New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Braufessor]

Is that 1ml in each mash and sparge? Is that reading prior to sparging or after? Do you see any benefit from adjusting the sparge water rather than adding to the boil? I have been only adding the acid to the mash, nothing to the sparge water then any additional salts called for to the boil.

That is 1ml to both mash and sparge (about 5 gallons in each).
That is toward the end of the mash for pH.... sample cooled to room temperature.
I just put it in the mash to make sure pH stays down during sparge and the resulting preboil pH is still in that 5.35-5.45 range.... Never really "compared it" though.

I do often add some of the salts that are slated for the sparge directly to the mash and just use less acid. Would be fine to throw them in kettle too.

 

[leesmith]

Checked mine today.... used 1 ml of lactic in mash and in sparge. Was in the 130:70 Chloride to Sulfate range. 100% RO water. Came in at 5.34.

At one time, you were preferring the higher sulfate to chloride ratio. Have your tastes changed?

 

[leesmith]

Some pro brewers whose beers in this style I respect have said they try to get as close to 5.2 as possible in the mash. I don't have the cohones to miss on the other side so I shoot for about 5.25-5.3

Just creep up on it as the boil starts.
Test. Add a little. Test. Ad a little. By the time the boil starts you will have it.
If you get your mash in the 5.25 to 5.3 range it won’t take much at the beginning of the boil.
Just do it before (if you add any at all) your bittering charge.

 

[Hannabrew]

Not sure what you mean but the guys in referring to were talking mash pH.

 

[leesmith]

Sorry didn’t read your post accurately.

Who are you referring to though?

Mash ph can vary a little....but getting that pre-boil (post mash) ph set to 5.2 (or post boil to 5.0) I’ve heard talk about.

Dan Suarez talks about it in relation to getting certain characteristics from hops.

From what I’ve gathered some of these brewers are trying to counteract the ph raising properties of hops in order to prevent any “off” flavors extracted from them at higher ph values.

*Edit: Or I should say to get the hop flavors they are after.

 

[Hannabrew]

A few local brewers here in Chicago and a couple of CO brewers I chatted with at GABF

 

[TresGringos]

Anybody ever use Idaho 7 in one of these, what was your strategy? I've had some commercial brews that had it and find it interesting, but am concerned too much could overpower, and not sure what other hops to use with it, if any.

 

[thehaze]

I've only used Idaho 7 in West Coast-ish IPAs and it works well. It definitely a medium+ hop in terms of hoppiness, flavours, etc.

 

[Iseneye]

Sorry didn’t read your post accurately.

Who are you referring to though?

Mash ph can vary a little....but getting that pre-boil (post mash) ph set to 5.2 (or post boil to 5.0) I’ve heard talk about.

Dan Suarez talks about it in relation to getting certain characteristics from hops.

From what I’ve gathered some of these brewers are trying to counteract the ph raising properties of hops in order to prevent any “off” flavors extracted from them at higher ph values.

*Edit: Or I should say to get the hop flavors they are after.

Did you mean to say hops would lower pH rather than raise? I assume that it would lower pH as we are extracting acids from hops during boil (alpha and beta acids)

 

[leesmith]

Did you mean to say hops would lower pH rather than raise? I assume that it would lower pH as we are extracting acids from hops during boil (alpha and beta acids)

No.
They tend to raise it. I don’t know the science behind it.

One reference: https://www.hopsteiner.com/news/2016/05/effect-dry-hopping-beer-ph/

I think what matters more is the impact that the ph shift one way or the other effects the flavor of the hops.

 

[Braufessor]

At one time, you were preferring the higher sulfate to chloride ratio. Have your tastes changed?

I have not even brewed this beer in 3 months...... Just did it that way this time. Honestly, I just don't think there is much difference overall. I did three of these at one time with 140:70, 70:140 and 120:120....... they were hard to tell apart and I knew what I was looking for.

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

Made it this far. Creeping up on a week. Should I buy a HD filter and put to keg? Let it drop out, 2 weeks maybe? Any thoughts?

 

[tld6008]

Made it this far. Creeping up on a week. Should I buy a HD filter and put to keg? Let it drop out, 2 weeks maybe? Any thoughts?
View attachment 594257

My hops never drop unless I get the temp down to 50f or so. If you can't do that maybe the filter is a good choice.

 

[Redtab78]

I cold crash my NEIPAs at day 8, keg at day 9 and force carb to drink on day 10

I have now made about 15 beers of this with very good success, and have noted a very significant taste difference between the yeast strains, with the yeast bay vermont IPA being SUPER mango(ish)/guava flavored (to me) and the wyeast 1318 london ale 3 being a good compromise of still having similar but not as prominante type of flavors just not quite as "juicy".

I use the same exact grain bill and water additions for every single one, i change the hops slightly, but i usually do 2 of each exact recipies using the 2 different strains. I really wanny get my hnds on some oly tropical ipa yeast tho.

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

Guess I need to buy a mini fridge. Kill 2 birds as could temp control better also. Thanks for the thoughts.

 

[stickyfinger]

I cold crash my NEIPAs at day 8, keg at day 9 and force carb to drink on day 10

I have now made about 15 beers of this with very good success, and have noted a very significant taste difference between the yeast strains, with the yeast bay vermont IPA being SUPER mango(ish)/guava flavored (to me) and the wyeast 1318 london ale 3 being a good compromise of still having similar but not as prominante type of flavors just not quite as "juicy".

I use the same exact grain bill and water additions for every single one, i change the hops slightly, but i usually do 2 of each exact recipies using the 2 different strains. I really wanny get my hnds on some oly tropical ipa yeast tho.

Made it this far. Creeping up on a week. Should I buy a HD filter and put to keg? Let it drop out, 2 weeks maybe? Any thoughts?
View attachment 594257

some will lash out at me in anger, but if you want to rack warm, you can do this. water purge the keg and then get your racking cane ready. right as you are ready to rack, take the poppet out of the out post on the keg and screw the main fitting back on. take the spring and "poppet" out of the ball lock QD and connect it to your racking tubing. let a little beer waste out of the line and then quickly pop it onto the post. when the keg is full, put the poppet back into the keg beer out fitting. there is a little more oxygen exposure doing this probably, but it doesn't seem to cause problems from what i've seen. i tried different filters and such and none of it consistently worked for me.

if you go the cold crash route (which works very well every time) make sure that you aren't sucking air into your fermenter slowly or you can get diacetyl in the beer. I traced my diacetyl problem in hoppy beers back to cold crashing without an absolutely tightly sealed carboy. when i stopped cold crashing, my diacetyl problem went away.

 

[SRJHops]

Advice on amount of hops and fermentation temps?

I saw this NEIPA recipe (below) in the latest issue of Zymurgy. Other than the yeast, it doesn't look much like a NEIPA to me, but it did get me thinking about the amount of hops I've been using.

I keep creeping up the amount, and I'm about to pass 20 ounces total in my 6 gallon recipe -- in search of a truly juicy NEIPA. But I've seen many posts with people saying that more hops can be less... And it's VERY possible I need to change/improve my brewing technique. So, I am wondering:

1. What is your total hops bill amount? Anyone else pushing 20 ounces or more?

2. What fermentation temps are you using? Do you start at say, 68, and ramp up to 72? I've been fermenting around 65 and wondering if bumping it up would help - and allow me to reduce the amount of hops I've been using?

Honey Squished IPA | American IPA
This New England-style India pale ale has accents of honey from the grain bill...

• For 5 gallons (18.9 L)

• MALTS
• 8 lb. (3.63 kg) 2-row pale ale malt (1.8°L)
• 1 lb. (454 g) Victory malt
• 1 lb. (454 g) honey malt
• 1 lb. (454 g) turbinado sugar
• HOPS
• 1 oz. (28 g) Motueka, 6.8% a.a.@ 60 min
• 1 oz. (28 g) Chinook, 13.8% a.a.@ 10 min
• 1 oz. (28 g) Warrior, 16.3% a.a.@ 10 min
• 1 oz. (28 g) Simcoe, 11.9% a.a., dry hop 7 days
• YEAST
• 1 L starter, White Labs WLP008 East Coast Ale
• ADDITIONAL ITEMS
• 1 tsp. gypsum (calcium sulfate)

SPECIFICATIONS

• Original Gravity: 1.056 (13.8° P)
• Final Gravity: 1.006 (1.5° P)
• ABV: 6.7%
• IBU: 35
• SRM: 8
• Efficiency: 63%

 

[leesmith]

Advice on amount of hops and fermentation temps?

I saw this NEIPA recipe (below) in the latest issue of Zymurgy. Other than the yeast, it doesn't look much like a NEIPA to me, but it did get me thinking about the amount of hops I've been using.

I keep creeping up the amount, and I'm about to pass 20 ounces total in my 6 gallon recipe -- in search of a truly juicy NEIPA. But I've seen many posts with people saying that more hops can be less... And it's VERY possible I need to change/improve my brewing technique. So, I am wondering:

1. What is your total hops bill amount? Anyone else pushing 20 ounces or more?

2. What fermentation temps are you using? Do you start at say, 68, and ramp up to 72? I've been fermenting around 65 and wondering if bumping it up would help - and allow me to reduce the amount of hops I've been using?

Honey Squished IPA | American IPA
This New England-style India pale ale has accents of honey from the grain bill...

• For 5 gallons (18.9 L)

• MALTS
• 8 lb. (3.63 kg) 2-row pale ale malt (1.8°L)
• 1 lb. (454 g) Victory malt
• 1 lb. (454 g) honey malt
• 1 lb. (454 g) turbinado sugar
• HOPS
• 1 oz. (28 g) Motueka, 6.8% a.a.@ 60 min
• 1 oz. (28 g) Chinook, 13.8% a.a.@ 10 min
• 1 oz. (28 g) Warrior, 16.3% a.a.@ 10 min
• 1 oz. (28 g) Simcoe, 11.9% a.a., dry hop 7 days
• YEAST
• 1 L starter, White Labs WLP008 East Coast Ale
• ADDITIONAL ITEMS
• 1 tsp. gypsum (calcium sulfate)

SPECIFICATIONS

• Original Gravity: 1.056 (13.8° P)
• Final Gravity: 1.006 (1.5° P)
• ABV: 6.7%
• IBU: 35
• SRM: 8
• Efficiency: 63%

This is an old post but gives you an idea of what these beers are being hopped at:

Treehouse Brewing Julius Clone
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/index.php?posts/7476025/

20oz is fine and about right if you ask me. The hopping rates of these beers can be insane and expensive.

66 works for me and some times I ramp it to 68 then 70 but really don’t need to with a healthy yeast and strong fermentation.

 

[hezagenius]

• 1 lb. (454 g) honey malt

• 1 oz. (28 g) Motueka, 6.8% a.a.@ 60 min
• 1 oz. (28 g) Chinook, 13.8% a.a.@ 10 min
• 1 oz. (28 g) Warrior, 16.3% a.a.@ 10 min
• 1 oz. (28 g) Simcoe, 11.9% a.a., dry hop 7 days

That seems like an awful lot of honey malt and not nearly enough hops for a NEIPA.

Go Hawks!

 

[stickyfinger]

Wow! 1 oz dry hop in 5 gallons for an NEIPA? That seems insanely low, but I guess you could taste some hops in it maybe.

Advice on amount of hops and fermentation temps?

I saw this NEIPA recipe (below) in the latest issue of Zymurgy. Other than the yeast, it doesn't look much like a NEIPA to me, but it did get me thinking about the amount of hops I've been using.

I keep creeping up the amount, and I'm about to pass 20 ounces total in my 6 gallon recipe -- in search of a truly juicy NEIPA. But I've seen many posts with people saying that more hops can be less... And it's VERY possible I need to change/improve my brewing technique. So, I am wondering:

1. What is your total hops bill amount? Anyone else pushing 20 ounces or more?

2. What fermentation temps are you using? Do you start at say, 68, and ramp up to 72? I've been fermenting around 65 and wondering if bumping it up would help - and allow me to reduce the amount of hops I've been using?

Honey Squished IPA | American IPA
This New England-style India pale ale has accents of honey from the grain bill...

• For 5 gallons (18.9 L)

• MALTS
• 8 lb. (3.63 kg) 2-row pale ale malt (1.8°L)
• 1 lb. (454 g) Victory malt
• 1 lb. (454 g) honey malt
• 1 lb. (454 g) turbinado sugar
• HOPS
• 1 oz. (28 g) Motueka, 6.8% a.a.@ 60 min
• 1 oz. (28 g) Chinook, 13.8% a.a.@ 10 min
• 1 oz. (28 g) Warrior, 16.3% a.a.@ 10 min
• 1 oz. (28 g) Simcoe, 11.9% a.a., dry hop 7 days
• YEAST
• 1 L starter, White Labs WLP008 East Coast Ale
• ADDITIONAL ITEMS
• 1 tsp. gypsum (calcium sulfate)

SPECIFICATIONS

• Original Gravity: 1.056 (13.8° P)
• Final Gravity: 1.006 (1.5° P)
• ABV: 6.7%
• IBU: 35
• SRM: 8
• Efficiency: 63%

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

some will lash out at me in anger, but if you want to rack warm, you can do this. water purge the keg and then get your racking cane ready. right as you are ready to rack, take the poppet out of the out post on the keg and screw the main fitting back on. take the spring and "poppet" out of the ball lock QD and connect it to your racking tubing. let a little beer waste out of the line and then quickly pop it onto the post. when the keg is full, put the poppet back into the keg beer out fitting. there is a little more oxygen exposure doing this probably, but it doesn't seem to cause problems from what i've seen. i tried different filters and such and none of it consistently worked for me.

if you go the cold crash route (which works very well every time) make sure that you aren't sucking air into your fermenter slowly or you can get diacetyl in the beer. I traced my diacetyl problem in hoppy beers back to cold crashing without an absolutely tightly sealed carboy. when i stopped cold crashing, my diacetyl problem went away.

Thanks! Its a Fermentasaurous so it has CO2 pressure on it.

I just bought another chest freezer to cold crash.

 

[Hannabrew]

some will lash out at me in anger, but if you want to rack warm, you can do this. water purge the keg and then get your racking cane ready. right as you are ready to rack, take the poppet out of the out post on the keg and screw the main fitting back on. take the spring and "poppet" out of the ball lock QD and connect it to your racking tubing. let a little beer waste out of the line and then quickly pop it onto the post. when the keg is full, put the poppet back into the keg beer out fitting. there is a little more oxygen exposure doing this probably, but it doesn't seem to cause problems from what i've seen. i tried different filters and such and none of it consistently worked for me.

if you go the cold crash route (which works very well every time) make sure that you aren't sucking air into your fermenter slowly or you can get diacetyl in the beer. I traced my diacetyl problem in hoppy beers back to cold crashing without an absolutely tightly sealed carboy. when i stopped cold crashing, my diacetyl problem went away.

I have a fermonster with spigot so I use a tube with a liquid QD on one end and the other goes over the spigot's barb. During racking I also attach a jumper cable from the gas post on the keg to a gas post I added to my fermonster lid so I have a true closed system.

For really hoppy beers like this I have been doing the following to avoid clogging:

1) Fermentation purge the keg so there is essentially no O2 inside (jumper airlock to keg's liquid post and open PRV slightly or use gas QD with nothing on it). When you're close to racking, seal lid with 10psi from CO2 tank
2) On the racking tubing, remove the liquid QD poppet
3) Right before racking, set co2 line at 1-2 psi and then in quick succession carefully loosen the liquid gas post so that any pressure is released while still somewhat screwed on and immediately clamp down gas QD to create positive pressure out of the liquid post that is now open.
4) Once the majority of pressure is released, unscrew the post completely, remove the liquid poppet, and replace the post (all while co2 is still coming out the liquid post)
5) Attach the racking tubing to the liquid post to purge the tubing
6) Once tubing is purged, attach open end onto spigot and remove gas QD from gas post
7) Attach gas jumper cable from gas QD to fermenter airlock so that any pressure equalizes.
8) Open spigot and walk away knowing this transfer will not clog!

This creates a fully purged system with no poppets to get in the way. It sounds complicated but once you do it a few times it's pretty easy.

Then once I'm done filling the keg, I vent any pressure out of the keg (important or else beer will come out once you disconnect the liquid QD), remove the racking hose from the keg, unscrew the post, add the poppet back in, and screw it back on. I then purge a couple times for good measure.

For those paying attention, yes there will still be some O2 in the top of the diptube (or tubing in my case) from the short time you have it exposed with no positive pressure. That is easily negated by pushing out a bit of beer (and that o2) at the end of all this...that's where I get my hydrometer reading

The goal is making sure anytime the keg is open there is positive pressure to keep the O2 at bay. It's certainly not 100% but it's close and saves me from the headache of a stalled transfer.

EDIT - I just did the process and realized I had a couple things wrong so I updated it above

 

[JohnK93]

Hello all,

Brewing this recipe for the second time tomorrow. The first time I used equal parts Citra, Mosaic, and Galaxy and it was amazing. This time, just to change things up, I've purchased 4oz each of Citra, Mosaic, and Simcoe and plan on following the same hopping schedule. (Also going a little heavier on the flaked oats/wheat and adding a touch of 20 for color.)

This is the hop combo listed in the BYO recipe for Julius, but lighter on the Simcoe than the Citra and Moscaic. Do you think equal parts Citra, Mosaic, and Simcoe work ok? What has been your experience with this combo?

Thanks,
John

 

[Hannabrew]

That's a winning combo

 

[ttuato]

1.) Hop bill:
I use 25oz into 7.5gal batch into fermenter.
1oz Boil
8oz whirlpool
8oz biotrans dryhop @ 72hrs
8oz aroma dryhop (after cold crash), day 10

For the aroma dryhop, I split the finished beer between two kegs, each contains 4oz of different hops. Accounting for losses, I usually end up with 6-6.5gal of drinkable beer. When pouring the beer, the aroma is detectable across the room. Flavor: my buddies and I used to think Treehouse made the best beer....

2.) Ferm temp - depends on yeast
Conan - 63 thru day 4 then ramp up to a couple of degrees each day to get to 70 before crashing
1272 - 65 thru day 4 then ramp up to a couple of degrees each day to get to 72 before crashing

Advice on amount of hops and fermentation temps?

I keep creeping up the amount, and I'm about to pass 20 ounces total in my 6 gallon recipe -- in search of a truly juicy NEIPA. But I've seen many posts with people saying that more hops can be less... And it's VERY possible I need to change/improve my brewing technique. So, I am wondering:

1. What is your total hops bill amount? Anyone else pushing 20 ounces or more?

2. What fermentation temps are you using? Do you start at say, 68, and ramp up to 72? I've been fermenting around 65 and wondering if bumping it up would help - and allow me to reduce the amount of hops I've been using?

 

[Braufessor]

Flavor: my buddies and I used to think Treehouse made the best beer....

Hard to beat one of these when you make it yourself, get the basics down, brew it well and get it fresh in your own house.

 

[TxBigHops]

I'm going to start with my question: Is 48 hours after pitching too soon to dry hop?

I brewed my NEIPA recipe on Saturday. Previous versions have had great flavor, but started out a bit brownish in color, and eventually turned ugly brown and lost a lot of the tropical citrus flavor. So this is my first batch in my brand new Spike fermenter. It's a Uni-tank, so I'm planning to close off the blow off and let it finish under pressure after I dry hop. When finished, I'll pressure transfer to a purged, pressurized keg, and hopefully eliminate most all opportunities for oxidation.

Ferment has been pretty vigorous since Sunday morning, and off-gassing appears to have already begun to slow a touch. I'm afraid If I wait until tomorrow night, it will slow off a lot more, and there won't be enough fermentation remaining to naturally carbonate the beer in the fermenter. I could also wait just until morning and dry hop before I leave for work.

Thoughts?

 

[Redtab78]

no. I brew on Saturday mornings, and dry hop on Monday nights with almost every NEIPA I do. sometimes I add a second dry hop 4 days later, sometimes I dont, just depends, but I do all my dry hopping in the primary on these, and only transfer to a secondary if I HAVE to now.

 

[stickyfinger]

I've added the hops to my carboy at the same time as pitching the yeast with excellent results, so any time from yeast pitch to a few days into fermentation is fine.

I'm going to start with my question: Is 48 hours after pitching too soon to dry hop?

I brewed my NEIPA recipe on Saturday. Previous versions have had great flavor, but started out a bit brownish in color, and eventually turned ugly brown and lost a lot of the tropical citrus flavor. So this is my first batch in my brand new Spike fermenter. It's a Uni-tank, so I'm planning to close off the blow off and let it finish under pressure after I dry hop. When finished, I'll pressure transfer to a purged, pressurized keg, and hopefully eliminate most all opportunities for oxidation.

Ferment has been pretty vigorous since Sunday morning, and off-gassing appears to have already begun to slow a touch. I'm afraid If I wait until tomorrow night, it will slow off a lot more, and there won't be enough fermentation remaining to naturally carbonate the beer in the fermenter. I could also wait just until morning and dry hop before I leave for work.

Thoughts?

 

[TxBigHops]

Cool! Thanks to both of you for the quick replies!