New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[grassfeeder]

I splashed some sauvignon blanc into a glass of my Galaxy El Dorado version, and I'll be damned it doesn't taste even better. I've been wanting to do a whole batch of white wine NEIPA and I think Galaxy could be key, the flavors worked so well. Nelson would likely be making an appearance too!

Just make it better than the Modern Times one they've got on Belmont right now. Have you tried Dialed In by Trillium? By far the go-to for inspiration I think.

 

[popquizkid]

I did a 12gallon split batch on Friday. Both bittered slightly with CTZ. One batch has Ella and El Dorado. The other has El Dorado, Eureka, Azacca. 1318 on both. 13oz of dry hops in both.

Had never used Ella in the NEIPA, so should be interesting.

Notched up fermentation to 70 this time to see if any changes are noticeable. TBD

I did one a couple months ago with Vic Secret, Ella, and Exp Stonefruit. That beer was the best IPA I have ever brewed. Just got around to cleaning out the keg yesterday and my whole basement smelled of pineapple / tropical fruits. With the other hops there not sure what Ella brought to the party, but I am keeping it in there that is for sure!

 

[Pratty]

I splashed some sauvignon blanc into a glass of my Galaxy El Dorado version, and I'll be damned it doesn't taste even better. I've been wanting to do a whole batch of white wine NEIPA and I think Galaxy could be key, the flavors worked so well. Nelson would likely be making an appearance too!

If your looking for that Sauvignon blanc flavour you need to get hold of NZ hop variatel, Nelson Sauvin.

https://ychhops.com/varieties/nelson-sauvin

 

[grassfeeder]

If your looking for that Sauvignon blanc flavour you need to get hold of NZ hop variatel, Nelson Sauvin.

https://ychhops.com/varieties/nelson-sauvin

yes, this is well known and goes in addition with. Sauv Blanc is actually an additive to Trilliums.....

 

[stonebrewer]

I think Trillium adds grape must (i.e. juice) not actual wine to Dialed In...and it is one of my favorite of their beers (hard to select a top beer from them...they are all so good!). Cheers!

 

[anteater8]

If your looking for that Sauvignon blanc flavour you need to get hold of NZ hop variatel, Nelson Sauvin.

https://ychhops.com/varieties/nelson-sauvin

Yep I mentioned Nelson in my post, wouldn't do a white wine IPA without it!

I think Trillium adds grape must (i.e. juice) not actual wine to Dialed In...and it is one of my favorite of their beers (hard to select a top beer from them...they are all so good!). Cheers!

Haven't had it personally, but this was my inspiration.

 

[avw0516]

I actually just kicked a batch of this beer using Nelson Sauvin, Amarillo, Ahtanum, and a bit of Mosaic... it was amazing. I was hoping to achieve a kind of "mimosa" IPA, it didn't really turn out with that flavor profile but it was very good.

At first the Nelson was a bit overwhelming - the beer smelled just like white wine but I wasn't getting much else off it. After about a week in the keg the other flavors started to come out and it was fantastic.

 

[grassfeeder]

I think Trillium adds grape must (i.e. juice) not actual wine to Dialed In...and it is one of my favorite of their beers (hard to select a top beer from them...they are all so good!). Cheers!

Correct, it is a non-alcoholic juice added in the middle of fermentation. For a 5-gallon batch how much do you think one should add? 1/2 gallon? More/less?

 

[carlk47]

Awesome thread, all this info has really helped me dial in proces.

Latest double done with citra, mosaic, and simcoe.

View attachment 558982

The color of this is awesome... very thirsty now

 

[stonebrewer]

Correct, it is a non-alcoholic juice added in the middle of fermentation. For a 5-gallon batch how much do you think one should add? 1/2 gallon? More/less?

Great question. I did some research on it when I was thinking about doing a clone of this beer, but never found enough information to make a great decision. There is a recipe on Beeradvocate that uses 48oz of must in a 5.5 gallon batch, so I think you are in the right ballpark. I think I would use up to a gallon to start and then back it down if it was too overpowering. The consensus is to add it in primary after fermentation has come to a near stop. You can buy grape must on Amazon, though it isn't cheap. If you brew this, start a thread and PM me...

 

[grassfeeder]

Great question. I did some research on it when I was thinking about doing a clone of this beer, but never found enough information to make a great decision. There is a recipe on Beeradvocate that uses 48oz of must in a 5.5 gallon batch, so I think you are in the right ballpark. I think I would use up to a gallon to start and then back it down if it was too overpowering. The consensus is to add it in primary after fermentation has come to a near stop. You can buy grape must on Amazon, though it isn't cheap. If you brew this, start a thread and PM me...

I'd honest probably just go find a quality organic white grape juice from Whole Foods or so....If anything, I'd start low and ramp the juice to taste. From what I gather. Trillium adds it half way through active ferm.

 

[anteater8]

Correct, it is a non-alcoholic juice added in the middle of fermentation. For a 5-gallon batch how much do you think one should add? 1/2 gallon? More/less?

As a commercial brewery they can't legally add wine or spirits to beer, but as homebrewers we can do whatever want! I think I remember mad fermentationist advocating for adding actual wine since its so much easier to obtain than must. I've done 1 bottle of sauvignon blanc in a 5 gal batch of saison before and it came out great.

 

[degivens]

I'd honest probably just go find a quality organic white grape juice from Whole Foods or so....If anything, I'd start low and ramp the juice to taste. From what I gather. Trillium adds it half way through active ferm.

That’s what i’m thinking as well. Probably going to try this soon and also a cutting tiles recipe.

 

[marjen]

So I have a NE IPA in my fermenter right now. Fermentation seems to be about over. Gravity is at 1.009. I brewed it last Friday. I added Dry hops on Sunday night. I am seeing something that plagued me last year, though not with every batch and it is one of the reasons I took a 3 month hiatus from brewing as it was very frustrating. I take a sample right now and it is disgusting. The dry hops have just turned the beer into a greenish muddy mess. It looks gross and tastes gross. Last year this seemed to happen to like half my batches. Sometimes the hops would drop out nicely after a few days. Other batched they would just linger and never go away. I know its the hops because when I dumped trub before adding the dry hops it looked a nice juicy yellow/orange and had no terrible taste. I added 6oz of loose hops to a 5 gallon batch and its murky and gross. I am planning on cold crashing over the weekend, which I hope helps, but last year whenever this happened it never really got much better even after being in the keg. Makes no sense this happens sometimes and other times no issues with same exact process.

 

[pearljam1984]

So I have a NE IPA in my fermenter right now. Fermentation seems to be about over. Gravity is at 1.009. I brewed it last Friday. I added Dry hops on Sunday night. I am seeing something that plagued me last year, though not with every batch and it is one of the reasons I took a 3 month hiatus from brewing as it was very frustrating. I take a sample right now and it is disgusting. The dry hops have just turned the beer into a greenish muddy mess. It looks gross and tastes gross. Last year this seemed to happen to like half my batches. Sometimes the hops would drop out nicely after a few days. Other batched they would just linger and never go away. I know its the hops because when I dumped trub before adding the dry hops it looked a nice juicy yellow/orange and had no terrible taste. I added 6oz of loose hops to a 5 gallon batch and its murky and gross. I am planning on cold crashing over the weekend, which I hope helps, but last year whenever this happened it never really got much better even after being in the keg. Makes no sense this happens sometimes and other times no issues with same exact process.

I can’t say I have had this extreme of a situation. However- when I take gravity readings, and if there are a ton of hops in the small sample(which is always), it’s not exactly something that taste “good”. But after 7 days and a cold crash I send to the keg and it’s completely different.

If I want to encourage quicker hop drop out, I’ll go in every day and give the fermentor a little bump. To allow the hops to move and circulate which allows them to start dropping.

 

[stickyfinger]

So I have a NE IPA in my fermenter right now. Fermentation seems to be about over. Gravity is at 1.009. I brewed it last Friday. I added Dry hops on Sunday night. I am seeing something that plagued me last year, though not with every batch and it is one of the reasons I took a 3 month hiatus from brewing as it was very frustrating. I take a sample right now and it is disgusting. The dry hops have just turned the beer into a greenish muddy mess. It looks gross and tastes gross. Last year this seemed to happen to like half my batches. Sometimes the hops would drop out nicely after a few days. Other batched they would just linger and never go away. I know its the hops because when I dumped trub before adding the dry hops it looked a nice juicy yellow/orange and had no terrible taste. I added 6oz of loose hops to a 5 gallon batch and its murky and gross. I am planning on cold crashing over the weekend, which I hope helps, but last year whenever this happened it never really got much better even after being in the keg. Makes no sense this happens sometimes and other times no issues with same exact process.

try doing a cold crash. that should fix your problem.

 

[marjen]

try doing a cold crash. that should fix your problem.

I am going to cold crash over the weekend. I have a glycol chiller now. But last year when this happened, wouldn't it have been fixed after being in the keg for a little bit?

 

[stickyfinger]

I am going to cold crash over the weekend. I have a glycol chiller now. But last year when this happened, wouldn't it have been fixed after being in the keg for a little bit?

yeah, i'd think it would taste good after 1-3 wks in the keg, unless you just don't like hoppy beer.

 

[marjen]

yeah, i'd think it would taste good after 1-3 wks in the keg, unless you just don't like hoppy beer.

I love hoppy beer. But when I tasted horrible greenish samples in batches last year even time in the keg did not really help. Again other batches with exact same ingredients and process would come out great. It was honestly like a 50/50 thing. I had to throw away a few full kegs because they tasted horrible. Then I would have one that was excellent.

 

[anteater8]

I love hoppy beer. But when I tasted horrible greenish samples in batches last year even time in the keg did not really help. Again other batches with exact same ingredients and process would come out great. It was honestly like a 50/50 thing. I had to throw away a few full kegs because they tasted horrible. Then I would have one that was excellent.

I'm always thrown off when people talking about how good their wort tastes, or how the beer tastes towards the end of fermentation. None of this has ever been any indication of the final beer to me, in fact most the time it tastes unpleasant until 1 week in the keg MINIMUM. After that it tastes great!

 

[stickyfinger]

I love hoppy beer. But when I tasted horrible greenish samples in batches last year even time in the keg did not really help. Again other batches with exact same ingredients and process would come out great. It was honestly like a 50/50 thing. I had to throw away a few full kegs because they tasted horrible. Then I would have one that was excellent.

If your beer tastes bad after time in the keg then you should get some local beer nerds to taste your beer and diagnose. It sounds strange to me.

 

[GnenieGone]

I'm always thrown off when people talking about how good their wort tastes, or how the beer tastes towards the end of fermentation. None of this has ever been any indication of the final beer to me, in fact most the time it tastes unpleasant until 1 week in the keg MINIMUM. After that it tastes great!

We've had incredibly long discussions about post fermentation diacetyl and oxygenation with these high hopped NEIPAs. Those are the typical cause of bad beer after kegging or bottling.

 

[runs4beer]

This is the sample I pulled and brought to our local brewery. It's our clubs 10th anniversary and we are doing a pilot batch on their 7bbl system, you could say this was the pilot for the pilot batch [emoji2]

It's my current NEIPA recipe fermented with Sigmund's Voss Kveik from The Yeast Bay. Not classic but this yeast makes a unique NEIPA and in more than one way (cloudy) works. Big citrus nose, clean, fully attenuated but still fruity.
The other half of the batch was with 1318 and could be described as classic NEIPA.

 

[anteater8]

We've had incredibly long discussions about post fermentation diacetyl and oxygenation with these high hopped NEIPAs. Those are the typical cause of bad beer after kegging or bottling.

I was referring to how tasting sample throughout the brewing and fermentation process isn't always a good indicator of how the beer will taste after the right amount of keg conditioning. This recipe always turns our fantastic for me.

 

[GnenieGone]

I was referring to how tasting sample throughout the brewing and fermentation process isn't always a good indicator of how the beer will taste after the right amount of keg conditioning. This recipe always turns our fantastic for me.

Ahh, gotcha. I'm jelly! Fantastic is hardly an adjective I use for my NEIPAs..but working on it.

 

[KrunkMasterKyle]

Just wondering, does anyone harvest their yeast from the NEIPAs and repitch in another batch?

If so - do you find harvesting is; the same, better, or worse in the end product? Do the fruity esters still come through?

How many generations do you go?

 

[Sbe2]

Just wondering, does anyone harvest their yeast from the NEIPAs and repitch in another batch?

If so - do you find harvesting is; the same, better, or worse in the end product? Do the fruity esters still come through?

How many generations do you go?

With a 6 oz+ dry hop I never harvest yeast. I just overbuild my starter, can a pint and pitch the rest. The yeast is always clean with no hop residue to worry about.

I take a yeast to six or seven generations. By that time I need to buy other things which saves on the shipping.

 

[Braufessor]

Just wondering, does anyone harvest their yeast from the NEIPAs and repitch in another batch?

If so - do you find harvesting is; the same, better, or worse in the end product? Do the fruity esters still come through?

How many generations do you go?

Personally, I would never harvest and store a bunch of yeast from a beer like this. However, say I felt like brewing today, and I also had one ready to keg. I would be fine with kegging the current batch, leave behind some beer, swirl up the remaining yeast in the fermenter, letting it settle for a few minutes, pour off a pint into a sanitized mason jar - and then pitching it to a new batch same day or within a day or two. I would probably not save the rest of the yeast but, I would take that one pitch off and use it in the same kind of beer and be ok with that.

 

[jordanfrenzy]

Saw everyone talking about Dialed In and I wanted to contribute my riff on that beer that is based off of Braufessor's NEIPA and a Dialed In recipe on this site. This is technically a clone of Dialed in w/ Vic Secret since that is what I had.

HOME BREW RECIPE:
Title: Trilliumish Dialed In

Brew Method: All Grain
Style Name: Imperial IPA
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 5.5 gallons (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 6.6 gallons
Boil Gravity: 1.068
Efficiency: 70% (brew house)


STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.082
Final Gravity: 1.016
ABV (standard): 8.74%
IBU (tinseth): 151.16
SRM (morey): 5.48

WATER:
Mash pH: 5.43
Calcium Magnesium Sodium Chloride Sulfate
(Ca ppm) (Mg ppm) (Na ppm) (Cl ppm) (SO4 ppm)
126 13 5 75 149

FERMENTABLES:
14 lb - American - Pilsner (67.5%)
1.5 lb - American - White Wheat (7.2%)
0.75 lb - American - Carapils (Dextrine Malt) (3.6%)
0.25 lb - American - Caramel / Crystal 20L (1.2%)
4 oz - German - Acidulated Malt (1.2%)
64 oz - Orange juice (19.3%) <- This is just what Brewer's Friend has available under juices. I used 100% Organic White Grape Juice

HOPS:
1 oz - Columbus, Type: Pellet, AA: 18.2, Use: Boil for 60 min, IBU: 53.26
1 oz - Columbus, Type: Pellet, AA: 15, Use: Boil for 10 min, IBU: 15.92
1 oz - Columbus, Type: Pellet, AA: 18.2, Use: Whirlpool for 30 min at 160 °F, IBU: 24.79
2 oz - Vic Secret, Type: Pellet, AA: 21, Use: Whirlpool for 30 min at 160 °F, IBU: 57.2
3 oz - Vic Secret, Type: Pellet, AA: 21, Use: Dry Hop for 4 days (Use your own schedule, I typically add the first round during Day 3 or 4 of fermentation then add the rest at Day 10 or so.)
3 oz - Vic Secret, Type: Pellet, AA: 21, Use: Dry Hop for 1 days

YEAST:
WLP007 at 66F

Added the juice and first dryhop a few days into fermentation. Carbonated naturally in the keg. This is one of the best beers I've ever made. Tons of orange and grapefruit.

 

[ryanm8]

Just wondering, does anyone harvest their yeast from the NEIPAs and repitch in another batch?

If so - do you find harvesting is; the same, better, or worse in the end product? Do the fruity esters still come through?

How many generations do you go?

I've been harvesting my yeast. I'm probably on generation 4-5 now for 1318 and it still tastes the same.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Just wondering, does anyone harvest their yeast from the NEIPAs and repitch in another batch?

If so - do you find harvesting is; the same, better, or worse in the end product? Do the fruity esters still come through?

How many generations do you go?

It's the sort of thing that will depend on the strain, but for instance the consensus seems to be that the Conan family benefit from a generation in beer before they will show their best, and commercial brewers typically use them for 10 generations, but after that Conan starts fading in and out, you get good batches then less good batches.

 

[pshankstar]

A pour of my NE IPA inspired by this thread. It still has a nice orange color to it, even though the photo doesn’t do it justice. It’s been in the keg for just 3 weeks now and still tastes really good. The aroma has dropped some but I’m still very happy with the results.

The only problem I have is I get a lot of foam when pouring it. I have Intertap SS FC Faucets and no matter how I adjust it, it still foams like crazy. Otherwise a great beer, just a pain to pour or fill a 32oz grumbler.

 

[jakturner]

View attachment 559728

A pour of my NE IPA inspired by this thread. It still has a nice orange color to it, even though the photo doesn’t do it justice. It’s been in the keg for just 3 weeks now and still tastes really good. The aroma has dropped some but I’m still very happy with the results.

The only problem I have is I get a lot of foam when pouring it. I have Intertap SS FC Faucets and no matter how I adjust it, it still foams like crazy. Otherwise a great beer, just a pain to pour or fill a 32oz grumbler.

I have an intertap FC, you have hop particles in the area where the FC moves inside the faucet. Even the smallest bits get stuck in there and will cause foaming. Remove faucet from the shank and clean it out. I don’t use my intertap on hop or fruit beers anymore due to foaming.

 

[pshankstar]

I have an intertap FC, you have hop particles in the area where the FC moves inside the faucet. Even the smallest bits get stuck in there and will cause foaming. Remove faucet from the shank and clean it out. I don’t use my intertap on hop or fruit beers anymore due to foaming.

Good to know. Even though I bagged all of the dry hops, I’m sure there was still a fair amount that made it from the kettle to the fermenter then to the keg. Maybe I’ll strip it down this week and clean it out. I’m hopeful that will be the smoking gun and then the rest of the keg will pour better.

Thanks for that info, I really appreciate it!

 

[Braufessor]

View attachment 559728

A pour of my NE IPA inspired by this thread. It still has a nice orange color to it, even though the photo doesn’t do it justice. It’s been in the keg for just 3 weeks now and still tastes really good. The aroma has dropped some but I’m still very happy with the results.

The only problem I have is I get a lot of foam when pouring it. I have Intertap SS FC Faucets and no matter how I adjust it, it still foams like crazy. Otherwise a great beer, just a pain to pour or fill a 32oz grumbler.

If you get hop particles in the keg post that will cause excessive foaming in my experience. Make sure to purge the keg of pressure before taking the post off to check though - otherwise you will get an IPA money shot.

 

[snocross1985]

Until recently, I had been bottling and doing partial mash. Tried the OP recipe as a partial mash and it was good in bottles until about 2 weeks and oxidation took over. Now that I am kegging, all-grain, and dabbling in water treatments I wanted to revisit this. I went by the updated recipe (scaled down to 2.5 gallons) using 1318 on Saturday. Just dry-hopped and its looking great so far. Really looking forward to getting this one in the keg when it is ready. One deviation from the recipe I took was subbing Idaho 7 for Galaxy. My LHBS was out of Galaxy so I went with the Idaho 7. Curious to see how this turns out. Have to report back when its ready.

 

[Braufessor]

I did get the original post edited with a link to that recent "update" post #5803. Not that it was significantly different, mainly just clarifications and additional info. So, that post is now linked in the original post in case anyone is looking for "recent" information.

 

[jakturner]

If you get hop particles in the keg post that will cause excessive foaming in my experience. Make sure to purge the keg of pressure before taking the post off to check though - otherwise you will get an IPA money shot.

Ya I’ve have clogged poppets cause foaming too, watch your lines when you make a pour. If it’s foamy in the line during the pour it’s the poppet, if you have air bubbles sitting at the high points of the tubing before you pour then you have co2 break out from serving at a lower pressure than the beer is carbonated to (or temperature stratification). If your line is clear and foams when it gets to the tap then u know it’s the FC.

 

[popquizkid]

Until recently, I had been bottling and doing partial mash. Tried the OP recipe as a partial mash and it was good in bottles until about 2 weeks and oxidation took over. Now that I am kegging, all-grain, and dabbling in water treatments I wanted to revisit this. I went by the updated recipe (scaled down to 2.5 gallons) using 1318 on Saturday. Just dry-hopped and its looking great so far. Really looking forward to getting this one in the keg when it is ready. One deviation from the recipe I took was subbing Idaho 7 for Galaxy. My LHBS was out of Galaxy so I went with the Idaho 7. Curious to see how this turns out. Have to report back when its ready.

Keeps us posted - I have a pound of Idaho 7 i just got recently was thinking about using it and Citra together in an NEIPA.

 

[pshankstar]

Thanks everyone for the feedback on the foaming. I will open up the kegerator this week and look at it all when I pour a pint or two. Just out of curiosity, has anyone tried to connect the "output" connector to the post and blast it with CO2 to clear the poppet with any success? I'll probably have to vent the keg and take it all apart, but figured I would ask. Thanks again everyone and take care!