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New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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Here's my 2 cents. 1st I'm still working on achieving a great NEIPA so I can only relate to others' process success. 2nd Ive had Dgallo's. That was the absolute cleanest and best balanced hb NEIPA I've ever had, not even a close 2nd!

There's so much chatter here about how great our own beer is and perfect our process is yet he was the only one willing to share. If everyone shared a bottle with others, think there would be less talk and more "proof in the pudding". Carry on..
 
You can absolutely replicate the quality at the homebrewer level. So that I’m talking about my own beers, I had many of @marchuk96 ipas and he consistently beats many commercial breweries. Also I’ve had @ttuato NE and it was honestly on the same level as the commercial beer we try to imitate.

It sounded like he was referring to hop utilization efficiency, not overall quality. I don't know if their systems are able to get better utilization but it wouldn't surprise me. In terms of overall quality it is definitely achievable especially considering I've been very unimpressed with many commercial examples.
 
Here's my 2 cents. 1st I'm still working on achieving a great NEIPA so I can only relate to others' process success. 2nd Ive had Dgallo's. That was the absolute cleanest and best balanced hb NEIPA I've ever had, not even a close 2nd!

There's so much chatter here about how great our own beer is and perfect our process is yet he was the only one willing to share. If everyone shared a bottle with others, think there would be less talk and more "proof in the pudding". Carry on..

If anybody is up to trade I'd be all about it! I don't have any active homebrewer friends in my area. My bro in law used to brew, but doesn't any longer. For what it's worth, I don't use any fruit or lactose or anything else in my IPAs. Kettle sours, on the other hand, are a completely different story. Have one in the fermentor now that had a healthy dose of El Dorado in the whirl and will be getting passion fruit and pineapple before packaging.
 
It sounded like he was referring to hop utilization efficiency, not overall quality. I don't know if their systems are able to get better utilization but it wouldn't surprise me. In terms of overall quality it is definitely achievable especially considering I've been very unimpressed with many commercial examples.
I did not think he was referring to efficiency of utilization. If he was than he is absolutely correct we can not replicate that at the 5-10gallon size due to pure volume restraints. But efficiency doesn’t matter at the homebrew scale as much commercial. Don’t get me wrong, we all want to be as efficient as possible, but in the mash if we are at 65% brew house efficiency and have to buy an extra lb or two of grain not so big a deal. But on a 15 bbl system when your dealing with over 700lbs of grain—much bigger monetary issue to miss on effiency.
 
I have used 20 oz total in a 5 gallon batch.

Also, I know you go to great lengths to bottle your hoppy beers as responsibly as possible, but I promise you that the oxygen exposure is degrading your hop presence, even if only a little. Coming from someone who went from bottle conditioning, to open transfers to a keg and force carbing, to now completely closed fermentation and transfers, there is a noticeable difference.
.

I can't comment on whether my beers would be better if they were kegged (probably?), but I can say that I don't think bottling (they low oxygen way) is a problem for me. In fact, I am starting to wonder if it has any advantages? I opened a 2-month old bomber last night (6 gallons, 18 ounces of citra, galaxy, mosaic) and hot-damn if it wasn't at least on the road to Toppling Goliath quality. I can't explain it, but my NEIPA's seem to peak at week 7 or 8 in the bottle.

I do think process can always be improved upon, though, so that is what I'm looking at, even more than amount of hops (though I am curious about that).

For the beer that is still conditioning, I did adjust the water for the first time ever, reduced the hops, and reduced the whirlpool length (because Janish doesn't seem to have very long ones). But I still spit the hops 50-50 cold side/hot side, and I also did the second dry-hop when the beer was cold crashing (I have since learned from Dgallo that I should warm the beer back up). So, I have more processes to dial in for sure...

So, the question on the table -- which seems to be what most folks are saying -- is that if I can get my processes all totally dialed in, I should be able to reduce the hop amounts.

I'll also see what I think about my current beer in a few weeks when it peaks. I might come back and be a "less is more" believer!
 
So your water numbers look OK...what did you use to achieve them?? And could you better describe "chemical" flavor...did you use campden tablet? In the past i know you have mentioned you use a filter but again you dont know to what extent that filter is doing for chlorine levels...it could also just be a mental thing...as far as more is more...I def. believe the opposite is true...or at least there is a sweet spot...for the 5-6 gal batch range I believe that to be between 8-12 oz...I just made a single hope "pale ale" with only 8 oz and came off more IPA like than pale ale like...I just believe you get a much more definitive less muddled representation with amounts in that range as opposed to the 1lb + quantities...and finally as far as crashing...I believe it to be a must...I agree that suck back is an issue but if you have a way to prevent it than I think you have to crash...everything just flocks to the bottom giving you a much cleaner product when packaging...I am able to just push co2 into my fermonster threw my bung so I usually crash for a day and package right from there leaving co2 on the whole time till the fermentor is empty and in my keg...

I'll try another bottle tonight (still won't be fully carbed), but the one I tried the other night made me indeed wonder if my filter had stopped removing the chlorine. I didn't notice it with my last batch (I had some of that last night), so I assumed it was the chemicals I added. But I think I will buy a new filter just in case, and maybe toss in 1/4 campden next time for good measure.

I'm sure we're on same page, but I'm shooting for a very very juicy NEIPA, like the best ones from Toppling Goliath. No offense to anyone, but I find it hard to believe a great juicy NEIPA can be made with less than 12 ounces in a 6-gallon batch. Happy to be wrong, though.
 
I'll try another bottle tonight (still won't be fully carbed), but the one I tried the other night made me indeed wonder if my filter had stopped removing the chlorine. I didn't notice it with my last batch (I had some of that last night), so I assumed it was the chemicals I added. But I think I will buy a new filter just in case, and maybe toss in 1/4 campden next time for good measure.

I'm sure we're on same page, but I'm shooting for a very very juicy NEIPA, like the best ones from Toppling Goliath. No offense to anyone, but I find it hard to believe a great juicy NEIPA can be made with less than 12 ounces in a 6-gallon batch. Happy to be wrong, though.
I’m gunna send you a beer. PM me your addres
 
I’m gunna send you a beer. PM me your addres
Are you bottling from your kegerator? If so what’s your method? I just noticed the wolf hollow glass you posted, saw the town name, and looked it up. It looks like they’re very close to the route I take to go to Sacandaga. I’ll have to stop by there next time I head up.
 
Here's my 2 cents. 1st I'm still working on achieving a great NEIPA so I can only relate to others' process success. 2nd Ive had Dgallo's. That was the absolute cleanest and best balanced hb NEIPA I've ever had, not even a close 2nd!

There's so much chatter here about how great our own beer is and perfect our process is yet he was the only one willing to share. If everyone shared a bottle with others, think there would be less talk and more "proof in the pudding". Carry on..

Should have sent one down to our rental house last week, then invited you over! For the record, I'm willing to share, and don't think I'm there yet with my processes or my beer. So much to learn!

But I do often wonder about the difference between what I am drinking and what others are drinking. I've had a ton of local, regional, and national NEIPA's, and most aren't that great. The best ones I've found are local (Fair State, Barrel Theory, Modist, Lupulin), with the notable exception of the awesome Toppling Goliath (regional).
 
Are you bottling from your kegerator? If so what’s your method? I just noticed the wolf hollow glass you posted, saw the town name, and looked it up. It looks like they’re very close to the route I take to go to Sacandaga. I’ll have to stop by there next time I head up.
Wolf hollow has a few really solid beers. Great American ipa, Black IPA, and porter. Really good atmosphere too.

My bottling process is certainly not the best. I will purge a bottled with co2. Then fill the bottle from the tap with low pressure to minimize splashing and fill it to the top and cap it to minimize as much headspace as I can. A beer gun would certainly be the better option but I don’t bottle beers often so I cant justify the purchase of that piece of equipment.
 
If anybody is up to trade I'd be all about it! I don't have any active homebrewer friends in my area. My bro in law used to brew, but doesn't any longer. For what it's worth, I don't use any fruit or lactose or anything else in my IPAs. Kettle sours, on the other hand, are a completely different story. Have one in the fermentor now that had a healthy dose of El Dorado in the whirl and will be getting passion fruit and pineapple before packaging.
Here's the home brew trade thread set up a while back. Next one should be starting in a month or so I'd guess. Our offerings are 4-12oz bottles min, more if one choses. Some dudes out there make great stuff just not neipas. [emoji3] If you just want to trade neipas this wouldn't be for you.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/index.php?threads/660812/
 
Sounds good, I’m definitely going to stop in there at some point once the camp gets opened up. I see there’s a brewery opening up right by the lake too. I’m going to brew a blonde ale next week, I’ll mess around with filling bottles once I get that kegged
 
This beer just got 3rd out of 105 entries in the Reuben’s Hop Idol comp. haven’t received a score sheet back yet. It’s good but a few tweaks definitely would have made it better. This has been in the keg for 5 weeks with 10 of those days being at 31*. Permanent haze stability and no loss in aroma or hop impact. Below is the recipe with all processes laid out if anyone cares. Including the subtle tweaks to make it better.

6 gallons into the FV

1.062
10# Rahr 2 Row
4# Admiral Maltings Gallagher Pale
12oz Weyermann Carafoam
5oz Honey Malt
4oz Acidulated
Imperial Tartan yeast

Mash pH 5.34
Sparge pH 5.3

Water Profile:
Ca: 85
Mg: 6
Na: 30
So4: 155
Cl: 86.7

RO water. Salts added to Mash and sparge except sparge gypsum which was added to kettle.


75 min @149 (this was a mistake)
30 min @ 162

Kettle Full pH 5.4
2ml lactic @ 60
3ml lactic @ FO

90 minute Boil
4ml hop shot @ 60
1oz Calypso @ 10
2oz Southern Passion @ FO (200f)
2oz Galaxy @ FO (200f)
1oz Nugget @ 170
WP 20
PH into FV 5.06

BTB in Mash
1/2 tab whirlfloc in kettle
1 servomyces capsule

Added the hops at FO but instantly cooled to 170 with immersion chiller. Added Nugget at 170. WP for 20.

Targeted an est .75mil/ml/*plato
2 min O2 at .5ml/sec



Pitched 2/5 @ 62, fermented 66, raised to 70 on day 4 or 5.

I attach the pressure transfer fitting that’s hooked up to Co2 on a manifold for the last 1-2 Plato of fermentation. It helps to maintain positive pressure when soft cooling.

Cooled to 60 on day 6 after forced diacetyl test.

Left for 24 hours at 60.

Pulled as much yeast as possible. Tartan floccs really well so it was a ton of yeast and the beer was very clear.

Dry Hop:
5oz Southern Passion
2oz Galaxy
2oz Sabro

Just pull the pressure transfer piece and pour em in with a funnel. Attach the pressure transfer piece again and purge the head space a few times. Leave with 2.5 psi head pressure.

3 days at 60*

Cool to 45 for 36 hours.

Transfer to an O2 purged keg. Carbed at 31* for 10 days.

Issue with the beer was the mash temp. I’ve struggled to get tartan to attenuate in the past. I was targeting 1.014 and got 1.0095. The resulting beer was a little too dry and the water profiles/bitterness were out of balance. Also only half the dry hops even made it into the beer. I have the SS brewtech conicals and so often a pile of the hops get lodged into the cooling coil and never make it into the beer. Hop flavor suffered a bit. So a little more hop flavor and a little more body and this would be pretty spot on. The Southern Passion hops also aren’t that potent. I wouldn’t make it again with them but they weren’t horrible. Sabro and Galaxy are so strong they over power everything anyways.

847E702B-70DF-4E84-942E-D92642849C77.jpeg
 
This beer just got 3rd out of 105 entries in the Reuben’s Hop Idol comp. haven’t received a score sheet back yet. It’s good but a few tweaks definitely would have made it better. This has been in the keg for 5 weeks with 10 of those days being at 31*. Permanent haze stability and no loss in aroma or hop impact. Below is the recipe with all processes laid out if anyone cares. Including the subtle tweaks to make it better.

6 gallons into the FV

1.062
10# Rahr 2 Row
4# Admiral Maltings Gallagher Pale
12oz Weyermann Carafoam
5oz Honey Malt
4oz Acidulated
Imperial Tartan yeast

Mash pH 5.34
Sparge pH 5.3

Water Profile:
Ca: 85
Mg: 6
Na: 30
So4: 155
Cl: 86.7

RO water. Salts added to Mash and sparge except sparge gypsum which was added to kettle.


75 min @149 (this was a mistake)
30 min @ 162

Kettle Full pH 5.4
2ml lactic @ 60
3ml lactic @ FO

90 minute Boil
4ml hop shot @ 60
1oz Calypso @ 10
2oz Southern Passion @ FO (200f)
2oz Galaxy @ FO (200f)
1oz Nugget @ 170
WP 20
PH into FV 5.06

BTB in Mash
1/2 tab whirlfloc in kettle
1 servomyces capsule

Added the hops at FO but instantly cooled to 170 with immersion chiller. Added Nugget at 170. WP for 20.

Targeted an est .75mil/ml/*plato
2 min O2 at .5ml/sec



Pitched 2/5 @ 62, fermented 66, raised to 70 on day 4 or 5.

I attach the pressure transfer fitting that’s hooked up to Co2 on a manifold for the last 1-2 Plato of fermentation. It helps to maintain positive pressure when soft cooling.

Cooled to 60 on day 6 after forced diacetyl test.

Left for 24 hours at 60.

Pulled as much yeast as possible. Tartan floccs really well so it was a ton of yeast and the beer was very clear.

Dry Hop:
5oz Southern Passion
2oz Galaxy
2oz Sabro

Just pull the pressure transfer piece and pour em in with a funnel. Attach the pressure transfer piece again and purge the head space a few times. Leave with 2.5 psi head pressure.

3 days at 60*

Cool to 45 for 36 hours.

Transfer to an O2 purged keg. Carbed at 31* for 10 days.

Issue with the beer was the mash temp. I’ve struggled to get tartan to attenuate in the past. I was targeting 1.014 and got 1.0095. The resulting beer was a little too dry and the water profiles/bitterness were out of balance. Also only half the dry hops even made it into the beer. I have the SS brewtech conicals and so often a pile of the hops get lodged into the cooling coil and never make it into the beer. Hop flavor suffered a bit. So a little more hop flavor and a little more body and this would be pretty spot on. The Southern Passion hops also aren’t that potent. I wouldn’t make it again with them but they weren’t horrible. Sabro and Galaxy are so strong they over power everything anyways.

View attachment 618680
Definitely an interesting combo of hops...I've used one of the experimental south african hops before on its own with good results...it did need a companion though...great looking beer though
 
@couchsending Thanks for the info on the Southern Passion. I'm keen to try out some of the now available South African hops, but haven't gotten around to purchasing any yet.
 
This beer just got 3rd out of 105 entries in the Reuben’s Hop Idol comp. haven’t received a score sheet back yet. It’s good but a few tweaks definitely would have made it better. This has been in the keg for 5 weeks with 10 of those days being at 31*. Permanent haze stability and no loss in aroma or hop impact. Below is the recipe with all processes laid out if anyone cares. Including the subtle tweaks to make it better.

6 gallons into the FV

1.062
10# Rahr 2 Row
4# Admiral Maltings Gallagher Pale
12oz Weyermann Carafoam
5oz Honey Malt
4oz Acidulated
Imperial Tartan yeast

Mash pH 5.34
Sparge pH 5.3

Water Profile:
Ca: 85
Mg: 6
Na: 30
So4: 155
Cl: 86.7

RO water. Salts added to Mash and sparge except sparge gypsum which was added to kettle.


75 min @149 (this was a mistake)
30 min @ 162

Kettle Full pH 5.4
2ml lactic @ 60
3ml lactic @ FO

90 minute Boil
4ml hop shot @ 60
1oz Calypso @ 10
2oz Southern Passion @ FO (200f)
2oz Galaxy @ FO (200f)
1oz Nugget @ 170
WP 20
PH into FV 5.06

BTB in Mash
1/2 tab whirlfloc in kettle
1 servomyces capsule

Added the hops at FO but instantly cooled to 170 with immersion chiller. Added Nugget at 170. WP for 20.

Targeted an est .75mil/ml/*plato
2 min O2 at .5ml/sec



Pitched 2/5 @ 62, fermented 66, raised to 70 on day 4 or 5.

I attach the pressure transfer fitting that’s hooked up to Co2 on a manifold for the last 1-2 Plato of fermentation. It helps to maintain positive pressure when soft cooling.

Cooled to 60 on day 6 after forced diacetyl test.

Left for 24 hours at 60.

Pulled as much yeast as possible. Tartan floccs really well so it was a ton of yeast and the beer was very clear.

Dry Hop:
5oz Southern Passion
2oz Galaxy
2oz Sabro

Just pull the pressure transfer piece and pour em in with a funnel. Attach the pressure transfer piece again and purge the head space a few times. Leave with 2.5 psi head pressure.

3 days at 60*

Cool to 45 for 36 hours.

Transfer to an O2 purged keg. Carbed at 31* for 10 days.

Issue with the beer was the mash temp. I’ve struggled to get tartan to attenuate in the past. I was targeting 1.014 and got 1.0095. The resulting beer was a little too dry and the water profiles/bitterness were out of balance. Also only half the dry hops even made it into the beer. I have the SS brewtech conicals and so often a pile of the hops get lodged into the cooling coil and never make it into the beer. Hop flavor suffered a bit. So a little more hop flavor and a little more body and this would be pretty spot on. The Southern Passion hops also aren’t that potent. I wouldn’t make it again with them but they weren’t horrible. Sabro and Galaxy are so strong they over power everything anyways.

View attachment 618680

Looks tasty! I'm curious about your water profile. Do you like having the SO at that higher level than the CL? It seems like a lot of people suggest the other way around, with CL at 150 and SO at 75. As you know, I am just starting to learn about water, so interested to hear your experience/thoughts.

Also interested in the 90 minute boil - why 90 instead of 60 (or even 30)?
 
@couchsending Thanks for the info on the Southern Passion. I'm keen to try out some of the now available South African hops, but haven't gotten around to purchasing any yet.
They are quite pricey...I have heard good things and some of the descriptors are amazing...I used u1/108exp...available from northern brewer...it was real nice but I felt it needed a partner...I used 8 oz in a 5 .5 gal batch...interested in southern star
 
Looks tasty! I'm curious about your water profile. Do you like having the SO at that higher level than the CL? It seems like a lot of people suggest the other way around, with CL at 150 and SO at 75. As you know, I am just starting to learn about water, so interested to hear your experience/thoughts.

Also interested in the 90 minute boil - why 90 instead of 60 (or even 30)?

I do not enjoy beers high in CL, nor do I think many of the best examples of the style use lots of CaCl, but plenty of the crappy ones do.

I always boil for 90. I also live at 7000 feet so my boil temp is 201*. The half life of the DMS precursor is twice as long at that temp.
 
They are quite pricey...I have heard good things and some of the descriptors are amazing...I used u1/108exp...available from northern brewer...it was real nice but I felt it needed a partner...I used 8 oz in a 5 .5 gal batch...interested in southern star

The ones I’ve gotten from both Farmhouse and YVH have been pretty meh. Not that punchy at all. Amazed me that there was such an influx this year. I guess they opened the growing up to more farms than the ABInBev controlled ones so this was first year harvest for quite a few. Who knows they might get better.

I’m going to make this again with some 06297 (Lotus) instead of Southern Passion and drop the Sabro down another notch.
 
246BD576-FF04-4E7E-8EB6-79075547EF79.jpeg

So I used this recipe (with some tweaks)and the wealth of info in the thread to create this beer. It was my first time kegging and first time using water additions. Those two changes made a enormous improvement in my beer. It actually taste like beer now, no off flavors.
-I mirrored the water profile from the original recipe off this thread . (5 gal)
-Used 50-50 Maris otter / 2 row
-Used no adjuncts
-Wyeast 1318
-3oz strata- 1 oz Citra whirlpool 185
-Dry hop 2 days Citra/strata/el dorado (4oz total)
-dry hop day 6 Strata/Citra/el dorado (5oz total)
- Strata was the dominant hop in this one
-closed transfer keg on day 8
3 days in the keg and it’s tasting great today!
First beer I’ve made that I am proud of. I love how it has that glow, even indoors in low light. No need to put it in the sun when taking a pic.
Bursting with melon/peach/citrus flavors and aroma.
For those of you not making water additions, it’s a piece of cake! And what a difference it makes.
Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread and forum!
 
View attachment 618687
So I used this recipe (with some tweaks)and the wealth of info in the thread to create this beer. It was my first time kegging and first time using water additions. Those two changes made a enormous improvement in my beer. It actually taste like beer now, no off flavors.
-I mirrored the water profile from the original recipe off this thread . (5 gal)
-Used 50-50 Maris otter / 2 row
-Used no adjuncts
-Wyeast 1318
-3oz strata- 1 oz Citra whirlpool 185
-Dry hop 2 days Citra/strata/el dorado (4oz total)
-dry hop day 6 Strata/Citra/el dorado (5oz total)
- Strata was the dominant hop in this one
-closed transfer keg on day 8
3 days in the keg and it’s tasting great today!
First beer I’ve made that I am proud of. I love how it has that glow, even indoors in low light. No need to put it in the sun when taking a pic.
Bursting with melon/peach/citrus flavors and aroma.
For those of you not making water additions, it’s a piece of cake! And what a difference it makes.
Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread and forum!
The sun or a light is reflecting on the glass..... lol beer looks good though man
 
The sun or a light is reflecting on the glass..... lol beer looks good though man
Thanks! What I mean is that I don’t have to put the beer in direct sunlight like I usually do. Typically I need to hold the glass up to the sun or it looks brown in photos.
 
View attachment 618687
So I used this recipe (with some tweaks)and the wealth of info in the thread to create this beer. It was my first time kegging and first time using water additions. Those two changes made a enormous improvement in my beer. It actually taste like beer now, no off flavors.
-I mirrored the water profile from the original recipe off this thread . (5 gal)
-Used 50-50 Maris otter / 2 row
-Used no adjuncts
-Wyeast 1318
-3oz strata- 1 oz Citra whirlpool 185
-Dry hop 2 days Citra/strata/el dorado (4oz total)
-dry hop day 6 Strata/Citra/el dorado (5oz total)
- Strata was the dominant hop in this one
-closed transfer keg on day 8
3 days in the keg and it’s tasting great today!
First beer I’ve made that I am proud of. I love how it has that glow, even indoors in low light. No need to put it in the sun when taking a pic.
Bursting with melon/peach/citrus flavors and aroma.
For those of you not making water additions, it’s a piece of cake! And what a difference it makes.
Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread and forum!

Looks great! Could you share your water addition totals for Ca, Cl, and So? The OP has a couple different water profiles, depending on which one you look at. I think one was close to 50-50 Cl to So, while another one favored the Cl a bit.

Been thinking of trying Strata. What do you think of it?
 
0817B456-B97A-4F82-8FB9-E582D5971923.png
Looks great! Could you share your water addition totals for Ca, Cl, and So? The OP has a couple different water profiles, depending on which one you look at. I think one was close to 50-50 Cl to So, while another one favored the Cl a bit.

Been thinking of trying Strata. What do you think of it?
Thanks . The addition in the pic got me really close to the water profile that the op originally posted. I used RO water I bought from the store . I also needed to add 3oz of acidulated malt to the mash.
I used Brewers Friend to figure this out .
I’m loving the Strata hops. I tried Strata in a s.m.a.s.h and that’s what made me fall in love. I detect a peach flavor in Strata and even maybe a slight coconut .
 
Just tapped the beer I made last week. It probably needs another week or so to mellow out, but should be tasty. The floating dip tube works awesome, very glad I switched
 

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I'm going to do a split batch tomorrow or monday comparing adding the hops on day 2-3 vs adding them after 6-7 days after a cooling to 60F as you did here. I am fermenting in kegs, so I will follow my usual process in the first batch and hook up the spund setup on day 3 when I add the dryhops. For the other, I guess I'll keep it at 60 for 2-3 days and then drop the temp down and let it rest a few days before racking to a keg and just do a force carbonation. If I warm it back up and prime it, I think I risk getting a more bio-transformed character in the second batch won't I? I want to compare the late dry hop with theoretically little-no biotranformation vs the early biotransformation hop approach.

Cooled to 60 on day 6 after forced diacetyl test.

Left for 24 hours at 60.

Pulled as much yeast as possible. Tartan floccs really well so it was a ton of yeast and the beer was very clear.

Dry Hop:
5oz Southern Passion
2oz Galaxy
2oz Sabro

Just pull the pressure transfer piece and pour em in with a funnel. Attach the pressure transfer piece again and purge the head space a few times. Leave with 2.5 psi head pressure.

3 days at 60*

Cool to 45 for 36 hours.

Transfer to an O2 purged keg. Carbed at 31* for 10 days.


View attachment 618680
 
I'm going to do a split batch tomorrow or monday comparing adding the hops on day 2-3 vs adding them after 6-7 days after a cooling to 60F as you did here. I am fermenting in kegs, so I will follow my usual process in the first batch and hook up the spund setup on day 3 when I add the dryhops. For the other, I guess I'll keep it at 60 for 2-3 days and then drop the temp down and let it rest a few days before racking to a keg and just do a force carbonation. If I warm it back up and prime it, I think I risk getting a more bio-transformed character in the second batch won't I? I want to compare the late dry hop with theoretically little-no biotranformation vs the early biotransformation hop approach.

I just did almost this exact same experiment - I've been holding off on sharing the results until I was sure that I could identify them correctly in a triangle test. I've passing pretty consistently lately though, so I'll try to write up a summary to share here in the next couple days :)

As far as the differences I had vs. what you proposed: 1) I chose to do both batches force carbonated rather than spunded to take out the spunding variable. I've had some issues with hop flavor in NEIPAs before that I thought might be related to my spunding process, so I wanted to evaluate the hop character without this potential impact. 2) I dry hopped my biotransformation batch at ~40 hours into fermentation when the gravity was 1.023. I wanted to make sure the yeast was still very active rather than in clean up/settling out mode that they'd probably be in if I waited much past 50 hours. I'll double check my tilt hydrometer readings, but I think this 1.067 beer was at FG by 3 days after pitch.

Regardless which way you go, I'll be really interested to hear your results to see how they compare. Good luck!
 
I just did almost this exact same experiment - I've been holding off on sharing the results until I was sure that I could identify them correctly in a triangle test. I've passing pretty consistently lately though, so I'll try to write up a summary to share here in the next couple days [emoji4]

As far as the differences I had vs. what you proposed: 1) I chose to do both batches force carbonated rather than spunded to take out the spunding variable. I've had some issues with hop flavor in NEIPAs before that I thought might be related to my spunding process, so I wanted to evaluate the hop character without this potential impact. 2) I dry hopped my biotransformation batch at ~40 hours into fermentation when the gravity was 1.023. I wanted to make sure the yeast was still very active rather than in clean up/settling out mode that they'd probably be in if I waited much past 50 hours. I'll double check my tilt hydrometer readings, but I think this 1.067 beer was at FG by 3 days after pitch.

Regardless which way you go, I'll be really interested to hear your results to see how they compare. Good luck!

sweet! share the results!
 
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