New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[ryanm8]

Made another batch of this after taking a break to brew some other styles. It came out fantastic. Man, I really missed having this beer around. None of the NEIPA's I can get from local breweries come close.

I made a few tweaks. I soft crashed to 60 F for 24 hours and then dry hopped in a BIAB bag (so the hops can float freely). I let it free rise to around 72 for 3 days and then bottled. Seemed to come out even murkier than usual and bursting with flavor.

For the next batch, I might keep the temp at 60 for the duration of the dry hop. I was concerned it would not extract as much flavor so I let it free rise. Are people dry hopping at 50 or 60 F without issue?

 

[Hannabrew]

That looks nice. What's the grain bill?

40% 2row
35% Golden Promise
11% Malted Oats
7% Malted Wheat
6% Carapils
1% Caramunich I

Here's a poured pic

 

[Dgallo]

40% 2row
35% Golden Promise
11% Malted Oats
7% Malted Wheat
6% Carapils
1% Caramunich I

Here's a poured pic

View attachment 632639

You got very nice head retention for using malted oats. Does it actually stick around or does it fade rather quickly?

I’ve never been able to have a head last using malted oats

 

[VirginiaHops1]

Question about whirlpool times and temps... The new issue of Zymurgy has a Julius clone with a 1-hour whirlpool at 108! That really flies against Janish's whirpool suggestions of 203 and 185 (which seems hot to me, but he's got the research to back it.)

Wondering where folks are for their whirlpool times and temps? I do think I need to make mine longer, but not sure about that low temp!

https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/homebrew-recipe/tree-house-brewing-company-julius-clone/

I've tried it several different ways. I used to drop temp to 170-180 and whirlpool all the hops at that temp for 30 minutes or so. My last few batches I've put in half the whirlpool hops at flameout for about 15 minutes and the other half when temp is down to about 170/175 for another 15 minutes. Both those methods have produced some really good beers for me. I did a batch one time where I whirlpooled for a really long time, I believe several hours, because I had to leave the house for awhile. I'm sure the temp got down really low on that one. I did not notice any enhanced hop flavor so I generally keep it to 30 minutes. My brew day is long enough already.

 

[stickyfinger]

I've done 3 IPAs now dry hopping at 60F after a cold crash. One is great, one is less great (but was probably due to my insanely high dry hop rate) and the last one I just racked last night and it has huge aroma and amazing flavor from the dregs sample. I'd try doing 60F for your next dry hop and see what you think. I think 1-1.33 oz/gal works well.

One reason I like this method is that you don't have to worry as much about hop creep. I did an IPA with a warm dry hop a few weeks ago, and it had huge hop creep. The IPA I just kegged after doing a soft crash dry hop had zero hop creep.

Made another batch of this after taking a break to brew some other styles. It came out fantastic. Man, I really missed having this beer around. None of the NEIPA's I can get from local breweries come close.

I made a few tweaks. I soft crashed to 60 F for 24 hours and then dry hopped in a BIAB bag (so the hops can float freely). I let it free rise to around 72 for 3 days and then bottled. Seemed to come out even murkier than usual and bursting with flavor.

For the next batch, I might keep the temp at 60 for the duration of the dry hop. I was concerned it would not extract as much flavor so I let it free rise. Are people dry hopping at 50 or 60 F without issue?

 

[Hannabrew]

You got very nice head retention for using malted oats. Does it actually stick around or does it fade rather quickly?

I’ve never been able to have a head last using malted oats

Thanks. It lasts. Using the LowOxygen techniques really will do wonders for your head. I actually don't use sulfites for NEIPAs as malt is certainly not the focus but I do use all the rest of the techniques including clear wort throughout, BTB, spunding, etc.

 

[Dgallo]

With 9 days left to the forth, I’m thinking of brewing a NEIPA or a sesssion NEIPA. Using a Kviek I could have either ready in time. I want to do a single hop. So I have 2019 Galaxy and 2018 Mosiac and I can’t decide For me Mosiac is one of the best if not the best stand alone hop but fresh galaxy is fresh galaxy lol what are your thoughts? Someone help me make a decision.

 

[isomerization]

With 9 days left to the forth, I’m thinking of brewing a NEIPA or a sesssion NEIPA. Using a Kviek I could have either ready in time. I want to do a single hop. So I have 2019 Galaxy and 2018 Mosiac and I can’t decide For me Mosiac is one of the best if not the best stand alone hop but fresh galaxy is fresh galaxy lol what are your thoughts? Someone help me make a decision.

If you’re worried about timing, I’d avoid the Galaxy (hop burn).

 

[Dgallo]

If you’re worried about timing, I’d avoid the Galaxy (hop burn).

That was certainly a fear of mine but I’ve heard a few guys who’ve used this lot of Galaxy from YVH and they didn’t get that hop burn. Also if I do a session it will only require a today or 8oz of hops

 

[isomerization]

That was certainly a fear of mine but I’ve heard a few guys who’ve used this lot of Galaxy from YVH and they didn’t get that hop burn. Also if I do a session it will only require a today or 8oz of hops

Sounds like you have your answer

 

[stickyfinger]

I've used the Galaxy from the very first YVH sale from this year in two IPAs and both were drinkable the day after they were carbonated. Go for the Galaxy. Incidentally, I just did a Galaxy-Mosaic 1:1, and that tastes awesome as well...

That was certainly a fear of mine but I’ve heard a few guys who’ve used this lot of Galaxy from YVH and they didn’t get that hop burn. Also if I do a session it will only require a today or 8oz of hops

 

[stickyfinger]

I love this quote from the YVH site about Galaxy hops...

"***By purchasing these hops, you agree to brew with them yourself and not resell them... because only a turd would do something like that.***"

 

[Genuine]

Another thing I've been thinking about lately has been Whirl pool time. Do you get more extraction from an hour or hour and a half long whirlpool vs 30 min? Does it make a noticeable difference?

Edit: Well, eff me for not reading the latest post before posting...lol.

 

[Loud Brewing]

2row
Malted wheat
Malted oats
Cane sugar
No flaked adjuncts, good head retention
Wlp-008
.5g per gal gypsum 1.5g per gal cal chloride
Small citra bitter at 10min
Citra and mosaic whirlpool at 180f for 15min
Double dry hopped w citra and mosaic day 3 and 7
Og 1065 Fg 1008
Crisp w lime zest and tropical fruit
Canned on kegland cannular at higher vols

 

[SRJHops]

I've tried it several different ways. I used to drop temp to 170-180 and whirlpool all the hops at that temp for 30 minutes or so. My last few batches I've put in half the whirlpool hops at flameout for about 15 minutes and the other half when temp is down to about 170/175 for another 15 minutes. Both those methods have produced some really good beers for me. I did a batch one time where I whirlpooled for a really long time, I believe several hours, because I had to leave the house for awhile. I'm sure the temp got down really low on that one. I did not notice any enhanced hop flavor so I generally keep it to 30 minutes. My brew day is long enough already.

I hear you about the long brew day! One thing I took from the Julius clone recipe, other than considering longer WPs at lower temps, is to keep stirring as much as possible to keep the hops in suspension and maximize extraction. I have been stirring every 5-10 minutes, but I think I will try to just keep gently stirring the whole time next time.

I am also with you on the temps. I have been going with 200 (a little after flameout) for the first, and then drop to 180 - 170 for the second. (Sometimes I have a small third at 165.)

Last time I made the middle drop the longest at 20 mins; altogether it was about 40 mins. Beer turned out fine, but still trying to figure out the timing that works best for both flavor and bitterness!

 

[ttuato]

Made a “kitchen sink” NEIPA today - used up all of my hop remnants. Knowing my luck it will be the best beer I have ever brewed...

B: Bravo
WP: Willow Creek, Sabro, Southern Passion
DH1: Meridian, Vic Secret, Sabro
DH2: Vic Secret, Meridian, Galaxy

 

[Hannabrew]

Made a “kitchen sink” NEIPA today - used up all of my hop remnants. Knowing my luck it will be the best beer I have ever brewed...

B: Bravo
WP: Willow Creek, Sabro, Southern Passion
DH1: Meridian, Vic Secret, Sabro
DH2: Vic Secret, Meridian, Galaxy

Wow, definitely difficult to repeat!

 

[SRJHops]

Wow, definitely difficult to repeat!

ttuato, good luck - let us know how it turns out! I haven't even heard of some of those hops! Willow Creek?!

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Willow Creek is a neomex from Colorado.

 

[Dgallo]

Willow Creek is a neomex from Colorado.

@marchuk96 shared this with me earlier in the year. This is a pretty sweet article about how that hop made its way to the mainstream and cultivation
https://beerandbrewing.com/the-hunt-for-wild-hops/

 

[tld6008]

@marchuk96 shared this with me earlier in the year. This is a pretty sweet article about how that hop made its way to the mainstream and cultivation
https://beerandbrewing.com/the-hunt-for-wild-hops/

Very interesting

 

[nick sekerak]

Ideally you should be dryhoppubg without a bag, then you can actually decrease the size of the total dryhop because of the increase in efficiency due to increased surface area.

Dry hopping not in a bag is something i have been scared to try. I have a fastferment conical, does anyone have tips on doing this or what methods work best for dry hopping without a bag. I am just worried about getting all the hops out when you dump the conical. I can never seem to empty the fast ferment 100% of all the trub/yeast when i try dumping it.

 

[tld6008]

Dry hopping not in a bag is something i have been scared to try. I have a fastferment conical, does anyone have tips on doing this or what methods work best for dry hopping without a bag. I am just worried about getting all the hops out when you dump the conical. I can never seem to empty the fast ferment 100% of all the trub/yeast when i try dumping it.

Then don't dump it all, Cold crash it to drop the hops. Free ranging hops are the way to get the best extraction.

 

[kevink]

I have a stainless conical and dump hops after crashing and they never all come out. There's always a ton left in there after kegging. It's even a pain with a rotating racking arm.

 

[ttuato]

Free float, cold crash for at least24hrs, Install a filter in your transfer line and discard the first few ounces that exposed to air in the line then proceed with transfer.

https://www.amazon.com/Line-Strainer-stainless-filter-screen/dp/B00CH2JSIY

I dryhop 1.5-2 oz per gallon. No more issues after I added the inline filter. If you don’t cold crash the filter will clog though.

Dry hopping not in a bag is something i have been scared to try. I have a fastferment conical, does anyone have tips on doing this or what methods work best for dry hopping without a bag. I am just worried about getting all the hops out when you dump the conical. I can never seem to empty the fast ferment 100% of all the trub/yeast when i try dumping it.

 

[kevink]

@ttuato, is it easy to get all of the air out of that filter during the transfer? I would be paranoid about a little air pocket "contaminating" all the beer that flows past it. I would love to try something like that but want to be sure that it's designed to push all air out quickly. I have a similar filter for a non-brewing related application, and there is one area in the filter that always has an air bubble hanging around in it no mattet what I do.

 

[ttuato]

yes. The design is such that the “in” port flows inside the filter and is placed lower than the “out” port , enabling all of the air to be evacuated. BUT the filter must be held upright at first to completely fill with beer and push out the air. After I discard thos first few ounces I just let the filter dangle free.

If you spund - Any “air” that forms inside after the flow starts is CO2 escaping from the beer due to decreased pressure from the inline filter. Dont worry about that “air”.

The OG inline filter is called “BouncerMD” lots of reviews on here, reddit, and amazon. The link I posted is a cheaper knockoff design.


FYI - I started a rigorous cold side lodo routine about 8 months, that included this filter tand have not had oxidations issues since. Using this filter eliminated having to stop transfers to clean clogged poppets/disconnects where I was getting some oxygen ingress in the past.

@ttuato, is it easy to get all of the air out of that filter during the transfer? I would be paranoid about a little air pocket "contaminating" all the beer that flows past it. I would love to try something like that but want to be sure that it's designed to push all air out quickly. I have a similar filter for a non-brewing related application, and there is one area in the filter that always has an air bubble hanging around in it no mattet what I do.

 

[tld6008]

I have a stainless conical and dump hops after crashing and they never all come out. There's always a ton left in there after kegging. It's even a pain with a rotating racking arm.

I can't imagine what is going on. I have never had a plugged poppit and all I do is cold crash to drop the hops, and there is no doubt that they drop, then pressure transfer with a racking cane. I can see where the bottom of the cane is in relation to the trub layer in the carboy. I initially set it up at 17" below the carboy cap, I push it to the side and adjust the depth when draining the last gallon to keep it from pulling debris off the bottom. In the end I have no more than a pint of beer above the trub, I also tilt the carboy about 10 deg. Seems very simple to me. My kicked kegs have very little debris in the bottoms, definitely not particulate matter.

 

[kevink]

Awesome info @ttuato. Thanks! Your link above was for the 50 mesh (0.012"). Based on your experience with that one, do you think the 20 mesh (0.036") filter will be enough? All I want this thing to do is prevent clogged poppets. I'm fine with particles larger than 0.036" getting into my kegs because my transfers generally run pretty free of hop debris, so there shouldn't be much getting in. It's just the beginning and end of the transfers that are pretty mudded up with hop debris.

 

[kevink]

I can't imagine what is going on. I have never had a plugged poppit and all I do is cold crash to drop the hops, and there is no doubt that they drop, then pressure transfer with a racking cane. I can see where the bottom of the cane is in relation to the trub layer in the carboy. I initially set it up at 17" below the carboy cap, I push it to the side and adjust the depth when draining the last gallon to keep it from pulling debris off the bottom. In the end I have no more than a pint of beer above the trub, I also tilt the carboy about 10 deg. Seems very simple to me. My kicked kegs have very little debris in the bottoms, definitely not particulate matter.

It is all very easy when you can see in the fermenter and you have a racking cane that you can move around! I used to do it your way. When in stainless, you can't see anything and you really can't adjust where it pulls from, so hop debris gets sucked up no matter what.