New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[SRJHops]

He is talking about oz per gal with those numbers ...not total oz of hops used in beer

Are you sure? We can let him answer, but he seemed to make a point about 2.5-3 ounces TOTAL.

Now, if it is 2.5-3 ounces per gallon, then sign me up! Everyone seems to think I am using too much, but my best NEIPA so far had 3 ounces per gallon. And I'm tempted to go a bit higher or use cryo for my next batch. (My current batch has 2.35 ounces per gallon, and while it is still maturing, my guess is it will be less flavorful -- but we'll see.)

 

[stickyfinger]

I don’t see any reason to keg hop. If you’re good at keep o2 pickup to a minimum you don’t need it. Personally I really don’t enjoy the flavor/aspect that it contributes to the final beer.

some people like the taste of hops added to the keg when it has cold carbonated beer in it. I also don’t enjoy that flavor. I think it’s a personal preference thing.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

I've been wanting to brew a NEIPA for a while; unfortunately I'm not set up for kegging yet and fears of oxidation are enough to avoid IPAs altogether until I build a keezer. How to commercial breweries manage to successfully package hoppy styles without oxidation?

Expensive canning systems that do a good job of limiting O2 during packaging

 

[Eltes]

Are you sure? We can let him answer, but he seemed to make a point about 2.5-3 ounces TOTAL.

Now, if it is 2.5-3 ounces per gallon, then sign me up! Everyone seems to think I am using too much, but my best NEIPA so far had 3 ounces per gallon. And I'm tempted to go a bit higher or use cryo for my next batch. (My current batch has 2.35 ounces per gallon, and while it is still maturing, my guess is it will be less flavorful -- but we'll see.)

The recipe by Scott Janish that featured in BYO lately had ~10 oz of hops in whirlpool and dry hopping.

 

[Dgallo]

Are you sure? We can let him answer, but he seemed to make a point about 2.5-3 ounces TOTAL.

Now, if it is 2.5-3 ounces per gallon, then sign me up! Everyone seems to think I am using too much, but my best NEIPA so far had 3 ounces per gallon. And I'm tempted to go a bit higher or use cryo for my next batch. (My current batch has 2.35 ounces per gallon, and while it is still maturing, my guess is it will be less flavorful -- but we'll see.)

Reread his post, he clearly states in both oz/gallon as total hop usage.

3-4oz/gal is TOTAL hops not just whirlpool or dryhop. I am at 2.5 - 3 total. Sapwood Cellars is at 1.2oz kettle & 2.1 oz dryhop / gal.

 

[SRJHops]

A good swirl would just resuspend shotty spent yeast into ur beer...would there be hope oils in with it...most likely but u would also be getting those oils mixed with the spent yeast flavor...If that's ur thing by all means go for it...I keg and my beer usually tastes great from the day I keg it to the last drop...the first few days might be a little hot with hops and then it settles in and for me I find it to get cleaner as time goes on...by that I mean hop flavor is more crisp and isn't muddled with any yeasty flavors...did some of that oil potentially flock with the yeast after all that time...probably but to no loss to flavor and aroma...and remeber kegged beer is kept cold and oxygen free the entire time...are you chilling all your bottles once carbed?..or are you just leaving them at room temp until ur ready to drink some and then put those 1 or 2 or however many into ur fridge to chill and then drink?...guaranteed there is also no one shaking there kegs to resuspend the yeast and hop oils from the bottom back into the beer...for this style the same would apply for bottled versions

Fair enough. I guess I always figure I'm drinking a fair amount of suspended yeast and hops and don't worry much about it.

I just read that Heady Topper (and maybe all/many NEIPAs?) will drop clear after a bit... So what is dropping in their beer? Isn't it yeast and hop particulates?

Interesting to hear that kegged NEIPA's are ready to drink so fast. Certainly not the case with bottled conditioned, at least not in my experience.

I am indeed letting the bottles carbonate and blend at 70 degrees. I only put them in the fridge the day before I drink them. I am fascinated that they taste best after 5-6 weeks in the bottle. Best guess is the active yeast is scrubbing the O2, and somehow the hops become more expressive too.

 

[SRJHops]

Reread his post, he clearly states in both oz/gallon as total hop usage.[/QU

So total of 2.5 - 3 ounces, right? Not 2.5-3 ounces per gallon?

It was confusing when it said 3-4 oz/gallon is Total. That reads as 3-4 ounces per gallon... but TOTAL modifies that..

 

[lupulinaddict]

It all depends on your yeast.

Kimmich recommends 45 for Conan
Lawson does 55/58 for 1056/001
Chad Yak from CS does only 2-3c for his yeast
LAIII I do 55ish
1098 60 works
Melvin goes from 70 -> 60 for 001
Aslin I think said 55 for what they’re using.

Give it 24 hours at that temp, harvest as much yeast as possible. I usually Let it warm back up to 60-63 during fist day of DH. I know quite a few brewers who will split the dry hop into two additions even after fermentation. Theory there is that the first dose of hops will create additional flocculation and so by splitting you get more potency out of the second dose as there’s even less yeast in suspension.

Thanks for posting this. Taking a screenshot for future use.

What is the reason for going to these cooler temps and then back up? Wouldn’t crashing first remove more yeast? Ferment, crash, harvest, then back to 50-60 range?

Now what do I do with kveik? [emoji848]

 

[NickC]

So total of 2.5 - 3 ounces, right? Not 2.5-3 ounces per gallon?

It was confusing when it said 3-4 oz/gallon is Total. That reads as 3-4 ounces per gallon... but TOTAL modifies that..

Total for whirlpool and dryhop... per gal

 

[Dgallo]

Thanks for posting this. Taking a screenshot for future use.

What is the reason for going to these cooler temps and then back up? Wouldn’t crashing first remove more yeast? Ferment, crash, harvest, then back to 50-60 range?

Now what do I do with kveik? [emoji848]

Don’t want to steal @couchsending question, but warming it before dryhopping will help with extraction time. Extraction time and temp have a positive correlation.

 

[lupulinaddict]

Don’t want to steal @couchsending question, but warming it before dryhopping will help with extraction time. Extraction time and temp have a positive correlation.

Agreed. But why the warmer temps to drop the yeast instead of a hard crash?

 

[VirginiaHops1]

Agreed. But why the warmer temps to drop the yeast instead of a hard crash?

Probably because getting into the 50s is good enough to drop ale yeast once fermentation is done so why spend the extra time going all the way down to near freezing and then back up. Commercial brewers are dealing with massive amounts of liquid that take a lot of energy to heat or cool. As homebrewers it's much easier to crash lower, but not sure it's necessary.

 

[Dgallo]

Agreed. But why the warmer temps to drop the yeast instead of a hard crash?

Got you. The yeast can drop at warmer temps so it speeds up the process. Easier to drop and warm back up 12-20 degrees than to go all the to mid/low 30s bad back up. Also the negative pressure or suction is much great at the lower temps so oxygen can be a bigger issue

 

[lupulinaddict]

Thanks guys. I figured it was related to a time/energy for breweries, but thought I’d ask to see if I was missing something.

 

[marchuk96]

Fair enough. I guess I always figure I'm drinking a fair amount of suspended yeast and hops and don't worry much about it.

I just read that Heady Topper (and maybe all/many NEIPAs?) will drop clear after a bit... So what is dropping in their beer? Isn't it yeast and hop particulates?

Interesting to hear that kegged NEIPA's are ready to drink so fast. Certainly not the case with bottled conditioned, at least not in my experience.

I am indeed letting the bottles carbonate and blend at 70 degrees. I only put them in the fridge the day before I drink them. I am fascinated that they taste best after 5-6 weeks in the bottle. Best guess is the active yeast is scrubbing the O2, and somehow the hops become more expressive too.

Fair enough. I guess I always figure I'm drinking a fair amount of suspended yeast and hops and don't worry much about it.

I just read that Heady Topper (and maybe all/many NEIPAs?) will drop clear after a bit... So what is dropping in their beer? Isn't it yeast and hop particulates?

Interesting to hear that kegged NEIPA's are ready to drink so fast. Certainly not the case with bottled conditioned, at least not in my experience.

I am indeed letting the bottles carbonate and blend at 70 degrees. I only put them in the fridge the day before I drink them. I am fascinated that they taste best after 5-6 weeks in the bottle. Best guess is the active yeast is scrubbing the O2, and somehow the hops become more expressive too.

Read this...I disagree with the good news results solely based on my old findings in the past when I used to bottle..take it for what its worth....https://www.beercraftr.com/bottle-conditioning-new-england-ipa/

 

[optimal_pizza]

Here's my attempt with some inspiration from the @Dgallo recipe a few pages back. That Caramunich addition really brings out the orange-y color. Unfortunately I only got a few pours before my picnic tap broke
80% Golden Promise
8% White Wheat
8% Flaked Wheat
4% Caramunich I
Mosaic / Citra / Strata at flameout / 150 degree whirlpool / dryhop
Imperial Juice

 

[SRJHops]

Read this...I disagree with the good news results solely based on my old findings in the past when I used to bottle..take it for what its worth....https://www.beercraftr.com/bottle-conditioning-new-england-ipa/

Good reading -- thanks for sharing. As I've mentioned, I'm obsessed with limiting oxygen exposure. I only open the fermenter twice -- once on Day 2 for the dry hop during active fermentation, and again 3 days before bottling for the second dry hop (and purge with gas). I bottle right from the fermenter into bombers with sugar tabs.

I can't tell if the author of the article did all of those steps, but something tells me he didn't. I do disagree with him on the need to chill the bottles so fast. In my experience using the techniques to limit oxygen exposure, it's not necessary. I don't find that my NEIPA's are degrading that fast. I keep them warm and put one in the fridge each day. My newest one is on week 3 in the bottle and it's only now starting to get good. My bet is it will peak in 3 more weeks.

It certainly is possible that my beers are a little darker, as the Brulsophy experiment showed, but I can't taste oxidation until well after 2 months. Before I became obsessed with limiting oxygen, I made several brown/grey NEIPA's!

 

[marchuk96]

Here's my attempt with some inspiration from the @Dgallo recipe a few pages back. That Caramunich addition really brings out the orange-y color. Unfortunately I only got a few pours before my picnic tap broke
80% Golden Promise
8% White Wheat
8% Flaked Wheat
4% Caramunich I
Mosaic / Citra / Strata at flameout / 150 degree whirlpool / dryhop
Imperial Juice

View attachment 619518

Beautiful!!

 

[MaCheFai]

I don’t see any reason to keg hop. If you’re good at keep o2 pickup to a minimum you don’t need it. Personally I really don’t enjoy the flavor/aspect that it contributes to the final beer.

I've done both and don't really notice much(if any) difference/gain to keg hopping. And my kegs never last more than a week, so not worried about any off flavors from the hops.

I was referring to your previous post though about dry hopping after dropping the yeast. Seems like that's pretty similar to just keg hopping, but saving some time and possibly O2 exposure. Unless I'm missing something to your process. So was curious to get a better understanding to how you're suggesting to DH after dropping out.

 

[couchsending]

I've done both and don't really notice much(if any) difference/gain to keg hopping. And my kegs never last more than a week, so not worried about any off flavors from the hops.

I was referring to your previous post though about dry hopping after dropping the yeast. Seems like that's pretty similar to just keg hopping, but saving some time and possibly O2 exposure. Unless I'm missing something to your process. So was curious to get a better understanding to how you're suggesting to DH after dropping out.

I cool to 55/60, wait 24 hours, pull yeast, add dry hops with a funnel through the 1.5” TC port on the top of my conical. Purge headspace. Wait 4 days, cool as low as possible while still maintaining head pressure, wait 48 hours and dump yeast/hops a few times over those 48 hours. Transfer to a keg and carbonate either by krausening or force carb.

 

[Dgallo]

Here's my attempt with some inspiration from the @Dgallo recipe a few pages back. That Caramunich addition really brings out the orange-y color. Unfortunately I only got a few pours before my picnic tap broke
80% Golden Promise
8% White Wheat
8% Flaked Wheat
4% Caramunich I
Mosaic / Citra / Strata at flameout / 150 degree whirlpool / dryhop
Imperial Juice

View attachment 619518

Looks great man. Did the Munich come through in flavor?

 

[optimal_pizza]

Looks great man. Did the Munich come through in flavor?

Thanks! I don't think so, but again I only got a few pours before my picnic tap broke.

 

[Dgallo]

Thanks! I don't think so, but again I only got a few pours before my picnic tap broke.

Gotcha. I was just wondering. I only get a very subtle. I bet it will come through a tad when the beer it’s its prime.

 

[marchuk96]

Good reading -- thanks for sharing. As I've mentioned, I'm obsessed with limiting oxygen exposure. I only open the fermenter twice -- once on Day 2 for the dry hop during active fermentation, and again 3 days before bottling for the second dry hop (and purge with gas). I bottle right from the fermenter into bombers with sugar tabs.

I can't tell if the author of the article did all of those steps, but something tells me he didn't. I do disagree with him on the need to chill the bottles so fast. In my experience using the techniques to limit oxygen exposure, it's not necessary. I don't find that my NEIPA's are degrading that fast. I keep them warm and put one in the fridge each day. My newest one is on week 3 in the bottle and it's only now starting to get good. My bet is it will peak in 3 more weeks.

It certainly is possible that my beers are a little darker, as the Brulsophy experiment showed, but I can't taste oxidation until well after 2 months. Before I became obsessed with limiting oxygen, I made several brown/grey NEIPA's!

At this point..it seems as if any info given to you is just pushed to the curb...this is a place to give honest feedback to one another to make improvements and make us better..it seems that by your multiple posts of the same thing over and over again you are un willing to take positive feedback and apply what we have all experienced and apply what most have us have researched and trialed to heart...and that's fine...keep doing what u think works best for you and keep making and wasting money in ipas that will never be what u want then to be because you don't want to change or take any advice...sorry if this is harsh but I feel like you need to hear this in order to allow yourself to get better...stop relying on what hasn't worked...push forward already bro...be open to critism and change and switch things up...keep trying different things that you feel willwork or what many have suggested...that's how a lot of us got where we are...again sorry for the harsh words...I just want u to finally grab a hold of the unicorn and pump out a killer ipa

 

[SRJHops]

At this point..it seems as if any info given to you is just pushed to the curb...this is a place to give honest feedback to one another to make improvements and make us better..it seems that by your multiple posts of the same thing over and over again you are un willing to take positive feedback and apply what we have all experienced and apply what most have us have researched and trialed to heart...and that's fine...keep doing what u think works best for you and keep making and wasting money in ipas that will never be what u want then to be because you don't want to change or take any advice...sorry if this is harsh but I feel like you need to hear this in order to allow yourself to get better...stop relying on what hasn't worked...push forward already bro...be open to critism and change and switch things up...keep trying different things that you feel willwork or what many have suggested...that's how a lot of us got where we are...again sorry for the harsh words...I just want u to finally grab a hold of the unicorn and pump out a killer ipa

Dude, yes too harsh. Just cuz I ask questions, challenge beliefs, don't agree with you, or advocate for another viewpoint doesn't mean you have to attack me.

For all you know, my NEIPA is awesome. Or maybe it's not. Maybe yours sucks. Or maybe it's the best one in the nation. But one thing is certain, there are a lot of opinions and differing viewpoints, and nobody has all the answers. If you think you do, then you are the problem.

 

[Sbe2]

When y’all are dumping yeast, what is your process?

I have a spike conical and when I open the 2” butterfly valve on the bottom I think I am punching a hole in the cone. I am thinking I need to add a reducer to slow the flow or perhaps add a yeast brink.

 

[Blazinlow86]

When y’all are dumping yeast, what is your process?

I have a spike conical and when I open the 2” butterfly valve on the bottom I think I am punching a hole in the cone. I am thinking I need to add a reducer to slow the flow or perhaps add a yeast brink.

Oh your definitely gonna need a fitting and a smaller hose and even then I only open it till the first notch and that can still blow thru quick if your not dilligent. Off the top of my head I can't remember the barb size but I have the spike one that fits my silicone brew hoses possible 5/8? I found dumping prior to cold crashing wasted alot of good beer so I only dump after cold crashing prior to carbonating and have about 10 psi on the tank during the dump. I overbuilt my yeast starters so collecting the dirty yeast isn't a issue for me. Cheers

 

[NickC]

Dude, yes too harsh. Just cuz I ask questions, challenge beliefs, don't agree with you, or advocate for another viewpoint doesn't mean you have to attack me.

For all you know, my NEIPA is awesome. Or maybe it's not. Maybe yours sucks. Or maybe it's the best one in the nation. But one thing is certain, there are a lot of opinions and differing viewpoints, and nobody has all the answers. If you think you do, then you are the problem.

Don’t recall every single one of your posts, but yea marchuks comment was unnecessary. I do bet that most of us think you’re crazy to keep bottling the style, but do your thing brotha

 

[marchuk96]

Dude, yes too harsh. Just cuz I ask questions, challenge beliefs, don't agree with you, or advocate for another viewpoint doesn't mean you have to attack me.

For all you know, my NEIPA is awesome. Or maybe it's not. Maybe yours sucks. Or maybe it's the best one in the nation. But one thing is certain, there are a lot of opinions and differing viewpoints, and nobody has all the answers. If you think you do, then you are the problem.

I'm not trying to atack you nor am i asking you to agree with me cause I too have a lot to learn...and i don't think I have the best Ipa or you have the worst man ...do I think I have all the answers..no but I think we all can learn from this forum and need to keep an open mind and be open to critique and new ways of doing things.......that is my point...i certainly dont have all the answers..but I also certainly think this is the best outpost for us to learn...I post what I do and my own personal exp to try and help others and learn from what others have had success at.....not to degrate it...and not to take away from what u do or anyone else.. .....I am simply trying to help...sorry if it doesn't seem that way...but that is my intent...plain and simple...if u want a different result...u need to change how u approach it...if u don't have that kind of attitude your beer will never change...and neither will ur result...

 

[VirginiaHops1]

Is SRJHops unhappy with his NEIPA? It seems like he's satisfied with the results from his posts I've seen, so that's all that really matters. I stopped bottling for the most part because my beer shelf life was bad and I had lots of oxidation so I would never try to bottle this style but to each their own. Taste is subjective and until we go pro we only really have to worry about making beer we like, not anyone else