What was your tap water chemistry like? Now you've got me feeling like I need an RO system!
New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA
- Thread starter Braufessor
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk:
What was your tap water chemistry like? Now you've got me feeling like I need an RO system!
milldoggy
Well-Known Member
Never tested it. I just filtered through 5 micron and did not care. Now I have gone RO, won't go back.
Mine is good to moderate quality. It actually tastes pretty good for drinking but for beer its meh. I tasted tap water flavor when i drank the beer.
If you want to be convinced that RO water is the way to go, next time you brew do a relatively cheap experiment: Go buy enough 1 gallon jugs of distilled water (about $0.88/ea at walmart) and add the appropriate salts.
RO is actually quite cheap. A bit over a hundred bucks and the filters last a long time. It also makes really good drinking water. It's basically a filter down to the molecular level so a lot of the unsavory parts of drinking water get removed like pesticides and other industry effluent.
pearljam1984
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2017
- Messages
- 73
- Reaction score
- 46
Anyone tried using WLP007? I just kegged a batch in this style and used it for the first time. It was a quick worker. Went from 1.056 to 1.009 in 3 days. Left in fermenter for 2 weeks. I also mashed at 153 with 33% being wheat.
Way clearer in clarity than the other yeasts I have used. Gonna give it a few weeks in the keg.
Way clearer in clarity than the other yeasts I have used. Gonna give it a few weeks in the keg.
OP
OP
Yeah - 007 drops like a rock. It will definitely result in a beer that has greater clarity than some of the other yeasts. That being said, should still make a very good version of this. I know 007 is a yeast of choice of many breweries that are highly regarded for their IPA's.
popquizkid
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2013
- Messages
- 216
- Reaction score
- 89
If you use 007 on this recipe you will end up with a nice beer. I always have 007 on hand as it is very versatile and have made this recipe a few times. In my experience it does not stay hazy very long and will clear up in the keg.
aaronm13
Well-Known Member
Brewed my second batch of this at the weekend with the new hop addition schedule, less work is good in my book. Also tried the Citra, Mosaic, Simcoe and Centennial combination this time. Only Brewed 2.5 gallons the first time so did 5 as first batch only lasted week. Should be ready just in time for Christmas but want to get the final gravity down as low as possible as OG was a few points off at 1.053 was aiming for around 1.058 so I must adjust my efficiency in Beersmith. Is raising the temperature to around 72 the best way of achieving this? Only went as high as 70 on the last brew. Added the dry hops tonight and raised the temperature to 68. How long should I leave it at that before raising temps?
grassfeeder
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2014
- Messages
- 424
- Reaction score
- 107
I usually ferment at 66 and ramp to 72 the last few days in 2 degree increments.
OP
OP
I usually start around 64-66 and it free rises to 68-70. I would say you want to maybe generally keep at or under 70 for 80% of fermentation. After that, 72-74 is probably no big deal and would maybe help them finish out if it is something that is giving a person problems. Mine always seem to finish out just fine at 68-70....... so, I usually never worry about it.
Tarpon87
Well-Known Member
Brewed another version of this 2 weeks ago and it's been kegged for 2 days. Same grain bill as post 1418 and used up some hops I had in the freezer.
.5oz warrior & .25oz ctz @60 (I still like a 60min bittering charge in these beers)
2oz azacca @flameout
2oz Galaxy & 2oz eldorado @ 160 whilpool for 20min
Single dry hop on day 3 2oz El Dorado, 2oz Galaxy, 1oz mosaic
Made a starter with some 1272 that I last used 3-4 months ago, fermentation took longer (usually done in >4 days) but got 84% attenuation from the 1272 which was a bit more than I planned on, beer finished at 1.012. Smells incredible, tropical fruit. I tried something different, didn't bag any of the hops in this batch other than the bittering charge. Used 2 rubber door stoppers to prop up the front of fermenter so things would settle towards the back away from the spigot on my BMB. Seemed to work ok, had to clean out the ball lock twice during keg transfer, but not the worst thing that's happened while transferring these beers. Hopefully the aroma is still there once I take the first pull in a couple days.
.5oz warrior & .25oz ctz @60 (I still like a 60min bittering charge in these beers)
2oz azacca @flameout
2oz Galaxy & 2oz eldorado @ 160 whilpool for 20min
Single dry hop on day 3 2oz El Dorado, 2oz Galaxy, 1oz mosaic
Made a starter with some 1272 that I last used 3-4 months ago, fermentation took longer (usually done in >4 days) but got 84% attenuation from the 1272 which was a bit more than I planned on, beer finished at 1.012. Smells incredible, tropical fruit. I tried something different, didn't bag any of the hops in this batch other than the bittering charge. Used 2 rubber door stoppers to prop up the front of fermenter so things would settle towards the back away from the spigot on my BMB. Seemed to work ok, had to clean out the ball lock twice during keg transfer, but not the worst thing that's happened while transferring these beers. Hopefully the aroma is still there once I take the first pull in a couple days.
Last edited:
Do I have to use separate gear when using this particular yeast?
OP
OP
Made a Hoppy Wheat beer in order to grow up some 1318 yeast.
Wanted to try another version of a low ABV session ale for yeast propagating purposes.
Water was around 75-75-75 on calcium, chloride, sulfate
Really pretty good. If anything, I might scale back a touch on the hops - Warrior in particular - a bit more bitterness than needed comparison to gravity. I bet Citra/Mosaic would be killer in this.
1.040 OG
50% Wheat
50% 2 Row
1/2 ounce warrior to bitter..... 20-25 IBU
2 ounces each of Simcoe and Amarillo after chilling below 170
No Dry hop
1318
Wanted to try another version of a low ABV session ale for yeast propagating purposes.
Water was around 75-75-75 on calcium, chloride, sulfate
Really pretty good. If anything, I might scale back a touch on the hops - Warrior in particular - a bit more bitterness than needed comparison to gravity. I bet Citra/Mosaic would be killer in this.
1.040 OG
50% Wheat
50% 2 Row
1/2 ounce warrior to bitter..... 20-25 IBU
2 ounces each of Simcoe and Amarillo after chilling below 170
No Dry hop
1318
Last edited:
OP
OP
That is a good idea.... I could see that working well, especially for buckets or fermenters like that.
SailorJerry
Well-Known Member
Think that recipe would be ok racked into BlackBerry puree? Or should I listen to my wife and made a super light pale ale with it?
OP
OP
Actually..... I have basically the same beer that I did a kettle sour with Yeastbay Lacto Blend, and then fermented with 1056..... added Raspberry puree to it. Probably sample it this coming weekend.
If I was going to add fruit to it, I would probably get rid of most of the hops. Drinking this one - It probably has too much bitterness as it is and would kind of clash weird with the fruit I think. If I was going to try to blend fruit in, I would scrap my hop bill above. I would maybe bitter with a half ounce of cascade and then add an ounce or maybe two ounces of mosaic at the end.... mosaic can kind of have a berry flavor a bit and that might go very nice with black berry......
I am going to brew it again as above and add a half pound of carpils.
For hops I am going to use 1/2 ounce warrior at 30 minutes and then 1.5 ounces each of citra and mosaic. I think that would be even better than what this one is. It is a nice light hoppy ale as is now.
brew703
Well-Known Member
Going to give this style another try now that I have my keg system set up.
For those who brew this recipe what is the time frame from ready to drink until the hoppiness/aroma begins to fade? I ask because I will probably be the only one drinking this and trying to decide if I want to do a 5 gal batch or a 3 gal batch. My plan is to do a closed transfer to minimize oxygen exposure and to do whatever is necessary to prolong the beer.
For those who brew this recipe what is the time frame from ready to drink until the hoppiness/aroma begins to fade? I ask because I will probably be the only one drinking this and trying to decide if I want to do a 5 gal batch or a 3 gal batch. My plan is to do a closed transfer to minimize oxygen exposure and to do whatever is necessary to prolong the beer.
I was very happy drinking my 5 gal. for 4.5 weeks... wish it would have lasted longer but I have another batch to keg in a couple of days.
Northern_Brewer
British - apparently some US company stole my name
...and then add some speciality malts and you'd end up with what I was going to suggest, which was a blackberry mild. It's no bad thing to have something a bit lighter ABV at this time of year, and it's a combination that just seems to work, the mild supports the blackberry without overwhelming the delicate fruit flavours.
I use a 4" 3 ring binder to make accommodation space for sediment away from my spigot on my fermonster.
SailorJerry
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the input! We've got 3 IPA's on deck, a stout and NEIPA on tap. Need to branch out, plus, the wife is requesting it. Happy wife, happy life, right?
Oldskewl
Well-Known Member
I find it's best from 2 weeks in the keg to about 7. It starts to fade after that, but still very drinkable.
Northern_Brewer
British - apparently some US company stole my name
Per the NEIPA dry yeast thread, it seems the Lallemand dry New England yeast was officially launched on 13 November, no sign of 11g packs yet but the 500g packs are starting to show up for sale to breweries at nearly double the price of Nottingham...
brew703
Well-Known Member
That's about what I was hoping. I'll give it another try maybe next weekend.
So are you still doing a flameout addition or are you combining the flameout and whirlpool addition into a single addition at around 160F?
OP
OP
Single addition after chilling has gotten the temp down into that 160 ish range.... and then just continue to chill.
This has been the most helpful thread in me throwing out my first NEIPA.
I brewed a smaller 15L batch following the basic outline here, except I didn't quite hit my boil IBUs with an addition of only 10g of Simcoe as a FWH. This took my IBU to 20 ish but I'm fairly confident that the flameout additions will bring enough IBU to balance it out? The OG was 1.058 .
If it seems too sweet post ferment Im considering throwing in some grapefruit peel to add some bitterness. I used WLP007 Dry english ale yeast so I'm hopeful this will attenuate fairly well considering I mashed at 66 C (150f).
Ive gone back to back brews and currently have my next one boiling now with slightly different malts and I will be using Simcoe, Cascade and Citra Lupuln 2 as my flameout/whirlpool/dryhop ..
Super excited to see how they both turn out! First NEIPAs here we go!!
I brewed a smaller 15L batch following the basic outline here, except I didn't quite hit my boil IBUs with an addition of only 10g of Simcoe as a FWH. This took my IBU to 20 ish but I'm fairly confident that the flameout additions will bring enough IBU to balance it out? The OG was 1.058 .
If it seems too sweet post ferment Im considering throwing in some grapefruit peel to add some bitterness. I used WLP007 Dry english ale yeast so I'm hopeful this will attenuate fairly well considering I mashed at 66 C (150f).
Ive gone back to back brews and currently have my next one boiling now with slightly different malts and I will be using Simcoe, Cascade and Citra Lupuln 2 as my flameout/whirlpool/dryhop ..
Super excited to see how they both turn out! First NEIPAs here we go!!
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2015
- Messages
- 30
- Reaction score
- 4
I need to try this approach. I always get impatient when I’m whirlpooling with the chiller off because I generally just want the day over by that point. Shaving 30 minutes without any decrease in quality sounds great.
dawalker33
Member
- Joined
- Jul 15, 2012
- Messages
- 14
- Reaction score
- 2
Do you have any photos of this? I just put a spigot in my Fermonster and this is the first beer I have done with it. Was planning on doing a closed transfer to a keg but was concerned about clogging. Hoping the cold crash will compact the trub below the spigot. Was looking at options on keeping the spigot clear during transfers.
ttuato
Well-Known Member
@runs4beer - please tell me more
pearljam1984
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2017
- Messages
- 73
- Reaction score
- 46
I just used WLP007 for first time and got 82% attenuation while mashing at 152. It did some quick work in 3 days. Going to compare it to my standard S04.
