New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Oldskewl]

Going to give this style another try now that I have my keg system set up.
For those who brew this recipe what is the time frame from ready to drink until the hoppiness/aroma begins to fade? I ask because I will probably be the only one drinking this and trying to decide if I want to do a 5 gal batch or a 3 gal batch. My plan is to do a closed transfer to minimize oxygen exposure and to do whatever is necessary to prolong the beer.

I find it's best from 2 weeks in the keg to about 7. It starts to fade after that, but still very drinkable.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Per the NEIPA dry yeast thread, it seems the Lallemand dry New England yeast was officially launched on 13 November, no sign of 11g packs yet but the 500g packs are starting to show up for sale to breweries at nearly double the price of Nottingham...

 

[brew703]

I find it's best from 2 weeks in the keg to about 7. It starts to fade after that, but still very drinkable.

That's about what I was hoping. I'll give it another try maybe next weekend.

 

[ba-brewer]

I have gotten to the point where I start my chiller, get the wort on its way under 160-170 range (only a few minutes to get this first drop from boiling to 160 or so), throw all my hops in, and leave the chiller running. Keep swirling it up as it continues to chill. I don't even really do an official "hop stand" so much anymore. I just keep chilling it down. ends up basically being a good 20-25 minutes anyway as it goes from 160 to 65 degrees. Most of the trub and hop particulate ends up settling out toward the end...... I give it one final stir and get it into a bit of a whirlpool with 5-7 minutes to go before it reaches final temps. I can't tell any difference at all between this method and attempting multiple flame out additions, or this method and longer hop stands, etc.

So are you still doing a flameout addition or are you combining the flameout and whirlpool addition into a single addition at around 160F?

 

[Braufessor]

So are you still doing a flameout addition or are you combining the flameout and whirlpool addition into a single addition at around 160F?

Single addition after chilling has gotten the temp down into that 160 ish range.... and then just continue to chill.

 

[Chrispy92]

This has been the most helpful thread in me throwing out my first NEIPA.

I brewed a smaller 15L batch following the basic outline here, except I didn't quite hit my boil IBUs with an addition of only 10g of Simcoe as a FWH. This took my IBU to 20 ish but I'm fairly confident that the flameout additions will bring enough IBU to balance it out? The OG was 1.058 .

If it seems too sweet post ferment Im considering throwing in some grapefruit peel to add some bitterness. I used WLP007 Dry english ale yeast so I'm hopeful this will attenuate fairly well considering I mashed at 66 C (150f).

Ive gone back to back brews and currently have my next one boiling now with slightly different malts and I will be using Simcoe, Cascade and Citra Lupuln 2 as my flameout/whirlpool/dryhop ..

Super excited to see how they both turn out! First NEIPAs here we go!!

 

[revbeard]

Single addition after chilling has gotten the temp down into that 160 ish range.... and then just continue to chill.

I need to try this approach. I always get impatient when I’m whirlpooling with the chiller off because I generally just want the day over by that point. Shaving 30 minutes without any decrease in quality sounds great.

 

[dawalker33]

I use a 4" 3 ring binder to make accommodation space for sediment away from my spigot on my fermonster.

Do you have any photos of this? I just put a spigot in my Fermonster and this is the first beer I have done with it. Was planning on doing a closed transfer to a keg but was concerned about clogging. Hoping the cold crash will compact the trub below the spigot. Was looking at options on keeping the spigot clear during transfers.

 

[ttuato]

...If possible I would recommend getting away from manually stirring you kettle during chilling. By using a pump and a tight fitting lid I could definitely detect an increase in hop aroma.

@runs4beer - please tell me more

 

[pearljam1984]

This has been the most helpful thread in me throwing out my first NEIPA.

I brewed a smaller 15L batch following the basic outline here, except I didn't quite hit my boil IBUs with an addition of only 10g of Simcoe as a FWH. This took my IBU to 20 ish but I'm fairly confident that the flameout additions will bring enough IBU to balance it out? The OG was 1.058 .

If it seems too sweet post ferment Im considering throwing in some grapefruit peel to add some bitterness. I used WLP007 Dry english ale yeast so I'm hopeful this will attenuate fairly well considering I mashed at 66 C (150f).

Ive gone back to back brews and currently have my next one boiling now with slightly different malts and I will be using Simcoe, Cascade and Citra Lupuln 2 as my flameout/whirlpool/dryhop ..

Super excited to see how they both turn out! First NEIPAs here we go!!

I just used WLP007 for first time and got 82% attenuation while mashing at 152. It did some quick work in 3 days. Going to compare it to my standard S04.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

I just used WLP007 for first time...Going to compare it to my standard S04.

Given that they're both descendants of Whitbread B they shouldn't be wildly different.

One of the Group 2 British yeasts might be interesting - WLP026 Premium Bitter, WLP037 Yorkshire Square or WLP038 Manchester - they're related to some of the saison yeasts so could give a bit of spice.

 

[fragged]

Brewed this up for the first time today, which was a bad idea. Not much went right...

1) There is a blizzard here.

2) Forgot to add a Campden tablet to strike water. This is what I'm most concerned about, I added it right after mash in, so hoping for the best. My water is only .83 ppm on chloramine, so hopefully the low amount and remembering it early in the mash is enough. The mash out water did taste quite good. I brewed several batches early on before even knowing chlorine should be eliminated from the water, so I probably need to relax. No more lazy tabs though, water comes from the carbon filter from now on.

3) Forgot the water additions prior to mash. See above - guess what was in the same Tupperware container.

4) Citra I ordered online (from ebay, as it was dirt cheap) was positively rotten. Brown, hard as a rock and smelled just plain foul, no hint of hop what-so-ever. Lesson learned. After a bit of back and forth with myself, I would up 2 miles away at the LHBS to get some. Did I mention the blizzard? Probably should have just went all mosaic/galaxy, but at that point I had my mind set (read: Stubborn mode 100% engaged). Upside is the seller gave me a refund, took him about 1 minute to reply.

4a) I also accidentally knocked the two ounces I had measured of this crap off the counter and all over my kitchen. (BTW, they crunch when you step on them).

5) My volumes are off, not sure what happened there, I suppose it's likely to have more boil off in 20 degree weather. Came a 1/2 gallon short.

5a) I didn't check pre-boil volume.



But, it's in the fermentor. Now my debate is whether to pick up a few more ounces of citra for the dry hop additions(yep, bought just enough for the whirlpool additions today - as you can see thinking ahead was not my strong suit today), or just go with mosaic/galaxy from here on out. Also have some cascade, centennial, and CTZ.

 

[tld6008]

Maybe get someone to help you next time you brew.

 

[Sbe2]

Do you have any photos of this? I just put a spigot in my Fermonster and this is the first beer I have done with it. Was planning on doing a closed transfer to a keg but was concerned about clogging. Hoping the cold crash will compact the trub below the spigot. Was looking at options on keeping the spigot clear during transfers.

I ferment in a pseudo swamp cooler with the binder in place. Then a day before transfer I set it on the table shown.

 

[Sbe2]

Brewed this up for the first time today, which was a bad idea. Not much went right...

1) There is a blizzard here.

2) Forgot to add a Campden tablet to strike water. This is what I'm most concerned about, I added it right after mash in, so hoping for the best. My water is only .83 ppm on chloramine, so hopefully the low amount and remembering it early in the mash is enough. The mash out water did taste quite good. I brewed several batches early on before even knowing chlorine should be eliminated from the water, so I probably need to relax. No more lazy tabs though, water comes from the carbon filter from now on.

3) Forgot the water additions prior to mash. See above - guess what was in the same Tupperware container.

4) Citra I ordered online (from ebay, as it was dirt cheap) was positively rotten. Brown, hard as a rock and smelled just plain foul, no hint of hop what-so-ever. Lesson learned. After a bit of back and forth with myself, I would up 2 miles away at the LHBS to get some. Did I mention the blizzard? Probably should have just went all mosaic/galaxy, but at that point I had my mind set (read: Stubborn mode 100% engaged). Upside is the seller gave me a refund, took him about 1 minute to reply.

4a) I also accidentally knocked the two ounces I had measured of this crap off the counter and all over my kitchen. (BTW, they crunch when you step on them).

5) My volumes are off, not sure what happened there, I suppose it's likely to have more boil off in 20 degree weather. Came a 1/2 gallon short.

5a) I didn't check pre-boil volume.



But, it's in the fermentor. Now my debate is whether to pick up a few more ounces of citra for the dry hop additions(yep, bought just enough for the whirlpool additions today - as you can see thinking ahead was not my strong suit today), or just go with mosaic/galaxy from here on out. Also have some cascade, centennial, and CTZ.

RDWHAHB

If you are really concerned about the chloramine, I would use the C hops and use the Galaxy and Mosaic for a beer that you have more confidence in.

 

[Andre3000]

Brewed this up for the first time today, which was a bad idea. Not much went right...


2) Forgot to add a Campden tablet to strike water.

3) Forgot the water additions prior to mash. See above - guess what was in the same Tupperware container.

The very first all grain batch I did was an american wheat which should have required some major mash adjustments and campden but I did nothing of the sort; straight from the tap. Our water here is >2 ppm residual chlorine from chloramine. It was a decent beer (I'm a critic of my own work) and my friends absolutely loved it. $20 says your beer is drinkable if not delicious.

 

[Chrispy92]

I just used WLP007 for first time and got 82% attenuation while mashing at 152. It did some quick work in 3 days. Going to compare it to my standard S04.

Well I pitched yesterday morning, it had a nice big fluffy white krausen 24 hours later and by the afternoon it's blowing out through the airlock making a massive mess!

Just want to make sure I've got my dry hopping schedule right. It's been two days since pitching and one day since Krausen formation. If I pitch tomorrow (day two of high krausen) is that too early? I don't want to miss pitching during high activity if this yeast is going to be a beast and done in 3 days??

 

[ttuato]

Brewed this up for the first time today, which was a bad idea. Not much went right...

1) There is a blizzard here.

2) Forgot to add a Campden tablet to strike water. This is what I'm most concerned about, I added it right after mash in, so hoping for the best. My water is only .83 ppm on chloramine, so hopefully the low amount and remembering it early in the mash is enough. The mash out water did taste quite good. I brewed several batches early on before even knowing chlorine should be eliminated from the water, so I probably need to relax. No more lazy tabs though, water comes from the carbon filter from now on.

3) Forgot the water additions prior to mash. See above - guess what was in the same Tupperware container.

4) Citra I ordered online (from ebay, as it was dirt cheap) was positively rotten. Brown, hard as a rock and smelled just plain foul, no hint of hop what-so-ever. Lesson learned. After a bit of back and forth with myself, I would up 2 miles away at the LHBS to get some. Did I mention the blizzard? Probably should have just went all mosaic/galaxy, but at that point I had my mind set (read: Stubborn mode 100% engaged). Upside is the seller gave me a refund, took him about 1 minute to reply.

4a) I also accidentally knocked the two ounces I had measured of this crap off the counter and all over my kitchen. (BTW, they crunch when you step on them).

5) My volumes are off, not sure what happened there, I suppose it's likely to have more boil off in 20 degree weather. Came a 1/2 gallon short.

5a) I didn't check pre-boil volume.



But, it's in the fermentor. Now my debate is whether to pick up a few more ounces of citra for the dry hop additions(yep, bought just enough for the whirlpool additions today - as you can see thinking ahead was not my strong suit today), or just go with mosaic/galaxy from here on out. Also have some cascade, centennial, and CTZ.

This will be the best beer you have ever made simply because you will never be able to replicate it.

 

[Braufessor]

Well I pitched yesterday morning, it had a nice big fluffy white krausen 24 hours later and by the afternoon it's blowing out through the airlock making a massive mess!

Just want to make sure I've got my dry hopping schedule right. It's been two days since pitching and one day since Krausen formation. If I pitch tomorrow (day two of high krausen) is that too early? I don't want to miss pitching during high activity if this yeast is going to be a beast and done in 3 days??

I think tomorrow is fine. You also don't want to dry hop and have a highly active fermentation pump all the hops right back out. So, I think day 3 would be good.

 

[fragged]

Well I pitched yesterday morning, it had a nice big fluffy white krausen 24 hours later and by the afternoon it's blowing out through the airlock making a massive mess!

Just want to make sure I've got my dry hopping schedule right. It's been two days since pitching and one day since Krausen formation. If I pitch tomorrow (day two of high krausen) is that too early? I don't want to miss pitching during high activity if this yeast is going to be a beast and done in 3 days??

So I guess this answers my question I had when I woke up... "Do I need a blowoff?". I figured I would, using 1318 at 1.064 OG. I'm at the fluffy white stage now. [emoji1]

 

[SailorJerry]

Made my NEIPA v2 last night - too cold out to hook up the hose to the outside faucet, so we let the beers cool outside. I guess I lost my patience and pitched my Conan DIPA yeast in the mid 80's, probably moved it down to my 65 degree basement when the wort was still in the high 70s. I guess we'll see what happens...

1.055 OG.

 

[fragged]

Made my NEIPA v2 last night - too cold out to hook up the hose to the outside faucet, so we let the beers cool outside. I guess I lost my patience and pitched my Conan DIPA yeast in the mid 80's, probably moved it down to my 65 degree basement when the wort was still in the high 70s. I guess we'll see what happens...

1.055 OG.

I run a 396 GPH aquarium pump out of a 18 gallon tote filled with snow, ice (I leave the water in there between brews) and water. Tote was 6 bucks or so and the pump was ~$20.


I rigged a hose to go from that pump outlet to the garden hose adapter on my IC. Cools as effectively if not more than a garden hose. I just run the water back into the tub and add more snow as needed, least amount of water needed this way and I have plenty of snow to run through...

 

[SailorJerry]

I run a 396 GPH aquarium pump out of a 18 gallon tote filled with snow, ice (I leave the water in there between brews) and water. Tote was 6 bucks or so and the pump was ~$20.


I rigged a hose to go from that pump outlet to the garden hose adapter on my IC. Cools as effectively if not more than a garden hose. I just run the water back into the tub and add more snow as needed, least amount of water needed this way and I have plenty of snow to run through...

I thought about doing something similar (and need to buy a pump), but we don't have any snow on the ground right now anyways. However, a tote full of cold water would still have been beneficial.

And, it can snow any darn time, sooner than later....makes tracking deer easier.

 

[fragged]

I thought about doing something similar (and need to buy a pump), but we don't have any snow on the ground right now anyways. However, a tote full of cold water would still have been beneficial.

And, it can snow any darn time, sooner than later....makes tracking deer easier.

Fill it 1/4 full and leave it outside. Should freeze in a couple days. Add water the morning of brew day assuming it's still cold. By the time you are ready to chill, you should be able to add the pump.

If it were me with no snow, I'd have another few gallons frozen in jugs or a bucket too in case I need it. I use the grey "brute" short totes, extremely sturdy.

This is the pump I use, comes with fittings. EcoPlus Fixed Flow Submersible/Inline Water Pump - 396 GPH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018X2XT4/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[Sbe2]

Fill it 1/4 full and leave it outside. Should freeze in a couple days. Add water the morning of brew day assuming it's still cold. By the time you are ready to chill, you should be able to add the pump.

If it were me with no snow, I'd have another few gallons frozen in jugs or a bucket too in case I need it. I use the grey "brute" short totes, extremely sturdy.

This is the pump I use, comes with fittings. EcoPlus Fixed Flow Submersible/Inline Water Pump - 396 GPH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018X2XT4/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

And here I thought I was the only one doing this...

 

[Chrispy92]

I think tomorrow is fine. You also don't want to dry hop and have a highly active fermentation pump all the hops right back out. So, I think day 3 would be good.

Good thought, I might wait for the blowout to calm a bit and if it has by tonight I'll drop hops and if it's still going crazy I'll wait another day.

Without a keg I intend to purge co2 into the fermenter for the second dry hop and purge each bottle when I bottle them. I've read lots of failed attempts at bottling NEIPAs so I'll keep my progress up to date with how my process works. Once carved they will all go into a fridge as well.

Anyone else tried this method when bottling ??

 

[tld6008]

Good thought, I might wait for the blowout to calm a bit and if it has by tonight I'll drop hops and if it's still going crazy I'll wait another day.

Without a keg I intend to purge co2 into the fermenter for the second dry hop and purge each bottle when I bottle them. I've read lots of failed attempts at bottling NEIPAs so I'll keep my progress up to date with how my process works. Once carved they will all go into a fridge as well.

Anyone else tried this method when bottling ??

I haven't tried your method but I did start kegging after bottling NEIPA. It was soo good for a week then it changed dramatically, it was still very good but I had to have the fresh taste. The keg tasted great the entire 5 gallons.

 

[ryanm8]

Good thought, I might wait for the blowout to calm a bit and if it has by tonight I'll drop hops and if it's still going crazy I'll wait another day.

Without a keg I intend to purge co2 into the fermenter for the second dry hop and purge each bottle when I bottle them. I've read lots of failed attempts at bottling NEIPAs so I'll keep my progress up to date with how my process works. Once carved they will all go into a fridge as well.

Anyone else tried this method when bottling ??

I've been bottling like that and my NEIPAs are holding up fine. I tried a batch without purging the oxygen and they turned brown after a week or two. With purging, I've gone 3 weeks with little or no change (I usually drink it all by then).

 

[Chrispy92]

I've been bottling like that and my NEIPAs are holding up fine. I tried a batch without purging the oxygen and they turned brown after a week or two. With purging, I've gone 3 weeks with little or no change (I usually drink it all by then).

Awesome that's what I want to hear!

What's your method for purging bottles? Purge before filling, fill and cap?
Purge headspace once filled then cap?
Purge bottle fill then headspace again?

Curious as I bet mine will be gone in 3 weeks as well and want them to hold up till at least that point !

Cheers

 

[ryanm8]

Awesome that's what I want to hear!

What's your method for purging bottles? Purge before filling, fill and cap?
Purge headspace once filled then cap?
Purge bottle fill then headspace again?

Curious as I bet mine will be gone in 3 weeks as well and want them to hold up till at least that point !

Cheers

I purge any time I open the fermenter. When bottling, I purge the bottles, fill with wand, then purge the top and cap it. I noticed the local brewery doing that with crowlers and they seem to hold up well.

 

[SailorJerry]

I thought about doing something similar (and need to buy a pump), but we don't have any snow on the ground right now anyways. However, a tote full of cold water would still have been beneficial.

And, it can snow any darn time, sooner than later....makes tracking deer easier.

Still wasn't fermenting as of this morning. Basement is 59 degrees.

 

[fragged]

Just dry hopped, day 3. I have a java stout in the fermenter using s-04 that is just about done. I'd like to ramp it up to 68 to see if I can coax another point or two from that before kegging. Anyone see an issue with the NEIPA using 1318 going to 68 at this point in fermentation? Krausen dropped this morning and airlock reinstalled.

As the early phase is done, I think it's fine if not preferred, just wondering what others have noticed.

 

[anteater8]

Brewed this for the 13th time yesterday, this time with Mosaic/Equinox and Imperial Juice.

 

[ryanm8]

Just dry hopped, day 3. I have a java stout in the fermenter using s-04 that is just about done. I'd like to ramp it up to 68 to see if I can coax another point or two from that before kegging. Anyone see an issue with the NEIPA using 1318 going to 68 at this point in fermentation? Krausen dropped this morning and airlock reinstalled.

As the early phase is done, I think it's fine if not preferred, just wondering what others have noticed.

I ferment at 67 and then ramp it up to 70 after the first dry hop and then let it free rise to the usual ambient temp a few days after that (72-74).

Comes out fine.

 

[fragged]

I ferment at 67 and then ramp it up to 70 after the first dry hop and then let it free rise to the usual ambient temp a few days after that (72-74).

Comes out fine.

Thanks. Spent some more time reading through the thread and went for it. Seems to be the consensus that day 3 is about when everyone's ramps up.

They're both up a few degrees and the stout seems to have picked up a little activity, though that's just by appearance at the top and the airlock. Hopefully I lose a couple more points on that, I'd prefer a 5.5+ abv over the 5 it is now.

 

[stickyfinger]

I have a starter all ready and I'll be brewing with it today. I'll be sure to report back with my thoughts on the final product.

what's the verdict?

 

[TimmyWit]

what's the verdict?

To be honest, when they're this young, I have a hard time detecting much difference from one yeast to the next. It's a juice bomb for sure but it's just so over the top that any contributions from the yeast are too subtle for my palate. I actually didn't use anything flaked on this batch and 4 weeks from brew day, the haze is very persistent. It did have 12% wheat and a bit of munich. Like always, I split this batch 3 ways.

From left to right in the picture - farmhouse, S04, OYL-057. They appear nearly identical and the flavor, aroma and mouthfeel are very similar in all of them as well. Although I do still detect more tropical aroma from the OYL-057. As you know I'm a big fan of that one.

I know what the yeast burn is now too! I thought I knew what it was before but I was mistaken. I mentioned a while back that I won one of those local homebrew contests so I got to brew a batch of this at the brewery. I went in last Thursday for a sample and that burn was unmistakable. Just a straight burning sensation in the back of the throat. Apparently it was even worse a week ago and they even dosed it with something called Kieselsol which helped a bit but it's still there. As you can see in the pic below, the haze is plenty stable on that one. It has been 4 weeks since brew day. They are aiming to serve it in two weeks so hopefully that burn will be gone by then. For those who have experienced the burn, any thoughts on how long it usually takes to go away?

 

[pearljam1984]

So just tapped the WLP007 batch.

OG 1.056
FG 1.009
5.5 Gallons

8lbs 2-Row
4lbs White Wheat
Mashed at 152

(Only did a 30min boil)
30min- .25oz Mosaic
30min- .25oz Citra
Flameout- 1.75oz Mosaic (30min)
Flameout- 1.75oz Citra (30min)
Dry Hop 1- 2oz Mosaic (18 Days) added about 48hrs into fermentation
Dry Hop 2- 2oz Citra (13 Days)
No Keg Hops(moving away from this)

Yeast- WLP007 (no starter). Fermented at 63-65. Moved to low 70s at about 1 week. Sample tested on day 3 at 1.010. It was a quick worker.

Left in primary for 20 days. Moved to keg under Co2 and left in room temperature for 7 days. Brought to kegerator and Co2 for 24 hrs and served.

Not as hazy as 1318 or S04. Flavor is a bit juicier imo.. this is the most wheat I have ever used. The mouthfeel is silky. This is close to 30days from brew day.

 

[phyllobeddo]

That looks absolutely great!
I like everything about it.....grain bill, hop bill, 30 min boil, # of days in primary, all of it! I've considered trying WLP007, but haven't done it yet.

 

[jivy26]

View attachment 550074 View attachment 550075 So just tapped the WLP007 batch.

OG 1.056
FG 1.009
5.5 Gallons

8lbs 2-Row
4lbs White Wheat
Mashed at 152

(Only did a 30min boil)
30min- .25oz Mosaic
30min- .25oz Citra
Flameout- 1.75oz Mosaic (30min)
Flameout- 1.75oz Citra (30min)
Dry Hop 1- 2oz Mosaic (18 Days) added about 48hrs into fermentation
Dry Hop 2- 2oz Citra (13 Days)
No Keg Hops(moving away from this)

Yeast- WLP007 (no starter). Fermented at 63-65. Moved to low 70s at about 1 week. Sample tested on day 3 at 1.010. It was a quick worker.

Left in primary for 20 days. Moved to keg under Co2 and left in room temperature for 7 days. Brought to kegerator and Co2 for 24 hrs and served.

Not as hazy as 1318 or S04. Flavor is a bit juicier imo.. this is the most wheat I have ever used. The mouthfeel is silky. This is close to 30days from brew day.

Why no keg hops can I ask?