[cheesebach]

I was wondering about this too, it would be simple to test (have to do this myself).
Just take some coloured tubing and soak it in some water for a while and taste the water afterwards.
My kegs are occupied atm but if you do test this please share the results.

Thanks for the input - if nothing else, it helps me feel a little less OCD knowing others have thought about this too The water test seems like a good suggestion - I may give it a try this week with the tubing that I suspected might have caused the issue. There were certainly other variables in the mix on the keg with the CBDS that went bad, so it would help me to know one way or another whether the off flavor could have come from the hop-stained CBDS silicone tubing.

I've also wondered whether using the CBDS in the fermenter where the bottom of the tubing sits in a layer of krausen and dry hops might contribute to more potential for flavor carry-over or off flavors when using it in the serving keg on a subsequent beer. I'm not sure if I be using the CBDS in the fermenter again (given how well the stainless mesh "Janish" dip tube screen has been working for me), but I would like to be able to draw from the top in the serving keg in the future without having to worry about off flavors.

Option 1: Change the hoses every few months. It is cheap if bought from amazon.

Option 2: More general recommendation. Yes it happened to me too I have floating diptubes in all 10 kegs. I never determined the cause. I did the following and it went away. In my opinion - PBW needs more "oomph" to clean non-stainless surfaces (i.e. hoses and plastic fermentors). PBW is mostly just oxiclean with a boost agent (Sodium Metasilicate). I started using a true caustic agent every couple of months or so to deep clean. I have a 15gal BK - fill to 12gal add 4tbsp PBW & 4tbsp Lye, I throw in all of my silicone hoses and attachments heat temp to 175 for 20mins. The silicone hoses get squeaky clean, the amount of biofilm (?) that ends up floating in the water is shocking - even though I use PBW after every brew. Coincidentally this is why I also stopped using a CFC chiller and switched to Jaded Hydra.... I then pour the hot water into my fermentors to sit for 20-30min. After rinsing good, spray all SS with super strength StarSan, air dry over night

Caution: Use chemical resistant gloves, rubber boots, goggles and other protective gear. DO NOT allow contact with skin

When you say that it happened to you too, do you mean you got off-flavors you suspect were from re-using the silicone tubing? Or just that you got the visual ugly stains? If it was off flavors, how would you describe the off flavor?

Thanks for the cleaning suggestion - depending how cheap I can find the silicon tubing, I'm not sure that it's worth the hassle to go through all that just for the CBDS, but I'm sure that process would help for some other plastic and silicon parts that are susceptible to staining and retaining aromas.

 

[kevink]

I was going to add them to a SS dry hop canister and purge as best as possible. Only reason I was going to use them was to get idaho7 in the DH and that's the only form I have them in. Maybe I just skip it or suck it up and buy some pellets even though I have a 12oz of whole leaf. It's good for WP at least.

If you purge them in the dry hop chamber with adequate pressure and enough cycles, you should be fine from an O2 perspective as long as you have a way to get them into the fermenter without exposing them to O2. I'm building a dry hop chamber right now. I can't wait to start using it.

 

[nick sekerak]

What’s the name of the strain? It can’t be “Loki” since that’s s Voss isolated strain. But yeah you’re LHBS is correct. You only want to pitch 1/2 the pouch or even 1/4. Over build s starter with the remaining yeast and store it in sanitized mason jars for future use. It’s a great summer yeast to work with since tap water temps are high and make cooling lengthy. You can pitch a 95-100 if you’d like

The name of the strain is Kveiking check it out

https://www.imperialyeast.com/organic-yeast-strains/yeast-types/seasonal/kveiking/

 

[beervoid]

If you purge them in the dry hop chamber with adequate pressure and enough cycles, you should be fine from an O2 perspective as long as you have a way to get them into the fermenter without exposing them to O2. I'm building a dry hop chamber right now. I can't wait to start using it.

Could you share some more on that chamber?
What kind of device are you building?

 

[nick sekerak]

here is where i have been getting my replacement silicone dip tubes/CBDS.

https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Tubing-for-Top-Draw-Pick-Up-sold-per-foot-P4660.aspx

One thing i learned about the CBDS when doing my last competition: the neipa just hit its prime after kegging in about 12 days. But only lasted this way for about a week then i could taste it diminishing and it was developing a boozy finish that was getting stronger with time. but i had another week until the contest. So i read somewhere that you can shake up the keg to re-suspend the hop oils into the brew, so i did that but it brought back some astringency along with it even after 5 days rest. It did make the brew alot better and the boozeyness went away, the BJCP judges scored it a 34. One judge comented on the grassy/vegital. But i knew it was only half as good at the time of the contest than what it was when it was in its prime. Now this was my first time using the CBDS so i am not sure if i like it because this does not happen when i just use a regular keg dip tube with the same brew recipe. I am doing another competition this month and i am trying to time it out so it hits its prime right before i turn in my entry and it should be rockin(i hope). I just feel like the CBDS kinda makes it taste better/condition faster on the front end but it only lasts a week or so. Using a conventional dip tube i feel it takes longer to condition the beer to hit its prime but it lasts longer usually 2.5 to 3 weeks typically. I am thinking about doing a experimental batch with the CBDS using hops @ 3oz/gal to see if it would last longer when it hits prime.

Does anyone have any input on this or has anything similar happened to them when using the CBDS?

 

[nick sekerak]

Could you share some more on that chamber?
What kind of device are you building?

On guy in my brew club recommended pre-crushing all the pellets, putting them in a ziplock bag, this way you can squeeze the 02 out without any voids of O2 between the pellets, purging ziplock bag with CO2, then purging your FV so a layer of CO2 is on top of you brew before adding hops. Then dumping them in. Close up the FV and purge again.

 

[Dgallo]

On guy in my brew club recommended pre-crushing all the pellets, putting them in a ziplock bag, this way you can squeeze the 02 out without any voids of O2 between the pellets, purging ziplock bag with CO2, then purging your FV so a layer of CO2 is on top of you brew before adding hops. Then dumping them in. Close up the FV and purge again.

Idk how efficient the crushing will actually will be to minimize o2. To me the nitrogen purged pellets from Yakima chief and even Yakima valley hops seem like better options than crushing the hops and exposing more of the hop material to oxygen.ziploc bags them selves can have flaws and after pulverizing the pellets in the bag youre bound to put holes in the bag. Seems like a lot of work for a possibility of more o2 pickup.

 

[popquizkid]

Just got home and Dgallo you were right. It’s fermenting like crazy.

Another data point I used A24 for the first time on a brew. Oxygenated wort and pitched (without starter) yesterday AM and it was not active until this morning. Seems that without a starter it can have a sluggish start.

Starter is standard for me, but I was rushed on this one so skipped it. In hindsight as long as it took to get the wort down to pitching temp in my ferm chamber I could have made a starter post brew and had it ready to pitch yesterday AM!

Chilling is a total PITA with the warm tap water temps this time of year.

 

[nick sekerak]

Idk how efficient the crushing will actually will be to minimize o2. To me the nitrogen purged pellets from Yakima chief and even Yakima valley hops seem like better options than crushing the hops and exposing more of the hop material to oxygen.ziploc bags them selves can have flaws and after pulverizing the pellets in the bag youre bound to put holes in the bag. Seems like a lot of work for a possibility of more o2 pickup.

Yeah i thought it was too much work too, but wanted to just throw the idea out there. Right now i have my first batch in the new fermzilla and i really like how you can purge the collection jar with CO2. I am using the collection jar to add my dry hop charges. I just put them in the jar, attach to the FV, purge with CO2 and open the butterfly valve and all the hop pellets just float right up to the top. I purged like 8 times so i think this is by far the lowest O2 dry hopping method i have seen. I am excited to see if there is any flavor differences. Before i would just open my FV lid and dump them straight in, i did not have any way to purge my old FV either.

 

[Dr.Jay]

So I brewed this 2 weeks ago and kegged today. I had to mash for about 5 hours due to unforseen circumstances and my OG was 1.064. I used S04 cause I only have acces to dry yeast. dry hopped(loose hops) at day 3, almost no krausen and I never saw the airlock bubble, really weird. tried taking a gravity measurement , but the bottom faucet of the fermentation vessel was clogged. said **** it and just waited 2 weeks. FG today was 1.006 .. what?. Maybe I mashed for too long? Anyhow, tried minimizing the exposure to air, but got a lot of problems from the amount of hopps and sediment that was going around. loose hops plus no cold crash made a super dense beer. good taste, very hoppy. I think its more in the range of a DIPA than a NEIPA now. will take pictures when its carbed .

 

[ttuato]

So something like this would work? And by super strength Star San are you just not dilluting it as much? What is the purpose of super-strengthing it?

https://www.amazon.com/Sodium-Hydro...la-492676623295&ref=&adgrpid=62022137216&th=1

The caustic will strip the protective coating on the metal. Gotta back it up with a no rinse acid so metal can passivate. I don't have nitric acid lying around so I use starsan which works too. 30mLs to ONE gallon of RO water is the mix ratio (5x normal). This is same process that pros use except they usually use nitric.

Yes - same stuff. You want 100% sodium hydroxide in powder form not liquid (liquid not 100%)

 

[ttuato]

When you say that it happened to you too, do you mean you got off-flavors you suspect were from re-using the silicone tubing? Or just that you got the visual ugly stains? If it was off flavors, how would you describe the off flavor?

Thanks for the cleaning suggestion - depending how cheap I can find the silicon tubing, I'm not sure that it's worth the hassle to go through all that just for the CBDS, but I'm sure that process would help for some other plastic and silicon parts that are susceptible to staining and retaining aromas.

Yes flavor carry over from the hops but I would describe as "off flavor". If I put a pilsner in keg after NEIPA I could taste the fruity hops. Stains darkening of the entire silicon tube is normal and will not ever go away, but streaks or spots is biofilm(?) and can only be removed using a strong caustic.

Replacing the tube is cheap and what I used to do every few months. Now I do the deep clean described above on my kegs a few times a year. I put lid on, pressurize and depress outlet to get cleaning fluid in tube. No carry over hop flavors after that. Since I started that I haven't replace my CBDS tubes in over a year.

FYI - sodium hydroxide is what the OG Drano was - except it had aluminum flakes mixed in with it. Do not use this on aluminum kettles it will "eat" through it.

 

[ttuato]

Another data point I used A24 for the first time on a brew. Oxygenated wort and pitched (without starter) yesterday AM and it was not active until this morning. Seems that without a starter it can have a sluggish start.

Starter is standard for me, but I was rushed on this one so skipped it. In hindsight as long as it took to get the wort down to pitching temp in my ferm chamber I could have made a starter post brew and had it ready to pitch yesterday AM!

Chilling is a total PITA with the warm tap water temps this time of year.

Buy a submersible pump on amazon. Freeze some gallon jugs of water. Put frozen jugs and pump inside small cooler full of water at beginning of boil so have time to water in cooler . Use tap water w/ chiller to get temp down to 100, switch hose to submersible pump and recirculate back into cooler. I brewed a pilsner today - my tap water is 85... Using this process I got wort down to 63 in about 20mins.

 

[Andre3000]

On guy in my brew club recommended pre-crushing all the pellets, putting them in a ziplock bag, this way you can squeeze the 02 out without any voids of O2 between the pellets, purging ziplock bag with CO2, then purging your FV so a layer of CO2 is on top of you brew before adding hops. Then dumping them in. Close up the FV and purge again.

There will still be a lot of O2 entrained between the pellets when you go to actually put them into your fermenter. When you go to open the ziploc bag, air will rush in, ultimately defeating the purpose.

Idk how efficient the crushing will actually will be to minimize o2. To me the nitrogen purged pellets from Yakima chief and even Yakima valley hops seem like better options than crushing the hops and exposing more of the hop material to oxygen.ziploc bags them selves can have flaws and after pulverizing the pellets in the bag youre bound to put holes in the bag. Seems like a lot of work for a possibility of more o2 pickup.

I agree with your comments.

The best I've come up with is this. I do this the day before I dry hop.:

1. Get a tall mason jar or other airtight container and dump your hops in. The more headspace the jar has with your dry hop charge in it, the better.
2. Remove your gas disconnect from the hose on your tank so that it's just an open ended hose. If you don't have means to remove the gas disconnect such as a quick connect, this method won't work for you.
3. Back the regulator off (all the way counter clockwise) such that when you open the main valve on the tank, no CO2 flows out.
4. Insert the hose into the jar with the hops in it. If you can wiggle the hose to the very bottom of the hops, all the better.
5. Slowly!! Turn the regulator in the clockwise direction until the flow of CO2 starts. If you turn it up too much too fast the hops will become violently airborne and you'll have hop dust from a$$hole to breakfast. Ask me how I know.
6. Let the gas flow for 30 seconds or so to flood the jar with CO2.
7. Quickly remove the hose and cap the the jar.
8. Perform steps 2-7 again once more right before you dry hop.

I believe this method allows the CO2 to displace the O2, and over night diffuses with/dilutes any remaining O2 within the hop pellet crevices.

I also believe that this, combined with a slow trickle into the gas post (if fermenting in a keg) when dumping the hops from the jar into the fermentation keg keeps O2 exposure to the beer at very low levels due to the "updraft" of CO2 coming out the fermenter. Janish talks about this in his book actually.

You might be able to use the method above with a ziploc bag in place of the jar.

The next step up to baller status is something like this, of course:

 

[SanPancho]

The name of the strain is Kveiking check it out

https://www.imperialyeast.com/organic-yeast-strains/yeast-types/seasonal/kveiking/

Where did you pick yours up? I dont see it at morebeer which is closest, and nb is bit expensive with shipping.

 

[Hannabrew]

I just use these to vacuum seal my dry hop charge

https://www.amazon.com/FoodSaver-T0...ocphy=9021730&hvtargid=pla-304527580468&psc=1

I then do the same process as dgallo to add them except since I use a floating dip tube I don't need to worry about waiting until I pull out the lid. I just kinda hang it on the side of the opening of the Fermonster with the gas on 2psi and then quickly pop the vacuum-sealed jar and dump. If there is fermentation going on still I don't bother additional purging. If I'm at FG, then I purge a couple times at 5psi.

 

[nick sekerak]

Where did you pick yours up? I dont see it at morebeer which is closest, and nb is bit expensive with shipping.

My LHBS ordered it for me. I am assuming they went direct from imperial but not certain. I have yet to try but love the ester description they have for it on there website. My friend brewed a 10gal batch and had activity 3 hrs after pitching the entire package, no starter was used

 

[SRJHops]

Sharing one of the best recipes I have ever made:

6gallon to fermentor
70% 2R
18% Crisp Malted Oats (hulless)
9% Chit
3% Honey Malt (I am shocked how such a small amount affects SRM)

1.062 SG
1.012 FG
~6.5%

Water profile: RO water - treated to 66 CA, 22 MG, 20 Na, 88 SO4, 150 Cl

Bittering: 30min Bravo 0.75oz (~25 ibus)
WP: 2oz each Idaho7, Mosaic, Moteuka
Dryhop@ FG after soft crash to 58* for 48hrs - 3oz each: Idaho 7, Galaxy, Vic Secret (1.5oz per gal)

Yeast: Conan (Barbarian A04 Gen 3)

• Day 1-5 68*
• Day 6-8 72*
• Day 9-10 75*
• Day 11-13 58*, Day 12 added dryhops
• Day 14 kegged

Photos at Day 21

So 9 ounces dry hops 48 hours before kegging? And 3 ounces were Galaxy? I got gigantic hop burn and astringency when I used 2 ounces before bottling, so I have been scared of Galaxy and high DH rates ever since. But maybe it wasnt the late DH and Galaxy? I need to figure this out bc I would like to be more aggressive with dh amounts....

 

[ttuato]

So 9 ounces dry hops 48 hours before kegging? And 3 ounces were Galaxy? I got gigantic hop burn and astringency when I used 2 ounces before bottling, so I have been scared of Galaxy and high DH rates ever since. But maybe it wasnt the late DH and Galaxy? I need to figure this out bc I would like to be more aggressive with dh amounts....

I put CBDS in all my kegs a few years ago between that and soft crashing before dryhopping AND only dryhopping for 48hrs I have not experienced astigency or hop burn since. The last part I think is the most important

 

[SRJHops]

I put CBDS in all my kegs a few years ago between that and soft crashing before dryhopping AND only dryhopping for 48hrs I have not experienced astigency or hop burn since. The last part I think is the most important

CBDS?

 

[isomerization]

CBDS?

Clear beer draft system, aka a floating dip tube.

 

[SanPancho]

My luck with kveik is mixed. If this one is even close then ill try it out. Wound up ordering from fh steinbart in Portland. We’ll see what happens.

 

[stickyfinger]

I put CBDS in all my kegs a few years ago between that and soft crashing before dryhopping AND only dryhopping for 48hrs I have not experienced astigency or hop burn since. The last part I think is the most important

i'd like to know from people more experienced with cold crashing...is it possible to have hop burn if you cold crash? since i started cold crashing again i have had very smooth IPAs right from the start. i don't think you can get hop burn if you drop out the excess yeast (with a soft crash) and and then drop out the hop particulate with a cold crash...

i split a batch with a friend recently. he didn't do a cold crash and i did. i used more hops but different varieties (some the same) and mine was much less yeasty and much smoother. his had a definite hop bite.

 

[SRJHops]

Clear beer draft system, aka a floating dip tube.

Oh. What does that do to help reduce burn/astringency?

 

[stickyfinger]

Oh. What does that do to help reduce burn/astringency?

the main advantage of the CBDS is that you can rack from the primary (if you ferment in kegs or another vessel that is compatible with the CBDS) straight to a serving keg after a cold crash. No problems with clogging. It can also help if you serve a beer with it though. If you start with a yeasty, sludgy mess of a beer in the keg and serve using the CBDS, you can serve from the top of the keg as the big particles move downward in the keg slowly. So, you are taking the clearer part at the top.

it works very well for beers that benefit from being clear as well, such as nitro beers or lagers. you can start serving from the top of the keg very early and get better foam and flavor. also, if you move the keg, you don't really have to worry about stirring up the yeast/hops a bit as the CBDS will pull from the top.

 

[ttuato]

Oh. What does that do to help reduce burn/astringency?

Within 48hrs of 40ish temps in the keezer the hop particles have fallen out of suspension to the bottom of the keg. This system pulls beer from the top of the keg rather than the bottom with traditional diptubes, thereby avoiding the hop particulate that has precipitated out of solution - and thus avoid the burn / astrigency. (as mentioned earlier - soft crash before dryhop, dryhop 48 hrs, cold crash then keg will greatly reduce the burn / astrigency)

http://www.clearbeerdraughtsystem.com/info.html

Here is the knockoff version used in fermentasaurus. I have five of these and six CBDS. All work the same. I actually prefer the knockoff as it gets more beer out at the end.

https://www.morebeer.com/products/r...t-60-cm-silicone-dip-tube-fermentasaurus.html

 

[SanPancho]

i'd like to know from people more experienced with cold crashing...is it possible to have hop burn if you cold crash? since i started cold crashing again i have had very smooth IPAs right from the start. i don't think you can get hop burn if you drop out the excess yeast (with a soft crash) and and then drop out the hop particulate with a cold crash...

Yes, you still can. It happens.

 

[SRJHops]

Within 48hrs of 40ish temps in the keezer the hop particles have fallen out of suspension to the bottom of the keg. This system pulls beer from the top of the keg rather than the bottom with traditional diptubes, thereby avoiding the hop particulate that has precipitated out of solution - and thus avoid the burn / astrigency. (as mentioned earlier - soft crash before dryhop, dryhop 48 hrs, cold crash then keg will greatly reduce the burn / astrigency)

http://www.clearbeerdraughtsystem.com/info.html

Here is the knockoff version used in fermentasaurus. I have five of these and six CBDS. All work the same. I actually prefer the knockoff as it gets more beer out at the end.

https://www.morebeer.com/products/r...t-60-cm-silicone-dip-tube-fermentasaurus.html

Thanks. Makes sense. I also will try the soft and cold crash. I am still pushing for more aroma, but worried about going over the top on dry hop amounts. I think the double crash will help.

 

[Dgallo]

Thanks. Makes sense. I also will try the soft and cold crash. I am still pushing for more aroma, but worried about going over the top on dry hop amounts. I think the double crash will help.

Just switch to kegging already brother. You’ll be astounded by the quality increase when you do

 

[Dgallo]

Treehouse is again heavily using oats in Curiosity 74 pairing citra and Amarillo. “This combination has resulted is many of or favorite beers to date..”

 

[isomerization]

Treehouse is again heavily using oats in Curiosity 74 pairing citra and Amarillo. “This combination has resulted is many of or favorite beers to date..”View attachment 640043

“Carefully stressed” lol