New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Braufessor]

Hey all, I was wanting to get your opinion on an idea I have. I have made this beer with variations 20+ times. I've done the second dry hop in primary, in an DH keg then transferred to serving keg, and DH in serving keg that was left at room temp for a few days then chilled, carbed, served with hops in keg till it kicked. Honestly I couldnt tell a huge difference between them except the DH in the serving keg seems to make the aroma/flavor last longer. Any who, I do 3.5 gallon batches, and this last time a fermented in keg and rigged up a DIY floating dip tube, cold crashed keg for 24 hours and transferred to new serving keg. This got me thinking that since we ferment and drink these so fast what do you all think about fermenting and DH in a keg and serving the beer straight from there with a floating dip tube? I mean we are talking total time in keg is less than a month. Any one have one of those clear beer draught systems and tried something like this? Ideas? Thoughts?

Two thoughts....
1.) I don't see why that should not work just fine.
2.) you don't know if you don't try

 

[mintyice]

Hey all, I was wanting to get your opinion on an idea I have. I have made this beer with variations 20+ times. I've done the second dry hop in primary, in an DH keg then transferred to serving keg, and DH in serving keg that was left at room temp for a few days then chilled, carbed, served with hops in keg till it kicked. Honestly I couldnt tell a huge difference between them except the DH in the serving keg seems to make the aroma/flavor last longer. Any who, I do 3.5 gallon batches, and this last time a fermented in keg and rigged up a DIY floating dip tube, cold crashed keg for 24 hours and transferred to new serving keg. This got me thinking that since we ferment and drink these so fast what do you all think about fermenting and DH in a keg and serving the beer straight from there with a floating dip tube? I mean we are talking total time in keg is less than a month. Any one have one of those clear beer draught systems and tried something like this? Ideas? Thoughts?

As soon as I buy a spunding valve I'll probably try something similar but I'll probably ferment in a carboy for a few days for the bulk of active fermentation, transfer to keg, dry hop, spund, and try to carbonate while it's still fermenting.

 

[leesmith]

As soon as I buy a spunding valve I'll probably try something similar but I'll probably ferment in a carboy for a few days for the bulk of active fermentation, transfer to keg, dry hop, spund, and try to carbonate while it's still fermenting.

That's almost what I do. Seems to work fine. I just don't get full carbonation but it's got a head start before I chill it.

 

[jakturner]

Two thoughts....
1.) I don't see why that should not work just fine.
2.) you don't know if you don't try

Very true, Ill give it a shot and report back. I've done the CMG enough times I should be able to tell if it turns out different, or maybe citra:equinox(my personal favorite). I'm going to order a clear beer draught system to try out, I made my own floating dip tube but I'm not 100% pleased with it.

Just tapped a citra:nelson:galaxy version today, curious to see how it turns out, the nelson didn't smell as good as last year straight out the bag, not bad, just didn't have that catty white grape pop that it usually does.

 

[dyqik]

Right, time for my first go at this tomorrow. I have a new Fermonster, set up for sealed carbon dioxide "pushed" (I'll use my cask breather and the spigot on the fermonster) transfer, a corny lid set up to hang a dry hop bag from, and a fresh starter of Conan.

Aiming at 140:140 PPM Cl:SO4

Recipe is:
12lb Pearl Malt
1 lb Rolled Oats
4oz Honey Malt

2.5ml Hopshot for 60 mins
1oz Amarillo
1oz El Dorado
1oz Simcoe for 20 min whirlpool

1oz of each at 3-4 days
1oz of Amarillo and El Dorado, 0.5oz Simcoe after fermentation is done.

 

[Kosova]

I'm brewing my second one soon and I'm thinking about using Citra - El Dorado - Equinox. Has anyone experienced with these hops? Would they go together well and what ratio would you use?

 

[marjen]

I'm brewing my second one soon and I'm thinking about using Citra - El Dorado - Equinox. Has anyone experienced with these hops? Would they go together well and what ratio would you use?

I have used them all. Out of those I prefer Ekuanot the best. They will all work well together. El Dorado has more of a melon taste to me, not very citrusy so depends what you are going for. One of my best NE IPAs was one that was Mostly ekuanot with citra and mosaic behind it. Honestly whatever the combo it will make a tasty beer.

 

[marjen]

So how are people getting an orangish color to their NE IPAs? Crystal malt 40-60? Or is it a base malt other than 2-row? Mine have mostly been coming out on the yellow side. I typically use 2-row, white wheat, light munich and a little honey malt.

 

[Jmash]

I've been splitting my base malt between US 2 row and irish ale malt. Color is beautiful

 

[paarman]

So I don't know how many of you still bottle this style (I don't have a keg setup as of now, so I am bottler), but how much priming sugar are you using?

My last batch I used my standard 5oz/5 gallon batch, but I bottled it after a week as it dropped down and didn't go any further than 1.018. After 2-3 weeks my beer was overcarbed (it was like it had been bottled for 2-3 months). I'm thinking the priming sugar may have brought it down those last few points possibly, or that 5oz of priming sugar is too much for this style.

Just looking for what's worked best for those of you that still bottle this style. I just brewed a batch last Saturday, so I don't plan on brewing for 12 or so days yet. Thanks in advance.

 

[Jmash]

Beersmith will tell you how much sugar to use. I don't bottle carb anymore but I know it was closer to 4 oz per 5 gallon

 

[Braufessor]

So I don't know how many of you still bottle this style (I don't have a keg setup as of now, so I am bottler), but how much priming sugar are you using?

My last batch I used my standard 5oz/5 gallon batch, but I bottled it after a week as it dropped down and didn't go any further than 1.018. After 2-3 weeks my beer was overcarbed (it was like it had been bottled for 2-3 months). I'm thinking the priming sugar may have brought it down those last few points possibly, or that 5oz of priming sugar is too much for this style.

Just looking for what's worked best for those of you that still bottle this style. I just brewed a batch last Saturday, so I don't plan on brewing for 12 or so days yet. Thanks in advance.

Could have been some of both. I think 5 ounces is on the high side. I think they often sell priming sugar in those 5 ounce bags...... I have always used somewhere between 2/3 and 3/4 of a cup...... I know that is not very precise, but I remember that being less than the 5 ounces in the bag. Closer to 2/3 of a cup gave the lower carbonation levels that I prefer.

 

[Braufessor]

So how are people getting an orangish color to their NE IPAs? Crystal malt 40-60? Or is it a base malt other than 2-row? Mine have mostly been coming out on the yellow side. I typically use 2-row, white wheat, light munich and a little honey malt.

I have used something around 1/4 cara 30-35...... (that was in addition to the honey malt). I have a picture of one like that on page one of the thread. Probably a few ways to get there, but probably shooting for 6-7 SRM or so would be close.

 

[paarman]

Beersmith will tell you how much sugar to use. I don't bottle carb anymore but I know it was closer to 4 oz per 5 gallon

Could have been some of both. I think 5 ounces is on the high side. I think they often sell priming sugar in those 5 ounce bags...... I have always used somewhere between 2/3 and 3/4 of a cup...... I know that is not very precise, but I remember that being less than the 5 ounces in the bag. Closer to 2/3 of a cup gave the lower carbonation levels that I prefer.

Thanks to both. Forgot BS has that somewhere.. Need to break my old standard habits ha.

 

[Jmash]

Thanks to both. Forgot BS has that somewhere.. Need to break my old standard habits ha.

No problem. Plug in the recipe and go to brew steps. Scroll down to the last three steps. Good luck

 

[paarman]

No problem. Plug in the recipe and go to brew steps. Scroll down to the last three steps. Good luck

That's right. I usually don't use any other tabs than Recipe and Notes.. I often forget it has stuff like that in there... I'll check it out and go from there.. Hopefully the full two weeks and less priming sugar fixes what went wrong last time...Thanks again!

Funny side note.. Just for ****s I cracked open a bottle of my batch 1 and just let it sit overnight inside my fridge, and poured it the next morning when brewing up this new batch.. Tasted better nearly flat that it does fresh out the bottle haha.. I'm now debating just recapping the 12 or so bottles I have left from that batch. It's crazy how overpowering the c02 is on these beers. It almost tasted like a totally different beer.

 

[Jmash]

Maybe pour them into growlers and cap them. That should flatten them out a bit but not fully

 

[HOPME]

Brewed one up using 1056 just to see. Kegged for 2 weeks waiting for a friends party. Not bad at all.

 

[dyqik]

Right, time for my first go at this tomorrow. I have a new Fermonster, set up for sealed carbon dioxide "pushed" (I'll use my cask breather and the spigot on the fermonster) transfer, a corny lid set up to hang a dry hop bag from, and a fresh starter of Conan.

Aiming at 140:140 PPM Cl:SO4

Well, it's boiling. First problem was that I was out of gypsum. So I used Burton Water salts that I've had lying around since my second ever batch. From the Morebeer listing of what Burton Water Salts add to the water, it looks like they are 5:5:1 Gypsum:Epsom Salts:Chalk, so I adapted by Bru'n'water file to use that mix plus calcium chloride. Hit my mash pH dead on.

 

[Braufessor]

That's right. I usually don't use any other tabs than Recipe and Notes.. I often forget it has stuff like that in there... I'll check it out and go from there.. Hopefully the full two weeks and less priming sugar fixes what went wrong last time...Thanks again!

Funny side note.. Just for ****s I cracked open a bottle of my batch 1 and just let it sit overnight inside my fridge, and poured it the next morning when brewing up this new batch.. Tasted better nearly flat that it does fresh out the bottle haha.. I'm now debating just recapping the 12 or so bottles I have left from that batch. It's crazy how overpowering the c02 is on these beers. It almost tasted like a totally different beer.

Maybe trying doing a rough/high pour into a pitcher when you want to drink one.... that should knock a ton of CO2 out of solution, and then pour it from the pitcher into your glass. That might knock it down enough to mellow it out.

 

[mintyice]

So how are people getting an orangish color to their NE IPAs? Crystal malt 40-60? Or is it a base malt other than 2-row? Mine have mostly been coming out on the yellow side. I typically use 2-row, white wheat, light munich and a little honey malt.

You need a pale ale malt for that color. I actually prefer super pale and hazy ones using pils malt

 

[hooterjbrew]

This thread has been great help for my first all grain recipe and my first shot at a NEIPA. My numbers weren't perfect but I still come out with an unbelievable juice bomb and ridiculously smooth 6.4% beer. Couldn't be happier with this until its all gone. The head retention and lacing is great although the pic you can't tell to much of that. I had already had a few drinks from it and it was the first pull from the keg (besides the first pull to get the gunk from bottom of the keg).

 

[WoodsonNoles]

Have had a perfect brew day so far and I'm about to put in fermentor and pitch yeast (doing braufessor NE IPA and I just looked at the yeast NB sent me and they screwed up and sent me 1388 and not 1318.

Should I pitch this or put wort to fermentor and cap and have it chill in the freezer until 1318 comes or what?

 

[stickyfinger]

Have had a perfect brew day so far and I'm about to put in fermentor and pitch yeast (doing braufessor NE IPA and I just looked at the yeast NB sent me and they screwed up and sent me 1388 and not 1318.

Should I pitch this or put wort to fermentor and cap and have it chill in the freezer until 1318 comes or what?

wow! i would NOT recommend 1388 for this style. can you get any reasonable yeast from a local place or a brewing friend or something, even a local brewery. 1388 will produce too much yeast character i think, even if you keep the temp low. on the other hand, i wouldn't wait more than 12 or maybe 24 hrs to pitch yeast either.

 

[Braufessor]

Have had a perfect brew day so far and I'm about to put in fermentor and pitch yeast (doing braufessor NE IPA and I just looked at the yeast NB sent me and they screwed up and sent me 1388 and not 1318.

Should I pitch this or put wort to fermentor and cap and have it chill in the freezer until 1318 comes or what?

i agree on trying for another option if at all possible. dry yeast? other local brewers might have something?

 

[schematix]

I wouldn't wait more than a day to get the 1318. Fermenting 1388 cold could be ok, but definitely not hot. Not ideal. I'd be screaming f'in mad at NB for a full refund.

 

[stickyfinger]

I wouldn't wait more than a day to get the 1318. Fermenting 1388 cold could be ok, but definitely not hot. Not ideal. I'd be screaming f'in mad at NB for a full refund.

let this be a lesson to check your yeast when you receive a shipment.

 

[Shenanigans]

That sucks. I'm a non-chill brewer and leave my wort overnight before pitching yeast so if you arrange something else within a day you should be OK. No chance to get a dry pack of US-05 or even S-04?
Maybe the 1388 will turn out good. Duvel Triple hop is a dam fine beer
Like the others say if you decide to go with it keep in on the cool side for sure but not too cold or else it might stall. Somewhere around 65 could be the sweet spot.

 

[stickyfinger]

I was just reading an article about john kimmich while drinking a Focal Banger I got in Vermont last weekend. It said he was obsessed with dissolved O2 and having yeast in suspension to absorb oxygen. I wonder if it makes more sense to try to rack the beer while warm and leave it in the keg for 12 hrs or so with the yeast once you rack it to get rid of the oxygen from racking and then chill and carbonate? his beers have SERIOUS hop flavor that lasts a long time in the can. Amazing.

 

[schematix]

I was just reading an article about john kimmich while drinking a Focal Banger I got in Vermont last weekend. It said he was obsessed with dissolved O2 and having yeast in suspension to absorb oxygen. I wonder if it makes more sense to try to rack the beer while warm and leave it in the keg for 12 hrs or so with the yeast once you rack it to get rid of the oxygen from racking and then chill and carbonate? his beers have SERIOUS hop flavor that lasts a long time in the can. Amazing.

The method espoused on lowoxygenbrewing.com and similar is to rack the beer into a water purged keg through the liquid dip tube with about 4-6 gravity points remaining and spund the keg. This can be as simple as just sealed it up and letting it ride for another few weeks.

This style normally calls for a massive dry hop or two, which complicates this.

So dry hop at 1.020 for a couple days to scrub the oxygen introduced by the hops, then add priming solution to the fermenter, wait for fermentation to restart (~1 h), then rack to a keg as described above.