HAS to be.Dry hop has to be in two stages. First when the fermentation is at about 70% (36 - 48 hours after pitching), and second after fermentation.
I do it like 40% - 60%.
Why?
HAS to be.Dry hop has to be in two stages. First when the fermentation is at about 70% (36 - 48 hours after pitching), and second after fermentation.
I do it like 40% - 60%.
If you want this typical neipa hazy-ness..HAS to be.
Why?
If you want this typical neipa hazy-ness..
16oz in 5 gal will be a first for me, usually half that much. I'll try it5gal
16oz in 5 gal will be a first for me, usually half that much. I'll try it
No it isnt. But thats TOTAL. NO bittering hops, maybe 1 oz whirlpool, otherwise all dry hop. There is a lot of bitterness coming from dry hopping. If you are having to much IBUS, thats because of that. There is no need for boil hops.
These are interesting hops. I tried doing a Firestone Walker Easy Jack clone. Missed the mark but made a very interesting pale ale.I just did one with mostly Vic Secret that came out awesome. Small amounts of Simcoe and El Dorado to support. I have also been meaning to experiment with the new age European hops, Huell Melon, Hallertau Blanc, Mandarina Bavaria, etc. Haven't gotten to that yet, but it seems like they could be good in an NEIPA.
There is 100% more to this.
Haze has NOTHING to do with dry hopping.If you want this typical neipa hazy-ness..
Don't disagree with any if this. I do think ABV plays into it too though. If you're in the 8% range you need those extra few ozs.I knnow its not unheard of but it’s not going to give you that true distinctive fruity flavor. It will give you hop flavor absolutely but not that signature flavor the specific variety of hop will provide. You said it your self that have you have to condition longer when your in that range of ozes. If you tone it back to in the 10 range you will let the true flavor out.
Whoever mention yeast health hit the nail on the head. A fast Healthy fermentation in the temp range you choose (me I drive from 68-76 with the strain I use) give the a clean fruitforward ester profile and gives the remaining yeast time to clean up. Ever since realizing this my beers improved leaps and bounds. It allows the hops to shine all while the Esters help to round out the aroma and flavor
I dont know if this info has been discussed. But i talked to the owner and head brewer of an award winning, very popular, good brewery, in the US. Cant say who, but he told me personally that in his NEIPAs (and hes done collabs all over the country) there are never 60 min hops, rarely whirlpools and its most of the time ONLY dry hopping.
He said that i should try at most 1 oz whirlpool and 400-500g dry hopping in 2 stages.
You can do it into the keg either previously carb or during it..How is everyone adding the 2nd dry hop with regards to oxygen exposure?
As long as you aren’t one of those people who constantly open your air lock to smell the fermentation you shoud have a pretty decent co2 cover in your fermenter. If youre worried you could always purge the fermenter with more co2 right before you put in that dry hop. Now there is air trapped in the pellets so your beer will absorb some o2 and obviously that increases as you up the amount of hops added after primary is complete.How is everyone adding the 2nd dry hop with regards to oxygen exposure?
So the messenger hasn't actually brewed this batch?I know what you meant. Im just the messenger. I was just lucky enough to get the chance to talk to him. This is what he told me and i have been a huge fan of his neipas. They’re all over 4+ on untappd and i asked what was the secret. He said: no boil hops, no whirlpool but he sometimes uses 1 oz for 5 gal in whirlpool (approx down sizing from his system) and dont be afraid to go for 4-500g for 5 gal in dry hopping, 1 batch during fermentation and 1 after.
And flaked oats and flaked wheat is his go to with pale 2 row and london ale 3. I was surprise how the grain bill and yeast was standard but the hopping procedure was different.
I wish i could name the brewery but he kind of made me promise and he only told me because we have a history.
How is everyone adding the 2nd dry hop with regards to oxygen exposure?
I put Braufessor's philosophy to the test and compared a DDH NEIPA vs a single DH batch (same amount of hops)...nobody could tell the difference.
How’d you do the dry hopping in your control and experiment group? How long were the dry hops in for and On what days were the two stages from the time of kegging. I did the same experiment actually. Brought it to the HB club for those to judge it. I too found that most people couldn’t tell the difference but the die hard IPA guys in the group actually could tell the difference. And all 6 of them correctly picked the DDH beer. Coincidence maybe
As long as you aren’t one of those people who constantly open your air lock to smell the fermentation you shoud have a pretty decent co2 cover in your fermenter.
The O2 that enters when the lid is removed does not stay near the top of the headspace and the CO2 does not stay near the beer when the lid is put back on the fermenter. CO2 is slightly more dense than O2, but the gasses mix equally once the lid is put back on and O2 will come in contact with the beer.
If you’re using bucket then yes. But purge your fermenter again after with co2 to force any O2 out and you should be fine
How’d you do the dry hopping in your control and experiment group? How long were the dry hops in for and On what days were the two stages from the time of kegging. I did the same experiment actually. Brought it to the HB club for those to judge it. I too found that most people couldn’t tell the difference but the die hard IPA guys in the group actually could tell the difference. And all 6 of them correctly picked the DDH beer. Coincidence maybe
The "blanket of CO2" theory is one of the biggest misconceptions in homebrewing IMO.
So the messenger hasn't actually brewed this batch?
Haze has NOTHING to do with dry hopping.
Then your brewer doesn't know what he's talking about, or he's pulling your chain. The research is out there. I believe some of it has been linked in this thread. The distinctive NEIPA look and mouthfeel comes from the proteins in wheat and flaked grains. This is not even argued against by any legitimate source that I'm aware of. But again, don't take my word for it. It's out there and easy to find. The heavy late hop additions and dry hop are for flavor and aroma. Not for the haze.This brewer i talked to also said that huge dryhopping is THE reason for haze.
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